Visiting Petra, Jordan Travel Guide: Explore the Lost City Of Petra!

There are some places so special that it doesn't matter how many times you've seen them in documentaries, textbooks or postcards, they still manage to exceed all of your expectations.
For me, Petra was that place.
The long walk down The Siq was both a history lesson and a time to marvel at nature as we entered like minuscule ants into the mouth of the great canyon.
It's no wonder Petra remained lost and forgotten to much of the Western world for as long as it did - enclosed by towering rocks and accessible via a long, narrow canyon, this place isn't exactly easy to reach.

The stories on the wall
Having our guide Mohammad along for the journey really helped bring Petra to life. While my eyes just saw walls of red rock, he was able to point out unique natural formations and small details which helped reveal the history of the Nabateans.
Every so often Mohammed would pull our group aside and have us study the rock formations.
"Do you see the fish from this angle?"
"Ahhhhh, yes, a fish!" we would agree as we stared at the rock as though we were admiring a Picasso.
"How about from this side? Now it's a human face."
"Ahhhhh, a human face," we would agree again as a new figure was revealed.
"Now from this angle; do you see the golfer?" Mohammed continued.
Ever so trusting, we would squint our eyes, tilt our heads, and crane our necks back trying to identify what our guide was seeing. That's when we would hear Mohammed quietly laughing at us while we naively tried to spot a rock formation that didn't exist.
He was certainly a lot of fun to have around.

Further down in the canyon, Mohammad stopped again to examine a few faint remains of a wall carving that would have been truly impressive in its heyday. He outlined figures that my inexperienced eyes had initially missed - a three camel caravan led by a man.
"Do you see something on the man's sandal?" he asked us. "Look closely."
We peered closer looking for traces of ancient markings. What kind of cryptographic message had the Nabateans left behind for us to discover?
With our eyes inches away from the sandal, he revealed the big secret.
It says made in China!"
Of course...
Wedding bells ringing
Ever the trickster, Mohammad stopped in front of two niches carved into the wall.
"What do you think this is?"
We all looked at each other...were we supposed to see the outline of yet another figment of his imagination, or were we really missing something?
"Urinals" he exclaimed, "these are old urinals! See?"
"Ohhh..." we nodded in agreement. That made sense, every man needs a place to relieve himself in the canyon.
Next he pointed to Samuel and me.
"You two, come stand in the urinals."
I found it odd that I was selected to demonstrate how a man would stand in these ancient urinals, but I stepped up to the plate nonetheless and turned to face the wall as though I were about to pee like a man.
"No, no" he laughed at me, "turn around this way."
He took my hand in his right and Sam's hand in his left and starting humming a rather familiar tune, "dun dun da-dun, dun dun da-duuuun" - the wedding march!
He smiled that great mischievous smile of his revealing that these so called ancient urinals were really a chapel.
Good thing our friend Anne was on hand to capture the union.

A glimpse of the Treasury
After our casual wedding ceremony, we continued walking down the canyon enroute to Petra. Of course, our guide Mohammad had yet another little trick up his sleeve.
Still talking about the Nabateans, he stopped in the middle of the gorge to point at a rock high above us.
"Look at that unique carving overhead!"
I stared up in the general direction he was pointing at and was blinded by the light streaming down through the canyon. What was he talking about?
Right about that time we joined up with another group of travellers we knew and one of the team members was playing the Indiana Jones theme song on her speakers - we had to be getting closer to the Lost City! I, however, was oblivious to whatever was happening because I was too busy trying to follow Mohammad's instructions...
As I turned around to ask Mohammad to point again at whatever rock he was referring to, I realized that I had my back to the Treasury! Yes, just behind me through a thin opening in the canyon, I could see the Lost City of Petra all lit up in that familiar shade of burnt orange.
We were here!

I honestly couldn't have asked for a better reveal!
Even though we had been walking towards Petra, I hadn't been expecting the Lost City to come into view so soon. I was laughing out loud and grinning so hard it hurt when I finally saw it.
Once we walked out of the canyon, I stood in front of the Treasury for a good 15 minutes before I could even bring myself to continue exploring the rest of the grounds.
And then came the next surprise - did you know there is a whole lot more to Petra than just the Treasury? I hadn't bothered reading up on the place before visiting - I wanted to be surprised - but because of my lack of research, I also had no idea that Petra was such a vast city with so many tombs and temples.
I was in for a real treat!
The far corners of the Rose City
If you're travelling to Jordan and you're coming all the way down to Petra, do yourself a favour and plan to spend a few days exploring the extent of it.
For starters, it takes anywhere between 45 minutes to 1 hour to walk into Petra through the Siq and reach the Treasury, however, once you are there, there is a lot more exploring left to do!

The road which winds through the city will lead you past a number of attractions including the theatre, the Urn Tomb, the Corinthian Tomb, the Palace Tomb, the Cardo Maximus, the Great Temple, the Columbarium, the Winged Lion's Temple, and if that's not enough, you can then climb the 850 steps up to the Monastery.
If you're interested in visiting any of the tombs and temples along the way, you'll sometimes have to detour and begin hiking uphill until you reach the entrance to these impressive structures. It's hard work in the searing desert heat, and you'll want to plan for a few breaks to rehydrate along the way.
And after all this, you can also experience Petra by Night - imagine the grounds lit by candlelight and the opportunity to listen to Bedouin music in this truly magical setting.

During my day in Petra, I managed to make it as far as the Cardo Maximus and the Great Temple - an area that was sprinkled with the ruins of Roman buildings that did not withstand the earthquakes this region experienced. I truly felt like I was walking through an archaeological excavation.
As we walked through this area, Mohammad pointed out the outlines of buildings and the shards of pottery on the ground that belonged to the various civilizations that passed through here - Nabateans, Greeks, Romans. He told us how during a previous tour he had found a large hand-painted ceramic just lying in the dirt; he carefully dug around it and lifted this ancient fragment, amazed that it was so well preserved considering it was covered by no more than a light layer of red sand. This piece was now in a museum, but he explained that there is so much work still to be done in Petra that archaeologists can hardly keep up.
This statement was further reinforced when I went for a walk later that afternoon and spotted locals selling shards of ancient pottery to tourists. I was slightly horrified that for a handful of dollars any tourist could walk away with a piece of Jordanian history to display back at home. Surely these pieces need to be in museums, but then again, when there is so much of it just lying in the sand, it's difficult to protect.

Practical Tips: Getting the Most Out of Your Visit to Petra

🕰 How Much Time Do You Need in Petra?

Short answer: At least two full days, if not three or even four!

Why two or more days? The sheer scale of Petra is impossible to cover in one go. From the moment you pass through the Siq and catch that first jaw-dropping glimpse of the Treasury, you’ll realize there’s a LOT more to discover—like the Monastery, Royal Tombs, and hidden hiking trails.

Sample itinerary:

Day 1: Classic route—Siq, Treasury, Street of Facades, Royal Tombs, Great Temple, Petra Church, Cardo Maximus.

