Jaisalmer Travel Guide: Visiting the Jewel of India's Thar Desert

Today I'm picking favourites and I have no qualms about it. We spent a whole month travelling across India - 7 destinations in total - but the one that I'm still thinking about is Jaisalmer. This Jaisalmer travel guide will show you what makes this place so special!
Located in the Thar Desert just 30 kilometres from the border with Pakistan means that getting to Jaisalmer was quite the journey - 18 hours by train from Delhi to be precise! - but it was worth it in the end to explore the famed Golden City.
We had a total of 3 days here and I would have gladly stayed a week if the rest of Rajasthan hadn't been calling, so here's a little glimpse at why I enjoyed visiting Jaisalmer so much and how you can too.
Ultimate Jaisalmer Trip: Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

Get lost inside Jaisalmer Fort
The main attraction in this city is Jaisalmer Fort, but believe me when I tell you that this is a place you're going to want to revisit time and time again.
I made it to Jaisalmer Fort three days in a row and I managed to see something new on each visit. The layout of the city makes the place feel like a bit of a maze, which means you can always get lost in a new direction.
Narrow, twisting alleys break away from the main road, leading you up and down crooked staircases, and then every once in a while these will spit you out along the fort's outer walls where you can see across the city and off into the desert.
There is also no shortage of rooftop restaurants, so be willing to climb the extra three or four flights of stairs to enjoy a drink with a view, and then give your legs a break!

Shop for Rajasthani souvenirs
Oh, the shopping! There is a reason why my suitcase gained a few extra pounds in Jaisalmer. Certain sections of the fort are like a bazaar where you can find all sorts of little treasures. So what exactly did we find?
Well, Sam and I purchased a total of four wall hangings; my favourite was a white canvas with quotidian scenes embroidered in rainbow colours. We also picked up a few pillow covers with elephant designs in gold, pink, and blue. And aside from that, I came across an artist who paints bird and flower motifs on old weathered postcards with Hindi writing, so I picked up a small collection which I'd like to frame at some point.
I was also tempted by peacock doorknobs, carved statuettes and antique masks, but I had to draw the line somewhere! Suffice it to say that if you enjoy shopping, you'll love Jaisalmer's offerings.

Visit the Jain Temples
While wandering through Jaisalmer Fort, we also came across the Jain Temples. These structures date back to the 12th and 15th centuries and like most of the buildings you'll find in the city, these too are made of yellow sandstone.
You may be tempted to walk past them especially if there's a large tour group gathered outside, but trust me, it's worth going in to see the craftsmanship. While the temples are relatively simple from the exterior, once you set foot inside you'll enter a world of intricate stone carvings that carry your eyes from floor to ceiling.
Admission tickets can be purchased in the small square directly across from the temples. Just keep in mind that because these temples are active places of worship, they are only open to visitors from 8 in the morning until noon, so you'll want to plan your visit accordingly.

Admire all the Havelis
Haveli is the word used for old mansions found across India and Jaisalmer has a few worth seeking out!
Patwon ki Haveli: This is the most famed haveli in Jaisalmer. It is also the largest haveli in the city, but that being said, it's a combination of 5 structures. The building was commissioned by Guman Chand Patwa, who was a wealthy jewelry trader, and because he had 5 sons he ordered the construction of 5 stories, one for each of his children.
Nathmalji ki Haveli: This haveli was built as the residence of the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Diwan Mohata Nathmal. The construction was carried out by two brothers who had a bit of a competitive edge. They both started building simultaneously at opposite ends and struggled with uniformity, which meant the building ended up having a bit of an irregular shape.
Salim Singh ki Haveli: This next one is nicknamed the Peacock Haveli. This 300-year-old structure was built on top of an even older haveli, and it is still occupied today by a descendant of its original owner.
Speaking of havelis, you can't miss the Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum & Heritage Center, which was a former royal residence. You can do an audio tour, but I was happy to just wander around and take pictures.
And since we're on the topic of architecture, if you come with a bit more time or are feeling particularly ambitious, you can also visit Bada Bagh, which is a complex north of Jaisalmer that contains royal cenotaphs (empty tombs) that look like dome-shaped pavilions. I didn't get to visit this place but it looks beautiful in photos.

Go camel trekking in the Thar Desert
This Jaisalmer travel guide wouldn't be complete without mentioning camel trekking, after all, the city is located in the Thar Desert! There are two popular offerings that you can find across the town. The first is a sunset tour that involves driving out to the desert, doing a camel safari, having a fire-cooked dinner, and doing a bit of stargazing. The second option includes all of the above but also involves spending the night in the desert, typically sleeping outdoors around a campfire using mats and a sleeping bag.
Longer tours can be arranged - my husband Sam did a 4-day camel safari when he visited a few years back - but if you're not into camping, then the sunset tour can give you a taste of what that's like.
Another alternative to the camel safari is spending the night in a desert camp. These range from simple tented camps geared at backpackers to luxury tented camps that will make you feel like you're glamping with the royals.

Take a boat ride on Gadisar Lake
Gadisar Lake is a manmade lake that was built in the 14th century in order to deal with the population's water needs - because when  you live in the desert, water is a major concern!
Today the lake is a popular spot with visitors as you can rent paddle boats to take you out on the water. The lake's shore is lined with temples and pavilions (some of them are even out on the water), so it's quite scenic, especially at sunset.

Stay in a haveli-inspired hotel
If you want to feel like royalty, you need to book yourself into a haveli. We stayed at the Tokyo Palace Hotel and loved it!
I know the name is a bit of a geographic mismatch, but that aside, it's a really cool property. The hotel was built in the haveli-style, which means you get a bit of Old World charm with all the modern conveniences.
We stayed in the Deluxe Room which runs you about $22 USD per night, and my favourite feature was the day bed, because check out that window! They also have 6-bed dorms starting out at $2 so there really is something for every budget.

Another thing that I loved about this hotel is that their rooftop allowed us to catch the sun rising over the desert and it was pure magic every morning. The sun rose with a bold and fiery intensity painting the sky deep shades of mauve and lavender, and most mornings a small group of guests would gather together to watch it quietly.
If that hotel is fully booked, you can find similar style accommodations at: Hotel Garh Jaisal Haveli, Hotel Helsinki House, or Hotel Pleasant Haveli. These are some of the top-rated haveli-style hotels in Jaisalmer.

And that's a little taste of Jaisalmer. I hope these photos sparked your interest in the city; it's a long way to get there, but to me, Jaisalmer is the jewel of the Thar Desert, so go!
Are you visiting Jaisalmer?PIN THIS JAISALMER TRAVEL GUIDE FOR LATER!

Planning Your Jaisalmer Adventure: Practical Tips, Itineraries, Costs & Advice

When to Go & How Long to Stay

Best season:

October–March: Dry, sunny, and (relatively) cool. Expect crisp mornings and warm afternoons—ideal for fort wanders and desert sunsets.

April–June: Sizzling. Sightseeing is possible early/late, but the heat is no joke.

July–September: Monsoon brings humidity and occasional showers; the desert scrubs turn greener.

How many days?

Quick trip: 2 full days (fort + havelis + lake + sunset dunes).

Sweet spot: 3–4 days so you can mix slow fort mornings with a Gadisar boat ride, an ethical camel or jeep desert experience, and a day trip to cenotaphs or a ghost village.

Leisurely: 5+ days if you want long coffees on rooftops, a night in the dunes, and more time to wander the fort’s tiny ateliers.

Getting to Jaisalmer: Transportation Guide

Jaisalmer sits deep in the Thar, so getting there is part of the adventure.

Common routes & vibes

RouteTypical TimeVibeWhy Choose ItHeads-UpOvernight train from Delhi16–18 hrsClassic Indian rail journeySleep your way to the desert; social & scenicBook AC2/AC3 early in high seasonTrain from Jodhpur5–6 hrsEasy hopGreat add-on if you’re doing a Rajasthan loopDay trains = fort arrival by afternoonFlight to Jaisalmer (seasonal)1.5–2 hrs (from major hubs)Time-saverSkip long hauls if short on timeLimited schedules; price can spikeBus/Car from Jodhpur/Jaipur5–10 hrsRoad tripFlex stops (Bikaner, Pokaran)Bring water; daytime heat & occasional bumps

Ticket tips

Trains: Aim for AC3 (budget-friendly, comfortable) or AC2 (more privacy). Keep a soft scarf or light blanket—the AC can be enthusiastic at 3 a.m.

Buses: Book reputable operators; night buses exist but day runs are gentler on nerves.

Cars: A private car/driver between desert towns gives you spontaneous chai stops and photo breaks.

Sleep Inside the Fort or Outside? (The Great Jaisalmer Debate)

Stay AreaProsConsBest ForInside Jaisalmer FortStorybook lanes, step-out sightseeing, dreamy rooftopsSpace is tight, stairs everywhere, limited vehicle access, water/sanitation load on a living fortHistory nerds, photographers, anyone chasing that “I live in a haveli” feelingOutside the Fort (fort-view lanes)Easier access, wider room choices, great fort viewsYou’ll walk/ride in dailyValue seekers who still want viewsDesert Camps (outside city)Starry skies, firelit dinners, dunes at dawnTransfer time, sand everywhere (the good kind)A one-night spoil or glamping experience

Choosing Your Desert Experience (Camel? Jeep? Camp Under the Milky Way?)

ExperienceWhat It IsTimeComfort LevelWho Loves ItSunset Camel RideShort camel trek to dunes + chai + sunset3–4 hrsModerate (camel saddles are…memorable)First-timers, romantics, photographersOvernight Desert BivvyCamel or jeep to remote dunes + simple dinner + sleep under stars18–20 hrsRustic (mats/sleeping bag)Stargazers, minimalistsLuxury Desert CampTransfer by jeep + tent with real beds + dinner & folk music1 nightHighGlampers, special occasionsJeep Dune DriveJeep to farther dunes for sunset/stargazing; no camel3–4 hrsComfortableFamilies, anyone with back/hip concerns

Ethical Camel Trekking (So You Can Feel Good About That Sunset)

Ask about camel care: Water/rest schedule, shade, and load limits. A healthy camel is alert, well-fed, with no obvious sores at the saddle points.

Choose small groups: Less stress on animals and the dunes.

Pack out everything: Don’t leave bottles or snack wrappers behind; the desert remembers.

Desert Camp Types at a Glance

TierSleepsBathroomDiningExtrasBackpackerCots/matsShared (basic)Thali around campfireBig skies, bigger storiesMid-Range TentedProper bedEn-suite or semi-privateBuffet + folk musicPower banks/limited chargingLuxury GlampingKing bed, linensEn-suite with hot waterMulti-course dinnerGenerators, curated experiences

Three Easy Mini-Itineraries

24 Hours: Golden City Express

AM: Fort wander—Jain Temples (before noon), Palace Museum, a haveli or two.

Lunch: Rooftop thali with a fort wall breeze.

PM: Gadisar Lake paddle + sunset viewpoint.

Evening: Acoustic folk music over masala chai.

48 Hours: Fort + Dunes (My Favorite Combo)

Day 1: Fort, havelis (Patwon ki, Nathmalji ki), bazaar shopping.

Day 2 AM: Lazy breakfast + fort lanes you missed.

Day 2 PM: Sunset desert (camel or jeep), fire-cooked dinner, stargazing.

3–4 Days: Deep Dive Desert Dreaming

Day 1: Fort + Jain Temples + Palace Museum & Heritage Center.

