Cape Peninsula Sidecar Tour: Cape Town to Cape of Good Hope

On our first trip to Cape Town, South Africa back in 2015, Sam and I explored the Cape Peninsula on a bike tour. While it was a nice outing thanks to our upbeat guide, the weather did not cooperate and the scenery was marred by fog, rain and grey skies; so when we were planning our most recent visit to Cape Town, we knew we wanted to do a Cape Peninsula tour again.
For this day trip, we teamed up with TripAdvisor who invited us to experience their offerings. We’ve been using TripAdvisor for years, mostly on our quest for delicious food (their app is great for finding the best restaurants in the area!), but this time around, we wanted to do something a little different.
With our hearts set on experiencing the Cape Peninsula, we started browsing the options. There were private tours, bus tours, biking tours and hiking tours, but then something a bit more unusual caught our attention: a sidecar tour!
Having gotten a quick taste of the riding life on our visit to Stellenbosch earlier that week, we jumped at the idea of spending the whole day cruising the Cape Peninsula in style and hit book right away.

We booked our tour with a day's notice, and the following morning our guide Bradley was waiting for us ready to ride. The first thing he did was ask us if there were any places we really wanted to hit up on our Cape Peninsula tour so that he could personalize the itinerary accordingly.
We chose to skip Hout Bay since we had already been there and done a boat tour to Seal Island, but we wanted to see all the highlights. With that in mind, we got into our new biker outfits, and let Bradley take the lead.

The Route
Our first stop of the day was a lookout point over Muizenberg. This is a beach-side suburb of Cape Town, best known for its colourful beach huts. While a trip to the beach was not on the itinerary, we enjoyed the views over False Bay.

From there it was just a short drive over to the Shark Spotter's, which is another popular lookout point, named aptly so for the shark spotter who sits in a booth, carefully scanning the waters below. The spotter operates on a 4-flag system: green means spotting conditions are good, black means spotting conditions are poor, red means there is a high shark alert, and white means a shark has been spotted and everyone needs to get out of the water immediately. Talk about a stressful job!
We then continued straight towards Cape Point Nature Reserve to try and beat the crowds. This turned out to be a good move because by the time we left the reserve in the afternoon, there was a lineup of vehicles waiting to get in, all the way down to the main road!
We paid our admission fee to the park (135 Rand per person) and made a beeline straight for the Cape of Good Hope - the southwesternmost point on the African continent. It still feels a bit crazy to have made it to the ends of the Earth not once, but twice!

Sam then had a failed attempt at befriending an ostrich (much to our guide's delight!) and after grabbing a quick lunch while scanning that no baboons snatched food off our plate (this almost sounds like a safari!), we hiked up to the lighthouse for views of Cape Point. This outcrop of land caused sailors such great torment and even gave rise to the legend of the Flying Dutchman, a ghost ship that can never make port and is doomed to sail the oceans for all eternity.

We then hopped back in the sidecar and made our way towards Simon's Town. This little harbour town sits on the shores of False Bay and is a popular weekend destination with lots of little restaurants serving up seafood. We were there on Mother's Day, so everything was packed!

With Boulders Beach being so close by, we couldn't resist the opportunity to go visit the penguins again, so we did! This place gets its name from the giant granite boulders dotting the beach, but the main attraction are the curious penguins who make their home on the pristine stretch of sand.

And now for what may be my favourite part of the whole drive: Chapman's Peak. This is a winding drive that hugs the near-vertical mountains along Hout Bay. With bright blue skies above us, turquoise waters glistening under the sun, and a wall of rock rising to our right, the setting was nothing short of idyllic.

Our last stop on the way back to town was Camps Bay, one of the most iconic neighbourhoods in all of Cape Town. Camps Bay is framed by the Twelve Apostles mountain range, and like most places along the peninsula, it's about as postcard-perfect as it gets. We rode down Victoria Road which is lined with palm trees, seaside cafes, and on this particular day, merry crowds.
I think back to our rainy Cape Peninsula tour two years ago, and we seriously could not have asked for a better do over!

Our tour booking experience
We've done tours with TripAdvisor before and one of the things we most value is the quality of their product. Our guides have always been outstanding, the experiences personalized, and you either go on a private tour or with a small group. That is what keeps us coming back.
I did a lot of budget tours in my early twenties often ending up disappointed with what I paid for. However, if there's one lesson I've learned in this past decade of travel, it's that you get exactly what you paid for, and these days, I’m willing to pay a little extra for an experience I’ll truly enjoy.

When booking this activity, we made sure to read through the reviews to see what fellow travellers had to say. This particular tour company had 89 reviews on TripAdvisor and nothing but 5-star ratings, so we felt very confident in terms of what we were getting.
So would I recommend the Cape Peninsula sidecar tour?
Absolutely!
As you can probably tell from the cheesy grins on our photos, riding a sidecar was a blast. Just be prepared to wave at passersby - this ride is going to make you popular!

Cape Peninsula Sidecar Tour Planner: Routes, Stops, Costs, and Travel Tips

Why Choose a Sidecar (Over Bus/Car/Bike)?

A sidecar tour hits the sweet spot between comfort and adventure. You still feel the elements (hello, ocean breeze!), you can stop spontaneously for viewpoints and penguins, and you don’t have to watch the road. Also, the ride-along banter with your driver-guide is half the fun.

Two Smart Route Options (And Who They’re For)

You can loop the Cape Peninsula clockwise or counterclockwise from Cape Town. Both are gorgeous; pick based on your priorities.

Option A: Sunrise East → Cape Point → Sunset West (Counterclockwise)

Best for: Beating Cape Point queues, softer morning light over False Bay, golden-hour glow on Chapman’s Peak/Camps Bay.Route highlights: Muizenberg (colourful huts) → Kalk Bay/Simon’s Town → Boulders Beach (penguins) → Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope → Scarborough → Chapman’s Peak Drive → Hout Bay → Camps Bay → Sea Point.

Option B: West-First Wow-Factor (Clockwise)

Best for: Immediate drama on the Atlantic side and long brunches in Kalk Bay on the way back.Route highlights: Sea Point → Camps Bay → Chapman’s Peak Drive → Noordhoek → Scarborough → Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope → Simon’s Town → Boulders Beach → Muizenberg.

Sample One-Day Itinerary (Customizable With Your Guide)

07:30–08:30 | Pickup & Gear-UpHelmet, goggles, jacket, and the obligatory cheesy grin. Coffee stop if required by law (our law).

08:45 | Muizenberg LookoutsWave at the iconic beach huts and pop up to the Shark Spotter’s for sweeping views over False Bay.

09:30 | Stroll in Kalk Bay or Simon’s TownQuick browse of antique shops in Kalk Bay or a harbor ramble in Simon’s Town. If you’re ravenous early, Olympia Café in Kalk Bay does excellent pastries.

10:15 | Boulders Beach Boardwalks (Penguins!)Follow the boardwalks and remember the 1-meter rule. The boulders + turquoise water + flappy little tuxedos = heart explosion.

11:30–13:30 | Cape Point Nature Reserve

Snap the classic Cape of Good Hope sign.

Watch for ostrich, baboons, and bontebok.

Choose your own adventure at Cape Point: hike the cliff path or take the funicular to the lighthouse.

Picnic or quick café lunch—guard your food from baboons.

14:30 | Scarborough → Misty CliffsShort coastal run with wild, windswept beaches.

15:00 | Chapman’s Peak DrivePullouts galore. Ask your driver for their favorite photo lay-bys.

16:00 | Hout Bay (Optional)Harbor ice-cream or a quick amble if you didn’t stop here earlier in your trip.

16:45–17:30 | Camps Bay SundownersPalms, cafés, ocean glitter. If timing allows, park up for a cold drink with a view.

17:45–18:15 | Drop-OffCue the “did that really just happen?” happy-tired face.

Two-Day Add-On Ideas (If You Want to Linger)

Kalk Bay Slow Day: Galleries, tidal pools, bakery-hopping, vintage shopping.

Noordhoek & Kommetjie: Horse rides on the beach, long café lunches, lighthouse strolls.

Seal Island from Hout Bay: Short boat ride to watch the resident colony.

Wine + Sidecar: Pair the peninsula with a Stellenbosch or Constantia wine spin on day two.

What to Wear (So You’re Comfy in the Breeze)

Layers are your best friend—even on bluebird days.

Base: T-shirt or light long sleeve (UV-friendly if you burn easily)

Mid: Fleece or sweater

Outer: Windproof shell (operators often provide jackets, but a lightweight layer underneath keeps you cosy)

Bottoms: Jeans or travel pants (avoid flimsy fabrics that flap)

Footwear: Closed-toe shoes or sturdy sneakers

Accessories: Sunglasses, buff/scarf for the neck, small daypack, sunscreen, lip balm

Wildlife Etiquette & Safety (Penguins, Ostriches, Baboons)

Penguins: Keep 1 meter away; no feeding, no flash. They bite when stressed—those beaks mean business.

Ostriches: Admire from a distance. They can kick up to 70 km/h worth of regret.

Baboons: Never carry visible food in the reserve. Keep bags zipped. If one approaches, drop food and step back slowly—don’t fight a baboon for your sandwich.

Shark Spotters: Green = good visibility; black = poor; red = high alert; white = shark sighted. Always follow local guidance.

Where to Eat (Tried-and-True Spots Along the Loop)

Coffee & Pastries:

Olympia Café (Kalk Bay) – pastries and strong coffee

Bootlegger (Muizenberg/various) – consistent espresso

Seafood & Views:

Harbour House (Kalk Bay) – oceanfront fish

Salty Sea Dog (Simon’s Town) – classic fish & chips

Mariner’s Wharf (Hout Bay) – casual harbor atmosphere

Snack Stops:

Noordhoek Farm Village – bakeries, deli, gelato

Camps Bay strip – sundowners and beachy bites

Local Flavours to Try

Snoek (local fish), biltong (jerky-style), milk tart (custard pie), rooibos tea, and a koeksister (sticky syrupy pastry).

Cost & Experience Comparison

ExperienceFreedomComfortTime EfficiencyTypical Group SizeWho It SuitsSidecar TourMedium–High (custom routes)High (you don’t drive)High (guide handles logistics)Private/smallCouples, photographers, “make-it-special” travellersPrivate Car TourHighHighHighPrivateFamilies, groups, mobility considerationsSelf-DriveVery HighMedium (you’re driving)Medium (parking/queues)Just youRepeat visitors, road-trip loversCoach TourLowMediumMediumLargeBudget-conscious, first-timersBike TourMediumFitness-dependentMedium–LowSmallActive travellers, cooler-weather days

Quick-Grab Checklists

Pre-Booking Checklist

☐ Decide clockwise vs counterclockwise route

☐ Flag your “musts” (penguins, Cape Point hike, Chapmans)

☐ Share dietary needs with your guide (gluten-free, veg, etc.)

