Visiting Antigua: A Week of Sun, Fun and Rum in the Caribbean!

I recently had the chance to spend a week visiting Antigua, a beautiful Caribbean island, and my oh my, was it a good time! On the flight over Sam and I were trying to figure out when exactly we'd last been on a Caribbean island and realized it was 4 years ago for our honeymoon! That's way too long, especially considering how much I love the beach.

This was our first time visiting Antigua and while we were both looking forward to relaxing and alternating between the beach and the pool, we were also pretty excited to explore the island and see what it has to offer. I think we managed to strike the perfect balance!

Mornings quickly became about putting on our swimsuits and running down to the water, and that left us with the afternoons to discover the island's flavour. I got to enjoy plenty of beach time, but we also managed to take a cooking class, explore the colourful capital of St. John's, attend the renowned Sunday Barbecue Party, and catch part of Antigua Sailing Week.

Now let's rewind and take a look back at our week visiting Antigua:

Antigua Travel Guide: Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience on Antigua

Enjoying plenty of beach time

First things first, let's talk about the beach! Did you know that Antigua has 365 beaches? That's 1 for every day of the year!

One week was not enough to explore them all - I think I maybe made it to 4! - but I made it my daily mission to hit the beach every morning. I was basically up at the crack of dawn, grabbing breakfast as soon as the buffet opened, and then running down to the water before any other guest.

Our resort had two different beaches and the main one was set in a cove, so we had super calm waters perfect for kayaking, stand up paddleboarding, and just enjoying a swim.

Learning to cook with rum

I love taking cooking classes wherever I travel - I've learned to make pierogi in Poland, pasta in Italy, and curries in Thailand - and in Antigua, I jumped at the opportunity to cook with rum!

I joined a cooking class at Nicole's Table, which takes place at Nicole's home overlooking St. John's Harbour and the Caribbean Sea - a perfect setting to soak in the beauty of the island.

On the menu that day, we had: coconut crisps and plantain chips, sweet potato soup with rum, brown sugar and rum marinated flank steak with onion jam, red beans and rice, plantains, garden salad, and a butter rum cake for dessert. So much food!

We got to help with the cooking, and then halfway through the class, we sat down for a rum tasting with Nicole's husband, Adam, an avid rum collector. Here we got to sample rums from Antigua and around the world, and I must admit, everyone was feeling pretty merry by the end of it!

Shortly after the rum tasting, lunch was served out on the verandah, and we all sat down to enjoy the meal together. The rum and brown sugar steak was a real highlight - I may have gone back for seconds and thirds! - and the rum cake at the end was just the perfect way to cap off a fun afternoon in the kitchen.

For any other foodies out there, Nicole's Table offers a few different cooking classes including "All About Jerk", where you learn the authentic Jamaican way of cooking meat; "Coordinating Curry", which is all about the influence of curry in Caribbean flavours; and "From the Sea", focusing on seafood dishes prepared with the catch of the day.

Attending the Sunday Party at Shirley Heights

We were lucky enough to fly into Antigua on a Sunday, which meant we had to attend the Sunday Barbecue Party at Shirley Heights! I mean, how could we not?

Set in the old military fortifications, this party is one of the longest-running events on the island taking place every Sunday without fail.

People begin to gather at Shirley Heights around 4:00 pm to stake their spot and catch sunset over English Harbour. After dropping our bags off at the hotel and freshening up, we made a beeline to the lookout and arrived just in time for the magic.

The sun was just beginning to dip behind the hills, the whole sky was glowing, and the light bouncing off the water made the harbour look like a mirror. It was as postcard-perfect as it gets.

The mood at the Sunday Part was very lively with a steel band, a mouthwatering barbecue, and plenty of rum punch to go around. There were both tourists and locals in attendance, including many yachties seeing as Antigua Sailing Week was in full swing.

Catching Antigua Sailing Week up close

Speaking of sailing, my time visiting Antigua happened to coincide with Antigua Sailing Week, so of course, I had to catch a bit of the action!

Antigua Sailing Week is a yacht regatta that dates back to 1968. It was started by a group of friends who got together to hold a regatta with the objective of extending the winter season and getting people to stay in Antigua just a little bit longer. Today it's the biggest event on the island drawing participants and spectators from around the world.

One of the best ways to catch the action out at sea is by hopping aboard a catamaran to "chase the race" so I joined an excursion with Wadadli Cats.

We set out from Falmouth Harbour and made our way to the start line to watch the yachts get into position and kick off the race. There was lots of excitement and cheering, as well as strong winds to keep things interesting!

After watching the race in the morning, our catamaran anchored in Carlisle Bay for a few hours. Here we enjoyed a swim in beautiful turquoise waters until we were called back aboard for lunch.

I would have gladly kept swimming all afternoon, but it was time to catch the end of the race and cheer for the last yachts crossing the finish line.

Initially, I had been a bit worried that I wouldn't enjoy this outing because of motion sickness, but I'm so glad I pushed through because it turned out to be one of my favourite activities in Antigua. Yes, there were some strong trade winds, but I took some Gravol, sipped on some ginger ale, and by the time we reached Carlisle Bay all was tranquil again.

Exploring the colours of St. John's

Sam and I didn't want to leave Antigua without exploring the capital, St. John's, so on our last day on the island we arranged a ride into town.

We got dropped off at Heritage Quay which is where the cruises usually dock. This is a lively commercial area where you can pick up souvenirs and also do your duty-free shopping. I'm really not much of a shopper, so we just walked around snapping photos, because if there's one thing that St. John's has, it's plenty of streets filled with bold splashes of colour.

Sadly, a lot of the places that we had been planning to visit were either closed for renovations or closed for the day (it probably didn't help that we were visiting on a Sunday), so that didn't leave us with too much to do in terms of sightseeing, but someone had recommended Big Banana, so we made sure to stop by for some smoothies and super loaded pizzas.

Where to stay when visiting Antigua

And now let's talk about that resort life because when we weren't out and about exploring the island, we were hanging out at the Verandah Resort and Spa, sipping on coconut smoothies, and alternating between the beach and the pool.

Our resort was located on the east side of the island and had these beautiful waterfront suites - picture sliding the balcony door to be greeted with turquoise waters and blue skies every morning! - but my favourite part was their main beach, which was more like a cove with the calmest and most crystalline waters you've ever seen.

We were sad to leave after a week visiting Antigua. Hopefully, it won't take us another 4 years to come back to the Caribbean!

Antigua Travel Tips: How to Plan Your Own Caribbean Getaway

When to Go (Best Time To Visit Antigua)

SeasonTemp / Sea °CRainVibeInsider IntelDec – Apr (High)26 / 27LowSailing regattas, honeymoonersBook 6 + months ahead; Easter sees a Cricket Carnival at Sir Vivian Richards Stadium.May – Jun (Shoulder)28 / 28Short showersQuieter beachesHotels drop 20 – 30 %. Mango trees heavy with fruit – ask for fresh juice, not carton.Jul – Nov (Low)29 / 29Humid + risk of stormsCarnival (late Jul – early Aug)Travel insurance essential. Stormy mornings often clear by lunch = empty coves.

How to Get Around Antigua

Antigua is a relatively small island (about 22 km long and 18 km wide), which means getting around is straightforward, but there are still some decisions to make depending on your style of travel.

Renting a car: If you want maximum freedom, renting a car is the way to go. The island’s main roads are paved, and driving is on the left (thanks, British heritage!), but be ready for a few potholes, unmarked speed bumps, and goats that think they own the road. A 4WD isn’t necessary unless you plan on venturing onto some really rugged backroads, but it does give you peace of mind.

Taxis: Taxis are everywhere, and rates are fixed, but always confirm the fare before hopping in. Most drivers are happy to double as informal tour guides, sharing tips on the best beaches, rum shacks, or lookout points along your route.

Public transport: Minibuses (vans) run between towns and villages, but the schedules are loose and they stop running in the early evening. For quick, affordable travel between St. John’s and other major points, these are a fun local experience, but don’t count on them for exploring hidden beaches.

Tours & transfers: If you’re staying at a resort, you’ll find lots of options for organized excursions—catamaran cruises, historic island tours, and even door-to-door airport transfers are easy to arrange through the hotel front desk.

The Beaches: More Than Just Sand & Sun

If you’re coming to Antigua for the beaches (and honestly, who isn’t?), here are a few highlights:

Dickenson Bay: Famous for soft, white sand and vibrant beach bars. Great for watersports and people-watching.

Half Moon Bay: A crescent-shaped stunner on the east coast, often blissfully empty, with big waves perfect for body surfing.

Valley Church Beach: Calm turquoise water, local BBQ shacks, and the kind of “wow” views that belong on a postcard.

Pigeon Point Beach: Tucked near English Harbour, it’s a favourite for families and yachting crews alike.

Help Choosing “Your” Beach

You Want…Head ToWhy You’ll Love ItFamily-friendly shallowsLong Bay (east)Reef-protected, snorkel with parrotfish 20 m from shore.Cast-away romanceRendezvous Bay (south)45-min dirt-track hike = hardly another soul. Pack a picnic.Watersports centralDickenson Bay (north-west)Jet-skis, Hobie Cats, parasailing plus Shirley Heights sunset shuttle.Instagram-ready pink huesHalf Moon Bay (east)Crushed-coral sand blushes at golden hour.Local Sunday limeFfryes (south-west)Johnny cakes & Red Stripe from Dennis’ Beach Bar, steel-pan echoes.

Exploring Antigua’s History & Culture

Nelson’s Dockyard: A UNESCO World Heritage Site and still-functioning marina in English Harbour, full of historic Georgian-era buildings, museums, and lively cafés. Come for the naval history, stay for the epic sunset views.

Betty’s Hope: The ruins of a 17th-century sugar plantation, complete with restored windmills and informative plaques. It’s a somber but important reminder of the island’s colonial past.

St. John’s Cathedral: With its twin towers and beautiful baroque architecture, this is one of the island’s most recognizable landmarks. Take a stroll around the churchyard for a dose of Antiguan history.

Shirley Heights Lookout: Yes, it’s famous for the Sunday Party, but on a quieter day, it’s a wonderful spot for panoramic views over English and Falmouth Harbours.

Food & Drink: A Taste of the Caribbean

While you’ve already read about my rum-soaked adventures at Nicole’s Table, here are some more must-try culinary experiences:

Fungee and Pepperpot: Antigua’s national dish—cornmeal and okra dumplings (fungee) served with a rich, spicy vegetable and meat stew (pepperpot).

Ducana & Saltfish: Sweet potato dumplings boiled in banana leaves, paired with salted cod. Hearty and delicious!

Conch fritters: Crispy, savoury bites best enjoyed with a tangy dipping sauce.