Day 2: Havelis + Bada Bagh (golden hour is magic) + lakeside stroll.

Day 3: Full overnight in dunes (bivvy or luxury camp).

Day 4: Late breakfast back in town + slow souvenir hunt + rooftop sunset.

Eat Your Way Through Jaisalmer (Rajasthani & Desert Specials)

Order with curiosity and an elastic waistband:

Ker Sangri: A tangy, earthy desert bean & berry stir-fry—uniquely Marwar.

Dal Baati Churma: Crunchy wheat baati with dal and sweet churma—comfort on a plate.

Gatte ki Sabzi: Chickpea flour dumplings in a spiced yogurt gravy.

Laal Maas/Safed Maas: Fiery red chili mutton vs. creamy white version (regional staples).

Pyaaz Kachori & Mirchi Vada: Street-snack royalty.

Kulhad Chai & Lassi: Clay-cup tea and thick, cooling yogurt drinks.

Ghevar, Rabri, Malpua: For those afternoon sugar cravings.

Bhang Lassi: Legal only from government-authorized shops; know your limits and your plans—never before a camel/jeep ride.

Rooftop ritual: A slow sunset curry while the fort blushes gold → pink → lavender. It never gets old.

Shopping Without the Baggage

The bazaars inside and around the fort are treasure-packed.

What to Look For

Embroidered wall hangings & pillow covers: Mirror work, patchwork, vintage textiles.

Miniature paintings: Birds, flora, desert life on old papers/postcards.

Brass knobs & hardware: Peacock motifs, elephant handles, door knockers.

Leather journals & Mojari shoes: Soft, handmade, and very giftable.

Carved stone statuettes: Choose small pieces for safer transport.

Bargaining Etiquette

Smile, admire the craft, and ask for the “best price.”

Counter at ~60–70% of the first quote; meet happily in the middle.

Cash often yields better deals; small bills are golden.

If you’re not feeling it, a gentle “maybe later” works wonders.

Pack & Ship

Ask for bubble wrap + an inner cloth wrap.

Keep fragile items in your carry-on.

Larger items? Shops can arrange reputable shipping—document everything and take a snap of the package/receipt.

Photo Spots & Best Light (Where the Golden City Glows)

Fort Ramparts: Early morning for long shadows and empty lanes.

Jain Temples: Intricate carvings under soft, pre-noon light.

Gadisar Lake: Mirror-calm reflections at sunrise and peachy sunsets.

Vyas Chhatri (Cenotaphs): Silhouetted domes at golden hour—bring a wide lens.

Bada Bagh: The cenotaphs hum at sunset; arrive 60–90 minutes early.

Rooftop Cafés: Telephoto lens for compressing layers of jharokhas and terraces.

Culture & Respect (The Fort is a Neighborhood, Too)

Temples: Shoulders/knees covered; remove shoes; move quietly; ask before photographing people.

Havelis & Homes: Doorways and window frames are beloved—photograph from a respectful distance.

Cows, Camels, Dogs: Give space; they have right of way (always).

Language: Namaste (hello), Dhanyavaad (thank you), Kitne ka? (how much?).

Practicalities You’ll Be Glad You Knew

Money: ATMs exist but can be fickle—carry a mix of cash and card. Small notes help for autos and snacks.

SIM & Signal: Pick up an Indian SIM earlier in your route (big cities are easiest). Signal is decent in town, spotty in the dunes.

Power: Standard Indian sockets; bring a universal adaptor and a small power strip if you travel gadget-heavy.

Heat & Hydration: Electrolyte packets are heroes. Cover up midday; chase shade.

Water & Waste: Refill a reusable bottle where possible; say no to extra plastic bags and straws.

Scams to skip: “Mandatory desert fee,” aggressive shop commission escorts, or rushed “package deals” you didn’t want. A polite “no, thank you” + keep walking works.

Footing: Cobbles + steps; good tread shoes make wandering happier.

Day Trips You’ll Love

Bada Bagh: Royal cenotaphs in tidy rows—dreamy at sunset.

Kuldhara Ghost Village: Abandoned Paliwal Brahmin settlement; crumbling homes and whispery lanes.

Khaba Fort: Quiet, atmospheric ruins with desert panoramas.

Local Craft Villages: Hand-loom and embroidery collectives—ask at your hotel for reputable cooperatives.

What Will It Cost? (Sample Budgets Per Person/Day)

StyleStayFoodActivitiesTransport (local)Total (approx.)BackpackerDorm/guesthouseSimple thali + chai + snacksFort sights + sunset camelAutos + shared taxis$20–35Mid-RangeHaveli-style roomRooftop meals + café treatsFort + desert sunset/dinnerAutos + a taxi or two$45–80SplurgeBoutique/luxuryMulti-course + special dinnersFort + luxury camp nightPrivate car$120–250+

(Rough guide; season and choices swing numbers.)

Desert-Proof Packing Checklist

Sun & Sand

Wide-brim hat with a strap

Polarized sunglasses + microfiber cloth

High-SPF sunscreen + lip balm

Light scarf/bandana or buff (dust protection)

Clothing

Breathable long sleeves + airy pants/skirts

A warm layer for desert nights (fleece or light puffer)

Comfortable walking shoes with tread + sandals for camp

Modest temple outfit (covered shoulders/knees)

Essentials

Refillable water bottle (insulated if possible)

Electrolyte packets

Small first-aid kit (plasters, antihistamine, pain relief)

Hand sanitizer & tissues

Headlamp/flashlight (evening dunes & fort stairs)

Power bank + universal adaptor

Zip pouches for dust-proofing tech

Nice-to-Haves

Lightweight tote for market hauls

Travel laundry soap & line

Earplugs (fort lanes can be lively)

Journal/postcards for the fort cafés

Jaisalmer Trip FAQ: Your Top Questions Answered

How many days do I really need in Jaisalmer?

Two full days cover the highlights, but three to four days let you enjoy the fort slowly, add a desert experience, and take a day trip to Bada Bagh or Kuldhara without rushing.

Is it better to stay inside the fort or outside?

Inside is magical and walkable; outside offers more space and choice (often with stellar fort views). Either way, be water-wise and respectful—the fort is a living neighborhood.

What’s the best time of year to visit?

October–March is prime: pleasant days, cool nights, and clear sunsets. April–June is very hot, and July–September brings monsoon humidity and occasional showers.

Do I need to book a camel safari in advance?

Not necessarily. In high season, ask your hotel to arrange a reputable, animal-friendly operator a day ahead. If you want a luxury camp, book in advance—those fill up.

What should I wear inside the Jain Temples?

Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered. Remove shoes and hats, move quietly, and ask before taking photos inside.

Is Jaisalmer safe for solo travelers?

Yes, with standard travel sense. Keep valuables close, say a firm “no, thank you” to persistent touts, and arrange desert trips through your hotel or trusted operators.

How much cash should I carry?

ATMs exist but can run dry. Carry enough small bills for autos, tips, and market buys; cards are accepted at many hotels/cafés, but bazaars often prefer cash.

Can I do the desert at sunset without a camel ride?

Absolutely. Choose a jeep transfer to the dunes—great for families, anyone with back/hip issues, or those who prefer not to ride animals.

Where are the best photo spots?

Fort ramparts at dawn, Jain Temples pre-noon, Gadisar Lake sunrise/sunset, Bada Bagh and Vyas Chhatri at golden hour, and any rooftop café with a fort view.

What local dishes should I try?

Ker sangri, dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi, pyaaz kachori, mirchi vada, lassi, ghevar, and rabri. Carnivores: laal maas or safed maas are regional classics.

How do I bargain without feeling awkward?

Smile, ask for the best price, counter politely at around 60–70% of the first offer, and meet in the middle. If it’s not a fit, a kind “maybe later” is fine.

Is a day trip to Bada Bagh worth it?

Yes—especially at sunset. The cenotaphs glow golden, and the silhouettes are photographer catnip. Arrive early for the light and the quiet.


Johannesburg to Cape Town: A 3-week itinerary for South Africa

One country, three weeks, and over 3400 kilometres. Our trip to South Africa was ambitious to say the least!

Over the course of three weeks, Sam and I managed to get ourselves from Johannesburg to Cape Town, and we still found time to do things like go on safari, hike the Drakensberg Mountains, go vineyard hopping in Stellenbosch, and much much more.

I've already written a few individual posts about some of the destinations we visited, and now this post is going to recap our 3 weeks in the country and show you some of the highlights along the way. This trip was all about backpacking South Africa on a budget, so I've included links to the hostels, tour operators, and the bus company I travelled with while I was there. I hope this will help you plan a trip of your own!

Backpacking South Africa Itinerary: An Adventure Of A Lifetime!

Johannesburg (2 Days)

My stay in Johannesburg revolved around the Maboneng Precinct. Maboneng means 'Place of Light' and the name is perfectly fitting because there really is a lot of life and creativity here. The streets are covered in colourful pieces of street art, and a lot of the warehouses in the area have been repurposed into cool coffee shops, galleries, and hostels. I may not have seen much of the city, but at the same time, I don't think I could have picked a better place for my brief stay.

Things to do in Johannesburg

Like I mentioned, even though I had 2 nights in Johannesburg (one when I flew in and another when I returned from safari), it was simply not enough time to explore beyond my neighbourhood. Of course, that doesn't mean you should skip over the city. If you don't know where to begin, you can always take a bus tour with Red Bus or join a Main Street Walks tour to explore Jozi on foot. You can also have a picnic atop the Carlton Centre (South Africa's tallest building), enjoy the shops and cafes on 4th Avenue in Parkhurst, or do the museum and gallery circuit with visits to the Apartheid Museum, MuseuMAfricA, and the Cradle of Human Kind. You also have nearby SoWeTo, which is well known for the Orlando Towers, where you can go bungy-jumping.

Where I stayed in Johannesburg

While in Johannesburg I stayed at CurioCity Backpackers, which happens to hold quite a bit of historical significance. As it turns out, the building that today houses the hostel was once the setting of the Pacific Press, which printed the magazine "The Black Sash" during the apartheid regime. It is rumoured that Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu hid out here on more than one occasion.

The hostel had a fun, urban, welcoming vibe. The bar was a pretty popular spot at night (they had great deals!), but there were also quieter areas to hang out like the balcony or the little patio just behind the bar. Also, CurioCity Backpackers is located on Fox Street which is lined with restaurants, bars, and cool hang-out spots. It's really easy to go out at night to grab dinner and drinks in the area, plus there are security guards posted 24 on every street corner so I felt safe walking back at night. Some cool places to eat in Maboneng include Little Addis Cafe for some great Ethiopian food, and Pata Pata for curries or a unique biltong salad.

Kruger National Park (4 Days)

We couldn't come to South Africa and not experience its wildlife, so after a quick stopover in Johannesburg we kicked things of with a safari in Kruger National Park. We joined Selous Safaris for this 4-day excursion and ended up being blown away by the experience! I've already written about some of the highlights of going on safari in great detail so I won't ramble again, except to say that it left me in awe of the life that exists on our little planet. You can look here for a better look at what to pack for a safari.

Where I stayed in Kruger National Park

I booked my tour with Selous Safaris so they took care of accommodations. There was the option of camping out in tents or upgrading to a private cabin with electricity and running water, so I took the latter.