Day 2: Early start to climb to the Monastery (Al-Deir) or the High Place of Sacrifice, then explore less-visited corners or revisit your favorite spots in better light.

Day 3: Use this for the back trails, like hiking to the viewpoint above the Treasury, visiting Little Petra, or booking a guided excursion for a fresh perspective.

Stay LengthWhat You Can Realistically DoIdeal For1 DayTreasury, Street of Facades, Royal Tombs, quick peek at the Great Temple.Cruise-ship stopovers & bullet-travellers.2 DaysEverything above plus Monastery hike, High Place of Sacrifice loop, Petra by Night.“Classic” Jordan itinerary.3 DaysAdd back-door Monastery route, Wadi Muthlim canyon scramble, time for detailed photography or sketching.Photographers, families, slow travellers.4+ DaysTack on Jabal Haroun (Aaron’s Tomb), Beidha (Neolithic village near Little Petra), or a guided eco-hike to Wadi Araba.Archaeology buffs & trekkers with time to linger.

🌄 Petra by Night: Is It Worth It?

What to expect: The iconic walk through the candlelit Siq to the Treasury, where you’re greeted by hundreds of flickering lanterns. Bedouin musicians play the rababa and oud, and sweet mint tea is served.

Pros: Atmospheric, mystical, and photogenic. It’s a totally different vibe from the busy daylight hours.

Cons: Can get crowded, and the experience is more about ambiance than detailed sightseeing (the Treasury is only lit by candles, not floodlights).

Verdict: If you love magical settings and want to see Petra in a new light (literally!), go for it. Just temper your expectations—it’s more mood than monument.

Pros

1,500 candles lining the Siq—a literal star path.

Bedouin flute echoes off canyon walls.

Stellar astrophotography if you bring a tripod.

Cons

Tripods outlawed at Treasury façade (must shoot from seated spot).

Can feel crowded; 300–500 people on busy nights.

👟 What to Pack & Wear for Petra

Footwear: Good, sturdy walking shoes are a must—there’s a LOT of walking, much of it on uneven ground and dusty trails.

Clothing: Lightweight layers, a sunhat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen. Even in cooler months, the sun is fierce.

Water: Bring more than you think you’ll need! There are small kiosks at key sites, but prices rise the deeper you go into Petra.

Snacks: Energy bars or fruit are great for keeping your stamina up during long hikes.

Camera/Phone: Spare batteries and/or a power bank—you’ll be snapping nonstop.

ItemWhy It Matters2-litre hydration bladderHands-free sipping; refill at Basin & Qasr al-Bint taps.Electrolyte tabletsDesert heat nukes salt levels.Quick-dry scarf / shemaghSunshade, sweat rag, impromptu towel.Grippy trail sneakersThe Siq is smooth, side-trails are not.HeadlampEssential if Petra by Night or late exit from High Place.Ziploc bagSandproof your phone during donkey dust storms.1-JD coinsPay-per-use toilets near the Theatre.

🏛 Lesser-Known Corners of Petra: Hidden Highlights

Petra isn’t just the Treasury! Check out these less-touristed gems:

The High Place of Sacrifice: A short, steep climb, but totally worth it for panoramic views over the entire city and a real sense of Petra’s grandeur.

The Monastery (Al-Deir): Fewer crowds than the Treasury, a massive façade, and a great café for a mint tea reward at the top. (It’s 850+ steps up—pace yourself!)

The Byzantine Church: Ancient mosaics, tucked away from the main drag, and a peaceful spot for a mid-hike break.

The Royal Tombs & Silk Tomb: Stunning colors in the rock, and if you catch them at sunset, the golden hour glow is unforgettable.

Little Petra (Siq al-Barid): About 10 minutes by car from Wadi Musa, this mini-version has its own charm and is much quieter than main Petra.

🍽 Eating in Petra and Wadi Musa

Long days exploring call for hearty food and plenty of water. Some ideas:

Inside Petra: There are small stands selling tea, coffee, snacks, and even basic meals near the main archaeological sites.

Outside (Wadi Musa): For a more local dining experience, try Jordanian specialties like mansaf (lamb with yogurt sauce), maglouba (upside-down rice casserole), and endless mezze.

Petra Kitchen: Book a cooking class to learn to make local favorites and bond with fellow travelers. It’s a fun and delicious way to round out your Petra adventure.

🏨 Where to Stay: Making Wadi Musa Your Base

Wadi Musa is the gateway town to Petra and has options for every budget:

Hostels & Budget: Petra Gate Hostel, Rafiki Hostel, Valentine Inn, Rocky Mountain Hotel.

Mid-range: Petra Moon Hotel, La Maison, Petra Guesthouse.

Splurge: Movenpick Resort Petra (directly across from the entrance!), Petra Marriott, Hayat Zaman.

CategoryPropertyPerksBudget/NightShoestringRocky Mountain HotelRooftop sunset terrace, free shuttles to gate35 JD dblMid-rangePetra GuesthouseSteps from Siq entry, on-site Cave Bar90 JD dblSplash-outMövenpick Resort PetraPool, ice-cream bar, endless breakfast mezze160 JD dbl

📷 Essential Photo Spots

The Siq: Capture the “first peek” of the Treasury as you round the final bend.

Treasury: Best light is mid-morning or late afternoon; early morning is quietest.

Monastery: The viewpoint opposite the Monastery façade (climb a little higher for the classic shot).

High Place of Sacrifice: Sweeping city panoramas.

Royal Tombs: Sunset is pure magic.

A Day-Planner Cheat Sheet

HourActionNotes06:00Gate opens. Power-walk Siq.Photos minus crowds.07:30Grab coffee at Treasury stall.2 JD—worth every dinar.08:00Climb Monastery (850 steps).Shade till ~09:30.10:30Lemon-mint at Monastery café.Order extra ice.11:30Descend, explore Royal Tombs.Camel photobombs galore.13:00Buffet lunch at Basin OR picnic.Rest those calves.14:30High Place of Sacrifice loop.Gold light filters in.17:00Treasury again for sunset hues.Fewer people now.18:00Exit Siq, back to Wadi Musa.Shower, power-nap.20:00Return for Petra by Night (Mon/Wed/Thu).Tickets checked at gate.

Ticket Talk & Jordan Pass Math

1-Day Pass: 50 JD

2-Day Pass: 55 JD

3-Day Pass: 60 JD

If you purchase the Jordan Pass before arrival, Petra entry is already bundled and your 40 JD visa fee is waived, so the pass pays for itself if you plan to visit at least three main attractions (Petra, Wadi Rum, Jerash, etc.).

Petra by Night costs 17 JD and is not included in the standard pass—buy it at the Visitor Centre before 4 p.m. on the same day.

Petra, Jordan Travel Guide — 12-Question FAQ (Practical Tips, Routes, Tickets, Petra by Night & More)

1) How many days do I really need for Petra?