Pineapple everything: Antigua’s black pineapple is famously sweet—try it fresh, juiced, or in tropical cocktails.

Adventure Activities: Beyond the Sun Lounger

Snorkelling & Diving: The coral reefs off Cades Bay and the wreck of the Andes are favourite underwater playgrounds.

Kayaking & SUP: Many resorts and beach bars rent kayaks and paddleboards—perfect for calm mornings.

Rainforest Zip-lining: Get a birds-eye view of the island’s lush interior.

Hiking: Try the trail up to Mount Obama (formerly Boggy Peak), Antigua’s highest point, for spectacular island vistas.

When to Visit & What to Pack

Antigua is sunny almost year-round, with December to April being peak season for dry, cool weather. May to November is warmer and wetter, but the island is lush and crowds are thinner (just keep an eye on hurricane forecasts).

Packing list musts:

Lightweight, breathable clothing

Swimsuits (bring extras!)

Reef-safe sunscreen

Sunglasses & wide-brim hat

Bug spray for the evenings

A light rain jacket (showers come and go)

Flip-flops and a pair of sandals that can get wet

A reusable water bottle—it’s hot out there!

One-Click Day-Trip Menu

Swim with Stingrays – Stingray City Antigua

5-minute speedboat to a sandbar, waist-deep turquoise water.

Rays are wild but accustomed to humans – guides brief on gentle handling.

Go on the 08:00 slot for fewer boats and glass-flat water.

Island Circumnavigation by 4×4

Companies like Tropical Adventures loop you around Fig Tree Drive’s rainforest, sugar-mill ruins and Betty’s Hope plantation.

Bring small bills for roadside black pineapple (sweetest on earth).

Kayak + Snorkel the North Sound Marine Park

Mangrove channels, upside-down jellyfish gardens, osprey nests.

Combine with a picnic on Great Bird Island – hike 10 min to the top for a 360° panorama.

Sample 7-Night Itinerary Remix

DayAMPMNight1Arrive, rum punch check-inChill at resort coveMoonlit paddle-board session2Half-Moon Bay snorkelSunset at Shirley Heights BBQSteel-band dancing3Cooking class at Nicole’s TableWander St. John’s murals + duty-freeRooftop tapas at Incanto44×4 island safariZip-line through Fig Tree rain-forestMovie under stars at resort5Stingray City encounterKayak North Sound mangrovesSeafood feast at Papa Zouk6Catamaran “Circumnav.” cruiseBeach hop Darkwood & FfryesLive reggae at Sheer Rocks7Spa morning + tennisSouvenir dash (black pineapple hot-sauce)Private beach picnic8Farewell swimAirport via Roadside Goat Water soup stop–

Antigua Travel FAQ: Best Time to Go, Beaches to Pick, Rum & Food, Getting Around, Safety & Sample Week Plan

How long should I spend in Antigua?

A week is perfect: lazy beach mornings + exploratory afternoons (St. John’s color strolls, Nicole’s Table cooking-with-rum, Nelson’s Dockyard, catamaran days). Short on time? 4–5 days still delivers beaches, Shirley Heights Sunday Party, and one boat trip.

When is the best time to visit?

Dec–Apr = breezy, driest, pricier, sailing events. May–Jun = calmer crowds, good rates. Jul–Nov = warm seas, lush hills, occasional storms—watch forecasts and consider travel insurance. Sea temps stay delightfully swimmable year-round.

Which beaches should I choose for my vibe?

Family-calm: Long Bay, Pigeon Point (gentle, reef-protected).

“Cast-away” feel: Rendezvous Bay (hike in, pack a picnic).

Watersports hub: Dickenson Bay (Hobie Cats, parasailing).

Postcard colors: Half Moon Bay (pink-blush sand at golden hour).

Local Sunday lime: Ffryes & Valley Church (BBQ shacks, steel pan).

Is Shirley Heights Sunday Party worth the hype?

Yes—go early (~4 pm) for the English Harbour sunset, stay for steel band, BBQ, and rum punch. It’s the island’s weekly heartbeat; bring small cash, light layer for the breeze, and comfy sandals.

What’s Antigua Sailing Week and can I see it?

A late-April classic since 1968. Even if you’re not racing, you can “chase the race” on a catamaran, then anchor for swims (Carlisle Bay) before cheering finishers. If you get seasick, dose up, sip ginger ale, and pick a morning departure.

What uniquely Antiguan food & drink should I try?

Fungee & Pepperpot (national dish)

Ducana & Saltfish (sweet potato dumplings + cod)

Conch fritters with tangy dip

Black pineapple (ultra-sweet) in juices/cocktails

Rum culture: tastings and butter-rum cake—or a hands-on Nicole’s Table class (we loved it!).

How do I get around—car, taxi, bus, or tours?

Car rental: Max freedom; drive on the left; expect speed bumps/goats; confirm temporary permit.

Taxis: Fixed rates—confirm fare first; many drivers double as friendly guides.

Minibuses: Cheap, fun, informal schedules (daylight hours).

Tours/boat days: Easy via resorts or local operators.

What are the can’t-miss day trips or activities?

Stingray City (waist-deep sandbar, early slot = flat seas)

North Sound kayak + snorkel (mangroves, Great Bird Island view)

Full-island circumnav (catamaran or 4×4)

Nelson’s Dockyard & Shirley Heights history-plus-views combo

Is Antigua good for beginners (snorkelers, paddlers, families)?

Absolutely. Many coves have calm, clear water ideal for SUP, kayaks, and easy snorkels right off the sand. Resorts often include non-motorized gear; mornings are glassiest.

What should I pack?

Light layers, extra swimsuits, reef-safe sunscreen, sun hat/sunnies, bug spray for evenings, flip-flops + water-friendly sandals, a light rain jacket, and a reusable bottle. If boating, add a dry bag and motion-sickness tabs.

Where should I stay—what areas make sense?

East Coast coves (e.g., around Verandah): calm bays, serene vibes.

Dickenson Bay/Northwest: lively bars, watersports, sunset strolls.

English Harbour: yachty scene, Dockyard heritage, Shirley Heights proximity.Aim for beachfront or walk-to-beach to make those sunrise swims effortless.

Sample week: what would a balanced itinerary look like?

Day 1 resort cove + sunset Shirley Heights • Day 2 Half Moon Bay snorkel + St. John’s color walk • Day 3 Nicole’s Table cooking & rum • Day 4 Catamaran “chase the race”/circumnav • Day 5 Stingray City + North Sound kayak • Day 6 Nelson’s Dockyard + English Harbour beach-hop • Day 7 spa morning + slow beach finale.

Have you been to Antigua?What are some of your favourite spots on the island?

This trip was made possible in partnership with Traverse and Antigua & Barbuda Tourism.


Visiting Bratislava, Slovakia: More Than a Day Trip from Vienna!

After a week in Vienna, we continued onward to Bratislava, a city that sits about 1 hour away by train.

For many visitors, Bratislava is just a quick day trip from Vienna, but we wanted to stick around a bit longer so we could sightsee around town, try lots of Slovak dishes, and venture off to some further attractions without feeling too rushed.

In the end, I'm really glad we visited Bratislava for more than just a day because this city has a lot to offer.

Bratislava is charming, walkable, and full of quirky statues to surprise you around each corner.

Technically, yes, you could tick off most of the major attractions in one busy day, but I think this destination is the perfect size for a 2-3 day weekend escape, and in this blog post I'm going to share a few of the highlights.

What to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Bratislava: Your Travel Guide To Slovakia's Capital

Wander the Old Town

One of our favourite things to do in Bratislava was to walk around the Old Town and see what sights we came across. I really liked that there was a nice mix of wide pedestrian streets as well as narrow, little, cobbled lanes.

A few of the attractions we managed to visit include:

St. Martin’s Cathedral - a Gothic cathedral that's been the site of many coronations.

Michael’s Gate - the only city gate that has been preserved in the city.

Old Town Hall - the oldest city hall in Slovakia.

Bratislava Fortifications - the last remaining stretch of the medieval city walls.

Roland Fountain - a fountain topped by Knight Roland, a legendary defender of the city’s rights.

Slovak National Theatre - Opera or ballet, anyone?

Climb up to Bratislava Castle

Of course, while in town, we couldn't miss Bratislava Castle!

Built in the 9th century and modified many times over, this 4-towered castle sits perched on a hill overlooking the Danube River.

It’s a beautiful walk to reach the castle, and while we personally preferred the ruins of Devin Castle outside the city (more on that later), Bratislava Castle is still a cool spot to visit; you get nice views over the Old Town, plus you also have the Slovak National Museum and the Baroque Gardens on the north side.

Visit the Blue Church

It's not every day you come across a church that resembles a wedding cake, but the famous Blue Church reminded me of exactly that!

Located on Bezručova Street, which is about a 10-15 minute walk from the Old Town, this church (whose real name is the Church of St. Elizabeth!) is designed in the art nouveau style with lots of decorations that almost look like icing.

Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited, but we were still able to get a peek through the gates.

Track down all the quirky statues

Another thing we enjoyed about Bratislava were all the unusual statues scattered across the Old Town. It seemed that every time we turned a corner there was another one to catch our attention.

Here are a few to keep an eye out for:

Čumil "The Watcher" - a man looking up from a manhole. Cars kept hitting him so now there's sign that says "man at work".

Shone Naci - a former Bratislava resident who'd wear coattails and a top hat, while greeting and spreading cheer to locals.

The Soldier - a soldier standing guard on a busy square.

Napoleon's Army Soldier - a man leaning over a bench with a typical Napoleon hat.

Hans Christian Andersen - a statue of the famous writer who said of Bratislava, "If you want a fairy tale, your city is a fairy tale itself".

Visit nearby Devin Castle

One of the highlights of our visit to Bratislava was a day trip we took to Devin Castle just outside the city.

This castle is located 10 kilometres from the Old Town and it can be reached on bus #29 in just 30 minutes.

The castle itself sits in ruins, however, you can wander along the medieval walls, climb up to the viewing point, and check out an exhibition in a cave.

The views from the top of the castle are also pretty impressive. Devin Castle sits at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers, so that means you can see Austria right across the river, and on a clear day, as far as Hungary.

Tip: During certain times of the year, there is a river cruise that goes from Bratislava to Devin Castle and back for 13 Euros round trip. You can check the schedule here to see if it coincides with your dates.

Where to eat in Bratislava

And for all you foodies out there, now let's talk about food. Here are some restaurants we really enjoyed in Bratislava:

Modrá Hviezda

For Slovak food in an usual setting, you can't go wrong with Modrá Hviezda!

This restaurant is located at the foot of the hill just as you begin the climb to Bratislava Castle. Half the restaurant is set in a cave, so ask to sit in the back if there's availability. It's super dim and cosy there.

As for the food, it was really tasty. Think hearty dishes with lots of meat on the menu.