☐ Confirm what gear the operator provides (helmets, jackets, gloves)

☐ Ask about pickup time, duration, entrance fees/tolls

☐ Check weather/wind forecast and dress accordingly

Day-Of Checklist

☐ Photo ID & payment method

☐ Sunscreen + sunglasses

☐ Layers (base/mid/shell)

☐ Closed-toe shoes

☐ Reusable water bottle & snacks

☐ Camera/phone with wrist strap

☐ Small cash for coffee/ice-cream/tips

☐ Respect-for-wildlife mode ON

Photo Stop Shortlist (Save for Your Driver)

Muizenberg Huts – candy-coloured nostalgia

Shark Spotter’s Lookout – False Bay pano

Boulders Beach Boardwalk – penguin portraits

Diaz Beach Lookout (inside the reserve) – dramatic surf and cliffs

Cape of Good Hope sign – the iconic “we made it” snap

Cape Point Lighthouse – choose the cliff path for cinematic frames

Misty Cliffs – moody long exposures on overcast days

Chapman’s Peak Pullouts – every single one is a banger

Camps Bay Tidal Pool – glassy reflections at sunset

Weather & Wind 101 (Because Cape Doctor = Drama)

Summer (Dec–Mar): Blue skies, strong afternoon Southeaster (“Cape Doctor”). Bring windbreakers; go early.

Autumn (Apr–May): Calmer winds, warm water in False Bay, softer light. Chef’s kiss.

Winter (Jun–Aug): Green hills, moody clouds, occasional rain—fantastic for photos; layer up.

Spring (Sep–Nov): Wildflowers inland, variable winds, pleasantly cool.

Cape Peninsula Sidecar Tour: 12-Question FAQ

How long does a typical sidecar tour of the Cape Peninsula take?

Most full-loop sidecar tours run 8–10 hours with plenty of scenic stops. Because it’s private/small-group, your guide can speed up or slow down depending on weather, queues, and how long you want to linger with penguins.

Do I need a motorcycle license or prior experience?

Nope. You’ll ride as a passenger in the sidecar or on the pillion behind the guide (operators brief you on seating and safety). A standard driver’s license is not required for passengers.

What happens if the wind is howling or Chapman’s Peak is closed?

Operators monitor conditions daily. If Chapman’s Peak closes, guides reroute via Ou Kaapse Weg or along the False Bay side. Strong wind days still run—dress in layers, use the provided jackets, and request extra sheltered stops.

Is the tour suitable for kids?

Yes—older children who can sit securely and keep a helmet on generally love it. Always confirm minimum age/size policies with your operator, and request a smaller helmet in advance if needed.

Can we skip crowded spots and focus on nature?

Absolutely. Tell your guide you prefer wild coastal viewpoints, cliff paths, and quieter bays. They’ll time the penguins/Cape Point to avoid peak hours and add lesser-known lookouts like Diaz Beach and Misty Cliffs.

What should I budget beyond the tour price?

Have extra for park entrance fees, Boulders Beach boardwalk tickets, Chapman’s Peak toll, food, coffee, and tips. Some operators include fees; others don’t—check your booking and carry small cash just in case.

Will I be warm enough in the sidecar?

With a base layer + mid layer + windproof and the operator’s jacket, you’ll be fine most of the year. Hands run cold first—bring light gloves in winter and a buff for your neck.

Can I bring a DSLR and change lenses safely?

Yes—at stops. While moving, keep gear zipped in a bag or wear a wrist/neck strap for your phone/camera. Coastal breezes can be sandy/salty; a UV filter on your lens is wise.

Is Boulders Beach worth paying for if I’ve seen penguins elsewhere?

Yes. The boardwalks glide you past nests, nurseries, and shoreline waddles with minimal disturbance, and the boulders themselves are eye-popping. It’s one of the most photogenic penguin habitats you’ll ever visit.

Can we swim during the tour?

If timing and tides cooperate, your guide can stop at a tidal pool (Kalk Bay/St James) or a calm False Bay beach. Bring a swimsuit and towel if you’re a “dip anywhere” person.

How customizable is the food side of the day?

Very. From no-frills fish & chips to harbour-view seafood and farm-village cafés, your guide can tailor to dietary needs and vibes (quick snacks vs long lunches). Let them know if you’re gluten-free/veg/halal.

What’s the one thing you’d do differently next time?

We’d add one more hour inside Cape Point Nature Reserve to hike a cliff path between the lighthouse and Diaz Beach, then time Chapman’s Peak for late-afternoon light. The stops are so good you’ll always wish for just a smidge more time!

Have you ever ridden in a sidecar?Would you do a Cape Peninsula sidecar tour?

This article was written in partnership with TripAdvisor, but all opinions expressed are mine alone.


Carnaval de Quebec: Attending Quebec City's Biggest Winter Party!

This past weekend Sam and I took a little trip to Quebec City to take part in Carnaval de Quebec - the biggest winter festival in Canada! This is an event that I've wanted to attend for years, so I was thrilled to finally have the chance to do so.
What I loved about this celebration is that people came out by thousands in spite of the cold! There were groups of friends, couples, and even families with their toddlers in tow. There is a lot of fun to be had in Quebec City in winter - the key is to bundle up!
We wanted to give you a taste of what Carnaval de Quebec is all about, so here are some highlights of the various events and activities we took part in!

Highlights from Carnaval de Quebec

Dog sledding for the first time
When Sam and I spotted dog sledding inside the winter carnival grounds, we made a beeline for it. We had both always wanted to try dog sledding, but we'd never had the opportunity. Well, today was the day! When we arrived we were met by a team of ecstatic pups who just wanted to run. I had barely gotten a tutorial on stopping and steering when I lifted my foot off the brake and off we went. The loop was short, but it was a fun introduction to dog sledding and I definitely want to try it again next time I find myself in a winter destination.

Ice canoeing on the frozen Saint Lawrence
There are some badass Canadians out there! Yes, those are the frozen waters of the Saint Lawrence River, and yes, those are teams pushing their canoes through the ice to compete in the ice canoe races. Can you believe this is a sport?! I got to try ice canoeing as well (that's another story for another post!) and man, do I ever have some newfound respect for what these people do. Being out there is not easy, but you sure do get an adrenaline rush out of it!

Ice fishing with a guaranteed catch
I've never gone fishing before, let alone ice fishing, so I decided to give it a go. Well, they must've had the tank beneath us really well-stocked because Sam and I were there less than 2 minutes before a fish ate the bait and swam away, and then another few minutes before we actually caught one. Fastest catch ever! We then took our fish to the grill and they cooked it on site.

A ride on a horse-drawn sleigh
"Dashing through the snow On a one-horse open sleigh, Over the fields we go, Laughing all the way."

I feel like this was a weekend of firsts. Yet again, I got to do something I never had before by riding a horse-drawn sleigh. We were given blankets to help us stay warm, and then off we went for a leisurely ride around the Plains of Abraham. I was humming Jingle Bells in my head because the lyrics couldn't be any more fitting.
Beavertails and hot chocolate
I still remember the first time I heard about beavertails years ago. A look of horror briefly passed through my face as I envisioned these crazy Canadians catching beavers and deep-frying their tails as a snack; thankfully I was pretty off pointing with this one. Beavertails are actually fried dough pastries that can be topped with all kinds of sweet condiments. I treated myself to a Triple Trio which had Nutella, peanut butter, and Reese's pieces chocolate on top. Pair that with a cup of hot chocolate and you have the perfect mid-afternoon pick me up.

Meeting Bonhomme, the face of Carnaval de Quebec
Oh, Bonhomme! What can I say about this guy? To me, he's half snowman and half Pillsbury doughboy. He's got a sharp sense of humour, a giant smile, and a kick that cracks me up every single time. We got to tour his ice palace and he had everyone laughing the whole time. My favourite lost in translation moment was when he welcomed us into his living room, "This is my restroom. Can you say that? My room where I rest."

Incredible ice sculptures
We saw some very talented artists at work during the Carnaval de Quebec. There were teams at work with all manner of tools and instruments ranging from saws to sandpaper. The photo above shows one of my favourite sculptures. The artists wasn't around so I couldn't ask what his vision was, but I like to think there's a connection to Canada's marine wildlife in there.

Activities at Carnaval de Quebec:
And that is just a little taste of some of the things I got to try in one day. Of course, there are plenty more activities to choose from including:

Dog sledding
Snowboarding
Tubing
Sleigh rides
Ice fishing
Hot tubs
Life-sized foosball
Cross-country skiing
Ice bumper cars
Snow sculptures
Dancing (because you've gotta find a way to stay warm!)
and more!

Winter travel tips for Carnaval de Quebec

Bundle up and bundle up some more! The key to enjoying Carnaval de Quebec is to stay warm; if you start to get cold you'll be miserable! Heat packs were a lifesaver for me. I had never used them before, but they are the only thing that got me through the cold! You give them a good shake, slip a pack into each of your mittens, and you are set for the day. I also wished I had brought snow pants and proper winter boots (my UGG look-alikes are warm but they aren't waterproof and they were usually wet by the end of the day).
Choose a hotel that's within walking distance of the activities. You don't want to spend a lot of time getting from point A to point B, when the temperatures are hovering between -25C and -35C (sometimes colder!) I stayed at the Hilton Quebec which was a short 5-minute walk from the grounds, but there are also lots of smaller, independently run hostels and guesthouses to choose from if you're looking for something that's a bit more budget-friendly.
Plan your visit with the carnival schedule in hand. Carnaval de Quebec lasts 16 days and there are all kinds of events scheduled over that period of time - many of which don't repeat themselves. If you're set on watching the ice canoe races or dancing the night away on DJ night, make sure you time your visit to coincide with those events.

Carnaval Survival Kit: Tickets, Food Halls, Neighbourhood Detours
Choose the Right Pass (and Don’t Lose the “Effigy”)

Pass Type
Price*
Best For
Includes

Effigy Pin
CAD $20 online / $25 on-site
1–2-day visitors who mainly roam the central fairgrounds
Access to daytime activities, Bonhomme’s Ice Palace, night parades

Effigy + Zip Line / Ice Slide Wristband
+ $15
Thrill-seekers who hate separate ticket lines
Unlimited rides on the giant tube slide & zip line

VIP Grand Prix (Ice Canoe)
$60
Photographers; sheltered bleacher seat + hot chocolate
Seat at finish line, broadcast screen, heated rest area

Tip: The Effigy is literally a collectible plastic Bonhomme charm that clips to your coat. Lose it and you’ll be paying again—so fasten it inside a zipper pull.

Map Your Days by District
The festival spills across three hubs, each walkable but far enough apart that you’ll appreciate plotting a loop rather than ping-ponging.

Parc de la Francophonie (Main Grounds) – Dog sledding mini-track, tube slide, snow sculptures, Ice Bar.

Plains of Abraham – Sleigh rides, fat-bike rentals, cross-country ski trail; free with Effigy.

Old Port / Bassin Louise – Ice-canoe start line, ice-skating oval, DJ stage on Friday & Saturday nights.

Warm-up loop: Start mid-morning at the Plains (active stuff), migrate to Parc de la Francophonie by afternoon for food stalls, end at the Old Port for sunset over the river and après-ski cocktails in heated igloos.

Food Beyond the Beavertail: Five Carnivorous & Veggie Must-Tries

Dish
Where to Find It
Why Order

Caribou (mulled wine + whisky + maple syrup)
Ice Bar or any street kiosk with a red syrup bottle
Served in a reusable plastic cane; pockets double as hand warmers.

Poutine Galvaude (chicken + peas)
Chez Ashton pop-up in the grounds
Québec’s “deluxe” poutine; perfect 2 a.m. stomach liner after DJ set.

Soupe aux pois
Ferme Racine et Fils chalet
Hearty pea soup ladled into bread bowls—vegetarian option available.

Tourtière sliders
Food-truck alley
Mini versions of the iconic meat pie; easier to eat mitt-handed.

Maple-tire à la neige
Sugar-shack stand near the Ferris wheel
Hot maple syrup rolled on snow sticks—show mid-afternoon when you flag.