Northern Drakensberg (2 Days)

Our stay in Drakensberg revolved around hiking and being outdoors. For starters, Drakensberg (the Dragon's Mountain) is one of the most majestic mountain ranges I have ever seen. Sam and I signed up to do a full-day trek and we were ooh-ing and ahh-ing at every turn. The weather is quite unpredictable atop the mountain so there were stretches where we were hiking under the cover of fog, and then there were stretches where the clouds cleared and we had blue skies - those moments made for some pretty spectacular photos.

Things to do in Drakensberg

Drakensberg is all about hiking, so you'll want to bring a good pair of sneakers or some solid boots depending on how active you plan to be. You have numerous hikes that range in length and level of difficulty, like the Amphitheatre Heritage Trail, Cathedral Peak Hike, Sentinel Peak Trail, and Gray's Pass just to name a few. You could seriously spend weeks on end hiking here and still not cover all the trails. And that's not all, you can also go horse riding, hot air ballooning, biking, skydiving, abseiling, quad biking, and zip lining.

Drakensberg is also known to host some pretty epic music festivals, so if you time your visit right you'll be able to enjoy those. You have the Adrenaline Festival which is all about adrenaline sports by day and cool bands hitting the stage at night, and then there's the Smoking Dragon New Year's Festival where you get to ring the New Year with fresh South African talent.

Where I stayed in Drakensberg

In Northern Drakensberg, I stayed at Amphitheatre Backpackers, which is hands down one of the funkiest hostels I've ever set foot in! It was so artsy that my eyes almost didn't know where to look - the rainbow-coloured bar made with old glass bottles, the food packaging labels that had been used as wallpaper, the jacuzzi that sat smack dab in the middle of the bar, or the rock climbing wall that was also just adjacent to the bar. I have a feeling this is quite the party hostel during the high season... Then again, the rooms were located a short walk from the main building, which meant you could call it an early night and not be disturbed by the festivities back at the bar.

Durban (1 Day)

I only passed through Durban in transit, so unfortunately I didn't get to see a whole lot of the city. That being said, the driver who drove me to Durban had plenty of praise for his home city and he convinced me to give it a chance next time I come to South Africa. I can't give you too many tips firsthand, but here's a little peek at what you can expect from Durban.

Things to do in Durban

Some of Durban's highlights include the Big Rush in Moses Mabhida Stadium, which is a giant stadium swing perfect for thrill seekers; uShaka Marine World, which is one of the world's largest aquariums; the Golden Mile, a sandy stretch of beaches; and the Indian Quarter, where you can visit the markets or join a historic walking tour.

And we can't forget the food. Durban has one of the largest Indian populations outside of Indian, and that means delicious Indian food! One dish you simply must try is "bunny chow"; it's a curry served in a hollowed-out bread which acts as a bowl, and there is no bunny in the recipe!

If you do run out of things to do in Durban, there are also lots of easy day trip you can take. Some nearby destinations worth considering are The Valley of A Thousand Hills, the Sani Pass and Lesotho Tour, and Zululand where you can learn about Zulu traditions.

Where I stayed in Durban

While in Durban I stayed at Happy Hippo. The hostel was set in a former warehouse, so it had high ceilings and large open spaces where you could hang out with other travellers or quietly catch up on emails. There was a communal kitchen where you could prepare your own meals, and they also had a really nice rooftop bar.

Wild Coast (3 Days)

I nearly didn't stop along the Wild Coast because getting there seemed a bit tricky, but the long and bumpy journey down dirt roads brought us to a place like this! Rolling hills, sheer cliffs, and long stretches of beach with hardly another soul in sight. It felt like we had found our own little slice of paradise and no one else knew about it.

Things to do in the Wild Coast

The Wild Coast is the kind of place where you come to unwind and enjoy the tranquillity of the place. You don't come here for an action-packed schedule. Instead, you can hike out to the Hole in the Wall, enjoy the beaches, or walk to some of the local villages where kids will try to practice English with you.

Where I stayed in the Wild Coast

Wild Lubanzi was a super relaxed hostel with a come-as-you-are feel. I really think the couple who run this place have one of the best pieces of real estate on the Wild Coast! There's nothing quite like falling asleep to the sound of the crashing waves, and then waking up to a sunrise right outside your window. I also enjoyed that they had lots of pets to play with; the cats and dogs were always eager for head scratches and belly rubs. Lastly, dinners were enjoyed in a communal setting with fellow travellers and they always had something delicious cooking.

Cintsa (2 Days)

With glorious sunrises and endless beaches, Cintsa proved to be another great destination to relax. We only planned one activity during our stay here and the rest of the time we just enjoyed the view from the balcony, went for short walks and enjoyed the home cooking at Buccaneers.

Things to do in Cintsa

While I was perfectly content to just relax in Cintsa, there are plenty of ways to stay active - horse rides on the beach, game drives to spot wildlife, yoga classes, and even local brewery tours. Another thing I loved about Buccaneers is that they are very involved in the local community. They have spearheaded numerous projects to help empower people in the surrounding villages. This includes everything from helping locals start a community vegetable garden so that they can grow their own produce to sell, to building daycare centres so women can go to work knowing their children have a safe place to stay.  They also run volunteer programs for any travellers who can't seem to pull away from Cintsa and want to stay and get involved. You can find more about those opportunities at African Heartland Journeys.

Where I stayed in Cintsa

In Cintsa we stayed at Buccaneers Backpackers, which came highly recommended by many of our friends who had previously travelled to South Africa. First, let me say that the family that runs this place is lovely. They made us feel at home right from the start and they ensured that each of their guests were well looked after. Sam and I ended up staying in one of the suites, which was a private cabin with views of the lagoon and the beach below. The cool thing about Buccaneers is that the accommodations were very varied and they had something for every budget - cottages, dorms, sturdy safari tents, or you could even pitch your own tent.

Port Elizabeth (1 Day)

Things to do in Port Elizabeth

I regrettably only spent the night in Port Elizabeth as I had a bus to catch, so I didn't get to see what the city has to offer. That being said, I met a few travellers along the way who had stayed there and they mentioned things like SUP-ing (Stand Up Paddleboarding), checking out the beaches, walking the Donkin Heritage Trail, and visiting Addo Elephant National Park. Sports buffs can also catch a game of rugby at the Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium.

Where I stayed in Port Elizabeth

During my one night in Port Elizabeth, I stayed at Lungile Lodge. They had a really cool common area with a big fireplace, comfy couches, and a pool table. Unfortunately, I was so tired by the time we arrived at 11:00 p.m. that I couldn't even think of socializing, but I can see why it's a popular spot with backpackers. They also cater to different budgets; I stayed in a private room, but they had spots where you could just pitch your own tent.

Sedgefield (Passing Through)

I ended up in Sedgefield by chance after I struck up a conversation with a hostel owner while riding the Baz Bus. Since this was a long day of travel and Sedgefield was one of the stops along the way, my new friend Lyle ended up inviting everyone to enjoy a drink at his hostel AfroVibes while we stretched our legs.

I ended up learning that the town of Sedgefield has been granted cittaslow status, which is a movement that started out in Italy but has spread worldwide. Basically, it seeks to get people to slow down, live a healthy lifestyle, preserve local traditions, promote community decision-making, care for the environment and support local businesses. To be a cittaslow town you also need to have a population of fewer than 50,000 people. This was my first time hearing about this movement so I found it fascinating and it made me curious to come back to Sedgefield and experience it for myself.

Things to do in Sedgefield

Sedgefield is in a pretty cool location right between Knysna and Wilderness, so you can enjoy a lot of different activities in and around the area. The most popular activity is bungy jumping off the Bloukrans Bridge, but even if you're not a thrill seeker you can try things like surfing, wakeboarding, stand-up paddle boarding, paragliding, mountain biking, horse riding, canoeing, and more.

Where to stay in Sedgefield

Even though I didn't personally get to stay at AfroVibes Adventure Lodge, I really liked what I saw during my quick stopover, so I thought I'd mention it to anyone considering Sedgefield as a destination. The hostel is located on Myoli Beach and I'm not exaggerating when I say that it's right on the beach! It's a great spot for all you surfers, kite-boarders, and wake-boarders out there; all you have to do is roll out of bed and you're right on the water.

Wilderness (3 Days)

The name says it all - Wilderness was about enjoying the unspoiled beauty of nature and spending all day outdoors.

Things to do in Wilderness

Some of the highlights in Wilderness included canoeing the Touw River, hiking along the Giant Kingfisher Trail, going in search of waterfalls, and following the train tracks out to Kaaiman's Grotto. There's a magic in this place that pulls you in and makes it very difficult for you to ever want to leave.

Where I stayed in Wilderness

During my visit to Wilderness, I stayed at Wild Farm. This old dairy farm turned hostel was located on a hilltop and it boasted some incredible views of the beach below. Sam and I got a rustic log cabin complete with an en-suite bathroom and a piping hot shower - who says you have to rough it in Wilderness? My favourite thing about staying in this hotel was the nightly communal dinners. If you happen to be there when they have a braai, you're in for a real treat!

Cape Town (3 Days)

Cape Town was our final destination and I have to say, our 3 days there went by in a blink! We ended up taking two day trips from Cape Town, so we didn't have enough time to do the city justice, but it was enough to get a little taste of what the area is about.

Our first day trip from Cape Town was to visit the Cape Point Peninsula. We joined Day Trippers for this outing, which included highlights like: cruising to Duiker Island which is home to a huge seal colony, visiting Boulders Beach to see penguins, biking in the Cape Point Nature Reserve, and setting foot in the Cape of Good Hope - the most southwestern point on the African continent. Talk about reaching the ends of the earth!

We also took another fun day tour of Stellenbosch with Wine Flies to visit some of the local vineyards. We drank our way through 5 different wineries, and we must've sampled at least 5-6 wines in each place we visited. Let's just say everyone was feeling very happy by mid-afternoon. (You can read more about my follow-up trip to Stellenbosch two years later here!)

When we weren't taking day trips, we managed to do some sightseeing around Cape Town. Our first stop was the V&A Waterfront, which boasts some great restaurants along with spectacular views of Table Mountain.

I have to admit, aside from visiting the waterfront, I didn't feel at ease walking around other parts of Cape Town. I got the impression that most locals drive wherever they need to go even if it's a short distance, so it often felt quite isolated walking the streets. What was also difficult is that we were followed a lot by people asking for money, and the one time we tried walking to Bo-Kaap we were hassled to the point where we had to turn around and head back to our hostel. So for sightseeing around Cape Town, I'd have to say either hire a taxi to drive you around or join a guided tour.

Things to do in Cape Town

If you're not busy taking day trips like I was, there really is a lot to see in Cape Town. You have Table Mountain, Lion's Head and Signal Hill if you enjoy a bit of hiking. Then you have Robben Island for a sobering history lesson, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens for a day surrounded by nature, and colourful Bo-Kaap to discover South Africa's Malay influence.

Where I stayed in Cape Town

While in Cape Town I stayed at The B.I.G. Backpackers, which was hands down one of my favourite hostels of the trip. The staff who work at B.I.G. were perfect for their job - helpful, friendly, and welcoming. There was a big sense of camaraderie in the hostel and everyone would have breakfast together (even the staff), swap stories, and plan for the day ahead. Evenings were also a lot of fun - people would normally grab a few drinks in the communal area before heading out to dinner together or cooking a meal in the kitchen. If you ever find yourself in Cape Town, I highly recommend this spot!