I ordered a pork chop covered in crushed walnuts with a honey-mustard sauce and a side of roasted potatoes, and Sam ordered duck leg cooked in a wine sauce with forest mushroom and potato pancakes.

We paired this with a glass of red wine and a local beer.

And as filling as our mains were, we couldn't resist ordering dessert. We went for dumplings with sesame powder and sugar, which was something completely unexpected. The dumplings were more like gnocchi in terms of their shape, but we polished them off in seconds.

Prašná Bašta

For a more traditional restaurant with a local feel, we went to Prašná Bašta, right around the corner from Michael's Gate.

This restaurant is located at split-basement level, so it had a cosy feel with low-vaulted ceilings, a wooden interior, and a few arched windows to let you know whether it was daytime or nighttime outside.

Again, the food here was hearty and we loved it! For our starter we got a pancake stuffed with shredded chicken in a red cream sauce, and that honestly could have been a main dish on its own, but we had more coming.

I went for potato dumplings, which looked like mini-gnocchi covered in sheep’s cheese with crispy bacon, and Sam ordered a potato and zucchini pancake stuffed with pork and beef tenderloin in a paprika sauce.

Needless to say, we left that restaurant feeling rather plump, but oh-so-satisfied!

Mondieu

So technically this place specializes in cakes, pastries and baked goods, but everything we had there was so good we have to mention it.

For my drink, I had a cafe latte macchiato with melted chocolate coating the interior of the glass, and it was so frothy that I felt like I was having a warm milkshake. Absolutely decadent!

I also ordered scrambled eggs with baby spinach and parmesan cheese on brown bread, while Sam ordered a beetroot hummus with pomegranate seeds as well as regular hummus on brown bread. And on top of that, we also got a classic cheesecake with strawberries, raspberries and blueberries to share.This is a good spot if you're craving an international breakfast!

✨ Bratislava: Practical Travel Tips, Unique Experiences & Ways to Go Beyond the Day Trip

If you’re planning your own Bratislava escape (whether as a day trip from Vienna or a dedicated city break), this section is packed with everything you need to plan, enjoy, and get the most out of your time in Slovakia’s capital.

🗺 How to Get to Bratislava (and Why to Stay More Than a Day)

From Vienna:Most travelers arrive from Vienna, just 60km away, and it couldn’t be easier:

Train: Direct trains run every hour from Vienna Hauptbahnhof to Bratislava Hlavná Stanica (Main Station), taking about an hour. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online.

Boat: For something a little different, take the Twin City Liner, a high-speed catamaran along the Danube—beautiful in summer, about 75 minutes each way.

Bus: FlixBus and Slovak Lines connect Vienna and Bratislava frequently, and are often the cheapest option.

From Budapest or Prague:Trains and buses also connect Bratislava to Budapest (about 2.5 hours) and Prague (4 hours), making it a great central stop on a longer Central Europe trip.

Why not rush?While Bratislava can be “done” in a day, spending at least 2–3 days lets you explore at a local pace: wander neighborhoods, relax at a café, sample Slovak wines, and take side trips like Devin Castle or the Little Carpathians.

🚶♀ Itineraries: Day Trip vs. Weekend Escape

Day Trip Highlights (if you must!):

Explore the Old Town, St. Martin’s Cathedral, Michael’s Gate, and quirky statues

Climb up to Bratislava Castle for panoramic views

Visit the Blue Church (peek inside if it’s open)

Sample Slovak food at a local restaurant or grab cake at Mondieu

Weekend or 3-Day Stay:

Everything above, plus:

Visit Devin Castle or take a river cruise

Explore the Petržalka neighborhood for Soviet-era architecture and street art

Attend an opera or ballet at the Slovak National Theatre (tickets are affordable and performances world-class)

Discover the city’s lively café and wine bar scene

Take a walking tour focused on Communism, Jewish Bratislava, or craft beer

🌍 Neighborhoods & Sights: What Not to Miss

Old Town (Staré Mesto)

Get lost in the lanes: The joy of Bratislava is in the wandering—stumble upon secret courtyards, hidden bookshops, and local galleries.

Statues to find: Don’t just snap Čumil—see how many you can spot! Napoleon’s Soldier is perfect for a quirky selfie, and Schöne Náci will greet you with a tip of his hat.

Local tip: Check for pop-up markets or open-air concerts, especially in summer. Hviezdoslav Square often has something going on.

Castle Hill (Hradný Vrch)

Bratislava Castle: Go for the view, stay for the exhibitions. Don’t miss the gardens—free entry and a peaceful break from the crowds.

Views: The walk up reveals the classic red-roofed skyline and sweeping river views; sunset is especially pretty.

The Blue Church & East End

Architecture lovers: The Blue Church is an Art Nouveau dream, but nearby you’ll also find pastel-hued buildings, funky cafes, and street art.

Instagram spot: The front gate, early in the morning before the crowds.

Beyond Old Town

Sad Janka Kráľa Park: One of Europe’s oldest public parks, right across the river in Petržalka. Lovely for a riverside stroll and a break from tourists.

Eurovea Riverfront: Modern Bratislava! Grab a gelato, watch the ships, and check out the city’s shiny side.

Off-the-Beaten-Path

Slavin Memorial: A 1960s Soviet war memorial perched on a hill; the views over Bratislava are stunning and you’ll often have it to yourself.

Kamzík TV Tower: Take a bus or hike up for more panoramic views and a meal in the revolving restaurant (if you’re feeling retro!).

💶 Real‑World Budget (2 people • 3 nights)

Cluster€How we kept it low‑keyLodging156AirBnB studio 60 m from Michael’s Gate, A/C + mini‑kitchenette.Meals & coffee132Two restaurant splurges (Modrá Hviezda + Prašná Bašta), otherwise breakfast at Mondieu + supermarket picnic dinners.Transport & tours48Return train from Vienna, bus to Devin, Old‑Town free walking tour tip.Sights & misc.21Devin €8 pp, Blue Church donation, castle gardens free, two chimney‑cake snacks.Total€357≈ €59 pp / day – Bratislava is still Euro‑friendly!

🚶 48‑Hour “One‑More‑Night” Loop

Day 1 – Orientation & Eats

10:30 Drop bags, grab espresso at Mondieu Panská.

11:00 Free walking tour from Hviezdoslav Square (book via BeFree). Ends 13:30 by the Blue Church.

14:00 Lunch at Prašná Bašta – try bryndzové halušky (sheep‑cheese dumplings).

16:00 Quirky‑statue hunt: locate Čumil, Schöne Náci, Napoleonic Soldier, then rest with €1 gelato on Ventúrska.

18:30 Sunset climb up Národná Banka rooftop bar (free, ID needed) – golden hour over castle.

20:00 Cave‑table dinner at Modrá Hviezda.

22:00 Night stroll on the UFO Bridge walkway for Danube lights.

Day 2 – Castles Duo

08:00 Self‑catered breakfast (Lidl pastries + Slovak jogurt).

09:20 Bus #29 from “Most SNP” to Devin Castle (30 min).

10:00‑12:00 Ruin ramble, Morava–Danube confluence views. Pick up honey‑mead at the gate stall.

13:00 Return, detour into Sad Janka Kráľa park on the Petržalka side for skyline photos.

14:30 Climb Bratislava Castle hill via Beblavého street, explore gardens + courtyard (museum €).

17:00 Late lunch / early dinner at Re:fresh on Ventúrska (craft beer + pulled‑duck burger).

19:00 Classical concert in Primatial Palace (€13 balcony seats – good value!).

21:30 Kapitulská street night shots – eerily empty cobbles under gas lamps.

🏨 Where To Sleep & Alternatives

As for where to stay in Bratislava, I would say, in or around the Old Town is best, so that you can get around on foot. Overall, accommodations are very affordable in Bratislava, so have a browse and see what suits your style and budget.

OptionNightly €ProsConsAirBnB Old‑Town studio5230 sec to Michael’s Gate, kitchenette, A/C3rd‑floor walk‑up, no viewMarrol’s Boutique Hotel110‑140Spa, lavish breakfast, retro decor8‑min walk outside wallsWild Elephants Hostel (party)20 dormSocial, mural art, daily eventsLoud until 2 a.m.Botel Gracia (floating!)70‑90Danube deck, river breezeSmall cabins, bridge traffic hum

🏨 Where to Stay: Neighbourhood Recommendations for Every Traveler

Old Town: Stay central for easy walking access. Charming guesthouses, boutique hotels, and budget hostels all within a stone’s throw of the main sights.

Petržalka: For a glimpse of Bratislava’s Communist past, this district is full of blocky architecture and local cafés—but still just 15 minutes from the center by tram or foot.

Riverside: Modern hotels like Grand Hotel River Park or boutique stays in Eurovea for a splash of luxury with river views.

🍽 Bratislava for Foodies: Eat Like a Local

Traditional Slovak Dishes to Try:

Bryndzové halušky: Potato dumplings with sheep cheese and bacon (the national dish!)

Kapustnica: Hearty sauerkraut soup, especially in winter

Lokše: Potato pancakes, sometimes stuffed with duck or poppy seeds

Zemiakové placky: Crispy potato pancakes—perfect with a local beer

Kofola: The Slovak answer to Coke—a must-try for soda fans

Vegetarian/Vegan: Many modern bistros offer veggie takes on Slovak classics—look for Urban House, Balans Bistro, and Fach.

Markets: The Old Market Hall (Stará Tržnica) hosts farmer’s markets, food festivals, and vintage sales, especially lively on weekends.

Coffee Culture: Bratislava’s café scene is excellent—try Shtoor, Urban House, or enjoy a riverside espresso at Lab.cafe.

🥂 Drinks & Nightlife

Wine bars: Slovakia produces excellent wine (try Frankovka modrá and local Riesling). Urban Wine, Prosekarna, and Vinimka are top picks for tastings.

Craft beer: Bratislava has a growing craft beer scene—visit 100 Piv or the cozy Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar.

Rooftop bars: For city views with your cocktail, check out the Sky Bar or the UFO Observation Deck—sip a drink while hovering above the Danube!

🚴♂ Day Trips & Further Explorations

Devin Castle: Already mentioned, but worth repeating—plan a picnic, bring your camera, and enjoy the river breeze.

Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum: A stunning modern art space on a peninsula south of the city; bike or bus from Bratislava.

Little Carpathians Wine Route: Rent a car or book a wine tour to explore vineyards, medieval towns, and castles just north of the city.

Hiking: The forests around Bratislava are laced with trails—ask at your hotel for a local’s favorite route.

💡 Essential Bratislava Tips & Local Etiquette

Cash & Cards: Most places accept cards, but carry a few Euros for small bakeries and market stalls.

Language: Slovak is the main language, but English is widely spoken in the city center.