Two full days is the sweet spot: Day 1 for the “classic” route (Siq → Treasury → Street of Facades → Royal Tombs → Great Temple) and Day 2 for a big hike (Monastery or High Place of Sacrifice) plus quieter corners or Little Petra. If you’re a photographer or hiker, add a third day.

2) What’s the best time of day to visit the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)?

Arrive at gate opening for people-free shots and soft side-light in the Siq. Late afternoon gives warm, golden tones on the façade. Mid-morning is brightest but busier. Return twice if you can—light transforms the scene.

3) Is “Petra by Night” worth it?

Yes for ambience: a candlelit Siq, Bedouin music, mint tea, and a starry vibe. It’s not for detailed sightseeing (the Treasury is candle-lit only), and it can be crowded. Bring a fast lens/phone, manage expectations, and enjoy the mood.

4) Monastery (Al-Deir) or High Place of Sacrifice—if I can only do one?

Monastery: 800+ steps, jaw-dropping scale, cafés at the top—iconic and rewarding.

High Place of Sacrifice: Steeper, shorter ascent with huge panoramas and a beautiful loop descent past garden tombs.If heat is a concern, do High Place; for that “wow” façade, pick the Monastery.

5) How hard is the hiking and what should I wear?

Expect long, dusty walking on uneven stone, sand, and steps. Wear grippy trainers or light hikers, sun hat, sunglasses, breathable layers, and slather on sunscreen. Carry 1–2 L water per person (more in summer) and electrolytes.

6) Can I visit independently or should I hire a guide?

You can easily explore on your own, but a licensed local guide adds context (Nabataean water systems, tomb typology, hidden viewpoints). Consider a half-day intro tour on Day 1, then free-roam Day 2.

7) How do tickets and the Jordan Pass work?

Petra entry: 50 JD (1 day), 55 JD (2 days), 60 JD (3 days). The Jordan Pass bundles Petra and other major sites and usually waives the 40 JD tourist visa fee—great value if you’re visiting multiple attractions. Petra by Night (17 JD) is separate.

8) What’s the smartest daily route to avoid crowds?

Power-walk the Siq at opening for quiet Treasury time, continue to Royal Tombs before the tour waves arrive, break midday around the Great Temple/Basin, then hike High Place or Monastery as crowds thin and light softens.

9) Are animals (donkeys/camels) okay to ride?

Only if handlers respect loads, rest, water, and fit saddles—and even then, consider skipping rides on steep stair routes where animals strain. If you choose to ride, set your terms kindly (weight, distance, water stops) or opt for a jeep on legal routes.

10) What about food, water, cash and facilities inside Petra?

There are kiosks and simple cafés at hubs (Treasury/Street of Facades/Basin/Monastery). Prices rise deeper inside; bring snacks. ATMs are outside in Wadi Musa—carry small bills. Toilets cluster at main nodes—keep a 1 JD coin and tissues handy.

11) Is Petra accessible for limited mobility or families?

The Siq and area around the Treasury are partially accessible via horse-drawn carriage or electric cart services (ask at the Visitor Centre). Beyond that, terrain gets rough with steps and slopes. For families, a carrier beats a stroller once past the Treasury.

12) What else should I add nearby?

Little Petra (Siq al-Barid): Quieter “mini-Petra” with painted triclinium—great add-on.

Wadi Rum: Overnight desert camp + jeep tour.

Aqaba/Dead Sea/Jerash: Easy extensions if you have extra days.

Final thoughts

Petra is everything you've heard and more! If I can offer one piece of advice, it's that you give yourself enough time to explore. Like I previously mentioned, I only had 1 day there, but I could have easily used 2 more.

Once you enter the city you'll start feeling a bit like Indiana Jones and you'll want to climb every mountain and explore every nook and cranny - give yourself enough time to do so!

Have you been to Petra?Was it everything you thought it would be?

For more info about travel in Jordan, you may want to read:

Memories from Wadi Rum

Destinations in Jordan, because there's more than just Petra!

Exploring Petra and Wadi Musa

A Night at the Dana Biosphere Reserve


Visiting Ping'An and the Longji Rice Terraces in Guangxi, China!

Some of the places I have most enjoyed visiting over the past few months have been the remote little hill towns which can only be reached by taking a minivan through a series of snake-like roads that take you round and round as you slowly ascend up the mountains. I'm not staying I enjoy getting there - that's the part where I close my eyes, hold on to the front seat, and pray while the bus driver plays chicken with other vehicles, seemingly oblivious to the cliff on the lefthand side - however, once that is over and I am back on solid ground, these destinations are exactly my kind of place.

Remote Hillside Town
Like with many of the hillside towns I had previously visited (the Cameron Highlands and Sapa come to mind), getting to Longji wasn't easy. Overturned trucks could sporadically be spotted on the side of the road and there were a few occasions where we nearly ran a pedestrian or two over. However, in spite of this, our tour guide insisted that we had nothing to worry about, "Your driver is master - 25 years driving experience!" Sure he is...

Well, we did make it to Longji in the end albeit I don't have the photos of sweeping rice terraces to prove it. You see, by the time we finished visiting the Huangluo Yao Village (which is home to the women with the longest hair in the world!) it was high noon and the sun was scorching! Sam and I made it about halfway up the 'dragon's back' (aka Longji) before we admitted defeat and settled for exploring the town which was at the halfway mark.

So today instead of rice fields, you get to see the little town of Ping'An.
Practical Longji Guide: When to Go, Where to Hike, and How Not to Miss That Postcard View
Choose Your Season Wisely
Longji’s terraces change costumes every few weeks, so timing is everything.

Month
Landscape Palette
Pros
Cons

Late Apr – Mid-May
Silver mirrors – paddies just flooded
Fewer crowds, dramatic reflections at sunrise
Trails muddy; leeches in forest sections

Mid-May – June
Neon chartreuse seedlings
Rice-planting festivals, drumming & folk dances
Humid; afternoon thunderstorms

July – Aug
Deep-emerald “dragon scales”
Cool nights in the hills (20 °C)
Peak domestic tourism = room rates jump

Sep – Oct (Golden Week)
Liquid gold harvest
Warm light perfect for photos; farmers drying grains in lanes
Need to pre-book buses & inns a month out

Nov
Rust-red sheaves + morning mist
Crisp air, hotpot tastes better
Terrace irrigation drained, some trails closed

Dec – Feb
Frosted terraces (occasional snow)
Ethereal if you love quiet & fireplaces
Limited buses, chilly rooms, few cafés open

My pick: first two weeks of October – golden paddies and post-holiday calm.

Route Cheat-Sheet (Three Option Menu)

Route
Distance / Time
Who It Suits
Highlight

Ping’An → Nine Dragons & Five Tigers Viewpoint → Seven Stars With Moon → Ping’An loop
7 km / 3 h easy
Photographers hunting sunrise angles
Sweeping S-curves of terraces beneath you

Ping’An → Longji Ancient Zhuang Village
6 km / 2 h downhill then bus back
Culture buffs
300-year wooden drum towers + bamboo-smoked bacon lunch

Dazhai → Jinkeng Great View Terrace → West Hill Music → Tiantouzhai
16 km / 6 h moderate
Hikers wanting fewer tourists
Cable-car descent over terraced amphitheatre

Tip: Download the free “Gaia GPS” map before arrival – cell signal dies between ridges.