Pack Like a Polar Expedition—but Make It Packable
Base Layer: Merino wool or synthetic top + leggings. Cotton kills heat when sweaty.Mid Layer: Fleece or light down sweater.Shell: Waterproof parka with hood—and make sure the zipper tab is glove-friendly.Snow Pants: Windproof; side zips let you vent inside restaurants.Accessories:

Heat packs (x6) – slip extras in ankle boots.

Neck gaiter—longer than a scarf so it tucks into coat.

Touch-screen mittens + thin liner gloves.

Polarised sunglasses—sun off snow is blinding.

Spare camera battery inside inner pocket (cold drains originals fast).

A 20-litre daypack lets you stash layers when you duck indoors; line it with a garbage bag to keep melted snow from soaking souvenirs.
Après-Carnaval Nightlife Without the Frostbite

Venue
Walk Time From Main Gate
Vibe

Bar Ste-Angèle
10 min
Candle-lit jazz cave with Quebec microbrews on nitro tap.

La Souche – Stoneham Microbrasserie (pop-up in Old Port)
On-site
Try the maple-coffee stout; heated yurts, board games.

Pub Saint-Patrick
12 min
Irish-Québec hybrid, live fiddle sets; reliable for midnight gravy fries.

Tip: Québec City has an alley-to-pub indoor walkway network (passages couverts) connecting Rue Saint-Jean to Côte du Palais—use it as a thawing shortcut.
Quick Two-Day Sample Itinerary

Time
Day 1 (Sat)
Day 2 (Sun)

09:00
Coffee + croissant at Cantook Café
Snowshoe Plains of Abraham (gear rental opens 09:30)

10:30
Dog-sled loop, tube slide warm-ups
Ice-canoe finals bleachers

12:30
Caribou & poutine lunch, live folk fiddles
Tour Bonhomme’s Palace + ice-bar mocktails

15:00
Ice-fishing & grilled trout
Snow sculptor Q&A + maple taffy

18:00
Return to hotel, change
Return gear, wander Petit Champlain lights

19:30
Night parade on Grande Allée
Fireside stout tasting at La Souche

22:00
DJ Stage + fireworks in Old Port
Late-night beavertail & farewell photos of Château Frontenac

Here's a video we filmed during the Carnaval de Quebec to give you a feel of the event:

FAQ: Carnaval de Québec — Attending Québec City’s Biggest Winter Party
What is Carnaval de Québec?
It’s a 16-day winter festival across Québec City with snow sculptures, night parades, outdoor sports, food stalls, music, and Bonhomme’s Ice Palace—basically Canada’s coziest cold-weather blowout.
Where are the main festival hubs?
Events spread across Parc de la Francophonie (main grounds), the Plains of Abraham (skiing, sleigh rides), and the Old Port/Bassin Louise (ice-canoe races, skating, DJ nights).
Do I need a ticket or pass?
Yes—most visitors wear the effigy (a Bonhomme charm) clipped to your coat for general access. Add activity wristbands (e.g., tube slide/zip line) or special event tickets (like ice-canoe bleachers) as desired.
What are can’t-miss activities?
Dog-sledding demos, giant tube slide, snow sculptures, sleigh rides, ice fishing (cook-your-catch), hot tubs/saunas, ice-canoe races, and Bonhomme’s Ice Palace tour. Evenings bring parades, DJs, and fireworks.
How cold does it get—and how do I dress?
Expect serious chill (-25 °C to -35 °C possible). Dress base + mid + waterproof shell, add snow pants, insulated boots, neck gaiter, liner gloves under mitts, and heat packs (game-changers).
Any food & drink I should try?
Grab a BeaverTail and hot chocolate for instant cheer. Classic Québec treats include caribou (mulled tipple), poutine, tourtière sliders, pea soup, and maple taffy on snow.
Is the festival family-friendly?
Totally. You’ll see strollers, toddlers on toboggans, and kid-size activities. Pick a hotel within walking distance to allow quick warm-up breaks between events.
How do I see the ice-canoe races?
Head to the Old Port shoreline/bleachers on race day. Arrive early, layer up, and bring a thermos; wind off the St. Lawrence is no joke. Expect thrilling sprints over ice floes and slush.
What’s the deal with Bonhomme?
He’s the festival’s beloved snowman ambassador—expect jokes, photo ops, and a tour of his Ice Palace. Pro tip: lines are shorter earlier in the day.
Can I do sledding, skating, and skiing without my own gear?
Yes—there are on-site rentals for fat-bikes, skis, skates, and more. Bring ID, a credit card, and plan a little buffer time for queues on weekends.
Any logistics tips for first-timers?

Plot by district to avoid back-and-forth in the cold.

Check the schedule—some events run only once or on specific weekends.

Keep your effigy secure (clip inside a zipper pull).

Carry cash/card; kiosks may have lines at peak times.

Where should I stay?
Anywhere walkable to the grounds; downtown hotels and guesthouses make quick warm-up stops easy. (You stayed at the Hilton Québec—5 minutes from the gates—great reference point.)
Have you been to Quebec City in the winter?Did you get to experience Carnaval de Quebec?


Carry-on Essentials That Make Long-Haul Flights More Bearable!

What's the longest flight you've ever been on? I think for me, it was the time I flew from Germany to Australia. That involved two full days of travel as I went from Frankfurt to Abu Dhabi, to Singapore, to Brisbane, to Townsville. Are you still awake? I know I barely was by the time I set foot off that fourth flight.
Travel can often be made to look glamorous on blogs and Instagram feeds, but if you've done one of these long-haul flights yourself, you know they are no joke - especially if you're flying economy!

For today's post I thought I'd write up a list of carry-on essentials that help make long-haul flights a bit more bearable.
Carry-On Travel Essentials:

Sleep & Comfort
Neck pillow - To avoid a stiff neck after a long flight.
Silk eye mask - So you can sleep regardless of whether it's daylight or the lights are one in the cabin.
Warm socks - I'm always freezing on planes, so even if I'm travelling to a warm destination that will require flip flops, I also pack a pair of warm fuzzy socks for the flight.
Pashmina -  It's multipurpose plus it keeps me warm.
Hoodie or wrap cardigan - Did I already mention I'm always cold on planes?
Leggings - Because they are super comfortable and probably more acceptable than changing into pyjamas.

Entertainment & Work
Kindle - I always keep my Kindle handy and loaded with 2-3 books. It's a nice way to pass time after watching a few movies.
Earphones - I used to think all earphones were created equal until my husband got me a pair that changed everything. I always thought audio was really bad on airplanes, but that's just because I was using the cheap earphones they hand out in flight. I don't carry large noise-cancelling ones because of their size, but that's something to consider if you're really into music and films.
Camera - To capture those spectacular sunrises and sunsets views if you luck out with a window seat.
Phone - I normally don't use my phone in flight, but I keep it fully charged in my carry-on bag for when I arrive at my destination. I save a map of the area on Google Maps, plot my hotel, and also make notes of transport options and any contact numbers I may need once I land.
USB to Micro USB cable - A lot of planes have USB ports nowadays (though some airlines still have some catching up to do!), which makes it a lot easier to charge things like your phone or Kindle in flight. I keep a charger in my bag just in case any of my electronics run low on battery.
Laptop - While I'm not one to pull out my laptop mid-flight (I find that the space is a little too cramped!) I know some people like to write or do a bit of photo editing while they're up in the air.
Notebook + pen - To scribble ideas and reminders, plus it's a good idea to keep a few pens handy for filling out immigration forms once you arrive.

Beauty & Cleansing
Toothpaste + toothbrush - If you're on a long overnight flight, the airline may hand out small complimentary toiletry kits, but I personally like to carry my own just in case.
Deodorant - Pretty self explanatory.
Wet wipes - Because that's as close as you're going to get to a shower.
Lip balm - I hate the feeling of dry lips so I always keep lip balm in my carry-on as well as spares in my luggage. I really like the EOS lip balm (the fun shape has something to do with it) or a stick of Nivea chapstick.
Hairbrush - Especially if you have long hair. Even a travel-sized one will do.
Dry shampoo - Greatest invention ever! I first discovered dry shampoo about two years ago and now I don't travel without it. It's not just great in-flight (you'll want something under 100mL in your carry-on), but it's also great for days when you don't feel like washing your hair.
Hydrating face mist - Another product that blew my mind the first time I tried it! Airplanes are really dry and this is such a nice way to rehydrate your skin (again you'll want to ensure it's a travel-friendly under 100mL bottle).

Little “Why-didn’t-I-pack-that?!” Extras That Upgrade Economy to Almost Premium
Zip-Top Pouch of “Airplane Hygiene”

Item
Why it earns its seat-belt sign

Travel-size mouthwash
Quick swish after in-flight coffee kills dragon breath when the lav queues are biblical.

Nasal saline spray
Cabin humidity can plummet below 15 %. Two spritzes every few hours keep sinuses from cracking (and ward off colds).

Disposable dental pick
Easier than floss in a cramped seat, zero water required.

Tiny packet of laundry detergent
A dab in the lav basin lets you rinse socks/undies on ultra-long turnarounds—game changer on round-the-world tickets.

Tip: Store these liquids in a separate transparent pouch so you don’t unpack your entire toiletries kit at security.

One-Sheet Tech Toolkit

Multi-device charging cable (USB-A/USB-C/Lightning/Micro-USB) – Replaces a fistful of cords and works on newer seat-back USB-C ports popping up on Airbus A350s.

Short 30 cm power bank lead – Long cables tangle in tray tables.

Phone stand clip – Snaps onto the seat-back tray latch so you can watch downloaded Netflix without craning your neck. Weighs 15 g and costs less than an airport latte.

Bluetooth transmitter – Plug it into the in-flight screen’s audio jack and enjoy movies on your own earbuds, no crappy airline headset required.

Mini Wellness Arsenal

TheraBand loop – Stretch hamstrings in the galley; doubles as an impromptu resistance workout during layovers.

Roll-on essential oil blend (peppermint + eucalyptus) – Swipe on temples for instant invigoration or under nose when the cabin takes on that “socks ‘n’ stew” aroma.

Melinex rehydration sachet – Electrolytes without sugar; keeps the post-flight fog at bay if you’ve indulged in the free wine.

Flat-Pack Food Fixes
Even if you board armed with snacks, hunger often strikes just after the crew retracts the carts. Slip these into a slim Stasher bag:

Nori sheets + baby soy sauce fish – The umami hit kills salty-craving without crumbs.

Medjool dates stuffed with almond butter – Slow-release energy that survives hours in a tote.

Instant miso soup sachet – Ask for hot water; perfect when the “mystery pasta” option disappoints.

Seat-Side Storage Hack
A foldable seat pocket organiser (think lightweight felt with Velcro strap) keeps lip balm, pen, tissues, and earbuds at fingertip height—no more deep-sea diving for essentials every time your row-mate assassinates the armrest.

Tactical Document Prep

Snap a photo of your passport bio page, vaccine card, and onward ticket and set them as favourites in your phone gallery. Offline accessibility is gold when transit Wi-Fi sputters.

Slip a printed hotel address + phone number into your passport; bleary 2 a.m. immigration forms are easier when info is at a glance.