Tipping: 5–10% is standard for good service, but not mandatory.

Safety: Bratislava is very safe, but as in any city, keep an eye on your belongings in busy tourist areas.

Bratislava in 2–3 Days: Essential FAQ for Old Town Wanders, Castles, Blue Church & Devin Side-Trips

How long should I spend in Bratislava—day trip or weekend?

While you can blitz the highlights in a day, 2–3 days lets you slow-wander the Old Town, step inside the Münster-like St. Martin’s, climb to Bratislava Castle, hunt quirky statues, and still fit a Devin Castle side-trip, café time, and a show at the Slovak National Theatre.

What are the must-see sights in the Old Town?

Start with St. Martin’s Cathedral, Michael’s Gate, Old Town Hall, the remaining medieval fortifications, and Roland Fountain. Add a meander down Ventúrska and Kapitulská for courtyards, galleries, and that relaxed, lived-in Bratislava feel.

Is Bratislava Castle worth the climb?

Yes—for red-roof panoramas over the Danube, the tidy Baroque Gardens, and museum exhibits. The hill walk is part of the fun; linger at viewpoints on the way up and loop down via Beblavého Street.

How do I visit the Blue Church (St. Elizabeth)?

It’s a 10–15 minute walk east of the Old Town. The Art Nouveau façade is the star; if it’s closed, the exterior alone is worth the detour. Go early for quiet photos at the gate.

What’s the deal with Bratislava’s quirky statues?

They’re sprinkled across the center and make a playful scavenger hunt. Don’t miss Čumil (the man in the manhole), Schöne Náci (top hat gentleman), Napoleon’s Soldier (bench leaner), and The Soldier on the square.

Is Devin Castle an easy day trip?

Very. Bus #29 from Most SNP gets you there in ~30 minutes. Roam the ruins, climb for Danube–Morava confluence views (hello, Austria), and check the seasonal river-cruise schedule if you’d like a boat one way.

Where should I eat traditional Slovak food?

Book Modrá Hviezda (cave-cosy near the castle) for hearty mains and surprising desserts, and Prašná Bašta by Michael’s Gate for classics like bryndzové halušky (sheep-cheese dumplings) and crisp potato pancakes.

Any good breakfast or café picks?

Mondieu does decadent coffees, pastries, and eggs-with-a-twist breakfasts. For a laid-back pause, pick a riverside espresso along Eurovea or a leafy table off the main lanes.

How walkable is Bratislava—and when do I need transit?

The Old Town is compact and best on foot. You’ll only need a tram/bus for outliers (Devin, Kamzík TV Tower) or to hop the river to Petržalka parks and the modern waterfront.

What easy viewpoints should I aim for?

Bratislava Castle terraces, the castle gardens, and Old Town rooftops from Kapitulská at dusk. For river drama, stroll the UFO bridge walkway; for a retro panorama, the Kamzík TV Tower lookout is a fun add-on.

Any simple itineraries for first-timers?

Day 1: Old Town loop → St. Martin’s → statue hunt → Blue Church → Mark for dinner or Mondieu dessert.Day 2: Devin Castle morning → riverfront wander → Bratislava Castle & gardens → traditional dinner and a concert or opera.

Practical tips—cash, Sundays, and etiquette?

Carry a few Euros for bakeries/markets (cards widely accepted otherwise). Many shops nap on Sundays. Greet with a friendly “Dobrý deň,” tip ~5–10% for good service, and watch for cyclists on shared lanes.

🌟 Final Thoughts: Bratislava is Best Savored Slowly

Bratislava has a laid-back charm, a friendly smile and enough on offer to fill a weekend (or more). Whether you come for the castles, linger for the quirky art, or stay for the hearty food and local wine, you’ll discover that Bratislava is much more than a quick detour from Vienna—it’s a destination in its own right.

Have you been to Bratislava?Did you visit on a day trip or stay a bit longer?


Visiting Copacabana: Relaxing in Bolivia’s Hippie Lakeside Town

After three weeks of solid travel in Lima, Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca, Sam and I were beat and ready for a little travel break. The answer to our weariness was Copacabana, and I’m not talking about the famed beach in Rio de Janeiro!
Copacabana is a laid-back little town in Bolivia that sits right on the shores of Lake Titicaca. It has a beautiful harbour, great sunsets, and it’s small enough that you can walk wherever you need to go.
There isn’t a whole lot here in terms of attractions, but that didn’t matter since we were mostly looking to rest. We ended up spending 5 days in this little hippie paradise and this post will highlight some of the things you can get up to if you do decide to visit:
Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Copacabana, Bolivia

Stay in a quirky house on Lake Titicaca
If you’re looking for accommodations unlike any other, I would suggest booking a room at Las Olas like we did. They have a collection of out-of-this-world cottages; some of them are terracotta rondavels with swirling roofs, and others are more like rustic treehouses with floor to ceiling windows.
We had read in our guidebook that these cottages need to be booked well in advance because they’re usually full, but we got lucky being there during the rainy season and we managed to snatch one on the spot! I should also mention that this property has terraced gardens with roaming llamas, a hot tub overlooking the harbour, and plenty of hammocks to lounge on. I almost don't want to admit it, but we spent more time enjoying our funky little cottage than we did exploring the town!
If for some reason Las Olas is booked up, their sister property La Cupula, is also a pretty cool spot right next door. Their construction has a bit of a Santorini feel with white-washed buildings, blue-stained glass accents, and rooftop domes.

Watch a car blessing ceremony
In the town of Copacabana you can get your car blessed. Yes, you read that right.
This is a pretty unusual ceremony that I haven’t encountered anywhere else in the world, and it’s pretty fascinating to watch. The car blessing ceremony takes place just outside the cathedral where a priest walks around spraying holy water on an assortment of minivans, pickup trucks, buses, and cars so that they'll all have safe journeys on Bolivia's perilous roads.
But this isn't just any old blessing; at times this feels more like a party. Just outside the church you’ll find a row of vendors selling trinkets to deck out your car like it’s parading in Carnival. You can buy flowers, confetti, streamers, party hats, and even bottles of sparkling wine…to spray on the cars, not to consume while driving.
This is about as unusual as it gets.

Spend an afternoon on the lake
Copacabana has a really nice harbour and while you couldn’t dare me to dip a toe in the chilly waters of Lake Titicaca, there’s actually a lot you can do in terms of water sports. Sam and I ended up renting a paddle boat that looked like a duck and didn’t steer too well, so it turned into a bit of an adventure.
We saw other people renting kayaks and jet-skis, and there were also these weird cylindrical contraptions that you could run around in much like a hamster ball on the water.

Eat grilled trout at the beach stands
I’m not going to lie to you, the food in Copacabana was pretty sub-standard. The one time we ordered nachos we got a plateful of Doritos with a ketchup based tomato sauce, and then when I tried ordering pasta I got a plate of spaghetti floating in water with a bit of a diluted tomato paste. Not impressed!
While most restaurants failed to tickle my taste buds (we eventually decided to stick to hotel restaurants and that was better), the one dish that did not disappoint was the grilled trout. This is considered to be a bit of a local specialty and it’s fished straight out of Lake Titicaca. The boardwalk is lined with a series of tent-like eateries where you can get a plate of grilled fish with a slice of lemon, and it’s probably the best meal you’ll have in town.

Take a day trip to Isla del Sol
A popular day trip from Copacabana is to Isla del Sol, which translates to “the island of the sun”. The north end of the island is home to some ruins, including: Chincana, Mesa de Sacrificio, and Roca Sagrada (though I didn't find them particularly impressive after seeing some of the ruins on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu).
Isla del Sol also has its own Inca Trail that runs from the north end to the south end of the island. The boat captain will try to tell you that this only takes 2.5 to 3 hours, but don’t believe him!
There are two trails (one that runs by the water and another that weaves through the mountains); if you’re walking up to the ruins and then doing the 8 kilometres across to Yumani using the harder trail, it’ll take you closer to 4 hours. It’s a very steep walk with lots of uphill stretches towards the beginning, and due to the high altitude, I found that I needed to take breaks quite often. We had to hustle in order to reach the opposite end of the island before the boat left, and we only made it with 10 minutes to spare.
Tolls & Accommodation Options
You should also be prepared to pay a series of tolls for using the trails and visiting the ruins along the way (I paid 10 Bolivianos at the first toll, 15 at the second toll, and 5 at the third toll). If you don’t want to walk across the island, you can have the boat pick you up at the first drop off point in Challapampa.
Another option is to spend a night or two in Isla del Sol. The island has a few basic hostels and the beach north of Challapampa is a popular hippie camping spot - expect lots of tents, people braiding hair, and drum and guitar circles.

In retrospect, 5 days may be a bit too long to spend here if you're looking to tick off attractions, however, if you just want to relax and enjoy some pretty epic sunsets over Lake Titicaca, this isn't a bad place to be.

Travel Guide to Making the Most of Copacabana, Bolivia: Tips & Insights

Arriving in Copacabana: Practicalities & First Impressions

Getting There:The majority of travelers arrive by bus, usually coming from La Paz (a stunning ride along the winding highway with dazzling mountain and lake views) or crossing the border from Puno, Peru. The border crossing at Yunguyo is straightforward but can be slow—bring patience, snacks, and your best sense of humour. The final descent into Copacabana gives you that classic first glimpse. Rolling green hills, glinting blue lake, and the red-tiled roofs of town.

First Steps:On arrival, don’t be surprised if you’re greeted by a handful of locals offering hostel rooms, boat rides, or souvenirs. Take your time. The best approach is to walk down the main avenue (Avenida 6 de Agosto) to get your bearings. Everything in Copacabana is walkable, from the bus terminal to the harbour, the cathedral, the market, and back again.

Choosing Where to Stay: More Options for Every Budget

Funky Boutique Hotels & Hippie Hostels:Las Olas and La Cupula get a lot of well-deserved love for their whimsical architecture and killer views. But Copacabana offers more for every taste and budget:

Eco-Lodges & Camping:If you’re keen on sustainability and nature, check out Hostal Joshua or Ecological Hostel Viajero. Some lakeside properties even offer tent camping, with shared fire pits and lake views.

Family-Run Guesthouses:These are dotted around town and offer a real slice of local hospitality—think home-cooked breakfasts, strong Bolivian coffee, and maybe a resident alpaca or two in the garden.

Luxury on a Budget:While “luxury” is relative in Copacabana, a few hotels like Hotel Rosario del Lago have balconies overlooking the water and bathtubs big enough to soak off the altitude.

Tip:Many properties don’t take online bookings—walk around and ask to see a room. Prices often drop if you’re staying a few days or visiting outside of peak season (May–September).