Getting There Without Growing Grey Hair
Step 1: Guilin → Longsheng Bus Station

Hourly buses (07:00–19:00) from Guilin Qintan Bus Station. 35 RMB, 1 h 45 m.Step 2: Longsheng → Ping’An

Minivans park opposite bus station; drivers wait until 6–7 seats filled. 15 RMB, 50 m along those snake-like corniche roads.

You’ll be dropped at the scenic-area gate; pay 80 RMB entrance, then shuttle another 20 m up to trailhead.

Motion sickness hack: Sit front-left and focus on tea-terrace horizons; peppermint oil helps.

Sleep Among the Terraces – Best Guesthouse Picks

Name
Location
Why Book
Price (dbl)

Countryside Villa
Just above Ping’An square
Pan-terrace balcony, piping-hot solar showers
¥230

Li-An Lodge
Between viewpoints No.1 & 2
Boutique, hand-painted calligraphy rooms, telescope for star-gazing
¥680

Tiantouzhai Dragon Den
Mid-way Dazhai hike
Budget dorms, free noodle-making class nightly
¥90 bunks / ¥220 priv

All list on WeChat Mini-Program or Booking.com, but call ahead if arriving after 18:00 – roads close to private cars at dusk and hosts must meet you at shuttle stop.
Fuel Your Trek – What & Where to Eat

Bamboo-tube rice (竹筒饭 zhútǒngfàn) – Sticky rice mixed with cured pork, shiitake and taro, stuffed into a fresh bamboo cylinder and roasted over charcoal. Available at trail kiosks; costs about 20 RMB.

Laozao Wine Soup – Sweet fermented-rice porridge topped with poached egg; ultimate breakfast carb-boost.

Smoked Chili Duck – Ping’An specialty; order before hike, devour at sunset with Tsingtao beer.

Wild mountain-herb tea – Granny vendors pour from battered kettles for 3 RMB a cup; actually re-hydrates better than bottled water.

Vegetarian? Ask for “su-shi” (素食) dishes—stir-fried fern heads and pumpkin leaves are delicious.

Cultural Nuggets to Appreciate

Zhuang minority make up 60 % of Ping’An’s residents. Their wooden stilt houses (diaojiaolou) are assembled without nails—earthquake flexibility perfected centuries ago.

Red Yao women (you met their cousins in Huangluo) still wash Rapunzel-length hair in fermented rice water here too; if you notice locks drying on balcony rails, it’s polite not to photograph them directly.

Drum Towers & Wind-Rain Bridges you spot en route are both social hubs and architectural lightning rods—built to funnel storms away from fields.

Understanding these layers turns a “pretty terrace” walk into living anthropology.
Pack List for a Day on the Dragon’s Back

Essential
Why

Convertible hiking pants
Scrub-free mornings, sun-scorched afternoons – zip off legs save overheating.

Micro-spikes or sturdy trainers
Stone steps slick after irrigation; flip-flops = comedy wipe-outs.

Quick-dry towel
Post-hike guesthouse showers sometimes charge ¥5 towel fee.

Cash
No ATMs in villages; snacks + homestays take notes only.

UV umbrella
Locals’ secret weapon; doubles as rain shield.

Headtorch
Power cuts common; helpful for sunrise climbs at 4 a.m.

Light gift
Pens, nail polish, or postcards to thank hosts (not sweets—dental care limited).

A Two-Day Sample Itinerary
Day 109:30 Arrive Ping’An, drop bag at guesthouse10:00 Bamboo rice brunch, hike to Nine Dragons viewpoint13:00 Continue to Seven Stars With Moon, circle back via tea fields17:30 Golden-hour shoot from Guesthouse balcony19:00 Smoked duck + taro hotpot dinner, early bed
Day 204:45 Head-torch climb for sunrise timelapse08:00 Laozao breakfast, pack-out09:00 Minivan to Dazhai; cable-car up, 3-hour traverse across Jinkeng bowl15:00 Soak feet in river at Tiantouzhai, bus back to Guilin or stay extra night for star-trails photography
FAQs: Ping’An & the Longji (Longsheng) Rice Terraces
1) When’s the best time to visit Longji?
Late Apr–Jun = mirror-like flooded fields and neon seedlings; Jul–Aug = lush green “dragon scales”; Sep–Oct = golden harvest (most photogenic); Nov = misty, rustic reds; Dec–Feb = quiet, occasional frost/snow. Avoid China’s Golden Week if you dislike crowds.
2) How do I get to Ping’An from Guilin/Yangshuo?
From Guilin, take a bus to Longsheng, then a minivan/shuttle to the Longji Scenic Area gate and on to Ping’An (or Dazhai/Tiantouzhai). From Yangshuo, most travellers connect via Guilin or join a direct tour/minivan.
3) Do I need a ticket for the terraces?
Yes. The Longji Rice Terraces Scenic Area requires an entrance ticket; internal shuttles cost extra. Keep your ticket handy for village shuttle checks.
4) Ping’An vs. Dazhai/Tiantouzhai—where should I base?
Ping’An = classic views, shorter loops, more eateries. Dazhai/Tiantouzhai = wider amphitheatre vistas, a cable car, longer hikes, slightly fewer crowds. Both have atmospheric wooden guesthouses.
5) What are the best viewpoints near Ping’An?
Two classics: Nine Dragons & Five Tigers (grand S-curves) and Seven Stars with Moon (terraces clustered like a constellation). Sunrise and late afternoon are ideal for light and shadows.
6) Are the hikes difficult?
Trails are stone-stepped and well-signed. Ping’An loops are easy–moderate (2–4 hours). Cross-village routes (e.g., Dazhai ↔ Tiantouzhai) are moderate (4–6 hours). Steps can be slick after rain—wear good shoes.
7) How many days do I need?
1 day covers Ping’An’s two viewpoints. 2 days adds sunrise/sunset and a loop or side trip. 3 days lets you combine villages (Ping’An + Dazhai) at a relaxed pace.
8) What should I pack for a day on the terraces?
Grippy footwear, sunhat/UV umbrella, rain shell, water/snacks, small bills (no ATMs in villages), headlamp (pre-dawn starts/power cuts), and layers—mountain weather flips fast.
9) What local foods should I try?
Bamboo-tube rice (zhútǒngfàn), laozao sweet rice-wine soup, smoked chili duck, wild mountain-herb stir-fries, and taro hotpot. Veggie? Ask for sùshí (素食) options—pumpkin leaves and fern tips are great.
10) Any lodging tips?
Guesthouses are wooden stilt homes with big views; book ahead for summer/harvest and national holidays. If arriving late, arrange pickup at the shuttle stop (private cars are restricted in the scenic area).
11) Are the roads and shuttles safe?
Drivers know the mountain switchbacks, but motion sickness is common—sit forward, look at the horizon, bring mints/meds. Steps around paddies can be muddy—watch your footing.
12) Any photography & etiquette advice?
Golden/blue hour sings; carry a mini tripod. Ask before photographing locals (especially hair-care rituals of Red Yao women). Drones may be restricted—check current rules and fly responsibly away from crowds and crops.