Frequently Asked Questions: Carry-On Essentials for Long-Haul Flights
What are the absolute must-pack items for comfort on a long flight?
A supportive neck pillow, silk eye mask, warm socks, and a pashmina or hoodie. These handle temperature swings and help you sleep even with cabin lights on.
How can I actually sleep in economy?
Build a “sleep kit”: neck pillow + eye mask + earplugs/earbuds + layers. Choose a window seat if possible, set a gentle sleep playlist, and avoid caffeine for 6–8 hours pre-flight.
What entertainment should I prep before boarding?
Download 2–3 books to your Kindle, offline playlists/podcasts, and a few episodes/movies. Add a phone stand clip so you’re not craning your neck the entire flight.
Are noise-cancelling headphones worth the space?
If you value quiet, yes. If space is tight, quality in-ear buds + a Bluetooth transmitter (for the seatback screen) give you most of the benefit in a smaller package.
Which cables and chargers cover all my devices?
Carry a multi-device cable (USB-A/USB-C/Lightning/Micro-USB) plus a short lead for a power bank. Many newer aircraft have USB-C ports; a compact 10–20k mAh power bank is a lifesaver during delays.
What beauty and hygiene mini-kit works best at altitude?
Toothbrush + toothpaste, deodorant, lip balm, wet wipes, hydrating face mist, travel hairbrush, and a <100 mL dry shampoo. Add a tiny mouthwash for instant refresh after meals.
Any smart health/wellness add-ons to feel human on landing?
Yes: a TheraBand loop for gentle stretching, a roll-on essential oil (peppermint/eucalyptus) for alertness, and electrolyte sachets to counter the cabin’s dryness and wine/coffee.
What snacks travel well and don’t crumble everywhere?
Nori sheets with mini soy packets, Medjool dates stuffed with almond butter, and instant miso soup (ask crew for hot water). They’re compact, satisfying, and mess-light.
How do I keep my seat area organized?
Use a foldable seat-pocket organizer (light felt + Velcro). Park lip balm, pen, tissues, earbuds, phone stand, and snacks at fingertip height—no more digging mid-turbulence.
What documents should I keep handy—and how?
Favorites folder on your phone with passport photo page, visas, vaccine card, and onward ticket (all offline). Tuck a printed hotel address/phone inside your passport for sleepy immigration lines.
Any packing rules I’ll regret ignoring at security?
Liquids typically must be in containers ≤100 mL inside a clear 1-liter bag (the “3-1-1 rule” in some regions). Keep meds and electronics accessible. Always check your airline and departure country’s current rules.
What’s the best “economy to almost-premium” upgrade I can DIY?
A small hygiene pouch (mouthwash, saline nasal spray, dental picks, mini detergent), a Bluetooth transmitter for your own earbuds, and that seat organizer. Together they punch way above their weight.
Now it's over to you:
What's the longest flight you've ever been on?
What were some of your carry-on essentials on that flight?
This article does contain a few affiliate links but they come at no extra cost to you.


Chased Down A Mountain By Local Hmong Ladies In Vietnam

I came to Sapa to go trekking in Vietnam; I prepared for that trek by eating mocha cake.
That should give you a glimpse into my level of fitness...
Seeing as I haven't been on a serious hike since...oh, never...I decided I would start small by hiking down to Cat Cat Village which lies about 2 kilometres away from Sapa in the valley below. Surely, that would be enough training for the 2 day trek I was going on later that week.
I put on my brand new running shoes (the ones I've had for over a year but still glow white because that's how often I use them) and we set off down the dirt path.

That's when Sam and I met them - three women clad in indigo, the colour of the Hmong tribe.
"What's your name?"
"Where you from?"
"He your boyfriend?"
I was impressed by their level of English, and we soon had a conversation underway.

"Wow, these people are so friendly!" I thought to myself. This is exactly the kind of cultural encounter every traveller hopes for - walking down a mountain en route to a rural village, water buffaloes munching away on shrubs, women from a local hill tribe joining for a walk. Why this is the kind of stuff makes the feature story on the National Geographic! Right?
If you've been to Sapa before you're probably laughing at me and shaking your head at my impending demise. You know what's coming.
Hidden agenda, you say? Impossible! I don't fall for this kind of thing. We were talking, we were laughing, they were playing music for us. This was genuine I tell you, genuine!
Except it wasn't.

Once we began approaching Cat Cat Village, the three women told us they would not be able to go any further because they were from Lao Chai, a village located further away.
Our time together was coming to and end and it was now time for their business pitch, which literally went like this:
"Okay, now you buy from me."
Uh, what?
"I have bracelet, I have purse, I have bag. You buy from me."
All three of them were looking at me with expectant eyes, each waiting for me to purchase something. I didn't want to be the foreigner who passes through town and doesn't give anything back to the local community, plus these women seemed nice and they had been walking with me for a while now, so in spite of having a backpack full of souvenirs and trinkets I have no use for, I gave in and purchased yet another purse .
But it didn't end there.

"Now you buy from heeeer. Buy from heeeeeer."
"You buy from meeeee."
"Yes, you buy from heeeeeeer."
Oh oh. Despite my refusals, silver bracelets were being displayed in my face, coin purses put in my hands, this was starting to feel like the bamboo train incident, and I needed to get out of there pronto.
I declined their offers, apologized for not being able to buy from all of them, and picked up the pace hoping that would be the end of the conversation.
Except they started walking just as fast behind me. (You've got to admire their persistence.)
Crap! Now what? Am I supposed to run?!
How did we go from having a 'cultural encounter' to me galloping down the mountain with little ladies chasing after me? A funny scene to behold, yes, but where's the part where I get invited back to their homes for a cup of tea? Isn't that how it goes in the travel documentaries?
By now I had reached the entrance to Cat Cat Village and I was safe.

I was feeling kind of bad about the way I had handled things, but then on the hike back from Cat Cat Village to Sapa I changed my mind. As I walked back uphill on the same path I had taken down, I noticed an even larger group of local Hmong ladies were now repeating the same tactics on the group of foreigners who were slowly trickling down to the town for a visit.
I noticed the women who had chased me down only a few hours ago, and they just laughed and smiled my way.
No hard feelings - just another business day on the mountains.
P.S. There weren't that many cats in Cat Cat Village.

Survival Guide to Trekking in Sapa (and Keeping Your Sanity Intact)
(Because sometimes you want a National Geographic moment, and other times you just want to reach the village without adopting an entire souvenir shop.)

Read the Hillside Hustle—Before It Reads You

Expect the entourage. Friendly conversation is often the soft‑opening for a sales pitch. Smile, chat, but set expectations early with a light “Maybe later, I’m just walking for now.”
Buy with intention. If you do want a keepsake, pick one vendor and purchase a single item. Politely explain you can’t carry more; most will understand.
Master the graceful exit. A simple “Cảm ơn, không cần đâu” (thank you, I don’t need it) plus steady forward momentum works wonders.

Trekking Routes for Every Level

Trek
Distance & Grade
Why It’s Worth the Sweat

Sapa → Cat Cat
2 km, mostly downhill
Perfect for easing those city legs into mountain mode. Waterfalls + rice terraces = camera overload.

Sapa → Lao Chai → Ta Van
12 km, rolling terrain
Stay overnight in a homestay, feast on bamboo sticky rice, and wake to roosters crowing over misty paddies.

Fansipan Summit
11 km up, 3,143 m altitude
“Roof of Indochina” bragging rights. Cable‑car cheat code available if cardio isn’t your love language.

Pro Tip: Hire a licensed guide for anything longer than Cat Cat; trails fork like spaghetti, and Google Maps gives up after the first buffalo crossing.

Packing List for the Unprepared (A.K.A. Me)

Waterproof trail runners – those white “running shoes” won’t stay pristine for long.
Poncho or rain shell – Sapa weather flips moods faster than a street‑market pancake.
Quick‑dry socks & a spare pair – nothing ends a trek faster than blister soup.
Small notes (10,000–50,000 VND) – handy for entrance fees, sugar‑cane juice, or tipping a guide.
Reusable tote – if you do buy handicrafts, skip the plastic bag; Mother Earth says thanks.

Supporting the Community—The Ethical Way

Sleep local. Opt for family‑run homestays in Lao Chai or Ta Van. Your room fee funds school supplies and roof repairs, not corporate shareholders.
Eat what grows there. Try thắng cố (mountain stew) or charcoal‑grilled pork skewers sourced from the backyard pen.
Skip plastic bottled water. Most homestays provide refill stations; carry a filter flask if you’re extra cautious.
Ask before photos. A smile and a thumbs‑up go further than a zoom lens shoved in someone’s face.

Timing & Weather Cheatsheet

March–May: Flowering peach trees, cool breezes—trekking gold.
June–August: Lush green terraces, frequent showers; bring that poncho.
September–November: Harvest hues of gold, crisp nights, fewer tourists—chef’s kiss!
December–February: Misty, chilly, and sometimes snowy; pack layers and hot‑chocolate optimism.

FAQ: Trekking from Sapa to Cat Cat Village in Vietnam
Planning a trek to Cat Cat Village or curious about what it’s really like? Here are some of the most common questions travelers ask before (and after!) doing this popular Sapa adventure.
How long does it take to hike from Sapa to Cat Cat Village?
It’s a short and mostly downhill walk of about 2 kilometres, so you can easily reach Cat Cat Village in 30–45 minutes at a leisurely pace. The return trip uphill takes longer, especially if you stop for photos or snacks along the way, so budget around 1.5 hours total for the round-trip.
Do I need a guide for the trek to Cat Cat Village?
Nope, not for this one! The path is straightforward, well-trodden, and clearly signposted. That said, if you’re continuing on to villages like Lao Chai or Ta Van, hiring a licensed guide is a smart move—trails get confusing fast, and it’s nice to have someone who knows the land and the culture.
Is it normal for local Hmong women to walk with tourists?
Yes, totally normal. Many Hmong women join visitors on the path as a way to connect—and eventually to sell their handicrafts. It starts with friendly conversation and often ends with a polite but persistent sales pitch. It’s part of the local trekking experience.
How should I handle the sales pitches without feeling rude?
The best approach is to set expectations early. A warm smile and a lighthearted “Maybe later, I’m just walking for now” goes a long way. If you do want to buy something, pick one vendor, purchase a single item, and explain you can’t carry more. If you’re not interested at all, a clear “Cảm ơn, không cần đâu” (thank you, I don’t need it) while continuing to walk works wonders.
What kind of souvenirs do the Hmong women usually sell?
You’ll mostly see beautiful hand-embroidered bags, coin purses, indigo-dyed scarves, and silver-coloured bracelets. Many of these items are handmade and unique, so if something catches your eye, it can make for a meaningful memento—just be mindful not to overpack your backpack with trinkets like I did!
Is Cat Cat Village worth visiting?
It’s touristy, yes, but it’s also scenic and easy to reach, which makes it a great warm-up hike if you’re new to trekking. You’ll find waterfalls, rice terraces, craft stalls, and plenty of photo ops. It’s not an untouched village experience, but it gives a nice glimpse into local crafts and scenery.
When is the best time of year to trek in Sapa?
March to May is ideal for cool weather and blooming peach trees. September to November is harvest season, when the rice terraces turn a stunning golden hue. Summer (June–August) brings vibrant greens but also regular showers, so pack rain gear. Winter (December–February) can be misty and cold, even with the occasional dusting of snow.
What should I wear and bring for a Cat Cat Village trek?
Wear comfortable walking shoes with some grip (white running shoes won’t stay white for long), and bring a light rain jacket since Sapa’s weather changes quickly. Quick-dry socks, small bills for entrance fees or snacks, and a reusable tote for any purchases are also handy. Oh, and don’t forget water—you’ll want it on the uphill walk back.
How physically demanding is the trek?
On the way down, it’s more of a scenic stroll than a hike. The uphill return is where you’ll feel the burn, but it’s manageable for most people with average fitness levels. Think of it as a gentle introduction to trekking in the mountains.
Can I visit Cat Cat Village without buying souvenirs?
Yes, absolutely. While the sales pitches can be persistent, there’s no requirement to buy anything. A polite but firm “no” combined with steady walking usually does the trick. Most locals won’t take it personally—it’s just business.
Are there entrance fees for Cat Cat Village?
Yes, there’s usually a small entrance fee (bring smaller denominations of Vietnamese đồng, around 10,000–50,000 VND) collected at the gate. This helps maintain the paths and facilities, and sometimes includes access to the waterfall area.
Is this kind of interaction exploitative or supportive of the local community?
That’s a thoughtful question—and it’s a bit of both. Buying directly from local women supports families and keeps traditional crafts alive, but there’s also a commercial element to the encounters. The key is to buy intentionally and respectfully, support homestays or local eateries, and engage with kindness. Ethical tourism is about balance.
Do you have a story about a 'local encounter'?