Travelling from Johannesburg to Cape Town

When it comes to travelling across South Africa, you have two options: you can either rent a car and set off on your very own road trip, or you can travel by bus like I did. I joined Baz Bus and made use of their hop-on-hop-off service which allows you to travel the full length of the country between Johannesburg and Cape Town.

A few things to keep in mind if you do decide to rent a car are: you should never drive at night, you should keep your belongings out of sight in the trunk, and you should carry a mobile phone to call for help in case you need it. Also, road stops with police officers asking for bribes for some made up infractions are common (we experienced this firsthand travelling by bus, and also heard countless stories from locals experiencing the same). I'm not telling you this to scare you - I met plenty of foreigners travelling by car and they were fine - I'm merely giving you a heads up so that you are extra careful out there and know what to expect.

Travel Tips for Backpacking South Africa

Bring a South African adapter. South African electric outlets are completely different from any I've ever seen before and even my handy 4-in-1 world adapter couldn't do the trick. Get yourself one of these before you go so that you can actually charge your electronics.

Pick up a Coast to Coast guide at your hostel. You'll find free copies of these booklets at most hostels and they are super useful when planning the next leg of your trip. I also liked that this guide is written with a bit of humour.

Pick up a SIM card once you arrive. I don't normally get a SIM card for my phone when I travel, but in South Africa I made an exception and it came in handy. I mainly used it to coordinate pickups with hostels that were outside of town and to confirm tour bookings. You may want to consider getting a data plan as well because I found the internet outside of the cities to be incredibly slow.

So that was my 3-week backpacking itinerary for South Africa! I do realize that not everyone has the same amount of time, so you can browse some different South Africa itineraries here, and determine which route works best for you.

Plan & Personalize Your Johannesburg–Cape Town Route (Bonus Guide)

After three weeks and 3,400+ kilometres, I came home with a camera full of lions, mountains and ocean. And a notebook full of little tricks that make this route smoother, cheaper and way more fun. If you’re building your own Joburg-to-Cape Town itinerary (or trimming mine into a shorter loop), this section is for you.

How Long Do You Have? Pick an Itinerary Skeleton

10-Day Highlights (no fluff, lots of wow)

Days 1–2: Johannesburg base in Maboneng; Apartheid Museum or Soweto half-day

Days 3–5: Kruger safari (1 full day inside the park minimum)

Day 6: Transit to Northern Drakensberg; golden-hour hike

Day 7: Full-day Drakensberg trek

Day 8: Fly or coach to Cape Town (skip the long haul)

Days 9–10: Cape Town city + Cape Peninsula or Stellenbosch wineries

14-Day Overlander (wildlife + mountains + coast)

Days 1–2: Johannesburg

Days 3–5: Kruger (sunrise and sunset drives)

Days 6–7: Drakensberg hikes

Day 8: Durban food dash (hello, bunny chow)

Days 9–10: Wild Coast (Coffee Bay or Lubanzi) slow time

Day 11: Cintsa beach + community projects

Day 12: Wilderness (canoe + waterfall hike)

Days 13–14: Cape Town (V&A, Table Mountain, Boulders penguins)

21-Day Deep Dive (my pace—plus Garden Route cherries)

Everything in the 14-day plan plus:

Sedgefield (paragliding or market day)

Knysna/Plett/Tsitsikamma for lagoon sunsets or forest zip-lines

Stellenbosch/Franschhoek for wine flights and farm lunches

Spare day buffer in case you fall in love with a stop (you will)

Getting Around: Which Wheels Make Sense?

OptionBest ForWhat You’ll LoveKeep in MindSelf-drive (car rental)Duos/friends who want freedom & viewpointsTotal flexibility, spontaneous detours, sunrise/sunset stopsDon’t drive at night, keep valuables out of sight, plan fuel stopsHop-on/hop-off backpacker bus (e.g., Baz Bus)Solo travellers & hostel-hoppersDoor-to-door to popular backpackers, easy social vibeFixed timetable; less access to off-route gems without add-onsIntercity coaches (e.g., Intercape, City to City)Longer leaps (Durban → PE, PE → Cape Town)Comfortable seats, overnight optionsYou’ll taxi/Uber to and from stationsDomestic flightsBig jumps (Durban ↔ Cape Town; Joburg ↔ Nelspruit)**Saves a whole dayBaggage limits; airport transfers add cost/time

Realistic Drive Times (So You Don’t Overpack a Day)

LegApprox. Time (no long stops)Why It’s SneakyJohannesburg → Kruger (southern gates)4.5–6 hUrban traffic + last-minute grocery stopsKruger → Northern Drakensberg5–7 hMountain passes + viewpoint pausesDrakensberg → Durban3–4 hEasy highway, tempting bakery detoursDurban → Wild Coast (Coffee Bay)6–8 hRural roads; slow down for livestockCoffee Bay → Cintsa4–5 hScenic but windingCintsa → Port Elizabeth6–7 hLong coastal haul; plan a beachy lunch stopPort Elizabeth → Wilderness3–3.5 hStretches beg for photo breaksWilderness → Tsitsikamma1.5–2 hShort & sweet—do a forest walk en routeTsitsikamma → Stellenbosch6–7 hSnack, petrol, and farm-stall stops add upStellenbosch → Cape Town45–70 minCommuter traffic windows matter

When to Go (It’s a Country of Micro-Climates)

RegionBest WindowWhat It Feels LikeKruger & LowveldMay–Oct (dry, cooler, thinner grass)Peak wildlife viewing; cold mornings on open vehiclesDrakensbergApr–May, Sep–NovCrisp hiking weather; summer storms roll in fastWild Coast & Garden RouteYear-round, spring/autumn shineTemperate, green; winter can be beautifully clearCape Town & WinelandsOct–Apr (dry, summery)Long golden evenings; wind can howl in summer

Where to Sleep (and How to Book It)

Backpackers/hostels: Social, budget-friendly, often with fun extras (communal braais, yoga, surf lessons).

Private cabins/safari tents: The “I’m still backpacking…but I like my own bathroom” option.

Guesthouses/B&Bs: Good value along the Garden Route and in wine country.

National park stays: Book months ahead if you want inside-Kruger camps.

Budget Snapshot (Backpacker → Mid-Range)

CategoryBackpacker StyleMid-Range ComfortBed (pp/night)Dorm: $12–25 / Private: $35–70Guesthouse: $70–140Meals (per day)$12–25 (self-cater + 1 meal out)$25–45 (2 meals out)Transport (avg/day)$10–35 (bus shares / fuel splits)$20–50 (car rental split / flights amortized)Activities (avg/day)$10–40 (mix of free hikes + paid tours)$20–80 (more guided tours/tastings)

Packing List That Fits This Route

Core layers

Light tee + long-sleeve + warm fleece/puffy

Packable rain/wind shell (for Drakensberg & boat trips)

Long pants + comfortable shorts

Feet & sun

Broken-in trainers/hiking shoes

Flip-flops for showers/beach

Sun hat, sunglasses, SPF 50 (you’ll actually use it)

Safari extras

Neutral layers (avoid bright white on dusty game drives)

Binoculars (shareable if you’re a pair)

Soft scarf/buff for chilly dawn drives

Handy bits

Type M South Africa plug adapter

Headlamp (load shedding or rural nights happen)

Quick-dry towel (some hostels charge for rental)

Dry bag for phones on boats/kayaks

Reusable bottle; lip balm (wind + sun)

Basic meds (pain relief, tummy calm, motion tabs)

Safety & Road Sense

Daylight driving only. Animals, pedestrians and unlit vehicles appear after dark.

Nothing visible. Bags and cameras go in the boot, not the back seat.

Fuel & snacks. Top up when you can; stations are social hubs with clean loos and good pies.

Police stops. Be polite, ask for the written notice of any alleged infraction, and pay official fines at a station—never roadside.

SIM + maps. Pick up a local SIM on arrival; download offline maps for patchy stretches.

Trails. Sign trail books in the Drakensberg, watch weather, and turn back if clouds stack fast.

Eat This, Sip That (A Tiny, Tasty Glossary)

Bunny chow (Durban): Curry served in a hollowed-out loaf; messy, perfect.

Braai: South African barbecue—say yes if your hostel is lighting one.

Biltong & droëwors: Dried meats for road-trip snacking.

Bobotie (Cape Malay): Spiced mince bake with a custard top—comfort food.

Vetkoek & roosterkoek: Fried/braaied breads you’ll meet at markets.

Rooibos tea: Naturally caffeine-free; order it like a local.

Pinotage & MCC: The home-grown grape and the country’s sparkling wine (Méthode Cap Classique).

Chakalaka: Spicy relish that sneaks onto plates and makes everything better.

Simple Booking Blueprint (What to Reserve When)

Flight in/out (open-jaw often works: arrive Joburg, depart Cape Town).

Kruger: safari operator or in-park camp (these go first).

Drakensberg base + main hike day.

Cape Town weekends (accommodation spikes).

Wine tour / Peninsula tour (or pencil in DIY days with rental).

Everything else? Bookable as you go (the coast is flexible outside peak holidays).

One Printable Checklist Before You Go

Open-jaw flights locked (arrive JNB, depart CPT)

Safari days secured + deposit paid

Drakensberg base + weather-flex day

Transport plan: car / Baz Bus / coach / one internal flight

Accommodation holds for first 3 nights + Cape Town weekend

SIM strategy + offline maps

Type M adapter in the bag

Headlamp + small first-aid kit

Layers for cold dawn drives + sunny beach afternoons

Travel insurance info saved offline

“Yes” to at least one braai and one vineyard day

FAQ: Johannesburg to Cape Town (12 Quick Answers)

Is Kruger a malaria zone?Parts of Kruger and the Lowveld can have malaria risk, especially in the wet season. Many travellers use mosquito precautions (repellent, long sleeves at dusk) and discuss prophylaxis with a doctor. Dry season risk is generally lower, but get advice that fits your health history.

What power plug do I need?South Africa uses the large Type M three-round-pin plug. Universal adapters often don’t include it—buy one before you go or at the airport.

Can I drive with my home license?If it’s in English and photo-bearing, you can usually rent a car; an International Driving Permit is recommended and sometimes requested.

Is it safe to self-drive?Yes, with common-sense rules: daylight only, keep doors locked, don’t stop in secluded spots, fuel early, and put bags out of sight. If stopped by police, be polite, request written documentation, and pay formal fines at a station.

What’s the backpacker bus like?Hop-on/hop-off services connect popular hostels door-to-door. It’s social and stress-free but follows a fixed timetable. Book popular legs a day or two ahead in busy season.

Coach vs. flight for long hops?If time is tight, fly Durban ↔ Cape Town. If you’re saving money or like night travel, an overnight coach is comfy and cost-effective.

Can I see the Big Five in two days?Maybe—but don’t measure success only by a list. Two dawn and two late-afternoon drives maximize chances; dry season helps visibility.

What about load shedding (power cuts)?It happens. Hostels usually have backup lights and WhatsApp updates. Keep a headlamp and a charged power bank; plan showers/meals around the schedule when shared.

How should I handle cash and ATMs?ATMs are widespread in cities/towns. Use indoor bank ATMs when possible, carry a bit of small cash for rural shops and tips, and keep a backup card separate.

Is the tap water safe?Generally safe in major cities and many towns, but always ask locally. In rural/coastal spots, bottled or filtered water is the norm.

Do I need hiking permits in the Drakensberg?Some trails require conservancy or park entry fees; pay at gates/trailheads. Sign trail registers, start early, and watch for fast-building storms.