Visiting Pula, Croatia: Things to do When You Visit In Low Season!

We visited Pula in October hoping to catch the last rays of summer in this popular holiday hotspot. Pula is a small city in the southern part of Istria, the heart-shaped peninsula in northwestern Croatia, and it draws huge crowds during the summer months, both for its beaches and its famed film and music festivals. Well, we may have missed all the buzz, but we still managed to have a wonderful time in Pula during low season.
Since we travelled by bus by way of Italy and Slovenia, reaching Pula meant travelling the full length of Istria and we were amazed by the scenery outside the window. We went past fields of green in the form of olive groves and vineyards, roads lined with Italian Cypress trees, and hilltop towns dominated by orange rooftops and church bell towers. Istria was love at first sight, even causing us to switch up our Balkans travel itinerary so that we could spend a little more time along the coast and a little less time inland.
In total, we spent a week in Istria and this is a little taste of what we got up to in Pula:
Pula Travel Guide: What to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Pula, Croatia

Touring the impressive Pula Arena
We kicked off our sightseeing in Pula with a visit to the city’s best-known attraction: Pula Arena! This Roman amphitheatre is an architectural behemoth that dates back to the 1st century. It was built during the reign of Emperor Vespasian, at the same time the Colosseum in Rome was going up.
What’s even more shocking is how well preserved it is; this is the only remaining Roman amphitheatre with all four side towers and three stories still standing.

We walked past the arena on our first day in Pula as we were going to check into our apartment and what a sight that was! We were up and early the following morning ready to explore the inside.
It is believed that the amphitheater could seat about 20,000 spectators - gladiator fights would have taken place in the arena while spectators sat on the stone steps - but this structure would not go forgotten after the fall of the Roman Empire; during the Middle Ages, this is where knights would have held their tournaments and fairs.
Admission: 50 kuna / 10 Euros
Tip: During the summer months, Pula Arena puts on "Spectacvla Antiqva", an event that reenacts gladiator fights and games from Roman antiquity. Alternatively, you can buy a ticket to one of the many concerts or films that are screened in the amphitheatre as part of the summer music festivals and Pula Film Festival.
Visiting the Roman Forum
From there, we also made time to visit the Roman Forum, which was the main square and the centre of social, religious and political life during Roman times.

The Forum in Pula once housed 3 temples: the Temple of Augustus, the Temple of Diana, and the Temple to the Capitoline Triad (where Jupiter, Juno and Minerva were worshipped), but today, only the Temple of Augustus remains.
Over the course of the centuries, the Temple of Augustus has seen many uses from a Christian church to a grain storehouse, but at present, it houses a very small 1-room museum - and when I say small, I mean you can visit in 5 minutes! Inside you can see a small collection of sculptures, reliefs and statuettes.
Admission: 5 kuna
Tracking down the Roman Mosaic
And speaking of the Romans, another cool site not too far from the Forum is the Roman Mosaic. This incredible well-preserved floor depicts the Punishment of Dirce, which is straight out of Greek mythology.

The mosaic is tucked away in a bit of an inconspicuous location, but it’s easy to find if you know how to get there. The best thing you can do is plot “Roman Floor Mosaic” on GoogleMaps, which will lead you to a parking lot off Ulica Benediktinske opatije.
You might think you’re off course at this point, but keep going. Walk through the parking lot until you see a set of gates on the left-hand side - it’ll look like you’re walking into the back entrance of a building complex. As soon as you walk through the gates, you’ll be able to see the mosaic on your right. A fascinating slice of history right under your nose!
Admission: Free
Eating the best pizza in town
Now for our favourite restaurant in town, allow me to introduce you to Pizzeria Jupiter! We found this place pretty early on and we ate here once a day the whole time we were in Pula.
I know you’re probably wondering, “Pizza in Croatia? What are you doing? This isn’t Italy!” but to be fair, Istrian cuisine does have a strong Italian influence and their pizza is amazing.

Two of our favourites at the restaurant were Frutti di mare a seafood pizza topped with tomatoes, cheese, scampi, mussels, tuna, sardines, squid and garlic; and Istriana topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, prosciutto, rucola and cherry tomatoes. Add a glass of the house red and I was in my foodie zone.

Sampling all the artisanal gelato
And speaking of food, we somehow managed to book ourselves into an apartment that was right next-door to a gelato shop, so needless to say, we were regulars at that place!

Over the course of our stay, we became very well-acquainted with Slastičarnica Fortuna - a fourth-generation gelato shop! - and we soon befriended one of the great-grandsons who worked there. Sam was all about the pistachio and I was super fond of anything with berries, so I had a new flavour to sample each day.
Getting lost in the Old Town
Another thing we did plenty of in Pula was walking around without much of a plan. I'm someone who just enjoys wandering up and down back streets admiring the architecture, popping into shops, and snapping photos along the way. Pula's streets are perfect for this with so many impressive gates, cobbled lanes, and surprising facades.

If you prefer a bit more structure to your wanderings, try walking the length of Kandlerova, Forum and Sergijevaca; this is one street that runs through the Old Town in a horseshoe formation, changing names along the way.
This will take you past the cathedral, the tunnel network known as Zerostrasse, the Roman Forum, the Temple of Augustus, the Roman Mosaic and the Arch of Sergii just to name a few. You can also use this walk to scout out some restaurants or do a little souvenir shopping.

Enjoying a walk along the marina
Another thing you can do in Pula is go on a boat cruise. The most popular destination is Brijuni National Park, a group of 14 small islands that sit out on the Adriatic Sea.
The islands have a few archaeological and cultural sites and though admission to the park used to be free, these days you have to join one of the official excursions arranged by the park or local tourist agencies.

I tend to get super queasy on boats, so we ended up skipping this and wandering along the marina instead, but if you want to see more of the Istrian coast, this is a really popular day trip from Pula. To arrange an outing, you just have to walk down to the marina where you'll find a row of tour operators offering different trips including a few sunset cruises.
Climbing the fortress for city views
Next up, for city views we walked up to Pula Castle, also known as Kaštel. This is an old fortress situated on a hill right in the centre of Pula and it was built by the Venetians during the 17th century.

The fort houses the Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria, but I would say the main draw are the views you get.
Admission: 20 kuna
Hitting up Pula's beaches
We visited Pula during the low-season and even though the locals insisted "the water was warmer than the air" and still okay for a swim, I felt otherwise! I may not have gone for a swim, but I can agree that Valsaline is a beautiful beach and I can only imagine the crowds it draws during the summer months.
Since I'm no expert on summer in Pula, here's a link to some of the best beaches in Pula for you to take your pick.