Savouring the Local Flavours: What & Where to Eat

Lake Titicaca Trout:I mentioned the grilled trout at the beach stands (which is a must!). For a different take, try “trucha al ajo” (trout grilled with garlic) or “trucha a la diabla” (spicy trout), sometimes served with golden fries and the ubiquitous Bolivian rice. It’s freshest at the simple, tarp-covered restaurants right on the harbour.

Local Markets & Street Food:The market just off the plaza is the place for cheap empanadas, papas rellenas (potato balls stuffed with cheese or meat), and freshly squeezed orange juice. For breakfast, try api—a hot, sweet purple corn drink paired with fried “buñuelos” (doughnut-like pastries).

Vegetarian & Hippie Cafés:Copacabana’s hippie spirit means you’ll find a handful of vegetarian and vegan spots, like El Condor & The Eagle Café or La Orilla. Expect banana pancakes, fresh smoothies, big salads, and hearty soups, all made with lake views.

Coffee & Cake:Try Café Bistrot for the best coffee in town, or stop at the quirky local bakeries for “torta de tres leches” (milk cake) or “alfajores” (dulce de leche-filled cookies).

Pro Tip:Be patient with service—everything moves a little slower in Copacabana, and “mañana” energy rules. Bring a book, order a local beer or mate de coca, and enjoy the downtime.

Getting Around and Exploring: Walking, Boating, and Beyond

On Foot:Copacabana is built for walking—amble down Avenida 6 de Agosto, meander through the markets, and climb the short but steep path to Cerro Calvario for those legendary sunset views over the lake. The top can be windy, so bring a light jacket and your camera.

Boat Excursions:

Isla del Sol & Isla de la Luna:Isla del Sol is the big draw, but Isla de la Luna (less visited, smaller, and quieter) also offers mysterious ruins and a very local experience. You can arrange a combined boat trip from the harbour; just be sure to double-check the return times.

Sunset Cruises & Paddle Adventures:If you want something unique, look for locals offering sunset cruises—small boats, snacks, and panoramic views as the sky explodes with colour.

Kayaks and Pedal Boats:Available for hire right at the harbour—perfect for a quick, fun spin on the lake. Just don’t expect Olympic-quality equipment.

How Long Should You Stay? ‑ A Sample 3‑Night Flow

DaySunrise‑to‑SiestaLate‑AfternoonGolden‑Hour & EveningDay 1 – “Settle & Stroll”Arrive from Puno or La Paz by tourist coach.Check‑in at Las Olas / La Cúpula (or the equally arty Hostal Joshua if budgets are tight).Walk the malecón, stop at one of the orange‑tarp trout stalls for almuerzo, then flag a moto‑taxi to Cerro Calvario.Scramble the 238 stone steps, light a candle at the last station of the cross, and watch Titicaca turn molten gold.Day 2 – “Island of the Sun”8 a.m. boat to Isla del Sol (north wharf). Optional donkey transfer if altitude hurts.Picnic at Playa Cha’lla and start the ridge trek south (budget 4 h incl. photo stops).Sunset piso‑sour on the Yumani terraces, then last boat back to Copacabana (or splurge on an island homestay).Day 3 – “Culture & Calm”10 a.m. Basilica of Our Lady for the Virgen de la Candelaria shrine. Duck into the back courtyard to watch artisans polish up the next batch of flower garlands.Noon car‑blessing show: choose a vantage by the fountain so you catch the confetti splash zone.Cap the trip with a lakeside bonfire at La Cúpula’s Jardin or live pan‑flute at Café Bistrot 5.

Food Game‑Plan Beyond Trout

DishWhere to Try ItPrice (Bs)Why It’s Worth Your CaloriesQuinua Atamalada (creamy Andean quinoa stew)El Fogón de Los Andinistas, Calle Jáuregui30Local grandmother runs the stove; bowl arrives bubbling in a clay pot.Api con Pastel (purple‑corn cinnamon drink + cheesy fritter)Street cart outside Mercado 2 de Febrero, from 07:006Cheapest altitude cure and sweet breakfast combo.Trucha al Vapor con HuacatayRestaurante La Orilla, malecón45Steamed lake trout under anise‑mint sauce, served with cancha.Helado de Caña (cane‑sugar ice)Plaza kiosk run by Señora Rosmery5Perfect post‑summit reward after Cerro Calvario hike.

Health & Altitude Hacks

Soroche (altitude sickness): hydrate 3 L/day; avoid alcohol first 24 h. Pharmacies sell Sorojchi Pills (aspirin + caffeine).

Sun Punch: UV index hits 12. Broad‑brim hat + SPF 50 mandatory even when cloudy.

Tap Water: not potable. Las Olas offers free refills of filtered. Otherwise buy the 7 L garrafón and decant.

Packing Quick‑List

Fleece + packable down jacket (lakeside wind bites).

Lightweight rain‑shell (afternoon storms Nov‑Mar).

Reusable water bottle + SteriPen if continuing to Uyuni.

Head‑torch (Isla del Sol blackouts).

Stack of 5‑ & 10‑Bs coins for trail tolls, toilets, colectivo returns.

Spare passport photos for any sudden Bolivian visa extensions.

Copacabana, Bolivia — 12-Question FAQ for a Chill Lake Titicaca Escape (Stays, Island Hops, Sunsets & Slow Travel)

1) How do I get to Copacabana?

Most travelers arrive by bus from La Paz or from Puno (Peru) via the Yunguyo border. Expect scenic lake views, a brief border stop (carry passport, small cash, patience), and a short downhill walk from the bus stop to town and the harbour.

2) How many days should I stay?

2–3 nights works for most: one day to settle in and climb Cerro Calvario for sunset, one day for Isla del Sol, and a bonus slow day for lake time, cafés, and the cathedral. If you’re in recovery mode, add a fourth “hammock” day.

3) Where should I stay—and do quirky cottages really exist?

Yes! Iconic hillside spots like Las Olas (whimsical, glassy cottages) and La Cúpula (white-washed domes) are beloved for views and gardens. There are also simple guesthouses and hostels near the plaza/harbour. In shoulder/rainy season you can often walk in and inspect rooms.

4) What’s the famous car-blessing ceremony?

Outside the basilica, owners decorate vehicles with flowers, ribbons and bubbly, then a priest sprinkles holy water for safe travels. It’s equal parts ritual and street-party—colorful and very photogenic. Be respectful around the church steps and participants.

5) Is Isla del Sol worth a day trip—and how long is the hike?

Yes—think blue water, terraced hills, tiny hamlets. Boats typically drop at the north and collect at the south (Yumani). The ridge walk can take 3–4 hours at altitude (there are two routes; the ridge is harder but prettier). Pad your time for photos and breathers.

6) What fees should I expect on Isla del Sol?

Community checkpoints may collect small trail/ruin tolls (carry small Bolivianos like 5s and 10s). Keep the stubs handy—some sectors check again later.

7) What should I eat?

Go straight for grilled trout (trucha) at the simple harbour tents—garlic, lemon, or spicy styles. For snacks, hit the market for empanadas, papas rellenas and fresh orange juice. Vegetarian cafés serve smoothies, soups and pancakes with lake views.

8) How tough is the altitude—and how do I cope?

Copacabana sits around 3,800 m (12,500 ft). Hydrate, take it slow on day one, avoid alcohol/heavy meals, and try coca tea. Nights get cool; pack a fleece, light down/rain shell, and sunscreen (UV is fierce even when cloudy).

9) What lake activities can I do besides boat trips?

Rent pedal boats or kayaks right off the beach for short spins (gear is basic but fun). Sunset cruises are sometimes offered by local skippers—confirm departure/return times and price beforehand.

10) Is Copacabana walkable and safe?

Yes—very walkable. Normal common-sense precautions apply (watch bags in crowds, especially around the market and bus arrivals). Cobbles + hills mean good shoes help, especially for Cerro Calvario.

11) Will I find ATMs and mobile data?

There are ATMs, but they can run out or go offline. Bring a cash buffer. Local SIMs generally work around town; coverage can drop on boats and on parts of Isla del Sol.

12) Any packing must-haves I’ll thank myself for?

Small bills for tolls/tips, headlamp (island overnights/early boats), reusable bottle, tissues/hand gel, hat + SPF 50, and a wind layer for sunset viewpoints. If hiking the island, add snacks and a simple first-aid/altitude kit.

Practical Tips & Final Thoughts

Coping with Altitude:At 3,800 metres above sea level, Copacabana is high. Even if you’ve acclimatized in Cusco or La Paz, take it slow. Drink lots of water, avoid heavy meals your first day, and try coca tea for mild symptoms.

Money Matters:There are ATMs in Copacabana, but they sometimes run out of cash—bring some Bolivianos with you, just in case.

Responsible Travel:Lake Titicaca is a fragile ecosystem—minimize plastic waste, use eco-friendly toiletries, and always pack out your trash, especially if camping on Isla del Sol.

Have you ever been to Copacabana?


Visiting Edinburgh on a Budget: 10 Money-Saving Tips

Edinburgh is a city of sheer beauty; the medieval Old Town is peppered with history and lore, and its cobbled streets, hidden closes and wynds beg to be wandered. The locals are incredibly friendly, the pubs are world-class, and the surrounding natural scenery is mind-bogglingly beautiful.
Its only downfall? Edinburgh isn't the most budget-friendly destination. While some attractions are unavoidably expensive (I'm looking at you, Edinburgh Castle), there are plenty of free museums and historic sites, inexpensive restaurants, and a myriad of outdoor activities to help offset the costs of its pricier attractions.
The following 10 tips will help you stretch your budget, and help you make the most of your time in Scotland's bonnie capital.

1) Walks, Parks and Green Spaces
One of Edinburgh's most appealing qualities is its abundance of parks and natural attractions. There's plenty to see and do outdoors, and all for free!
Princes Street Gardens is a public park located in the centre of the city, running between Old Town and New Town. It's the perfect spot to escape bustling Princes Street or to simply relax in the shadow of the castle.
The view from Calton Hill is arguably the best vantage point in the city, offering panoramic views of Edinburgh's skyline, Arthur's Seat, and the Firth of Forth. Several monuments can be found on Calton Hill as well, including The National Monument of Scotland and the Nelson Monument.
Located in the heart of the city within Holyrood Park lies Arthur's Seat, a dormant volcano and prominent landmark standing at 251 metres. The ascent is relatively easy, albeit rocky at times, and it takes roughly 45 minutes to reach the summit. The walk is worthwhile - the view from the top is stunning, especially with the castle looming in the distance.
The Water of Leith Walkway is a 12-mile river-side walk, winding through the middle of Edinburgh. The best spot to get on the path is at Dean Village - a historical grain-milling hamlet with buildings dating back to the 1800s. From Dean Village, you can follow the path along the river to the vibrant neighbourhood of Stockbridge, which has plenty of charming cafes and bakeries, gourmet eateries, and vintage and boutique shops. (If you're visiting on a Sunday, be sure to peruse the stalls at Stockbridge Market for local produce, tasty food stands, and a variety of hand-crafted goods.)