Chiloé Travel Guide: What to See, Do and Eat on Chiloé Island!

Chiloé is an undiscovered enchantment blessed in nature, rural landscapes, delicious seafood and colourful UNESCO churches.
This windswept archipelago is located in the south of Chile and is the largest island in the country.
Arriving from the high urban sophistication that is Santiago, we immediately noticed the distinctive changes in architecture. Colourful houses sit on stilts along the water edges, covered by traditional wood shingles, which is also the theme for many stylish small hotels and restaurants dotted around the island's capital, Castro.
But perhaps, more striking are the iconic wooden churches, 16 of which are UNESCO world heritage sites found all around the island.
The rich culture, friendly Chilotes (the name given to locals) and peacefully stunning nature, give this isle a truly distinctive identity in South America.
Photo: Atilio Leandro CC BY 2.0
What to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience on Chiloé Island
Castro
Castro is the cosy capital of the Chiloé Province. It is home to the UNESCO San Francisco Church located next to the main plaza, just look out for the flamboyant yellow coloured building and you’ll see it. This unconventional visual delight was built in 1912 to replace an earlier church that had burnt down.
Once you’ve admired the neo-Gothic and classical architecture of the church, wander through the Plaza de Armas where you’ll find a handcraft fair selling all sorts of wonderful items. The plaza hosts the Festival Costumbrista, a celebration of Chilote customs, food, and crafts so if you’re around in February, head down.
It’s best to see the town on foot, so take a stroll from Plaza de Armas and walk up the hill towards the mirador (viewpoint) to get a bird's eye view of the city's unique and colourful timber palafitos houses. These stilt supported homes were once the dwellings of most of the fishermen of Southern Chile.

Ancud
Ancud, the former capital of Chiloé, was an international port until the 20th century. Today it is a mix of traditional Chilote buildings, docks and plazas, government buildings and the Museo Regional de Ancud, which contains exhibits about Chilote culture and mythology.
Other places of interest include the fish, vegetable and handicraft market, the harbour, and the historical centre with its shingled houses.
Muelle de Las Almas (Dock of Souls)
Inspired by the traditional belief that the souls of the dead sail away, a local artist has marked native culture by installing a wooden sculpture, a bridge, near the small village of Cucao. The views from the cliff are remarkable and if you can catch the sunset there, you’re in for a treat.
To get there either rent a car (45-minute drive) or catch a local bus to Cucao (1.5-hour ride). The bus will drop you outside a restaurant called Terrasa de Cucao from where you need to catch another bus to Muelle de las Almas (30-minute ride and the last bus in that direction leaves at 3 pm).
The rest is a scenic 45-minute hike through pleasant woods and fields, taking you to the cliffs and a picturesque bridge.
The last bus departs Muelle de las Almas is at 5.30pm.
Don’t miss it!

Chiloé National Park
If you are going to Muelle de las Almas, then you will pass this place, so make sure you fit it into your schedule. Get lost in this bosky forest and admire a variety of Chilote wildlife, including 110 different birds, foxes and the world’s smallest deer, the pudú. Nature lovers will appreciate this spot.
UNESCO World Heritage Churches
Perhaps one of the things Chiloé is most famous for are its unique churches.
Many were constructed almost entirely from native wood in the Chilote architecture style with each one having its own individual colour scheme.
There are many churches in and around the island and UNESCO has recognised 16 of them for their unique cultural value.
Everything seems to be connected to the sea in Chiloé and the churches are no exception, shipbuilders constructed many of the wooden churches and the designs reflect the techniques of their craft.
You probably won’t manage to see all of them, but try to get to Tenaún for one of the prettiest ones on the island which has a beautiful setting overlooking the ocean.

Cascadas de Tocoihue
The gorgeous waterfalls of Tocoihue are set in a thick green forest and are unique on the island. If you are heading to Tenún, make sure to stop off here.

Isla de las Almas Navigantes
Located 64 kilometres from Castro, in the town of Quemchi, is a tiny island where the souls of sea navigators and locals are laid to rest in a small cemetery.
The path to the all green island resembles a painting, with a beautiful bridge leading to this patch of land is perfect for nature lovers.
The island inhabits a variety of birds, such as the Kinffisher and the Tiuque as well as an abundance of flora. It’s perfect for a short walk.
The place can be explored in just 10 minutes.

Kayaking
Kayaking is a great way to explore the sea channels of the island. Many agencies offer the activity, which takes you around the calm lakes and lagoons as you visit the villages around the island. If you love the water and tranquillity, this one is for you.

What to eat in Chiloé
Chiloé is famed for its hundreds of colourful potatoes, and on this island, they really work well with what nature has gifted them.
Earth ovens are particularly used in Chilote cuisine with hearty portions of shellfish and potatoes.
One traditional dish that’s cooked in this way is curanto; seafood, meat and potatoes are placed on hot coals in a hole dug in the ground, and then covered with large leaves and left to steam.
Seafood is obviously not to be missed here, one of my favourites, ceviche, is prepared to perfection in Castro.
Fortunately, the best place to have this delicious dish also happens to be the cheapest!
Go to Feria Lillo Market in Castro and it will only set you back CLP$3000.
My favourite was the salmon with prawns, but there are many options to choose from. Our friend also bought a small bottle of white wine from a corner shop across the road to complement the ceviche, and that it did!

Another traditional must try, and this one you can easily do yourself, is salmon pizza! They call it Cancato. No, not pizza topped with salmon, the salmon serves as the base of the pizza! That’s right, a healthy pizza!
Well... sort of, at least until you smother it with cheese. We cooked this at our friend's place and topped the fish with chopped onions, garlic, red peppers, tomatoes and lots of parmesan (you can probably top it with whatever ingredients you want), pop it in the oven for about 15-20 minutes and voilà.
Where to stay in Chiloé
Castro is the main city on the island, so it’s a good place to base yourself. There is a variety of accommodations to choose from, so it really depends on what you’re after.
Enjoy Chiloé Hotel De La Isla
This slightly upscale hotel will allow you to enjoy Chiloe complete with a hot tub and sauna. Every room provides cable TV, a private bathroom, and there is free onsite parking.
Hostel Backpacker Chiloe Sur
Situated in Castro, it is one of the best-located hostels. It offers free private parking and a cosy atmosphere for guests, with a continental breakfast included.
Cabins
In a place like Chiloé, lodgings in a cabin are most fitting. We stayed with a friend who had built his own perfect cabin, completely immersed in nature and overlooking the water. It’s the most peaceful and tranquil place to stay.
A lot of the cabins are located on or near the water, completely surrounded by nature and can be found on Airbnb.
If you've never used AirBnB before, you can get a discount here.

How to get to Chiloé
Puerto Montt is the closest mainland bus station to Chiloé, located 1000 km from Santiago. It’s a 13-hour bus journey or 1 hour 50 minutes by plane.
From Puerto Montt, you need to travel a further 90 km southwest towards Pargua, where you have to take the ferry across the Canal de Chacao to get to Chiloé (25-minute ferry ride).
Santiago to Puerto Montt by car takes approximately 13 hours, take Route 5 south to Puerto Montt, and then head southeast toward Pargua.
Travel tips for Chiloé

Hire a car – it’s probably the best and most convenient way to see the island
The best time to go weather-wise is January-March (these are the warmest months)
The coldest months are July-October
The rainiest months are May-August

More Planning For Chiloé: Tips, Routes, Seasons, Food & Logistics

Chiloé rewards the slow traveler: the kind who lets a sea mist morning decide the start time, who leans into long lunches of curanto and ceviche, and who happily detours for a blue-shingled chapel at the end of a gravel lane. The goal: you step off the ferry already oriented, hungry, and ready to explore.

How Long to Stay & Where to Base

Three full days gives you the island’s “greatest hits” without rushing—Castro’s waterfront and churches, the west-coast cliffs (Muelle de las Ánimas / Muelle de las Almas), and a northern loop to Ancud with market snacking. If you’ve got five, layer in quieter east-side peninsulas (Tenaún, Dalcahue, Quinchao) and a kayaking morning.

Aim for 3–5 days; add a sixth if you want Quinchao & Achao churches at a stroll.

Castro = eateries/markets + palafitos; Cucao = park trails + sunsets; Ancud = market & fort history.

With no car, base in Castro near the terminal for buses/minibuses to Cucao, Dalcahue, and Ancud.

Sundays are sleepy; plan church interiors and market tastings for weekdays if you can.

Book Jan–Feb stays earlier; that’s festival & sunshine season.

Stay & Base Cheat Sheet

Time WindowBest HomebaseWhat You’ll Actually ExperienceTiny Tip2 daysCastroPalafitos, San Francisco Church, quick Ancud or Cucao dashPrioritize one west-coast sunset.3 daysCastro (+ Cucao night)Cliffs + park, church-hop, market lunchesPack layers; nights cool down fast.5 daysCastro 3 + Cucao 2Add Quinchao & Tenaún churches, kayak morningSlot a full church cluster day.7 daysSplit Castro/Ancud/CucaoSlow food, farm stays, outer isletsAsk locals about pudú sightings.

A Fuss-Free 3-Day Loop (Car or Bus-Friendly)

Think of the island in arcs: Bay & Palafitos, West-Coast Wild, and North-Coast Markets. Keep drives under 90 minutes and pad the golden hour. This itinerary assumes you prefer long lunches over checklist sprints.

Day 1 (Castro & Tenaún arc): Plaza, San Francisco Church, Feria Lillo ceviche, palafitos stroll; afternoon to Tenaún church + Cascadas de Tocoihue; back to Castro for cancato dinner.

Day 2 (Cucao & Cliffs): Morning Chiloé National Park boardwalks; lazy lunch; Muelle de las Almas walk for the sunset; sleep in Cucao or return to Castro.

Day 3 (Ancud arc): Museo Regional, fish/veg market grazing, Fuerte San Antonio; optional Pinguineras de Puñihuil in season; back roads home with golden-light photo stops.

At-a-Glance Day Plan

TimeFocusWhereTiny Tip09:30Café + colorCastro plaza → San Francisco ChurchLook up: the nave’s woodwork glows in morning light.12:45Market grazeFeria Lillo stallsOrder salmon-prawn ceviche + buy a half-bottle white.15:15Church + fallsTenaún → TocoihueCarry small notes for chapel donations.18:30Palafitos glowGamboa / Pedro MonttReflections peak on wind-still evenings.