Where to stay in Pula
We had initially considered visiting Pula in the middle of summer, but the prices scared us away. Like most of Croatia's coastline, Pula too is a summer hotspot, so not only where most properties already booked up for July and August, but the remaining ones had ridiculous price tags - we're talking about $100/night for tiny studios.
By comparison, visiting during the low season, we were able to get a 1-bedroom house in the heart of the city for $40/night, so that's something to keep in mind. You can get a better idea of rates for accommodations in Pula here.
As for location, Pula is fairly compact and walkable, so anywhere in the Old Town is a good place to stay.

Weather in Pula in October
So, Pula in the off-season - what was the weather like?
We were there in mid-October and though that late summer warmth was gone, it was still pleasant. The temperatures were about 16-20°C during the day, but would drop down to 6-10°C at night.
Mornings and evenings in Pula were usually foggy with mist rolling in from the water. In the mornings, I would leave our place wearing a scarf and a jacket, but then by mid-morning, I'd be peeling off these layers and basking in the sunshine in my short sleeve.
I do think this is still a nice time of year to be in Pula if beaches and summer rays aren't your top priority. Locals told us how the summer months can be a bit stifling (one of them said that by the end of summer he's wishing for rain!), so I thought the cooler weather was ideal for long days of wandering around on foot.
If you liked this Pula post you might also enjoy reading about our day trip to Rovinj and our city guide to Zagreb.

Low‑Season Playbook: Getting Around, Day‑Trip Ideas & Cold‑Weather Foodie Finds
Even without the summer buzz, Pula can be your perfect base for exploring the wider Istrian peninsula—think sleepy hill towns perfumed by truffles, wave‑polished coves all to yourself, and Roman ruins that echo in crisp autumn air. Here’s how to squeeze every last drop out of an off‑season stay.
Transport Hacks When Buses Thin Out

Rent a Tiny Car for a Day (or Two). In October, manual hatchbacks start at €25 a day—cheaper than two round‑trip regional bus tickets. Parking inside Pula’s old walls is limited, but there’s ample metered space by the marina.

FlixBus & Arriva still run skeleton routes, but check Friday/Sunday timetables; some services drop to once daily. Pre‑book online to avoid “sold‑out” surprises.

Bikes & E‑Scooters: Clear bike lanes hug the waterfront all the way to Stoja Peninsula. Rent wheels from Top Rentals (near the Arena) for €10 day; helmets free and no deposit in shoulder season.

Day‑Trip Delights (45 Minutes or Less)

Destination
Travel Time
Why Go in Autumn
Quick Tip

Rovinj
40 min by bus
Misty bell‑tower views + empty cobblestone lanes
Grab a takeaway burek and watch fishermen mend nets on the quay.

Vodnjan & Galižana Olive Route
20 min drive
Fresh‑pressed oil tastings begin mid‑Oct
Call ahead to Chiavalon Estate; tours run on demand for €10 pp.

Labin & Rabac
45 min drive
Medieval hilltop + quiet pebble beaches
Park at upper Labin, stroll down the Sentona Trail to Rabac (1 h) then taxi back.

Cape Kamenjak Nature Park
30 min drive
Dramatic cliffs, no entrance fee off‑season
Bring a thermos and watch dolphins from Safari Bar’s treehouse deck.

Seasonal Food & Drink That Warm the Soul

Fuži with Truffle Cream: Black truffle season kicks off late September. At Kantina Restaurant (Vladimir Nazor 6), a plate with shaved goodness runs €14—half the peak‑summer price.

Čufte Istriana: Slow‑braised meatballs in tomato‑wine sauce served atop polenta. Perfect after a blustery marina stroll.

Malvazija ‘New Vintage’ Tastings: Fresh 2025 whites hit cellar doors by late October. Pop into Wine & Co. on Sergijevaca for a €6 flight.

Rakija by the Fire: Many cafés switch from spritzes to herbal brandies once the evenings dip below 10 °C. Try Medica (honey schnapps) at Cvajner Art Bar while jazz hums in the vaulted hall.

Events & Experiences Hidden in the Shoulder Months

Lighting Giants Show (Nightly, 7 p.m.)Uljanik shipyard’s cranes flash neon choreographies visible from anywhere along Riva. Crowds thin to a handful of locals—front‑row benches guaranteed.

Istrian Truffle Days (Weekends in Oct) – LivadeShuttle from Pula Tourism Office on Saturdays (€18 return). Hit up the open‑air market for truffle cheese samples and hilariously intense dog‑hunting demos.

Pula Film Festival “Winter Screenings”Select nights inside the Kino Valli cinema. International indie films + complimentary mulled wine; check listings at valli dot hr.

Olive Harvest VolunteeringContact family‑run Stancija Buršić via Facebook. Trade a morning of picking for a farmhouse lunch of maneštra bean soup and unlimited olive‑oil‑soaked bread.

What to Pack for Moody Adriatic Weather

Lightweight down jacket (packs small, blocks marina wind)

Scarf that doubles as beach blanket for spontaneous cliff‑side picnics

Waterproof trainers—autumn squalls flood limestone lanes

Reusable coffee cup—cafés happily give a discount and you’ll sip more than one cappuccino to stay toasty