What if someone approaches my car at a traffic light?Windows mostly up, doors locked, valuables out of sight. A friendly head shake is enough; avoid opening wallets or windows.

Have you been backpacking in South Africa?Where would you stop between Johannesburg and Cape Town?

For more info on travel in South Africa visit Travel Now Now.


Just Chilling Out in Bali, Indonesia: Relaxation and Adventure Travel!

I recently spent two weeks in Bali and while I have very few photos to show for it, I really really enjoyed my time on the island! The past few months have been quite action packed - perhaps we've been trying to see too much in too little time - however things changed when we got to Bali.

We purposely chose hotels that were a little removed from the center of town, and most importantly, hotels that had nice big swimming pools!

I had a total of 2 days of sightseeing around the island, and the rest of the time was spent swimming in the pool, walking on the beach, swimming in the pool, having dinner at the beach, swimming in the pool... That was Bali for me.

I'm not going to taunt you with pool photos, since most people in North America are likely covered under a blanket of snow, however, here's a look at what I managed to do around Bali:

Visiting the Ubud Monkey Forest
I had heard tales of the mischievous monkeys at the Ubud Monkey Forest and I was half expecting to walk into the park and be greeted by a brood of macaques flashing their sharp teeth at me. While that wasn't exactly accurate, it wasn't far from the truth either... The thing about the macaques at the Monkey Forest is that they have no fear of man! Between the lack of natural predators and the daily stream of visitors who enter the park with snacks in hand, the monkeys have become quite bold.
Sam and I made the mistake of going to the park early in the morning as soon as it opened, which meant we were the only ones walking around while hungry monkeys looked at us with expectant eyes. There was just something a little creepy about being the only people there in a park full of unruly creatures...isn't that how horror movies start out?! I spent most of my time trying to avoid eye-contact and walk by unnoticed.

Climbing Mount Batur
Getting up in the wee hours of the morning to climb a volcano in the dark was one of the most strenuous yet fun activities I did on the island. The 2 hour climb had me scrambling up volcanic rock as I fought my way to the top, and the reward was a spectacular sunrise set over a lake and some of the surrounding mountain peaks. My legs were shaky for a few days after that, but it was totally worth it!

Watching a Fire and Trance Performance
During one of my first nights in Ubud, I attended the Kecak Fire and Trance performance. While there are various cultural dances on the island, the Kecak dance is considered a secular dance even though it takes place within the temple grounds.
The dance consisted of about 100 men sitting in a circular formation around a fire. It began with a handful of men chanting and it slowly grew in volume as the other men joined in with clapping and more chanting. I can't say I knew what was going on as there was no explanation about the meaning behind the dance before they started, but it was entrancing to watch nonetheless.
Aside from the Kecak Fire and Trance Dance, there are numerous dance performances that happen across Ubud. The dances are rooted in Hinduism and they each tell the story of epics from Hindu literature.

Touring the island
If there's one thing there's no shortage of in Bali, it's drivers. Anytime we went out for a walk we were met my a flood of offers - Taxi? Transport? You need driver? - so eventually we hired one to take us around the island.
I find the full day tours aboard a coach bus a bit too much to handle, so the option of hiring a driver and customizing the itinerary seemed like a good option.
In the end we ended up visiting the Tegalalang Rice Terraces, the Rock Temple of Gunung Kawi with its shrines carved into the rock wall, the Elephant Cave Temple, a coffee plantation, and we also enjoyed lunch at Sari Restaurant - a great little spot with magnificent views of Mount Batur.
It was a small taste of Bali, but just enough considering this trip was all about relaxing and having some down time.

Hopping over to Nusa Lembongan
If you're looking to expand your horizons when it comes to Indonesia's beaches, there are a lots of day trips available out of Bali to many of the surrounding islands. Some of the most popular choices are the Gili Islands, Lombok, and Nusa Penida, however, I went with the closest choice: Nusa Lembongan.
Not being one who likes to be out at sea, the 30 minute boat ride to Nusa Lembongan seemed like the most logical choice. This little island located just off of Bali's southeastern shores was a really nice change from busy towns like Ubud and Sanur. The beaches were empty, the town was sleepier, and I couldn't help thinking that this is what Bali must've been like many moons ago.
The main draw to Nusa Lembongan are all the water activities - snorkeling, scuba diving, freediving, surfing, and even kayaking. You can also visit a mangrove forest and a few of the local temples, but really, you come here for the beaches.

And that was Bali for me - a lazy vacation with not much on the itinerary. But I mean, can you blame me for not exploring more when I had a pool like this? ;)

Turning “Bali Time” Into Your Time: Practical Tips & Cost-Saving Hacks
Choose Your Base With Intention
Bali’s biggest rookie mistake is trying to see everything from one beach town. Traffic is real. Scooter horns will erode the zen you found at that sound-bath class. Instead:

Vibe You Crave
Ideal Base
Why

Boutique cafés, yoga shalas & rice-paddy cycle lanes
Ubud outskirts (Penestanan / Nyuh Kuning)
Close to Monkey Forest and dance performances, but birdsong not motorbikes wake you at dawn

Sunsets + surf without the Kuta chaos
Canggu (Berawa / Pererenan)
Beach bars, mellow breaks, hip co-working spaces

Empty sands & turtle hatchlings
North-west Bali (Pemuteran)
Reef just offshore, entry point to Menjangan Island diving

Luxe isolation
Sidemen Valley
Jungle-fringed infinity pools, Mount Agung panoramas, zero night-club thump

Book three-night clusters in two locations rather than a fortnight in one. You’ll spend less on taxis and gain totally different micro-cultures.

Decoding Transport (aka Surviving The Scooters)
Option A – Self-drive scooter – IDP licence required, helmets mandatory, rental ~IDR 70 000/day. Only choose if you have actual motorbike experience; police love on-the-spot fines.
Option B – Grab / Gojek apps – Southeast Asia’s Uber. Cheap for hops under 20 km: airport-to-Canggu ~IDR 120 000. Beware airport “no ride-hailing” zone; walk 300 m to the car-park and book there.
Option C – Private driver – For temple loops or Mount Batur, negotiate 10-hour day rate (IDR 550 000–700 000 depending on distance/vehicle size). Confirm petrol included and whether parking fees are extra.
Tip: Swap WhatsApp numbers with a driver you click with. Reliability > saving a dollar with someone new.

Sunrise Volcano Etiquette
Climbing Batur or the tougher Agung? A few courtesies:

Local guide cooperatives set fixed prices (Batur ~IDR 350 000 pp including breakfast). Haggling undermines community income; focus on guide chemistry instead.

Pack in, pack out: banana peels count as trash at 1 700 m.

Head-torch & wind-breaker – mountain-top temps drop to 5 °C, and phone flashlights die quickly.

Respect ceremony zones – if villagers are laying offerings, photographs only with permission. Agung is sacred.

Beyond The Usual Day-Trips

Tukad Cepung Waterfall – A cathedral-like shaft of light piercing a mossy cave. Arrive 8 a.m. to avoid Insta gridlock.

Sari Organik Walk – Free nature trail starting behind Pura Taman Saraswati, Ubud. Leads through emerald paddies to tiny farm cafés serving rosella iced tea.

Jatiluwih UNESCO Rice Terraces – Less tour-bus mayhem than Tegalalang. E-bike loop options, IDR 40 000 entry.

Amed Freedive Snorkel – Black-sand bays, Japanese shipwreck in waist-deep water. Sunrise over Lombok volcanoes is goose-bump good.

Cooking class at Grandma’s Home (Taman Sari Market, Canggu) – Grind sambal in a stone mortar, learn how to fold banana-leaf parcels, devour three-course lunch. Vegan modifications available.

Food: From Warung To Fine-Dine Without Breaking The Bank

Warung tip – Look for local joints displaying trays of curries, tempeh, veggies. Point at what you want; plate rarely tops IDR 35 000. If it’s busy with Balinese families, hygiene is fine.

Mid-range splurge – Hujan Locale (Ubud) for Chef Will Meyrick’s creative twist on street classics; share the Betutu duck and you won’t need dessert.

Date-night blow-out – Locavore (advance booking essential) – 7-course degustation ~IDR 1.2 million pp but arguably Bali’s most inventive nose-to-tail menu. Budget travellers: try lunch menu for half price.

Café culture – 9 a.m. queue at Crate in Canggu for smoothie bowls the size of mixing-bowls; or espresso-bar hop along Jalan Goutama, Ubud.

BYO collapsible steel straw; many warungs have ditched single-use plastics and will love you for it.

Sample 7-Day “Relax + Adventure” Itinerary

Day
Morning
Afternoon
Evening

1
Land DPS, transfer to Canggu villa
Beach walk, coconut
Tan-Lot sunset, warung dinner

2
Surf lesson (Old Man’s break)
Brunch @ Crate, massage
Sunset drinks at La Brisa

3
Driver day-trip: Jatiluwih terraces + Leke-Leke waterfall
Return via Tegalalang café
Transfer to Ubud outskirts

4
2 a.m. Mount Batur hike; crater breakfast
Hot-spring soak
Sound-healing at Pyramids of Chi

5
Lazy pool morning
Cooking class + market visit
Kecak Fire dance at Dalem Temple

6
Scooter loop: Tukad Cepung & Sidemen Valley lunch
Spa flower bath
Fine-dine at Hujan Locale

7
Campuhan ridge sunrise walk
Last-minute art shopping
Departure or boat to Nusa Lembongan

Costs average ~IDR 1 000 000 per person per day (USD 68) including mid-range rooms, a few splurges and private driver. Trim the bill by replacing Day-6 dinner with a street-side babi guling stall (IDR 40 000).

Packing Touch-Ups People Forget

Microfibre sarong (temple cover, beach towel, bus blanket)

Dry-bag 10 L for snorkel trips + Scooter monsoon downpours

Universal sink plug + eco-detergent sheets for hand-washing swimwear

Head-torch (power cuts + Batur sunrise)

Reusable cutlery set – smoothie bowl take-away, night-market nibbles

Ear-plugs (geckos start their raucous karaoke at 4 a.m.)

Balinese Phrases That Open Doors

English
Bahasa / Balinese

Hello
Halo / Swastiastu

Thank you
Terima kasih / Suksma

Delicious
Enak sekali

No plastic straw, please
Tidak pakai sedotan plastik

How much?
Berapa harganya?

Beautiful view!
Pemandangannya indah!