Weather & When to Go (What It Feels Like)

Chiloé’s climate is maritime-temperate. Think soft summers, brisk evenings, dependable mist, and rain that makes those forests glow. The best hiking comfort is Jan–Mar.

Mornings can be foggy—photograph after 10:00 or lean into the mist.

West-coast winds pick up mid-afternoon; plan cliff walks for late day.

Markets run rain or shine—stash a packable umbrella.

Shoulder months = cheaper rooms, richer greens.

Ferries, Roads & Rental Reality

Getting to Chiloé is straightforward: Route 5 to Pargua, 25-minute ferry hop, then south toward Castro. Rentals from Puerto Montt make the most sense. Buses and colectivos fill the gaps if you’re car-free.

Ferry runs every ~15–30 minutes; you pay onboard, card accepted.

Keep half-tank minimum—stations thin out near Cucao.

Download offline maps (cell dips in park/peninsulas).

Bus-only plan? Base in Castro; minibuses reach Cucao, Dalcahue, Ancud.

Transport & Perks Cheat Sheet

BudgetTypically IncludesWorth-It UpgradesSave More By€€ (bus/minibus)Regular service to hubsEarlier start to beat crowdsStaying central in Castro.€€€ (small car)Unlimited km, ferry hopExtra driver, gravel coverageWeekday pickup/return.€€€€ (SUV/4×4)Comfort on wet gravelAll-terrain tiresSharing with 3 friends.Private driverCustom day loopsChurch clusters + hidden roadsPair with a small group.

Eat Like a Chilote (Markets, Countryside & Home-Style)

Beyond your lomitos and ceviche, Chiloé’s food sings when it’s earth-ovened, wood-smoked, and potato-rich. Markets are your friend. Countryside cocinerías are your secret.

Try milcao (grated & mashed potato cakes), chapalele (boiled potato dumplings).

Order curanto al hoyo (earth-oven feast) when offered; “a la olla” (pot) is great too.

Cancato DIY: salmon as “pizza crust” with peppers, tomato, cheese.

Drink murta (Chilean guava) liqueur or a chicha sip with locals.

Food Hunt Cheat Sheet

DishWhereWhy It’s GreatBallparkCeviche (salmon+prawns)Feria LilloFresh, fast, friendlyCLP $3,000–4,500CurantoRural cocineríaSmoky sea-meets-land ritualCLP $10,000–15,000Milcao/ChapaleleMarket stallsPotato heritage on a plateCLP $1,500–2,500CancatoYour cabin ovenEasy, shareable, very ChiloéGroceries onlyKüchen sliceGerman-influenced cafésBerry-packed comfortCLP $2,500–3,500

Chiloé Travel Guide: 12-Question FAQ (What to See, Do & Eat)

What and where is Chiloé Island?

Chiloé is a windswept archipelago in southern Chile known for colorful palafitos (stilt houses), wooden UNESCO churches, misty forests, and outstanding seafood. Its capital is Castro.

How many days do I need and where should I base?

3–5 days lets you see Castro, the west-coast cliffs (Muelle de las Almas), Ancud, and a church loop. Base in Castro for markets/food and easy buses; add a night in Cucao for Chiloé National Park sunsets.

When is the best time to visit?

January–March has the warmest, driest weather and festivals. May–August is rainiest; July–October is coldest. Expect foggy mornings and breezy afternoons year-round—pack layers.

How do I get to Chiloé?

From Puerto Montt (13-hr bus or ~1h50 flight from Santiago), drive/bus ~90 km to Pargua, then take the 25-minute ferry across the Canal de Chacao to the island and continue to Castro.

Do I need a car to explore?

A rental car is most convenient for churches, waterfalls, and west-coast viewpoints. Without a car, base in Castro—buses/minibuses reach Ancud, Dalcahue, Cucao and main sights.

What are the must-see highlights?

Castro: San Francisco Church (UNESCO), Plaza de Armas, and palafitos views.

Ancud: market, harbor, regional museum.

Muelle de las Almas near Cucao: dramatic cliff-top “Dock of Souls.”

Chiloé National Park: boardwalks, dunes, and wildlife (including the tiny pudú).

How do I visit Muelle de las Almas (Dock of Souls)?

Go via rental car or bus to Cucao, then onward transport to the trailhead. From there it’s a ~45-minute scenic hike through fields/woods to the ocean cliffs. Wear sturdy shoes, carry wind/rain layers, and check current bus times before you set out.

What’s special about the UNESCO wooden churches?

Built largely from native woods by local shipwrights, each church has unique colors and details. There are 16 UNESCO-listed examples; don’t miss Tenaún, beautifully set above the sea. Bring small cash for donations and be respectful inside.

Are there other nature stops besides the park?

Yes—Cascadas de Tocoihue (lush waterfalls near Tenaún), short coastal walks around Cucao, bird-rich islets like Isla de las Almas Navegantes near Quemchi, and calm-water kayaking in channels and lagoons.

What should I eat on Chiloé?

Curanto (earth-oven feast of shellfish, meats, potatoes)

Ceviche in Castro’s Feria Lillo market (tasty and budget-friendly)

Cancato (salmon “pizza”: salmon base topped with veg and cheese, baked)

Potato classics: milcao and chapalele

Where should I stay?

Castro: wide range from comfy hotels (e.g., with sauna/hot tub) to social hostels.

Cabins: abundant around coasts/estuaries—quiet, nature-immersed, great for DIY cancato nights.

Cucao: small lodges near park trails and west-coast sunsets.

Any practical tips?

Hire a car if you can; download offline maps; keep at least half a tank for west-coast drives; pack a wind/rain shell, sturdy shoes, and a daypack. Sundays can be sleepy—plan church interiors and markets on weekdays. Leave no trace on trails and tide areas.


China Travel Tips, Because It's Not The Easiest Place to Travel...

China travel tips for anyone planning a visit. It's a fascinating country, but it's not the easiest country to travel, so here is my advice to help make your trip to China the best it can be!
I have travelled to many countries where I didn't speak the local language, but I have to say, China is perhaps the toughest country I've tackled to date. Even though I did quite a bit of travel around southeastern China last year I still haven't written much about it, and part of the reason is because I have so many mixed feelings about my time there.
On the one hand, Sam and I got to experience some amazing things; we went biking down dirt roads surrounded by fields and karst mountains, we went rafting down the otherworldly Li River, we witnessed bizarre occurrences like ballroom dancing lessons taking place in an underpass, and watched people ride around on scooters with livestock in the back. There were days when we would be left wide-eyed and with mouth agape muttering "only in China!"

But with all that excitement came plenty of challenges and lows. Travelling in China wasn't easy; we were scammed by a taxi within minutes of arriving in the country, we were met by unhelpful attendants whenever we tried purchasing train tickets (seriously, buying tickets at a Chinese train station is a nightmare!), we found ourselves stranded when our bus broke down and the company decided it was each man for himself, and well, we also learned to be on alert when walking down the sidewalk, because guys, there's a lot of poop on the streets...
China was fascinating, but it was also exhausting. Yes, I would go back to China, but I also think I was a bit naive during my first visit. This is a country that you have to jump into prepared, and I honestly don't think I was. So today, I thought I'd share my China travel tips, advice, insights, and musings for tackling China and hopefully enjoying the experience!

My China Travel Tips: How To Make The Most Of Your Travels Across China
Get ready to deal with the language barrier
One of the factors that makes travel in China so difficult is the language barrier. Don't expect people to speak English even if they work in the travel and tourism sector.
You might have an easier time with this in Shanghai or Beijing, but even Guangzhou, which is a fairly big city, proved to be difficult to manoeuvre.
Either download an app or prepare to use Google Translate on your phone. You're going to need it more than you realize.

Write down addresses
Always, always, ALWAYS have your hotel's address written down in Chinese characters. This is such an important China travel tip, especially for first-time visitors!
Most hotels and guesthouses will have little business cards with the address in both English and Chinese, as well as a map on the back, so be sure to grab one.
This will come in handy if you need to take a taxi back or if you get completely lost and need to ask for directions to find your way back.
Sam and I got lost in Guilin one afternoon without a business card...we walked around one neighbourhood for over an hour before we found our guesthouse.

Use travel agencies to book your travels
I know booking a train ticket sounds so trivial, but have you ever tried booking tickets in China? In my experience it goes a little something like this:
You arrive at the train station and find that there are about 15 different lines, each of these lines have upwards of 20 people and everyone seems to have at least 5 bundles scattered around them. Everything is moving at a snail's pace, so you don't want to choose the wrong line.
Above each teller, there are signs with Chinese characters - presumably listing the destinations, but who really knows. So you start asking around for help by trying to pronounce the name of your destination using every possible intonation. This gets you nowhere so you just stand in the first line and hope things work out. They don't because this line only sells tickets to the capital. The teller sends you over to another line where you proceed to the back of the line and wait again.
A half-hour later you finally arrive at the ticket window and tell the person your desired destination and she looks at you funny. So you start again with the different intonations and scribble down a few numbers to indicate the date. She finally gets it and prints you a ticket, and you hope for the life of you that she really put you on the right train and isn't sending you off to Ürümqi or some equally remote place in northwestern China.
The whole ordeal takes about an hour and it'll either leave you in tears or ready to blow a gasket. Seriously, save yourself the headache and use travel agencies to book your train tickets, bus tickets, tours, or whatever it is you need. This China travel tip will save you a lot of stress.
Another idea is to have your hotel or guesthouse write down detailed instructions for the ticketing agent - your destination, travel dates, number of tickets - and then you can just hand over the slip of paper.
Prepare to disconnect from the internet
Access to Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, and some Google services is restricted in China.
If you really want to stay connected on your social networks, you'll need to get a Virtual Private Network (VPN).
That being said, I found the speeds to be quite abysmal (maybe it was the region we were travelling in?), so even with the use of a VPN I was at a standstill when it came to getting work done.

Focus on one region in China
China is the second-largest country in Asia by landmass. It is massive and it is impossible to tackle it all in one trip.
My travel tip for China is to focus on one region and try to explore it thoroughly.
Consider the distance from one city to the next and think about how much time you actually want to spend getting there.
Get ready to feel like a celebrity
If you're a foreigner, you will likely be stared at and photographed numerous times throughout the day. Sam proved to be particularly popular with locals especially when walking through the markets- maybe it's the red hair and the freckles?!
He'd often have people pull out their cell phones to snap photos, but what I found most amusing was that the locals didn't even try to be discrete about it. They would stand a few feet in front of him, and if they didn't get a shot they liked they would follow him down the street until they did.
Beware of the trough toilet
Oh dear, toilets in China... While hotels and restaurants like McDonald's have Western-style toilets, this won't be the case everywhere you go.
When travelling through more rural regions I often encountered the "trough style" toilet, which is kind of like a squat toilet except a whole lot messier.
Basically, it's a slanted trough with water running down, sometimes there are dividers but these don't do much for privacy when they are only about a meter high, and not all stalls have doors... And that's another thing that shocked me; sometimes even when bathroom stalls did have doors, the women didn't close them! Quite startling to walk into.
These bathrooms are usually quite sloppy, so I don't recommend wearing flip-flops or long, loose pants; I'd opt for running shoes and leggings. Also, it's highly unlikely you'll find toilet paper, so it's best you carry your own.
And you may want to add a bottle of hand sanitiser while you're at it.