Pula in the Off-Season (October–April): 12 Essential Questions Answered
1) Is Pula worth visiting in low season?
Absolutely. You’ll trade festivals and beach crowds for quiet Roman ruins, easy restaurant reservations, and cheaper stays. Days are mild for wandering (≈16–20 °C in October) and foggy mornings give the Old Town a moody, cinematic feel.
2) What are the must-see sights if I only have a day?
Prioritize Pula Arena (inside + outer arches walk), the Forum with the Temple of Augustus (quick 5-minute museum peek), the tucked-away Roman Mosaic (Punishment of Dirce), the Arch of Sergii, and Kaštel fortress for panoramic harbour views.
3) Are attractions open year-round?
Most headline sites stay open with shorter hours; last entries can be earlier than summer. Winter shoulder months may see occasional maintenance closures, so plan Arena/Temple earlier in the day and keep a flexible backup (Old Town wander, marina stroll, cafés).
4) How do I find the hidden Roman Mosaic?
Plot “Roman Floor Mosaic” in Google Maps. Walk through the small parking lot off Ulica Benediktinske opatije, slip past the gate on the left, and it’s right there behind the buildings—free, uncrowded, and beautifully preserved.
5) What’s a good self-guided loop through the Old Town?
Walk Kandlerova → Forum → Sergijevaca (one continuous, horseshoe-shaped route). It strings together the cathedral, Zerostrasse tunnels, Forum/Temple, Mosaic, and Arch of Sergii with plenty of cafés and gelato stops along the way.
6) Where should I eat in low season?
For crowd-pleasing comfort, Pizzeria Jupiter serves Istrian-Italian pies (seafood “Frutti di mare” or prosciutto-rucola “Istriana”). For sweet fixes, hunt down a family gelateria (pistachio, forest berries) and try a warm burek from a local bakery on misty mornings.
7) Can I still do boat trips or Brijuni National Park?
Yes, but departures thin out. Some Brijuni excursions and sunset cruises run on reduced schedules or weekends only. If you’re prone to seasickness or boats aren’t running, the marina promenade is a peaceful alternative with lighthouse and shipyard views.
8) Are beaches any good outside summer?
You’ll likely skip swimming, but Valsaline and peninsulas around Stoja/Verudela are gorgeous for empty pebble coves, tide-polished rocks, and photo stops. Pack a windbreaker; locals may plunge, visitors usually picnic.
9) What’s the low-season vibe on prices and availability?
Accommodation drops dramatically (Old Town apartments can halve vs. July/August). Restaurants, shops, and small museums are relaxed; you’ll often be seated right away. Some beach bars hibernate—aim for central venues around the Forum and Arch of Sergii.
10) How do I get there and around without a car?
Buses link Pula with Trieste, Ljubljana, and Zagreb year-round (fewer frequencies—book ahead). In town, you can walk almost everywhere; rideshares/taxis are handy for beachy peninsulas. For day trips, check timetables the day prior in shoulder months.
11) What should I pack for October–April?
Layers (tee + mid-layer + light jacket), scarf, waterproof sneakers for slick limestone, and a compact umbrella. Mornings start cool and foggy, then clear to sunny strolls—expect to shed layers by late morning.
12) Any easy add-ons from Pula in low season?
Rovinj (misty lanes and bell-tower views), Cape Kamenjak (wild cliffs, no summer gate queues), Vodnjan olive-oil estates (new-press tastings), and Labin/Rabac (hilltown + quiet pebble shore). All are pleasant, uncrowded autumn/winter outings.
Have you been to Pula?What were some of your highlights?What did you think of our best things to do travel guide?


Visiting Ruegen Island in the Summertime on our Trip to Germany!

Germany may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of a seaside holiday destination, but that's exactly what I discovered during my recent visit to Ruegen Island. Located in the state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, Ruegen Island is Germany's largest island and it draws holidayers for a lot more than just its beaches. During my visit, I got to hike along chalky cliffs, watch live outdoor theatre, ride in some unique modes of transportation, and drive the island's "tree tunnels" - beautiful stretches of road covered in a thick foliage of trees. Here's a little recap of what that looked like:

Ruegen Island Travel Guide: Top Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience on Ruegen Island, Germany!

Hiking the white chalk cliffs of Jasmund National Park
When it comes to natural wonders, Ruegen Island does not disappoint. Located on the northeastern tip of the island, you’ll find Jasmund National Park, a place where the white chalk coastline tries to play tricks with your eyes. Can it be? Is it real?
If you’ve ever visited the Cliffs of Dover in England, or Møns Klint in Denmark, then you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. These white chalk cliffs rise up along the coastline and make for one of the most beautiful sights you’ll ever witness. As it turns out, England and Denmark aren’t the only places where you can see this marvel - Germany’s Ruegen Island has just as spectacular a coastline.
The two main lookout points in Jasmund National Park are Koenigsstuhl, which translates to King’s Chair, and Victoria-Sicht, which means Victoria's View. The walk to Victoria’s View makes for a nice stroll through the forest, and then there’s also a turnoff where you can walk down to the pebbly beach below so you can enjoy the cliffs from a different vantage point.

Watching a medieval play at the Stoertebeker Festspiele
If you ever visit Ruegen Island in the summertime, you won’t be able to drive more than a few hundred meters without seeing posters of a handsome young man, dressed in medieval clothes, with blond locks flowing down to his shoulders. These posters advertise the Stoertebeker Festspiele, which is an open air theatre that takes places on a massive outdoor stage right by the water.
The play is set in the medieval period and it includes something for all ages - love, betrayal, sword fights, and even a few explosions. The story and the characters change every summer, and that’s one of the reasons people keep coming back for more. And that’s the other thing, people flock to this event by the thousands! I was shocked when I saw the number of seats (over 8000!) available and I wondered if they’d be able to fill them considering the size of the towns and villages on the island, however, the Stoertebeker Festspiele is such a well-known event that visitors make the drive not just from around the island, but also from the surrounding mainland.
The play was in German so we didn’t quite follow the whole storyline, but the sword fights and the pub brawl kept us entertained.
Also, as a tip, if you ever find yourself in Ruegen and plan to attend this festival, bring a blanket and hoodie to keep warm. The summer nights can get quite chilly and I kept wishing I’d worn something warmer the whole performance.

Riding in a Trabi from the former GDR
Having minored in German Studies when I was in university, I spent several weeks studying Ostalgie, a unit that covered the nostalgia for East Germany that developed years after the wall came down.
To give you a quick background on the topic (I am a teacher after all!), after WW2, Germany was divided into 4 occupation zones, and eventually into West Germany and East Germany. Two very distinct cultures developed as a result of this division. East Germany was influenced by the Soviets, while West Germany was completely open and influenced by the rest of the Western world.
One of the unique aspects of East German culture was the cars they drove, or I should say ‘car’ because almost everyone had a Trabant. This was a car that you had to wait about 15 years to receive and it was also known to be one of the least reliable cars out there. They were constantly breaking down and people were always having to find creative ways to repair them.
Once the wall came down and East Germany and West Germany were once again reunified, most East Germans sought to upgrade their vehicles. The Trabant was considered a thing of the past, that is until Ostalgie kicked in. It wasn’t too long before some East Germans started longing for the things of the past, items that were only available in the former German Democratic Republic, which was now quickly becoming more and more Westernized. The Trabant, affectionately known as the Trabi, suddenly saw a resurgence in popularity. It became a car that people wanted to drive and you can still see in on the streets today 25 years after reunification.
And that's why I was so excited to get to ride in a bright orange Trabi while I was in Ruegen Island! This old Trabi had been converted into an eTrabi with an electric engine, and even though I wasn’t the driver, it was still a lot of fun riding in one simply because of all the history behind the car.

Travelling aboard the Rasender Roland
I know I’m sounding like a total transportation enthusiast here, but indulge me a little, will you? Now I’m going to tell you about a really cool train because if you ever find yourself in Ruegen Island you won’t want to miss riding the Rasender Roland. This is an old fashioned steam engine train that runs between Putbus and Goehren.
For many locals this was once a commuter train to travel between the towns along the southern part of the island, these days, however, the route has gained a lot of popularity with vacationing tourists who want to ride along this scenic route. The tracks run past farms and wooded areas, and it’s a slow and easy ride for all ages.
An alternative if you prefer something a bit more active is to hike the path through the woods that runs along the train tracks. That way you still get to enjoy nature and see the steam engine train in action.
A local was later telling me that sometimes there are special music events put on where you ride the train to the forest, people bring their picnic baskets, and then when you arrive, musicians are already playing live music. Could there by anything more idyllic than that?