FAQs: Chilling Out (and Leveling Up) in Bali
What’s the best “base” if I want relaxation first, sightseeing second?
Pick Ubud outskirts (Penestanan/Nyuh Kuning) for quiet stays near culture and rice fields, or Canggu (Berawa/Pererenan) for beach time with cafés. Split your trip into two bases (3–4 nights each) to cut transit time.
Do I need a scooter or is a private driver better?
If you’re experienced on two wheels, a scooter offers freedom for short hops. Otherwise, use Grab/Gojek for point-to-point and hire a private driver for full-day loops (confirm inclusions like fuel/parking in advance).
Any etiquette or safety tips for Ubud Monkey Forest?
Don’t feed, touch, or make eye contact; stash sunglasses/water bottles; keep snacks sealed; and give macaques space. Go mid-morning when crowds dilute the attention you get from hungry monkeys.
How hard is the Mount Batur sunrise hike?
About 2 hours up on volcanic gravel with steady gain—manageable with basic fitness. Pack headlamp, light windbreaker, water, and closed shoes. Respect temple/ceremony zones at the summit.
Are there good day trips from Bali that still feel chill?
Yes—Nusa Lembongan is a low-stress 30-minute boat hop for empty-feeling beaches, snorkeling, and mangroves. For greener vistas, try Jatiluwih over Tegalalang to dodge tour-bus crunch.
What cultural experiences pair well with a lazy itinerary?
An evening Kecak Fire & Trance performance in Ubud, a cooking class with market visit, and a sound-healing session offer rich culture without heavy logistics.
How should I dress for temples and performances?
Carry a sarong (or borrow one at entrances). Cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes where posted, and step around—not over—offerings.
Pool life all day…what’s the smartest packing tweak?
Bring a microfiber sarong, 10L dry bag (for boat trips/sudden showers), universal sink plug + eco detergent sheets for quick wash, headlamp for early hikes, and earplugs (gecko chorus is real).
What’s a simple 7-day relax + adventure plan?
Two clusters: Canggu (days 1–3) for beach/surf/sunsets, then Ubud outskirts (days 4–7) for Batur sunrise, rice terraces, waterfall, dance night, spa, and slow café mornings—exactly like your sample plan.
How much should I budget per day?
Your guide’s mid-range estimate is ~IDR 1,000,000 per person/day (about a comfy mix of villas, some splurges, and a private driver day). Trim costs with warung meals and ride-hails over taxis.
Is Bali still doable if I don’t want to “see everything”?
Absolutely. Bali rewards doing less, better—a quiet pool, one great sunset, and one meaningful cultural outing can beat a checklist of 10 attractions.
What are a few “beyond the usual” ideas when I have extra energy?
Tukad Cepung Waterfall (early), Sari Organik rice-field walk, Amed snorkeling at sunrise, or Sidemen Valley for jungle-rimmed infinity pools and Mount Agung views.
Attempting the local tongue usually doubles the grin you’ll receive and sometimes halves the price of mangosteens.
Have you been to Bali, Indonesia?What were some of the highlights for you?


Kamakura Day Trip Itinerary From Tokyo: Shrines, Temples & Street Food!

Today we're sharing our Kamakura day trip itinerary complete with shrines, temples and plenty of street food! This coastal town in Kanagawa Prefecture is a super easy day trip from Tokyo and well worth a visit.

We went on a lot of different day trips from Tokyo over the course of our month-long stay in the Japanese capital. There was Mount Takao in search of nature, Yokohama for street food, Odaiba for robots, and then Kamakura.

Nicknamed 'the Kyoto of the East', Kamakura is a laidback coastal city known for its many shrines and temples, so that's exactly what we prioritized during our day trip. We did a whole lot of temple hopping visiting Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, Kotoku-in, and Hasedera. Plus, we fueled our day with plenty of Japanese street food!

Here's a little taste of what we got up to on our day trip to Kamakura.

Kamakura Travel Guide: Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Kamakura, Japan

Getting to Kamakura from Tokyo

There are a few different ways to get from Tokyo to Kamakura.

JR Yokosuka Line: This line offers a direct connection from Tokyo Station to Kamakura Station. The journey takes just under an hour and costs 950 yen. The train also stops at other stations like Shinagawa and Yokohama.

JR Shonan Shinjuku Line: This line provides a direct connection between Shinjuku Station and Kamakura Station, with a travel time of about one hour and a cost of 950 yen. This was the option we went with to get to Kamakura. Note that only trains bound for Zushi offer a direct connection to Kamakura approximately every second train, or about two departures per hour. If you're not on a direct train, you'll need to transfer at Ofuna Station.

Odakyu Railway: For a more economical option, the Odakyu Railway offers the Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass. This pass includes a round trip between Shinjuku and Enoshima and unlimited use of the Enoden Line trains between Fujisawa, Enoshima, and Kamakura for 1640 yen. However, this route takes almost twice as long as the JR options.

Visiting temples and shrines in Kamakura

There are plenty of shrines and temples to visit in Kamakura, but since we were only visiting on a day trip, we decided to focus on just 3:

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

The first place we visited was Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, the most important Shinto shrine in Kamakura and thankfully it was just a short walk from the train station.

The original shrine was built in the year 1063 (yes, almost a thousand years ago!), though, of course, it has been expanded and restored since then. This shrine is dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war, and the patron god of samurais.

The shrine complex is known for its beautiful approach and surroundings, including a long street lined with cherry trees, leading up to the shrine's main entrance. It features several buildings and structures of historical and cultural significance and is a popular spot for a variety of festivals and events throughout the year, including the famous Yabusame Festival, which is a horseback archery festival that dates back to the 12th century!

This shrine had beautiful grounds, we walked through a red torii gate at the entrance, strolled along the ponds, saw a wall of sake offerings, and then climbed the steps to the main shrine within the grounds.

The temple was busy, especially with school groups who were visiting for the day, but it had little pockets of tranquillity.

Kotoku-in

From there, we backtracked to the train station and hopped on the Enoden Railway Line and travelled 3 stops over to Hase to visit Kotoku-in.

This temple is home to the second-largest Buddha in all of Japan which stands 11.4 meters tall (the largest is found in Nara).

The bronze Buddha is believed to date back to 1252 and it was preceded by a wooden Buddha. The Buddha was originally housed inside a temple, but that was destroyed by multiple typhoons and tidal waves, so it's been in the open air since the late 15th century.

The bronze Buddha is hollow inside and it's open to visitors, however, since we visited over the summer on a day of sweltering heat, setting foot inside the statue didn't seem all that appealing!

Hasedera

The last temple we visited in Kamakura was Hasedera, which is a Buddhist temple famous for its large wooden statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. The statue is one of the largest wooden sculptures in Japan and stands at about 9 meters tall.

Hasedera is situated on a hillside and offers stunning views of the town and ocean. The temple is also renowned for its beautiful garden, which features a variety of flowers that bloom in different seasons, making it a picturesque spot throughout the year.

We happened to visit when the hydrangeas were in bloom and there were very long queues to view them. Visitors were assigned numbers and admitted in groups, but since we're not ones to wait patiently in line for hours on end, we skipped the hydrangeas and explored the temple grounds instead.

The highlight was visiting the Benzaiten Grotto, which is a small cave network dedicated to Benzaiten, the sea goddess and the only female to form part of the Seven Lucky Gods in Japanese mythology.

The walls had carvings of the goddess as well as small statues lit by candles and placed in niches.

Visiting the cave is pretty easy as there's a clear path to follow, just be aware that there will be some water dripping down from the walls and ceiling, and that you'll also need to hunch over to get through the tunnel.

For more ideas of things to do in Kamakura, here's a list of temples, shrines and historical sites to visit. There's enough in Kamakura to keep you busy for a few days if you have the time!

Street Food in Kamakura

Aside from its temples and shrines, Kamakura is also a bit of a foodie destination with lots of street food on offer. In between all the sightseeing, we made time to walk the length of Komachi Street, which is a long pedestrian lane lined with small boutiques, souvenir shops and food vendors.

All you have to do to find this place is take the east exit from the main train station and look for the red torii which marks the start of the shopping street.

Here's a list of some of the Japanese foods we sampled along the way:

Strawberry and Custard Mochi - ¥300

We ate lots of mochi during our trip to Japan, but this one was quite special! This plump mochi was stuffed with a sweet custard and topped with a perfect strawberry. It was delicious and a nice change from all the red bean mochis I had sampled up until then.

Omelette with Whitebait - ¥250

One food item that Kamakura is known for is whitebait (tiny white fish) that make appearances in both savoury and sweet desserts. Sam tried the omelette with whitebait, which he found pretty tasty. However, for the more adventurous eater, we noticed soft-serve ice cream topped with whitebait! That was a first.

Apple and Cinnamon Taiyaki - ¥350

Taiyaki is a fish-shaped pancake that is generally stuffed with red bean paste, sweet potato or custard. While the batter generally resembles that of a fluffy pancake or a waffle, what drew us to this one is that it was quite buttery and flaky, a bit like millefeuille. This one was stuffed with apples and cinnamon and tasted a bit like an apple pie.

Warabimochi - ¥250

We didn't really know what we were having when we approached this particular food stand. "It's like baby skin!" the shop owner told us as he jiggled a honey-coloured jelly, rolled it in roasted soybean flour and then placed it on a skewer. It turns out this was a dessert made from bracken starch - slightly different from mochi which is made from glutinous rice, but surprisingly tasty.

Black Sesame and Soy Milk Ice Cream - ¥380

As we were walking down Komachi-dori, we came across a shop specializing in all things sesame. Since they were handing out free samples, we decided to walk in and have a look around the store and also sample their ice cream. We got a black sesame soy milk ice cream that was covered in roasted sesame. Sam thought it tasted a bit salty and nutty, but worth trying!

Cheese Korokke - ¥180

For a savoury street food snack, we decided to try the cheese korokke, which is basically the Japanese version of a croquette. It was a potato and cheese mash, coated in breadcrumbs and then deep-fried. The cheese was a nice addition.

Matcha and Purple Sweet Potato Ice Cream - ¥350

And because we visited Kamakura in the middle of summer and were melting, we stopped for a second ice cream cone! This time, we went for the matcha and purple sweet potato. Out of all the soft-serve ice creams we had in Japan, the purple sweet potato had the mildest flavour, but it was very refreshing so no complaints there.

And that pretty much sums up our day trip to Kamakura.

Is Kamakura worth visiting?

Kamakura is a really fun and easy day trip from Tokyo and it's worth doing to experience a different side of Japan.

I would have liked to spend even longer in Kamakura to visit a few more temples and even make it down to the beach, but as I mentioned, we were visiting in the middle of summer and it was so hot and humid that by mid-afternoon, we called it quits and returned to our air-conditioned apartment.

I bet if we'd visited in spring or autumn, we would have been able to cram a bit more into our day trip, but nevertheless, it was a nice visit.

I'll now leave you guys with a video of our day trip to Kamakura:

Kamakura Trip Planner: Smart Routes, Gear & Good-To-Know Tips

You’ve got the highlights down—Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, the Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in and Hasedera. Plus a delicious stroll along Komachi-dōri.

When to go (and what you’ll see)

Late March–early April (sakura): The approach to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū is lined with cherry trees; the promenade becomes a pink tunnel. Expect crowds—arrive early.

June (hydrangea season): Hasedera and Meigetsu-in (nicknamed Ajisai-dera, “Hydrangea Temple”) explode in blues and purples. Many temples run timed entry; lines snake but move.

September–October: Warm seas + fewer crowds = best combo for beach time at Yuigahama/Zaimokuza and golden hour at Inamuragasaki.

Mid-November–early December (kōyō foliage): Maple reds around Engaku-ji, Kenchō-ji and the Daibutsu hiking trail.

Festival watch: Yabusame (horseback archery) rides into Hachiman-gū each April and September. Hatsumōde (New Year’s first shrine visit) packs the town Jan 1–3.

Getting around (without wasting steps)

Two rails rule Kamakura days: JR lines get you in; the Enoden (Enoshima Electric Railway) shuttles you between Kamakura ⇄ Hase ⇄ Gokurakuji ⇄ Inamuragasaki ⇄ Enoshima with sea peeks between houses.

One-way loop I love: Walk Kamakura Station → Komachi-dōri → Hachiman-gū, then return to the station and hop Enoden to Hase for Kōtoku-in and Hasedera. Continue to Inamuragasaki for sunset, then ride back.