Get out there and enjoy nature
I wasn't a huge fan of the cities in China mainly because I found them to be very polluted; toddlers walk around with a rip down their pants so they can poop on the street, people hoark and spit everywhere, and no one seems to pick up after their pooch in the park.
However, I think China has a lot of natural beauty to offer. This country has some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world and if you're willing to seek out some of the harder-to-reach destinations, you'll be left with a completely different view of the country.
Don't fall for the all-too-common scams
I don't like to say it, but China is renowned for its scams. That taxi scam I experienced on my first day in the country, well, it cost me 100x the price of a bus ride, but that's not the only scam out there.
You have the tea ceremony scam where two innocent locals will approach you to practice English and then invite you to a traditional ceremony. Don't fall for it, your new-found friends will disappear and leave you stranded with a bill worth several hundred dollars.
There's also the art school scam where a young student will invite you to an art gallery to look at their work and then pressure you to buy one of their pieces for an outrageous sum. I've heard lots of accounts of "security" showing up to impede a quick exit.
These are just a few of the most common scams you'll hear about. Bottom line, be on alert and if something feels a little off or it seems too good to be true, it probably is, so bolt on out of there!

Bring lots of food for long train journeys
Sometimes the food will be delicious and other times there will be NO FOOD at all!
I once made the mistake of boarding the train for a 14-hour journey without any snacks.
I was under the impression that food would be available on such a long trip, but the dining carriage didn't open for dinner or breakfast, and there were no pushcarts selling chips or instant noodles.
Thus, I was not a happy traveller that day. So my China travel tip for trains is to bring all the snacks you think you might need just to be safe.
Be prepared for plans to change without warning
It was the day before the Moon Cake Festival when Sam and I left Yangshuo (hotels decided to triple their prices and that kind of drove us away). We were scheduled to leave on the last bus out of town which was departing at 4:30 p.m., but then the bus broke down.
We went back to the ticketing office and this is when we discovered there was no replacement bus and no driver to get us out of Yangshuo since everyone had already taken off for the holidays. It was every man for himself.
People bolted for whatever taxis were left in the lot, and us? We ended up having to pay another driver to let us ride in his already-busting-at-the-seams bus.
Some people sat cross-legged on the aisle; Sam and I ended up sitting on the steps right next to the driver.
Lesson learned? Tickets don't guarantee a departure and sometimes you have to be resourceful.

Is China worth visiting?
I'd like to finish off by saying that in spite of the challenges we experienced in China, I still think it's a fascinating country to visit.
This post isn't meant to dissuade anyone from travelling to China, on the contrary, I think you should go. But I also think this is a country where you have to come prepared and be ready to face daily road bumps.
Hopefully, these China travel tips help make the journey a smoother one!

More China On-the-Ground Travel Advice & Tips

Train/Bus Booking With Relative Ease

StepWhat You PrepPhrase Card to ShowTiny Tip1Destination + date + time window written in Chinese + digits我要去…；…月…日；下午可以 (wǒ yào qù…; …yuè …rì; xiàwǔ kěyǐ – I want to go to… on …, afternoon is okay)Ask your hotel to write this neatly.2Seat/berth preference高铁/二等座/软卧 (gāotiě / èrděngzuò / ruǎnwò)Gāotiě = high-speed; ruǎnwò = soft sleeper.3ID ready护照 (hùzhào – passport)Keep passport in hand—no rummaging.4Payment现金/银行卡都可以 (xiànjīn / yínhángkǎ dōu kěyǐ)Keep small bills visible.5Verify请帮我确认车次和座位 (qǐng bāng wǒ quèrèn chēcì hé zuòwèi)Cross-check train # + car + seat before you step aside.

Language Barrier Toolkit (Phrases That Actually Get You Unstuck)

SituationSay/Show ThisPinyinUse It Like This“Taxi to my hotel”请带我去这个地址。qǐng dài wǒ qù zhège dìzhǐHand the hotel card, point to the map.“Where’s the toilet?”洗手间在哪里？xǐshǒujiān zài nǎlǐ?Also look for WC signage.“No spicy”不要辣。bú yào làAdd 一点点 (yì diǎndiǎn – a little) if you can handle mild.“I’m vegetarian”我吃素。wǒ chī sùFor no meat/seafood/stock, add 不要肉/海鲜/肉汤.“Allergic to peanuts”我对花生过敏。wǒ duì huāshēng guòmǐnPoint to the line on your phone and mime.“I don’t understand”我听不懂。wǒ tīng bù dǒngSmile, open translate app, type, not just speak.“No, thank you”不要，谢谢。bú yào, xièxieFirm + friendly to touts.“Use the meter”请打表。qǐng dǎ biǎoSay it before the taxi moves.“Receipt”发票fāpiàoHelpful for expense claims/returns.

Getting Online: Connectivity Cheat Sheet

OptionWhere to GetProsConsPro TipeSIM (pre-trip)Your phone’s eSIM storeWorks on landing; no shop huntCheck device compatibilityDownload QR before flight.Local SIMCarrier shop, mall kiosksCheap data; local numberPassport registration; staff may not speak EnglishAsk hotel staff to write your request.Hotel Wi-FiHotels, cafésEasiestVariable speeds; sign-in hoopsAsk for no-password network or daily vouchers.VPN (if you use one)Pre-installAccess some blocked servicesMay be slow/spotty; check local rulesDecide before you go; have Plan B (alt apps).

Moving Around: Metro, Taxi, Didi, Feet

ModeUse WhenHow to PayDoDon’tMetroCross-city, rush hourReloadable transit cardStand right on escalators; keep bag frontBlock doors; pause at top of stairsTaxiLate night, heavy bagsCash/card where availableSay 请打表; carry hotel cardGet in unmarked carsDidi (ride-hailing)App comfortIn-appLet hotel set pickup pinAssume drivers read EnglishBusShort hopsSmall bills/QRGive up seats for elderlyBoard without checking directionWalkingOld towns, rivers—Watch bike/scooter lanesTrust cars to yield

Toilets & Hygiene: The Reality Kit

Pack ThisWhyMicro-RoutinePocket tissues + wet wipesTP isn’t guaranteedRestock at convenience stores nightlyHand sanitizerSinks/soap can be scarceUse after door handleAnkle socks/closed shoesFloors can be wetAvoid long hems that dragLight scarf“Doorless” stalls happenQuick privacy screen

Learn the squat stance before you arrive. And yes, some rural facilities are trough-style—brace yourself, breathe, be quick.

Long Trains: Food, Berths & What to Pack

Car/ClassWhat It IsProsConsNotes高铁 二等座 (HSR 2nd)High-speed seatFast, clean, assigned seatingLittle storageGreat for ≤6 hrs硬卧 (Hard sleeper)6-berth open baysSocial, affordableNoise, top bunks hotBring earplugs + eye mask软卧 (Soft sleeper)4-berth cabin w/ doorPrivacy, comfier mattressPricierLock valuables inside bag普快/绿皮车Slow “green” trainsCheap, scenicLong, basicOnly if you’re truly curious

Scam Radar: Red Flags → Safe Exits

ApproachRed FlagsSay/DoExit Line (Show/Repeat)“Practice English? Tea ceremony?”Invites to private room; vague pricesSmile, step back, keep walking朋友在等我。不好意思。 (péngyǒu zài děng wǒ. bù hǎoyìsi – “My friend is waiting, sorry.”)“Student art show”Pressure to “support”Only view art in public, fixed-price spaces我现在不买。谢谢。 (wǒ xiànzài bù mǎi. xièxie – “Not buying now, thanks.”)Taxi “fixed price”No meter; detour claimsInsist meter; if not, exit不用了，谢谢。 (bù yòng le, xièxie – “No need, thanks.”)“Broken” meterMeter covered/offGet out before moving换一辆车。 (huàn yí liàng chē – “We’ll take another car.”)

Focus on One Region (3 Easy Builder Blocks)

BaseDaysHopsWhy This WorksGuilin/Yangshuo5–7Li River, Xingping, Longji rice terracesKarst views + bike paths; sprinkle in a cooking classYunnan (Kunming–Dali–Lijiang)8–12Stone Forest, Erhai lakeshore, Jade Dragon snow viewsBig scenery + old towns; altitude ramps graduallyZhejiang–Anhui6–9Hangzhou West Lake, Wuzhen watertown, Huangshan“Soft” landscapes, classic China feel, great trains

Rule of thumb: 2–3 nights per stop; keep transfers ≤4 hours when possible.

Seasons, Air & Packing Lite

SeasonWeather VibeCrowd LevelPack ExtrasSpring (Mar–May)Mild; rain burstsGrowingLight rain shell, quick-dry shoesSummer (Jun–Aug)Hot/humid; stormsHighElectrolytes, sun hat, small towelAutumn (Sep–Nov)Clear; comfySweet spotLayerable fleece, mask for AQI daysWinter (Dec–Feb)North = very cold; South = cool/dampLowerHeat packs, lip balm, merino base layer

China Travel Tips FAQ: Language Barrier, Trains, Toilets, Scams, VPNs, and Route Planning (12 Q&As)

1) Is China hard to travel if I don’t speak Mandarin?

It’s doable but tougher than most destinations. Assume little English outside major hubs. Carry address cards in Chinese characters, use an offline translate app, and rely on simple phrase cards for taxis, tickets, and meals.

2) How do I avoid train-station chaos when buying tickets?

Use your hotel/agency to book in advance and write a one-line request in Chinese (route/date/seat type). If you must queue, arrive early, bring passport, and verify train #, car, and seat/berth before stepping aside.

3) Should I focus on one region or try to see it all?

Focus. China is vast—build a regional loop (e.g., Guilin–Yangshuo–Longji; Yunnan; Zhejiang–Huangshan) and cap transfers at ≤4 hours where possible.

4) What’s the internet reality (VPNs, blocked apps)?

Many Western platforms are restricted. If you use a VPN, install and test before arrival and have backups: local email/notes, offline maps, and alternative messaging. Expect variable speeds.

5) Any taxi and rideshare tips?

Use metered taxis (say “请打表, qǐng dǎ biǎo”) or rideshare pickup pins set by your hotel. Avoid unmarked cars, carry small bills, and keep your hotel card handy.

6) What about common scams—and how do I exit politely?

Watch for “tea ceremony” and “student art” invites, and taxis refusing the meter. Smile, step back, and say “不要, 谢谢” (No, thanks). If pressed: “朋友在等我” (My friend is waiting) and walk.

7) What are toilets like—and what should I pack?

Expect squat toilets, sometimes trough-style in rural areas. Carry tissues, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, and wear closed shoes. Practice the squat stance before you go.

8) How should I handle the “celebrity effect” (photos, stares)?

It happens—especially outside Tier-1 cities. A friendly “不可以, 谢谢” (No photos, thanks) plus a smile sets boundaries. Keep moving if someone persists.

9) Trains: which class should I pick, and what food strategy works?

HSR 2nd class is clean and fast for day hops. For overnights, choose soft sleeper (4-berth) for privacy. Always bring snacks + water—dining cars may close or run out.

10) How flexible do my plans need to be?

Very. Holiday surges and occasional breakdowns happen. Build buffer time, keep cancellable bookings, and have Plan B transport (next train, different bus, rideshare).

11) How can I enjoy nature and avoid city fatigue?

Balance big cities with karst countryside, rice terraces, lakes, and mountain parks. Cleaner air, quieter nights, and slower travel days will reboot your energy.

12) Is China worth it despite the challenges?

Yes—if you arrive prepared and patient. With phrase cards, address slips, pre-booked tickets, and a flexible mindset, the rewards—food, scenery, culture, and “only-in-China” moments—far outweigh the friction.