2) Free Attractions
Edinburgh has plenty to offer in terms of free attractions; visit The National Museum of Scotland for a lesson in Scottish history, or discover the work of Scotland's most famous writers at The Writers' Museum. The Royal Botanic Garden, The Scottish National Gallery, St. Giles Cathedral, and The Scottish Parliament are a few other popular free options.

3) Avoid the month of August
The largest arts festival in the world - The Fringe Festival - takes place over the course of three weeks every year in August, and accommodation prices skyrocket as the city sees a massive influx of visitors. Unless you're planning a visit specifically to coincide with the Fringe Fest (which I would highly recommend, by the way!), avoid this month to save on accommodations, and just about everything else.

4) Getting Around
Edinburgh is an incredibly compact and walkable city, and the best way to explore is by foot - especially since most attractions are located within neighbouring Old Town and New Town.
If you want to utilize public transportation, the buses are convenient and relatively inexpensive; a single ticket costs £1.50, and a day ticket is £4.00, which also includes unlimited travel on the trams. If you're planning to use transport for a number of days, be sure to look into the weekly passes to save money.
The Airlink bus continually runs between the airport and the city centre, and the cost is £4.50 for a single ticket.

5) Alternative Accommodation Options
Edinburgh has its fair share of moderately priced accommodations; hostel dorm rooms start around £20 pounds per night, and budget hotels like Cityroomz and Motel One average about £80 per night. If you're really looking to cut down on accommodation costs, consider alternative options like Airbnb or HomeAway, where you can rent a cheap room from locals. The University of Edinburgh offers student dormitories of various sizes and types at Pollock Halls for reasonable prices during the summer months, as well.

6) Cheap Eats
Dining out in Edinburgh can easily drain your wallet, but there are plenty of budget-friendly restaurants to choose from.
If you're looking for a grab and go-style meal for less than 5 pounds in Edinburgh's Old Town, head to Oink for a simple yet delicious roast pork roll, The Piemaker for hearty meat or veggie pies, or The Baked Potato Shop for massive baked potatoes topped with a variety of hot or cold fillings.
For lunch or dinner, try Mosque Kitchen - a no-frills restaurant known for its cheap and authentic Indian food - where a plate of curry, rice, and naan bread will only set you back about £7. Ting Thai Caravan is another option for fantastic and cheap Thai food; the Pad Thai is delicious and costs less than £10. For Scottish cuisine, Mum's is a great choice for haggis and other classic comfort foods, or try The Dogs: a gastropub featuring traditional Scottish food with a contemporary twist.

7) Cheap(er) Drinks
Visiting one of the city's historic pubs is a must-do when visiting Edinburgh, but pints and cocktails don't always come cheap. Check out some of the following bars and pubs for slightly cheaper pints, or mixed drink and cocktail specials.
In New Town, Lucky Liquor offers a £5 beer & bourbon deal, The Basement has an array of inventive cocktails starting at £5.50, and restaurant and bar Sygn in Edinburgh's West End has a fair selection of cocktails for £5 as well. Amongst the dozen or so pubs on Rose Street, head to The Black Cat for reasonably priced pints, and live music every Monday and Wednesday.
In Old Town, you'll find Sandy Bell's: a folk bar with traditional music sessions every night of the week, and pints starting around £3.50. Part of the infamous underground vaults are located within Banshee Labyrinth - which is said to be one of Edinburgh's most haunted bars - and many of their mixed drinks and pints cost less than £4. The Hanging Bat is a craft beer bar with an in-house brewery; the lengthy menu includes local and international bottled and draught beer, with the average schooner hovering around the £5 mark.

8) Avoid Taxis
Taxis in Edinburgh are very expensive, so I'd recommend avoiding them at all costs if you're on a strict budget. If you happen to find yourself without any other option, Uber has recently launched in Edinburgh and is slightly cheaper than regular cabs.

9) Inexpensive and Worthwhile Tours
Discover the dark side of Edinburgh's history on an Underground Vault Tour (£9). This series of tunnels hidden beneath Old Town once housed everything from serial killers to malevolent spirits, witches and infamous criminals - to name a few.
Whisky may be the drink of choice for most visitors, but it isn't the only spirit worth sampling. The Edinburgh Gin Distillery offers a Gin Discovery Tour (£10), where you can learn the history behind Edinburgh Gin, tour the distillery, and sample their acclaimed gin.
The Free Walking Tour covers the main sights in Edinburgh's winding Old Town, and delves into the city's fascinating history, with plenty of tales, legends, and ghost stories thrown in for good measure. It's a tip-based tour, so it's technically not free, but still a great value.
Climb to the top of St. Giles Cathedral on their Rooftop Tour, which provides a beautifully unique view overlooking the Royal Mile (£6).

10) Sample the National Drink for Less
If you're a scotch connoisseur, you might want to book a tour at The Scotch Whisky Experience, but if the £14.50 price tag puts you off, or if you just want a wee taste of Scotland's national drink, head to one of the best whisky bars in the city instead. Bow Bar has a dizzying array of single malts on offer (over 300, to be precise), and Whiski Rooms boasts a combined restaurant, bar, and specialist whisky shop.

Do you have any other tips for visiting Edinburgh on a budget?

Budget Beyond the Basics: Smarter Ways to See Edinburgh (and Spend Less)

Edinburgh rewards the slow wanderer and the savvy planner. Ready? Let’s make your bank account as happy as your camera roll.

Where to Stay for Less (Without Sacrificing Charm)

If you’re not precious about sleeping on the Royal Mile, you can get far better value a few streets—or a few stops—away. Leith has creative energy and great dining at lower prices. Haymarket and Dalry offer fast tram/train links. Tollcross and Bruntsfield feel neighborhood-y yet walkable to the Old Town. Stockbridge is village-cute without New Town hotel rates.

Look at Leith, Dalry/Haymarket, Tollcross/Bruntsfield, and Stockbridge for value + vibes.

In July–September, check University of Edinburgh residences (Pollock Halls, etc.).

Weeknights are cheaper than Fridays/Saturdays—shift your weekend if possible.

Prioritize places with a kitchenette and a washing machine to cut meal/laundry costs.

If you have points, chain hotels on Princes Street often run quiet-season promos.

Neighborhoods That Stretch Your Budget

Experience TypeTypical Nightly £ (2p)Walk to Old TownWhy Pick ItLeith (Shore)70–12035–45 min (15–20 by bus)Waterfront walks, food scene, lower ratesHaymarket/Dalry80–14020–25 min (tram access)Transport hub, easy airport linkTollcross/Bruntsfield90–14015–20 minCafés, Meadows park, local feelStockbridge100–15020–25 minVillage charm, Botanic Garden nearbyOld/New Town (central)140–250+You’re therePay more for location/convenience

A Free-Heavy Two-Day Plan (Walk, Wonder, Repeat)

The best budget days in Edinburgh are mostly outdoors with a few targeted, free museums for variety. Day 1 focuses on Old Town’s texture: wynds and closes, kirkyards, and rooftops; Day 2 shifts green and leafy with a riverside ramble and a seaside sunset.

Day 1: Royal Mile amble → St. Giles (free) → Advocates Close viewpoint → National Museum of Scotland (free) → Greyfriars Kirkyard → Meadows picnic → Golden-hour Calton Hill.

Day 2: Dean Village → Water of Leith to Stockbridge Market (Sun) → Royal Botanic Garden (free grounds) → New Town crescents → Portobello Beach for fish & chips and sunset.

Use museum cafés for affordable soup/tea and clean facilities (a very real perk).

Pop into free gallery gems (The Fruitmarket Gallery; City Art Centre paid shows vary).

Carry a picnic kit: supermarket meal deal + park bench = prime-view lunch for pennies.

At-a-Glance: 2-Day Free-Forward Route

DayMorningMiddayAfternoonSunset Spot1Royal Mile stroll, St. GilesNat’l Museum (free), GreyfriarsMeadows picnic + wanderCalton Hill panoramas2Dean Village photosWater of Leith → StockbridgeRoyal Botanic Garden (free)Portobello Beach

Eat Well, Spend Little (Canny Food & Coffee Swaps)

Edinburgh can be pricey at dinner. Flip the script. Make lunch your main meal. Loads of places run weekday lunch specials, and supermarkets do generous meal deals (sandwich/salad + snack + drink) for the cost of a single café latte.

Target lunch specials (Mon–Fri) for sit-down value; go lighter at dinner.

Grab meal deals at Tesco/Sainsbury’s/Co-op for park picnics.

Share pub mains (portions are generous); add an extra side if needed.

Look for “early evening” menus (17:00–18:30) at mid-range restaurants.

Save on caffeine: order an Americano or a pot of tea—refills stretch the spend.

Budget Bites Cheat Sheet

Food FixPrice BandWhereInsider TipSupermarket meal deal£3.50–£5.50Tesco/Sainsbury’s/Co-opUpgrade to “premium” sandwich for better valueBakery breakfast£2–£5Greggs, Soderberg, local bakeriesHot roll + coffee beats sit-down brunch pricesPub lunch special£7–£12CitywideAsk for the day’s pie/soup comboEthnic eats£7–£12Mosque Kitchen, Ting Thai, El Cartel (tacos)Share plates to taste more, spend lessCoffee/tea£2–£3.50Independent cafésReusable cup discounts at some spots

Transport Wins (Walkers Rule, but Capping Helps)

Edinburgh is happily compact. If you do hop on public transport, Lothian Buses and Trams use contactless capping: tap your card/phone and your fares automatically cap at the day rate, so there’s no penalty for multiple rides.

Walk Old/New Town; bus/tram for Leith, Portobello, or late nights.

Tap contactless—daily capping means no need to pre-buy day tickets.

Airlink 100 is the budget airport MVP; trams shine if you’re near a stop with luggage.

Night buses run after midnight on key routes (check N-numbers).

Plan hills smartly: downhill into New Town, uphill only once a day if you can help it.

Getting Around for Less

ModeTypical SingleBest ForNotesWalkingFreeOld/New Town sightsCobblestones = sturdy shoesLothian bus~£2 single (caps daily)Across neighborhoodsTap in only; capping appliesTram~£2–£7 (airport)Airport, West End, Leith WalkBuy at platform or tap; no bus tickets onboardAirlink 100~£5 one-wayAirport ↔ CityEarly/late departures, luggage racksNight busSlightly higherAfter midnightCheck schedules; exact fare/contactless

Festival Season on a Budget (If You Can’t Avoid August)

If your dates collide with the Fringe, you can still have an incredible—and wallet-friendly—time with a bit of strategy. Preview week (late July/very early August) is cheaper and less crowded, and the Free Fringe scene offers pay-what-you-feel shows that run all day and late into the night (please tip!). The Royal Mile’s street stages are nonstop, free entertainment.