Lockers: Kamakura Station (east & west exits) has coin lockers; so does Hase. Handy if you’re beach-bound or carrying picnic gear.

IC cards (Suica, PASMO, etc.) tap through both JR and Enoden; keep small coins for temple admission and snacks.

Pocket Checklist Cheat Sheet

ItemWhy It HelpsUse It WhenCompact rain shellSudden coastal squallsSummer afternoons, typhoon season.Sun hat + SPF 50 stickStrong UV even on hazy daysOpen courts at Kōtoku-in & beach walks.Light gloves / sleevesModesty & sun/chill controlShrine visits; breezy cliff overlooks.Electrolyte tabsHeat + humidity helperRefill your bottle at konbini drink machines.Hand towel (tenugui)Temple ablutions / sweatChōzuya (purification basin) etiquette.Small coin pouchFast admission / goshuin feesMany windows are cash-only & exact change wins.Goshuin-chō (stamp book)Beautiful calligraphy souvenirAsk “Goshuin onegai shimasu” at temple offices.Portable batteryPhotos + maps + train timesYou’ll shoot a lot more than you think.Compact umbrellaShade + rain double-dutyLanes are narrow—think small, not golf.Spare maskSome indoor sights still prefer themMuseums, crowded trains at rush hour.

At-a-Glance Day Plan (stress-free loop)

TimeFocusWhereTiny Tip08:15Ride inShinjuku/Tokyo → Kamakura (JR)Sit left facing the front for sea views near Ofuna.09:15Warm-up wanderKomachi-dōriStart with a savory bite (cheese korokke) before sweets.10:00Big shrine energyTsurugaoka Hachiman-gūClimb the grand stairs for city views + wide photos.11:15Souvenir pauseKomachi-dōri back lanePick up Hato Saburē cookies near the torii.11:45Train hopEnoden → Hase (3 stops)Grab the front car—best windows for coastal peeks.12:00Great BuddhaKōtoku-inMidday sun bounces—polarizing filter helps.12:45LunchHase areaTry shirasu-don (whitebait bowl) or veggie curry near the station.13:45Gardens + cavesHasederaFollow signs to the Benzaiten Grotto; mind the low ceiling.15:15Optional hikeStart Daibutsu Trail (from behind Kōtoku-in)Closed after heavy rain; sneakers with grip.16:45Sea breezeInamuragasaki ParkCalm cove + Mt. Fuji silhouette on clear days.18:10ReturnEnoden back to KamakuraStop at Gokurakuji if you collect filming locations.19:00Train outJR back to TokyoSnacks for the ride: sesame soft-serve or taiyaki for dessert.

Passes & fares (quick compare)

PassWhat it coversWhen it’s worth itBuy itEnoshima–Kamakura Freepass (Odakyu)Round-trip Shinjuku ⇄ Fujisawa (Odakyu) + unlimited EnodenYou’re starting from Shinjuku and will bounce across multiple Enoden stops (Hase + Inamuragasaki + Enoshima).Odakyu counters at Shinjuku.Enoden 1-Day Pass (Noriorikun)Unlimited Enoden rides onlyYou’re already in Kamakura or coming via JR and plan multiple hops.Enoden stations.Plain IC card (Suica/PASMO)Tap-and-go on JR + Enoden; small discounts over paper faresYou prefer flexibility; doing a simple out-and-back with 1–2 hops.Any major station ticket machine.

Eat well beyond Komachi-dōri

I love the street-food crawl, but if you’d like a sit-down or dietary options:

Shirasu-don (whitebait bowl): Many Hase-area spots offer it raw (nama) or boiled (kama-age). If raw makes you hesitate, half-and-half is a happy medium.

Curry & veg-friendly: Look for little cafés near Hase Station that do vegetable curries, tofu hamburg steaks or shōjin ryōri-inspired sets (Buddhist temple cuisine).

Wagashi + tea: Traditional sweet shops around Hachiman-gū serve warabimochi and anmitsu with a bowl of matcha—perfect mid-day pause.

Coffee fixes: Third-wave cafés dot Komachi’s side streets; keep an eye out for pour-over bars with cozy tatami rooms upstairs.

Budget the day (sample, per adult)

JR Tokyo ⇄ Kamakura (IC fares): about ¥950 each way

Enoden hops (IC): ¥200–¥330 per hop (or day pass if you’re bouncing a lot)

Admissions: Kōtoku-in ¥300, Hasedera ¥400–¥500, many others ¥200–¥500

Lunch set: ¥900–¥1,500

Street snacks + drinks: ¥1,000–¥1,500 (depending on how many cones you “accidentally” order)

Goshuin calligraphy: ¥300–¥500 each (optional)

You can do a delicious, temple-rich day for ¥4,500–¥7,000, not counting souvenirs.

“Just one more temple?”—7 fast add-ons

Engaku-ji (north): Zen calm and a handsome bell tower. Easy from Kita-Kamakura Station.

Kenchō-ji: Oldest Zen training monastery in Kamakura; enormous Sanmon gate.

Meigetsu-in: Round “Window of Enlightenment” framing seasonal gardens (famously hydrangeas).

Hōkoku-ji: Intimate bamboo grove + matcha set under the trees.

An’yō-in: Mossy steps; often quiet even in peak seasons.

Goryō Jinja: Small shrine with trains sliding past—rail and shrine in one frame.

Inamuragasaki Park: Not a temple, but the best Fuji-chance sunset stage on crisp winter days.

Kamakura Day Trip FAQ: Trains, Temples, Hydrangeas & Komachi-dōri Bites (12 Essentials)

What’s the fastest way to get to Kamakura from central Tokyo?

JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo/Shinagawa or JR Shōnan-Shinjuku Line from Shinjuku take ~1 hour and cost ~¥950 one-way. If your Shōnan-Shinjuku isn’t a through train, transfer at Ōfuna. Tap IC (Suica/PASMO) for simplicity.

Is the Odakyu Enoshima–Kamakura Freepass worth it?

It can be if you’re starting from Shinjuku and plan multiple Enoden hops (Hase, Inamuragasaki, Enoshima). It’s cheaper overall but slower than JR. If time > money, use JR; if savings + unlimited Enoden appeals, grab the pass.

How should I structure a no-rush day?

Morning: Komachi-dōri stroll → Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū.Midday: Enoden to Hase → Kōtoku-in (Great Buddha) → lunch.Afternoon: Hasedera (gardens + Benzaiten grotto).Golden hour: Inamuragasaki Park for sea views (and Fuji on clear winter days).

When is Kamakura at its prettiest?

Late Mar–early Apr for cherry blossoms along the shrine approach; June for hydrangeas (Hasedera/Meigetsu-in); mid-Nov–early Dec for maple foliage (Engaku-ji, Kenchō-ji). Summer brings beaches; winter brings crisp Fuji views.

Do I need tickets in advance for Hasedera hydrangeas?

In peak June bloom, timed/numbered entry is common and queues form. Go early or visit gardens/temple areas beyond the hydrangea path if you’d rather skip lines.

Can I see inside the Great Buddha?

Yes—the Kōtoku-in Daibutsu is hollow and the interior opens with a small extra fee. On hot summer days it’s toasty inside; many visitors admire it from outside only.

What are typical temple fees and payments?

Most major spots are ¥200–¥500 (Kōtoku-in ~¥300, Hasedera ~¥400–¥500). Carry coins; many windows are cash-only. Goshuin (calligraphy seals) cost ~¥300–¥500 each.

What street foods should I try on Komachi-dōri?

Your musts from the walk: strawberry-custard mochi, warabimochi, taiyaki (apple-cinnamon is fab), black-sesame soy-milk soft-serve, shirasu (whitebait) omelets/croquettes, and cheese korokke. Start savory, finish sweet.

Is there an easy hike to add?

Yes—the Daibutsu Hiking Trail links behind Kōtoku-in toward Jōchi-ji/Kitakamakura. It’s short, rooted, and closed after heavy rain. Sneakers with grip are sufficient.

What should I pack for a summer visit?

Light layers, compact umbrella, SPF 50, hat, electrolytes, small towel (tenugui), portable battery, and a coin pouch. Humidity runs high—pace yourself and hydrate.

Are coin lockers available?

Yes—Kamakura Station (both exits) and Hase Station have lockers. Useful if you’re beach-bound or carrying camera gear.

How much will the day cost (ballpark)?

JR round-trip ~¥1,900; Enoden hops ~¥200–¥330 each (or day pass); admissions ~¥1,000–¥1,500 total; lunch ~¥900–¥1,500; snacks/drinks ~¥1,000–¥1,500. Expect ¥4,500–¥7,000 before souvenirs.

Have you been to Kamakura on a day trip in Japan?Which attractions did you visit?

Read more about Japan:

5 Fun Osaka Bike Tours

Fun Things to do in Hakodate, Hokkaido

Crossing Japan's Famous Alpine Route


Karakol for Foodies: Where to Eat and What to Eat in Kyrgyzstan!

For many, Karakol is the gateway to the mountains. This is where many a hike and horse trek begins, but for me, Karakol was all about the food!
This town is a melting pot for cultures - Kyrgyz, Dungan, Tatar, Uyghur and Russian - which means you get quite a bit of variety when it comes to the food. From refreshing soups to bowls of spicy noodles, and from sweet treats to fermented mare's milk, Karakol has plenty of experiences to keep your taste buds interested.
So whether you're a foodie looking to tuck into the local cuisine, or you're a hungry hiker in search of a delicious post-trek feast, here are some fun food experiences to check out in Karakol.
I hope you’re hungry!
Have a bowl of Ashlyan-Fu
Ashlyan-fu is one of my favourite dishes, so much so, that while in Karakol, I was having a bowl every day!
This is a cold soup that has two different types of noodles made from wheat and starch. The wheat noodles look a lot like spaghetti and the starch noodles have a jelly-like consistency. It has a vinegar-based broth with a mixture of tomatoes, bell peppers, and garlic.
The whole thing is topped off with a spicy red chilli paste that you can mix into the broth, and a little bit of chopped cilantro.
It’s delicious and such a refreshing dish on a hot summer’s day.

This dish is very easy to find; you can order it at just about any restaurant, but for a truly local experience you can go down to the market and eat at a bowl in Ashlayn-fu Alley where there are lots of little food stands packed together, all serving this one dish.
Once you're inside the market, just ask a local to point you in the right direction, because this alley can be a little tricky to find!
Here are a few other Kyrgyz dishes to keep in mind during your visit.
Address: Ashlyan-fu Alley inside the Karakol Small Bazaar
Enjoy a meal with a Dungan Family
For a feast to end all feasts, you need to eat with a Dungan family.
The Dungans are an ethnically Chinese group who are also Muslim, and they have their own distinct cuisine.
Since the Dungans are primarily farmers, this means that a lot of their dishes consists of vegetables.
We had an assortment of rice bowls, noodle dishes, stir-fried vegetables, steamed bread, fried dumplings, and plates with fresh fruit.

Once the meal was laid out in front of us (there must’ve been at least 50 plates!) we learned that a Dungan meal must consist of a minimum of 8 dishes, but often more!
This was a very casual meal where we all ate together and had the freedom to ask our host family questions about Dungan culture.
Just make sure you have a light breakfast or skip breakfast altogether because you're going to be stuffed!
You can book this Dungan Village Family Dinner here, or you can visit the Destination Karakol offices once you arrive in Karakol at 22 Gagarin Street.