If you're planning your travels across China, you may also enjoy:

The Women of the Red Yao Tribe & the Longest Hair in the World!

Visiting Yangshuo: The Town of Karst Mountains

Ping’An and the Longji Rice Terraces In Guangxi

Travelling Down the Li River on a Raft


Climbing Namsan and Seoul Tower in Autumn For Epic Fall Colors!

Remember how a few months ago I was raving that spring in Seoul is the best time of year? Well, I changed my mind - autumn is! Sure, it's a little nippy and I've already taken to wearing leggings, wool socks, a fleece, touque, and mittens, but once you're all bundled up in your warmest layers, it's still nice enough to spend some time outdoors.
Seeing this as one of our last opportunities to explore the city while the colours are at their brightest, this past weekend the boy and I ventured to Namsan (남산).

Namsan, which translates to South Mountain, is located north of the Han River in the city of Seoul. You can reach the peak by cable car, but we opted to get off the subway at Myeongdong (명동) and walk uphill from there.

With a 262 meter peak, it's certainly not the most daunting mountain out there, but the hundreds of steps were quite the workout.

There were plenty of couples, families, and young friends out that day enjoying the beautiful weather. In true Korean fashion, many of them were clad in their best hiking gear; almost a year in to my time in Korea, it still makes me chuckle to see people sporting hiking boots and walking sticks in the city.

These round mirrors have become a photo op every time I see one. They can be found methodically placed at every curve, sharp turn, and underground exit across the country.

The trees at Namsan were a their most vibrant with shades of gold, ochre, vermillion and tangerine. I thought the best of the season was past us, but clearly autumn had one last little surprise for us.

These little leaves remind me of the maple trees back at home. It's like a little slice of Canada in this faraway land.

Here's to looking giddy on a Sunday afternoon. What's there to smile about? Could be the pretty colours, the redhead behind the camera, or the fact that I now have less than 100 days in the country which means I am already daydreaming of the tropics. Tickets have been booked but I'm not telling you where to just yet!

Our reason for climbing up to Namsan was to put 'love locks' on the fence located at the base of the tower. You can expect a post on that soon.

Plan Your Own Namsan Autumn Adventure

Getting There Made Simple

Subway + Stroll: Hop off at Myeong‑dong Station (Line 4, Exit 3), veer left onto Toegye‑ro, and follow the signs uphill toward the cable‑car platform—perfect if you fancy the full stair workout.

Namsan Sunhwan Shuttle Bus: Routes 01, 02 or 05 loop the base every 15 minutes from Seoul Station, Itaewon, or Dongguk Univ. The tap‑on fare is ₩1,300 and saves your calves for tower steps.

Cable Car Shortcut: A round‑trip ticket costs ₩14,000 (one‑way ₩11,000). Go before 10 a.m. on weekends to skip the snake‑long queue—and to catch that dreamy morning mist twirling around the karst‑like peaks.

Timing Those Colours Like a Pro
Peak foliage on Namsan usually hits the last week of October through the first week of November. Aim for weekdays and arrive before noon; the leaves glow under slanted sunlight, and you’ll avoid the afternoon selfie stampede.
Choose Your Climb (Two Fun Options)

Route
Distance & Grade
Highlights

Myeong‑dong Stairs
1.2 km • ~30 min • steady incline
Panoramic mirrors, cheeky street art, and snack stalls selling hotteok (honey pancakes) mid‑way.

Seoul City Wall Trail
2.1 km • ~45 min • rolling
Follows 14th‑century fortress stones, offers postcard views over Bukchon Hanok Village, and feels delightfully off‑tourist‑radar.

What to Pack (Beyond the Obvious)

Reusable coffee tumbler – fill with holicong (sweet cinnamon tea) from the base café and sip while leaf‑spotting.

Tripod‑ready phone holder – mirrors and cable‑car vistas cry out for steady panorama shots.

Mini lock & Sharpie – for the “Locks of Love” fence; they sell sets by the tower, but they’re triple the price.

Tower Treats & Ticket Math

Experience
Adult Price*
Worth It?

Observatory Deck
₩21,000
Yes for 360° neon city‑scapes after dusk.

Digital Observatory
₩27,000
Skip unless you adore VR exhibits.

Combo (Tower + Hanbok photo booth)
₩31,500
Great date‑day souvenir—choose autumn‑toned hanbok for an Insta‑pop of colour.

*Check Klook or Trazy for 10‑15 % e‑vouchers.

Leafy Photo Hotspots

Gingko Avenue (just left of the cable‑car exit): a tunnel of saffron leaves that carpet the walkway by mid‑November.

Paljakjeong Pavilion: octagonal gazebo framing ruby maples—best at sunset when the sky blushes to match.

Love Locks Fence: angle upward toward the tower; the crimson foliage provides a natural vignette around pastel padlocks.

Post‑Hike Warm‑Ups

Hotteok Alley (Myeong‑dong Exit 6): molten brown‑sugar pancakes for ₩2,000.

Myeong‑dong Kyoja: steaming knife‑cut kalguksu noodles—lines move fast, and bowls arrive faster.

Banana‑latte at Café Namsan: third‑floor perch overlooking the glowing tower—ideal for editing photos while fingers thaw.

At-a-Glance Day Plan (Leaf-Glow to City-Glow)

TimeFocusWhereTiny Tip09:00Warm-up wanderMyeong-dong back lanes → cable-car stairsGrab a sweet hotteok & drip coffee to go; peel a layer as you climb.10:00Leaf tunnelsGinkgo Avenue just left of cable-car exitShoot wide upward—gold leaves + tower base make a perfect frame.10:45Quiet cornersPaljakjeong Pavilion & woodland loopsSwitch to portrait mode; maple reds sing against the pavilion’s teal roof.12:00Lunch breakBack down to Myeong-dong Kyoja or a cozy alley bibimbap shopKalguksu noodle soup warms frozen fingers in five minutes.14:00History sidetrackSeoul City Wall segment toward SungnyemunLess crowded after lunch; stone textures pop in soft light.16:15Sunset set-upReturn to tower plazaStake a railing spot; blue hour hits ~20–30 min after sunset.18:00Night viewObservatory deckCity gridlines sparkle; have one lens cloth ready for window glare.19:30Snack & thawCafé Namsan (bananas-latte) or street odeng (fishcake skewers)Salt + broth = life.20:15Neon strollCable car down; wander Euljiro or Myeong-dong lightsClear umbrella turns drizzle into movie scenes.

Pocket Checklist Cheat Sheet

ItemWhy It HelpsUse It WhenThin gloves + earbandWind nips first at fingers & earsCable-car deck, tower rooftopPackable shellBlocks gusts without bulkRidge paths, after-sunset chillReusable tumblerHot tea stays hot on benchesPavilion breaks, tower queuesMini tripod / phone clampStable night shots through glassObservatory & blue hourMicrofiber clothWipe window smudges63-second difference in clarityFine-tip marker + mini lockLove-lock fun without plaza markupBring your own; decorate over coffee

Foliage Timing, Crowds & Tiny Wins

WindowLikely LookCrowd LevelTiny TipOct 20–27Maples ignite; pines deepen greenModerateStart from City Wall side—earlier colour, fewer hikers.Oct 28–Nov 5Peak mosaic: crimson + copper + goldHighBe on the stairs by 9:30; leave tower deck for blue hour.Nov 6–12Ginkgo gold carpets pathsModerateBring a lint brush—leaf glitter is real.Nov 13–20Bare branches, painterly late lightLowLean into silhouettes; tower nightscape carries the day.

10 tiny truths that make the day smoother

Mornings > afternoons for both light and lines.

Walk up, ride down is easier on knees (and photos look different in reverse).

Blue hour beats sunset at the deck—wait ~25 minutes after the sun dips.

Glove liners keep phone taps precise; mitts don’t.

Ban on drones is real—security will spot them in seconds.

Bring your lock if you must; plaza prices are tourist math.

Two lens cloths: one for glass (deck), one for lens (mist).

Heels + leaves = ice rink. Grippy soles are autumn gold.

Shuttle timing: last loops thin after 9 p.m.—screenshot the timetable at your starting stop.

Don’t just look up—some of the best frames are leaf carpets with tower shadows stretching long.

Namsan & N Seoul Tower in Autumn: 12-Question FAQ (Leaf-Peeping, Routes, Locks & Night Views)

1) When do autumn colors peak on Namsan?

Late October to early November is the sweet spot. Maples blaze first (crimson/orange), then ginkgoes turn saffron and carpet the paths. Aim for weekday mornings for quieter trails and gorgeous slanted light.

2) What’s the easiest way to get there?

Three solid options:

Subway + walk: Myeong-dong Station (Line 4, Exit 3) → follow signs uphill to the cable-car base, then take stairs/trails.

Namsan Sunhwan Shuttle (01/02/05): loops from Seoul Station, Itaewon, Dongguk Univ; tap your transit card.

Cable car: Quick ride to the tower plaza; busiest afternoons/weekends.

3) Walk or ride—what route do you recommend?

If you like a little sweat: Myeong-dong Stairs (about 30 min, steady incline) with snack stalls and mirror-photo pit stops.For history + views: Seoul City Wall Trail (about 45 min, rolling) alongside 14th-century stones and skyline overlooks.Pro tip: Walk up, ride down—kinder on knees and you get two perspectives.

4) How crowded does it get, and when should I go?

Bluebird weekends can be packed. Go before noon for lighter crowds and luminous color, or return at blue hour (20–30 minutes after sunset) for the city’s glow without midday queues.

5) Is the cable car worth it in autumn?

Yes for a scenic shortcut and foliage panoramas. Expect lines on weekends—earlier is better. If queues look wild, hike up and take the cable car down instead.

6) What about tickets for the observatory—worth the money?

If you love skyline photography or just want a 360° look at Seoul, the observatory deck is a highlight, especially at dusk/blue hour. Prices change—check current rates or an e-voucher app for small discounts.

7) Where are the best leaf-photo spots?

Ginkgo Avenue near the cable-car exit (golden tunnel).

Paljakjeong Pavilion (teal eaves + scarlet maples).

Love Locks Fence (frame the tower with foliage bokeh).Pack a microfiber cloth for glass reflections up top.

8) Can I still do the “love locks” thing? What should I bring?

Yes—the fence by the tower is covered in them. Bring a small lock + marker from home (cheaper than plaza sets). Be considerate: avoid chaining locks to trees or historic structures.

9) What should I wear/pack for a chilly fall climb?

Light layers (base + fleece), windproof shell, gloves/earband, comfy grippy shoes. A reusable tumbler for hot tea, small umbrella, and a mini tripod/phone clamp for night shots through glass.

10) Any food stops nearby for a warm-up?

Hotteok stalls on the way up/down (molten brown-sugar pancakes).

Myeong-dong Kyoja for knife-cut kalguksu.

Café Namsan by the plaza for a perch with views while fingers thaw.

11) Is it family-/dog-friendly and safe at night?

Trails and plazas are well-lit and patrolled; solo visitors are common. Dogs are fine on outdoor trails/decks; carriers usually required in the cable car. Always verify the last cable-car run if you’re staying late.

12) Any tiny pro tips to upgrade the experience?

Mornings > afternoons for both color and lines.

Blue hour beats sunset for observatory photos.

Two cloths: one for windows, one for lenses.

Phone gloves (thin liners) keep taps precise.

Screenshot shuttle timetables at your start stop.

What's your favourite city in the fall?