Aim for preview days; prices and lines are gentler.

Build a schedule mix: 1–2 ticketed must-sees + Free Fringe gems.

Stay in Leith/Dalry; ride the bus in—it’s painless and cheap.

Pack snacks and a refillable bottle; food queues spike before showtimes.

See big venues daytime; wander small rooms late night for discoveries.

Fringe Tactics That Save ££

TacticWhy It HelpsWhen to UseBonusPreview weekLower prices/queuesLate July–early AugCatch artists fine-tuning showsFree FringePay-what-you-feelDailyTip £5–£10 for great setsMatineesCheaper seatsWeekdaysBetter availabilityOuter neighborhoodsCheaper staysWhole monthQuieter nights, easy busesStreet stagesFree varietyAfternoonBuild your list of acts to see later

Low-Cost Day Trips (Big Scenery, Small Price Tags)

You don’t need a car to escape the city. Edinburgh’s train and bus web gets you to castles, coast, and quaint towns in under an hour.

Stirling: Old town lanes + castle + Wallace Monument views.

North Berwick: Beaches, seabird centre, hill walk up The Law.

Linlithgow: Palace ruins right on the water, swans, easy loop walk.

South Queensferry: Bridges, coastal path, photogenic high street.

Check ScotRail for off-peak return fares; Lothian Country buses cover Queensferry.

Easy Day Trips from Waverley

DestinationTravel TimeWhy GoBudget TipStirling~45 min trainCastle + old town charmOff-peak return mid-morningNorth Berwick~35 min trainBeach + seabirdsBYO picnic, seaside benchesLinlithgow~20 min trainLoch-side palaceWalk the loch path for freeSouth Queensferry~25–40 min bus/trainForth Bridge viewsFree coastal strolls

Sample Daily Budgets & What They Actually Buy

Prices fluctuate, but having a target helps you choose where to splurge and where to save. The “Shoestring” plan leans on meal deals, free sights, and buses only when needed. The “Value” plan adds a pub lunch, a paid attraction every other day, and a couple of coffees you don’t have to justify.

Put your big spend where it matters to you: a castle ticket, a whisky tasting, or a guided tour.

Balance sit-down meals with picnics and bakery staples.

Cap transport with contactless; walk the rest.

Keep a small “treat fund” for serendipitous buskers, pop-up shows, and irresistible pastries.

Track cash outlay once a day to stay honest with your goals.

Two Budget Templates (Per Person, Per Day)

CategoryShoestring (~£35–£45)Value (~£55–£75)NotesBreakfast£3 bakery/coffee£6 café setApartment breakfast = biggest savingsLunch£4–£6 meal deal£10–£12 pub lunchSwap if dinner is your main mealDinner£10–£14 simple eatery£15–£22 mid-range early eveningShare plates to taste moreCoffee/Tea/Snacks£3–£5£6–£9Refill water, carry snacksTransport£0–£4 (walk/bus cap)£0–£5Capping keeps costs in checkAttractionsFree£10–£20 (avg. 1 every other day)Many museums/churches = £0Total£35–£45£55–£75Add accommodation separately

Little Freebies Locals Rely On (They Add Up!)

There are tiny Edinburgh habits that make days smoother and cheaper. Tap water is free and good. Museums have clean loos. Church doorways hide quiet, rain-proof spots to regroup. The Meadows or Princes Street Gardens make perfect “living rooms” between sights.

Fill bottles at museum taps; ask cafés politely if they can refill.

Use public/venue restrooms to avoid “forced coffee” stops.

Carry a compact picnic blanket—parks are your best dining room.

Choose light souvenirs: flat, packable, and meaningful (bookmarks, prints).

Check for concessions/locals’ days at paid sights.

Free & Nearly-Free Helpers

NeedFree/Low-Cost FixWhereWhy It MattersWaterTap refillsMuseums/cafésCuts drink spend, eco-friendlyRestroomsPublic/venue loosGalleries, stationsSaves “mandatory purchase” penniesShelterCovered closes/church porchesOld TownRain breaks without café billsRest spotParks/benchesMeadows, Princes St. GardensPicnic + people-watchingStorageStation lockers/partner cafésWaverley areaCheaper than lingering

Visiting Edinburgh on a Budget: 12-Question FAQ (Smart, Practical & Money-Saving)

1) When’s the cheapest time to visit?

Late autumn to early spring (Nov–Mar)—excluding Christmas/Hogmanay—brings lower hotel rates and fewer crowds. Aim for mid-week stays and avoid August (Fringe) unless you’re coming for the festivals.

2) What are the best free things to do?

Royal Mile wanders + hidden closes

St. Giles’ Cathedral, National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery

Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat viewpoints

Princes Street Gardens, The Meadows, Water of Leith (Dean Village → Stockbridge)

Royal Botanic Garden grounds (free)

3) How do I get around cheaply?

Edinburgh is walkable. For longer hops, tap a contactless card/phone on Lothian Buses/Trams—you’ll hit a daily cap automatically. The Airlink 100 bus is the budget airport link.

4) Where should I stay for value?

Look just beyond the Royal Mile:

Haymarket/Dalry (great transport), Leith (food scene), Tollcross/Bruntsfield (near The Meadows), Stockbridge (village feel).Check university rooms in summer and apartments with kitchenettes to cut meal costs.

5) Can I do Edinburgh well on £50–£75/day (excluding lodging)?

Yes. Make lunch your main meal (weekday specials), mix free sights with one paid attraction every other day, and use capped transit or walk.

6) What are solid cheap eats near the sights?

Old Town: Oink (hog rolls), The Piemaker (pies), Mosque Kitchen (curry plates), Ting Thai (Thai bowls)

New Town/Leith: bakeries, supermarkets for meal deals and park picnicsShare pub mains; look for early-evening menus (5–6:30 pm).

7) How do I keep pub and café costs down?

Order cask/house beers, look for weeknight deals, and choose Americano/tea over specialty coffees. Bring a refillable bottle—tap water is excellent.

8) Which iconic views are free (or nearly)?

Calton Hill (golden hour), Arthur’s Seat (sunrise), Vennel viewpoint (Castle), Advocates Close (Old Town rooftops), Nelson Monument base (panoramas). Many church towers have low-cost rooftop tours (e.g., St. Giles’).

9) How can I “do” the festivals on a budget?

Hit preview week, blend 1–2 ticketed must-sees with Free Fringe shows (tip the performers), stay in Leith/Haymarket, and picnic between venues to skip peak-price bites.

10) Best budget tours?

Free walking tours (tip-based)

Underground vaults (~budget options available)

Gin/whisky tastings—often cheaper at bars with knowledgeable staff than full attractions.

11) Are day trips doable without a car?

Yes:Stirling (castle/old town), North Berwick (beach, The Law), Linlithgow (loch-side palace), South Queensferry (Forth Bridge views). Use off-peak ScotRail returns or local buses.

12) Any quick budget habits locals use?

Carry a picnic kit (meal deal + park bench)

Use museum cafés for affordable soups/tea and clean loos

Walk downhill into New Town; plan one uphill per day

Keep a small “treat fund” for irresistible pastries/buskers—you’ll be happier sticking to the rest of your budget


Visiting El Tatio Geysers at Sunrise in the Atacama Desert in Chile

I was really looking forward to visiting the El Tatio Geysers in the Atacama Desert!
Despite having lived and travelled in South America, Chile was a country that I had only ever flown through, and then a few years ago Sam showed me some pictures from his trip to San Pedro de Atacama and I was sold - I wanted to visit this arid landscape dotted with volcanoes and lagoons. It looked out of this world!
When we finally reached the town of San Pedro on this trip, we were overwhelmed with the number of excursions available, but we ended up choosing the sunrise tour of El Tatio geysers complete with a pancake breakfast! It turned out to be a great experience and now we're going to share it with you.

Visiting El Tatio Geysers
El Tatio is a geyser field that sits at 4,320 meters above sea level and it has over 80 geysers scattered around the area. That makes El Tatio the highest geyser field in the entire world, as well as the third largest based on the number of active geysers.
Our morning started bright and early (a little too early if you ask me), with a 5:00 a.m pick-up. I couldn’t tell you much about the drive out to the geyser field  since I was napping in the truck, but then again it was pitch black out so I doubt I missed much.
What I can tell you is that on the drive over we had individual fleece blankets to keep warm, and I was more than happy to be able to extend my sleep time by a few more hours. By the time we pulled into the park, the sun was just starting to peek over the mountains and we had a pretty cool scene before us.
So why were we up so early? Well, the reason for the early visit to El Tatio has to do with temperature. If you go there in the early morning just shortly after sunrise, the temperature usually hovers around the freezing mark, while the heat rising from some of the fumaroles can reach 85° Celsius. That's when you get really cool towers of steam rising up into the sky, creating a scene that looks a little bit like an inferno.
We had some time to walk around the geysers and soak in this other worldly scene. It was cool seeing giant bursts of water shooting into the air, bubbles gurgling just below the surface of some of the lagoons, and little clouds of steam rising from open pockets in the earth - the latter was a nice way to warm up our frozen fingers.

A dip in the Hot Springs
After walking around the geyser field and having fun taking some Dantesque photos, we headed over to the nearby hot springs, where we had the chance to enjoy a hot soak while breakfast was made.
I’d like to say I hopped right in, but I was still wrapped up in my blanket thawing from the early morning walk, and there was no way I was changing into a bikini and braving the cold for those few brief seconds while I tip-toed from the change rooms to the hot springs.
So I sat it out and watched Sam go in instead. Can you spot him in the picture? It's like Where's Waldo.

Breakfast of champions
And now for one of the highlights: breakfast!
I have to say, our breakfast with Grado 10 was the best of any other tour out there. While other groups had little coffee stations with a few rolls of bread and cookies, our driver-turned-chef and guide-turned-gourmand pulled out all the stops.
Between the two of them they managed to cook up pancakes and grilled ham and cheese sandwiches in the middle of the altiplano, and they didn't just serve one round, the food kept coming. They also had pound cake, giant bowls of dulce de leche to spread out on just about everything on the table, and lots of juice, coffee and tea. I was a very happy girl! So happy in fact that I forgot to photograph our delicious breakfast because I was too busy eating.

Soaking in the views
After breakfast we packed up the truck and made a few scenic stops along the way. One of them was this green canyon. There's a trickle of a river that runs through this dry gorge and apparently that's enough for this little oasis to exist. Once we drove further down the valley and got closer to the base of the canyon we were able to see just how lush it is and how much wildlife it holds.
From there we made another stop at Bado Putano, which is a wetland where lots of guanaco roam, and we also had the Putana Volcano towering in the distance.