Learn to make lagman from scratch
Lagman is a popular Uyghur dish that you’re going to encounter time and time again as you travel through Kyrgyzstan.
This is a hand-pulled noodle dish with Chinese origins. The noodles are generally served with meat and vegetables, but they can be prepared 3 different ways: fried, soupy, or something in between.
We had been eating this dish all along our travels in Kyrgyzstan, so it was time to finally learn how to make it ourselves.

We took a cooking class through Destination Karakol and met Gulya, our Uyghur master chef for the day.
She taught us the art of stretching out the noodle, which is surprisingly tricky (we broke a few noodles short in the process), and then once that task was completed, we all crowded around her kitchen to see how the sauce was made.
It was a fun way to spend the morning and we were all ready for lunch by the time the food was ready.

Note: This cooking class can also be arranged directly through Destination Karakol, or you can visit their offices in Karakol at 22 Gagarin Street.
Indulge your sweet tooth at Fat Cat
If you’re craving some good coffee and home-baked goods, then you need to make a beeline for the Fat Cat Cafe.
They serve up cheesecakes with raspberry jam, brownies with vanilla ice cream and caramel, layered honey-cream cakes, and other sweet treats.

One of the reasons I love this spot is because the owner Zhamila is using her cafe to do good in the community.
The cafe is involved in numerous projects, ranging from providing students with school supplies for the year to teaching women baking skills so they can start businesses back in their communities.
It's a great cause plus the food is great, so we paid a few visits over the course of our stay.
Also, in the evenings, this place transforms into a cool hangout spot with lots of travellers, so it's a nice place to drop by for a craft beer with a grilled sandwich or pizza.
Address: Corner of Gagarin and Alybakova (right next to Destination Karakol offices).
Drink a glass of mare’s milk
Oh, Kumis!
It seems that wherever you travel in Kyrgyzstan, someone is always trying to offer you a bowl of fermented mare’s milk.
Yes, we’re talking about horse milk. I think they do it to get a funny reaction out of foreigners, but hey, when in Kyrgyzstan!
I’ve had it a few times and while I can’t say it’s my favourite (it’s a bit too salty and sour for my liking!) it seems to be a rite of passage, so why not try it at least once.

Again, this is very easy to find in Karakol. You can order it at most restaurants, or you can look for buildings that have a ‘кымыз’ sign out front.
At one of the hotels we stayed in, we even found a bottle of kumis in the fridge right next to the water and sodas, so you know it's a popular drink!
Address: Pretty much every restaurant!

Karakol’s Food Scene: More Flavours, Tips & Advice

Start Your Day the Kyrgyz Way: Local Breakfast Rituals

Don’t skip breakfast in Karakol!A typical local breakfast might feature homemade bread, fresh eggs, preserves, tangy Kyrgyz yogurt, and kaymak (a creamy, lightly salted spread you’ll dream about long after your trip).

Bazaar Bakeries: Head to the central market in the morning for fresh lepeshka (round bread) straight from the tandoor ovens. Buy it hot, tear it with your hands, and eat it with honey or kaymak.

Tea Houses: Many small tea houses (chaykhana) open early for locals. Order a strong black tea (served in a bowl, not a cup!), and enjoy it with local pastries or simple omelettes.

Dive Into Karakol’s Bustling Markets

One of the absolute highlights for foodies is a wander through Karakol’s markets. The main Karakol Bazaar is the hub of local life, and it’s where you’ll see Kyrgyz grandmothers haggling over cheese, Dungan vendors piling up heaps of herbs, and Uyghur ladies rolling out dough for dumplings.

What to look for at the market:

Kurts: Little hard balls of dried fermented milk, salty and tangy. Locals eat these as a snack or dissolve them into soups.

Local Cheese: Ask for “ayran” or “byshlak.” Try before you buy, as flavors range from mild and milky to punchy and sour.

Dried Fruits & Nuts: Apricots, walnuts, almonds, and plump raisins—ideal trail snacks.

Fresh Herbs: Dill, cilantro, mint, and chives—no meal is complete without a mountain of herbs.

Market food stalls to try:You’ll spot vendors frying belyashi (deep-fried meat pies), selling warm samsa (flaky pastries stuffed with lamb or pumpkin), and serving up plov (Central Asian rice pilaf).

Learn by Doing: Cooking Classes in Karakol

If you really want to take a piece of Karakol home, book a local cooking class. Making lagman noodles is a highlight, but you might also get to learn how to make:

Manti: Steamed dumplings stuffed with meat and onion, sometimes pumpkin.

Borsok: Small fried dough balls—addictive and perfect with tea.

Chuchuk: A Kyrgyz-style sausage, often made during festivals.

Eat Like a Local: More Dishes & Drinks to Try

Karakol’s multicultural blend means a world of options beyond the classics. Some favorites:

Shashlik: Marinated meat skewers grilled over open coals. Lamb is traditional, but chicken and beef are also common.

Pelmeni: Russian-style dumplings, served in broth with sour cream and dill.

Ganfan: A hearty rice dish topped with a stir-fried mix of meat and vegetables, Uyghur in origin.

Chalap: A salty, yogurt-based drink. Refreshing but definitely an acquired taste.

Compote: Sweet homemade fruit punch—great for those avoiding alcohol or just needing a sugar hit.

Sweets to seek out:

Halva: Dense, nutty, and often homemade.

Pakhlava: Layers of flaky pastry, honey, and nuts—a Central Asian take on baklava.

Local ice cream: Especially good in the warmer months!

Seasonal Specialties & Food Festivals

Depending on when you visit, you might stumble into a local festival or seasonal treat:

Nowruz (Spring Equinox): Look for sumalak (a sweet wheat pudding) and communal plov feasts.

Autumn Harvest: Markets are bursting with fresh apples, pears, melons, and walnuts.

Summer Bazaars: Open-air food stalls, picnic-style gatherings, and sometimes even outdoor barbecues in the parks.

Sample 48-Hour Food-Forward Itinerary

Day 1

Morning: Wander Ashlyan-fu Alley; compare two vendors.

Noon: Boorsok workshop; dip golden squares into homemade jam.

Afternoon: Fat Cat iced latte + journaling; museum of Regional History across street (30 som).

Evening: Dungan family dinner in Yrdyk village—count the plates!

Day 2

Sunrise: Fresh samsa from roadside tandoor by Karasaev Street (they sell out by 07:30).

Mid-morning: Tread the Sunday Animal Market with a guide—try warm shorpo ladled straight from a cauldron.

Lunch: Picnic at Przhevalsky Park lakeshore (smoked trout from market + bread).

Late afternoon: Uyghur lagman class, chopstick practice, belly laughs.

Night: Craft-beer crawl—Issyk Kul Brewery taproom then Fat Cat open-mic; end with street-kymyz dare!

Karakol for Foodies: 12-Question FAQ (Where to Eat & What to Eat in Kyrgyzstan)

What makes Karakol such a great foodie destination?

Karakol’s kitchen reflects its cultural blend—Kyrgyz, Dungan, Uyghur, Tatar, and Russian—so you can slurp spicy noodles for lunch, nibble flaky pastries at tea time, and share a communal feast by night. It’s also super walkable: markets, cafés, and trailhead-adjacent eateries are all within easy reach.

What dishes should I prioritize if I only have a couple of days?

Start with ashlyan-fu (icy, tangy noodle soup), lagman (hand-pulled noodles—fried, soupy, or in-between), and manti (steamed dumplings). Add plov, shashlik, pelmeni, and ganfan. Snack on boorsok (fried dough), sip compote (fruit punch) or chalap (salty yogurt drink), and leave room for pakhlava and halva.

Where can I find the most authentic ashlyan-fu?

Head to Ashlyan-fu Alley inside the Karakol Small Bazaar. It’s a warren of tiny stalls serving this single specialty—cold wheat and starch noodles in a vinegary, garlicky tomato broth with a dollop of fiery chili paste and a sprinkle of cilantro. If you get turned around, ask any vendor to point the way.

What is a Dungan family dinner—and how do I join one?

It’s a communal feast hosted by a local Dungan family—think 8+ dishes (often many more!) spanning rice bowls, noodles, stir-fried veg, steamed bread, dumplings, and fruit. It’s casual, interactive, and a great window into Dungan culture. You can arrange it via Destination Karakol (visit their office at 22 Gagarin Street) or book in advance through them.

Can I take a class to learn hand-pulled lagman from scratch?

Yes! Destination Karakol can set up Uyghur lagman classes—you’ll practice stretching dough (it’s trickier than it looks!) and cook a saucy meat-and-veg topping. It’s a fun morning activity and you’ll sit down to your own handiwork for lunch. Ask at 22 Gagarin Street to schedule.

Where should I go for coffee, cakes, and a cozy vibe?

Fat Cat Café (corner of Gagarin & Alybakova, right by Destination Karakol) serves cheesecakes, brownies à la mode, layered honey cakes, good coffee, and easy comfort food. It’s also a community-minded spot supporting local initiatives; evenings often turn social with travelers, craft beer, and the occasional open mic.

What’s kumis—and where can I try it?

Kumis is fermented mare’s milk—salty, tangy, lightly effervescent, and a Kyrgyz rite of passage. You’ll see it on restaurant menus and in shops marked “кымыз.” It’s not everyone’s favorite, but it’s worth a sip for the cultural experience.

Which markets should I explore and what should I buy?

The Karakol Bazaar is foodie heaven. Look for lepeshka (round tandoor bread), kurts (salty dried yogurt balls), local cheeses (ayran, byshlak), piles of fresh herbs, dried fruit, and nuts for trail snacks. Hot counters dish out samsa, belyashi, and ladles of plov—perfect for a roaming lunch.

What does a typical Kyrgyz breakfast look like in Karakol?

Mornings are simple and satisfying: homemade bread, eggs, preserves, tangy yogurt, and kaymak (a dreamy, lightly salted clotted cream). Try a chaykhana (teahouse) for strong black tea served in bowls, or swing by the bazaar bakeries to catch lepeshka fresh from the tandoor.

Is Karakol doable for vegetarians?

Yes—especially at markets and Dungan or Uyghur eateries where veggie stir-fries, ganfan without meat, manti with pumpkin, salads, breads, and dairy are common. Just specify “no meat” clearly, and you’ll still eat very well.

Are there seasonal specialties or food festivals I should know about?

Absolutely. Around Nowruz (spring equinox) look for sumalak (sweet wheat pudding) and festive plov. Autumn brings a bounty of apples, pears, walnuts, and melons. Summer is picnic season with open-air stalls and impromptu BBQs in parks and by the lakeshore.

Can you suggest a 48-hour food-forward game plan?

Day 1: Ashlyan-fu Alley taste-off → quick boorsok workshop → coffee & cake at Fat Cat → Dungan family dinner in Yrdyk (count the plates!).Day 2: Sunrise samsa run → Sunday Animal Market with steaming shorpo → lakeside picnic (smoked trout + bread) → lagman class → craft-beer crawl (Issyk Kul Brewery tap + Fat Cat), and a daring nightcap of kymyz.

If you enjoyed this post, check out our 10 Kyrgyzstan Travel Tips For Adventurous Travelers.

Have you ever tried Kyrgyz or Central Asian food?What was your favourite dish?

This trip was made possible in partnership with Discover Kyrgyzstan and Destination Karakol. As always, all opinions expressed here are my own.