A visit to Machuca
Our last stop of the day was the village of Machuca. The village is divided into two parts: the ruins which are over 1000 years old and the newer area which still adheres to traditional construction.
We had some free time to explore, so I walked up to the church for some nice panoramic views of the town while others snacked on llama skewers (pretty tasty, but I was still full from breakfast).
The village is quite small, has one street, and holds no more than 20 buildings, so you'll easily cover it with a 30 minute visit.

And then it was time to drive back to San Pedro. By the time we hopped back in the truck it was past noon and everyone had already peeled off all the warm layers they had been sporting that morning. It's fascinating how quickly the temperatures in the desert can change! Now here's a little video Sam and I made on the trip:

Tips for visiting El Tatio Geysers at sunrise:

Wear your warmest layers. Mornings in the town of San Pedro aren't that cold during the summer months, but don't let that fool you; El Tatio will be freezing. I wore leggings, an alpaca sweater, a windbreaker, and I borrowed a fleece blanket from the truck, and I was still cold.
Pack a swimsuit and a towel. If you'd like to go for a dip in the hot springs (we got about 45 minutes there), definitely pack a suit and a towel. There are dressing rooms on site, but don't expect towel rentals.
Bring lots of water. It's easy to underestimate just how much water you'll be guzzling in the desert. Our tour guide recommended bringing at least a 1 Litre bottle, and you'll easily get through that in half a day.

El Tatio Sunrise Planner: Everything You Need to Know (and a Little More!)

Why Sunrise Is the Sweet Spot

El Tatio sits at 4,320 m (14,173 ft). Its where dawn temps flirt with freezing while vents and fumaroles pulse with heat. That dramatic temperature contrast is why sunrise is the star of the show: cooler air + hot steam = towering plumes and an almost theatrical scene. Go later and you’ll still get geysers, but you’ll lose the height and drama of those early-morning steam columns.

Best light: From first glow until ~45 minutes after sunrise.

Biggest plumes: Right around sunrise, while air is coldest.

Bonus: After the sun clears the ridges, you get easier shooting (less contrast) and warmer fingers.

How to Visit: Tour vs. DIY (What Fits Your Travel Style?)

OptionBest ForWhat’s IncludedProsConsSmall-Group TourFirst-timers, social travelersTransport, guide, basic breakfast (some go gourmet!), park logisticsStress-free, guides know the safe paths and best anglesFixed timelines, more people at each stopPrivate TourPhotographers, families, slow travelersEverything above, plus schedule flexibilityCustomize pace, linger longer, fewer crowd bottlenecksHigher price point; book aheadSelf-DriveConfident drivers comfortable with altitude & unpaved roadsVehicle rental, your snacks/gearFull control over timing and stopsPre-dawn driving in cold; verify road/park hours; watch fuel

Sample Sunrise Timeline (What Your Morning Might Look Like)

04:30–05:00 – Pickup in San Pedro de Atacama (or wheels rolling if self-driving).

05:00–06:00 – Drive to the field (nap + blanket time).

~06:15 – Park entry + brief safety talk.

06:20–07:15 – Sunrise walk among fumaroles and geysers (aka “where you turn into an enthusiastic puff of steam yourself”).

07:15–08:00 – Hot spring dip (optional) + breakfast (pancakes if you luck out!).

08:15–10:30 – Scenic stops on the way back (wetlands, canyons, wildlife).

11:00–12:00 – Return to San Pedro (layers off, appetite back on).

What to Pack: The Do-Not-Forget Lists

Cold-Dawn Essentials

Insulated jacket (down or synthetic) + windproof shell

Thermal base layer (top & bottoms)

Warm hat + buff/neck gaiter (great sand shield)

Gloves (liner gloves are better than numb fingers)

Wool socks + closed shoes with grip

Desert & Hot Springs Kit

Swimsuit + compact towel (microfiber dries fast)

Flip-flops or slip-ons for the pool edge (ground is cold!)

1–1.5 L water per person (minimum)

SPF sunscreen + lip balm with SPF (yes, even at dawn)

Sunglasses (once sun is up)

Nice-to-Haves

Headlamp (for pre-dawn walking and the change rooms)

Snacks (salty is your friend at altitude)

Hand warmers (pocket miracles)

Small first-aid kit (basic meds, blister care)

Cash (tips, park odds and ends)

Photo/Video (Keep It Light)

One versatile lens (24–70mm does it all)

Extra battery (cold eats charge) & microfiber cloth

Mini tripod (for steam + silhouettes)

Phone with RAW/HDR enabled (great backup)

What to Wear by Season (Atacama Style, Layered)

Summer (Dec–Feb): Cold dawn → mild morning. Thermals + fleece + shell, lightweight pants (you can peel layers by the drive back).

Shoulder (Mar–May & Sep–Nov): Similar to summer, slightly cooler mornings; keep the wind layer handy.

Winter (Jun–Aug): Coldest pre-dawn. Thermals + midlayer + puffy + shell, warm beanie, proper gloves.

Altitude & Health: Feel Good at 4,320 m

You’ll likely feel short of breath sooner, and you may get a light headache. Take it easy and listen to your body.

Altitude-Savvy Habits

Hydrate (small sips often).

Skip booze the night before (we know, we know).

Snack smart (bananas, nuts, crackers).

Move slowly—no sprinting for a photo (tempting, we get it).

Rest if woozy; tell your guide if symptoms escalate.

Mild vs. Red-Flag Symptoms

Mild/expected: Headache, slight nausea, breathlessness on exertion.

Red flags: Persistent vomiting, confusion, chest tightness, severe headache. If these pop up, alert your guide immediately.

Hot Spring Know-How: From Brrr to Bliss

Change room reality: Basic. Bring your own towel and headlamp.

“The dash”: Wear your suit under thermals; quick-change into flip-flops and walk, don’t run (stone is wet).

Jewelry + glasses: Steam fogs everything. Leave valuables in your bag.

Post-soak: Dry off fully and layer up fast; the air is chilly.

Safety & Etiquette in the Geyser Field

Stay on paths—ground can be thin and brittle near vents.

Mind the wind. A sudden gust can push hot vapor your way.

Give vents space. Your face will thank you.

Respect quiet hours. This is nature’s show, not a stadium.

Photography Tips: Steam, Sun, and Silhouettes

Timing & Angles

Backlight the steam at sunrise for dramatic columns.

Side-light for textures on mineral crusts and ripples.

Include scale—a (distant) human or a tripod shape adds impact.

Phone Settings

Turn on grid.

Tap to expose for highlights (steam edge).

Use HDR or RAW if available.

Prop your phone on a rock for sharp low-light shots.

Camera Settings (Starting Points)

Golden hour: ISO 100–200, f/8–f/11, adjust shutter to taste.

Blue hour/steam silhouettes: Tripod, ISO 200–400, f/4–f/5.6, 1/30–1/125s.

Anti-fog care: Keep gear bag closed until ready; warm it gradually after the cold.

Wildlife & Landscapes on the Way Back (Keep Your Eyes Peeled)

Vicuñas & guanacos grazing the wetlands.

Andean geese and small waders along streams.

Putana Volcano looming like a postcard backdrop.

Green ribbons of vegetation along canyon trickles—little oases in a moon-scape.

Responsible Travel: Leave No Trace in the Altiplano

Pack out everything—even tiny wrappers.

Stay on durable surfaces (no crust-crunching).

No drones (protected area; wildlife spook easily).

Keep quiet near wildlife and other visitors.

Take only photos (salt crystals are not souvenirs, tempting as they are).

Pair It With: Build a Dream Atacama Day or Two

Sunrise El Tatio + Sunset Valle de la Luna: Classic double-hitter (nap in between is non-negotiable).

Lagoons Day: Laguna Cejar or Baltinache float in the morning, easy afternoon, then a low-key dinner.

Culture & Viewpoints: Quitor Pukará, Tulor Village, stroll San Pedro’s adobe lanes and cafes.

Budget Snapshot (Per Person, Rough Ranges)

Small-group tour: $$ (transport, guide, simple breakfast; gourmet costs a touch more)

Private tour: $$$–$$$$ (flexible timing, fewer people)

Self-drive: $$ (rental + fuel + park entry + your snacks)

Extras: Towel, tips, post-tour second breakfast (highly recommended)

El Tatio Geysers Trip: FAQ

How cold is it at sunrise?

Expect it to hover around freezing at dawn, even in summer. With wind chill, it can feel colder. Dress in layers and keep a warm hat and gloves handy.

Do I need to acclimatize before visiting?

If you’ve just arrived in San Pedro, you may feel the altitude more. A day or two in town (2,400 m) helps. Hydrate, avoid alcohol the night before, and take it slow at the field.

Can I swim in the hot springs and still stay warm?

Yes—if you plan the transitions. Wear your suit under layers, bring a microfiber towel, and bundle up immediately after your soak. Flip-flops spare your feet from the cold stone.

Is the geyser field safe to walk around?

Yes, on marked paths. The ground near vents is fragile and sometimes thin. Follow your guide’s route and don’t cross safety ropes for a selfie.

Are drones allowed at El Tatio?

No. Drones are typically prohibited to protect wildlife and ensure visitor safety. Rangers do patrol.

What kind of breakfast should I expect?

Tours vary. Some offer simple coffee/tea + bread, others go all in with pancakes and grilled sandwiches. If breakfast matters to you (we get it!), ask your operator in advance.

Can I do El Tatio by myself without a tour?

You can, provided you’re comfortable driving pre-dawn on cold, potentially frosty roads and you’ve confirmed park hours. Bring extra water, warm layers, lights, and a full tank.

What footwear is best for the geyser field?

Closed shoes with decent grip (trail runners or light hikers). The ground is uneven, sometimes damp/icy. Save the sandals for the hot springs edge.

Will my camera fog up or get damaged by steam?

It can. Keep gear tucked away until ready, avoid breathing onto cold glass, and wipe gently with a microfiber cloth. Don’t lean into vents—mineral-laden steam isn’t camera-friendly.

What wildlife might I see on the way back?

Common sightings include vicuñas/guanacos, Andean geese, and small wading birds along wetlands. Morning light is beautiful for wildlife—give them space.

Is there anywhere to buy food or water near El Tatio?

Treat the field as bring-everything-you-need country. Tours provide breakfast; otherwise pack your own. You’ll find shops and cafes back in San Pedro.

What else should I combine with El Tatio on the same day?

Keep it light: a leisurely lunch, a siesta, and maybe a short town stroll or sunset viewpoint. If you want a big double-feature, pair it with Valley of the Moon sunset—just rest in between.

Have you visited El Tatio Geysers?Are there any other trips around the Atacama Desert you'd recommend?