The beaches in Goehren
Ruegen Island wouldn’t be considered a summer destination if it didn’t have beaches, and the seaside town of Goehren offers precisely that. I only had half a day in the town, so I can’t give you the full scoop on all the sights, but I can tell you that it has a nice seaside promenade with some lovely stretches of sand. (The place reminded me of some of the Baltic seaside towns that I visited in Finland last summer!)
One of the things I found most interesting about the beaches was seeing the Strandkorben (double beach chairs that offer a little cover from the wind). Prior to visiting the northern parts of Germany, my mom who used to live in Hamburg, had told me about windy summers by the Baltic Sea - summers that involved sitting in a Strandkorb, bringing a book down to the beach, and perhaps even draping a blanket over your legs while you stared out at the sea.
Well, I happened to be visiting during an unusual heat wave so blankets were not necessary, but it was still cool seeing the Strandkorben all lined up on the sand.
Where to stay in Ruegen Island

While in Ruegen Island I stayed at , which offers really unique accommodations in the form of apartments built on stilts over the water. It was pretty cool falling asleep with the moonlight streaming in through the windows, and simultaneously hearing the sound of the water lapping against the pier and the sailboats in the harbour.

This trip was planned in partnership with the German National Tourism Board as part of their #JoinGermanTradition campaign which seeks to highlight unique customs and traditions across Germany.

Rügen Island Travel Planner: Practical Tips, Mini-Itineraries, and Handy Checklists

Where to Base Yourself on Rügen

Choosing a home base on Rügen is half the battle. Each area has a little personality of its own—think elegant seaside promenades vs. fisherman-village vibes vs. chalk-cliff gateways. Here’s a quick comparison to help you pick your spot:

Base AreaBest ForVibeDon’t MissProsConsBinzFirst-timers, classic seaside promenadesBelle-Époque resort town, long sandy beachKurhaus, Schmachter See sunset, StrandpromenadeMany dining options, central for day tripsBusy in peak summerSellinIconic pier loversPretty villas + famous Seebrücke SellinPier sunrise, South/North beachesPostcard views, easy hop to Baabe & GöhrenMore steps/gradients to reach the beachGöhrenBeach time + Mönchgut peninsula walksRelaxed, family-friendlyNorth & South Beach, Mönchgut hikesGreat for Strandkörbe days, Rasender Roland stopSlightly farther to JasmundSassnitzChalk-cliff access & Jasmund NPFisherman-port charmKönigsstuhl Visitor Center, Victoria-SichtClosest to white-cliff trailsPebbly shoreline (not sandy)Putbus / LauterbachQuiet base + quirky stays over waterNoble squares, marina lifePutbus castle park, marina boardwalksEasy Rasender Roland access, boat tripsNo big beach right in townKap Arkona / PutgartenLighthouse + coastal sceneryWindy headland + village charmTwin lighthouses, Vitt hamletDramatic cliffs + Baltic panoramasExposed to weather, can be blusteryHiddensee (car-free isle)Slow travel & bikesDune landscapes, thatched cottagesDornbusch lighthouse, sandy sweepsPeaceful, no carsAccess via ferry; day trippers surge

My take: If your heart is set on chalk cliffs, Sassnitz is supremely practical. If you want the classic “German seaside” look with cafe-lined promenades and a long sandy beach, go Binz or Sellin. For space to breathe, Göhren on the Mönchgut peninsula is a lovely happy medium.

Getting Around: Car, Train, Bike…or a Steam Engine

Rügen’s logistics are wonderfully old-meets-new. Pick the mix that fits your style:

By Car

Why it’s handy: Maximum freedom and those magical “tree tunnels” (Alleenstraßen) are dreamy to drive.

Watch for: Narrow lanes, cyclists, beach traffic in July–August, and paid parking near piers and parks.

Good to know: A smaller car makes coastal village parking so much easier.

By Rail & Bus

Mainline trains reach Stralsund/Bergen auf Rügen; from there, regional trains/buses fan out.

Rasender Roland (Putbus–Binz–Sellin–Göhren): a scenic heritage line you can use for sightseeing and transport. It’s slow, charming, and perfect for mixing a beach day with nostalgic chugs between towns.

By Bike

Rügen is crisscrossed with coastal and forest cycle paths. Many seaside promenades have parallel bike routes.

Rental tip: Ask for a lock + lights; coastal fog can roll in earlier than expected.

Boats & Ferries

Summer boats link Lauterbach, Sellin, Binz, Göhren and out to Hiddensee. Bring a jumper for the breeze, even if the sun says otherwise.

Beach Cheat-Sheet: Where to Lay Your Towel (and Grab a Strandkorb)

You’ll notice the Strandkörbe—those hooded wicker beach chairs—lined up like sentries. They’re perfect for windier days (aka many days on the Baltic) and a very “when in Germany” thing to rent.

Binz Beach: Long, golden, and perfect for a promenade stroll followed by a lazy Strandkorb afternoon.

Sellin North/South Beaches: The pier steals the show. Come early for sunrise when the water is glassy and the light is pink.

Göhren: North Beach is great for families; South Beach feels wilder and pairs nicely with Mönchgut hikes.

Prora: A dramatically long sweep of sand with a curious historic backdrop. Ideal for longer beach walks.

Swimming note: The Baltic here is shallow and typically calm, but it can be fresh! If you run cold (hi, it’s me), a quick dip + Strandkorb cocoon is a winning combo.

Easy Nature Days: Hikes & Viewpoints That Won’t Eat Your Whole Day

Jasmund National Park (Sassnitz)

Musts: Victoria-Sicht (gentle forest stroll; big reveal), Königsstuhl overlook (visitor center nearby).

Trail Tip: Drop down to the pebble beach (check conditions) for that full white-cliff-meets-turquoise-water drama. Wear grippy footwear; chalk dust + pebbles = slippery.

Mönchgut Peninsula (Sellin–Baabe–Göhren)

Low, rolling landscapes, reed beds, and sea-meets-meadow views. Carry a picnic and meander—you’ll stumble on perfect, quiet coves.

Granitz Beech Forest

Hunting Lodge Granitz (Jagdschloss): climb the cast-iron staircase for a 360° view over beaches, lagoons, and villages. It’s a leg-burner with a prize at the top.

Kap Arkona & Vitt

Twin lighthouses, steep coast, and that windswept “edge of the map” feeling. Walk down to Vitt, a tiny thatched-roof hamlet in its own time warp.

Food & Drink: What to Order (and Where to Snack Without Thinking)

You’re on an island; lean into the fischbrötchen life.

Fischbrötchen (fish rolls): Herring (Bismarck/Matjes), smoked mackerel, or salmon with pickles/onions. Perfect pier food.

Räucherfisch (smoked fish): You’ll see smokehouses near harbors—follow your nose.

Sanddorn (sea buckthorn): Tangy-citrus everything—tea, juice, cakes. When in the Baltic, right?

Kuchenpause: Afternoon coffee + cake is practically mandatory. Try a Sanddorn cheesecake or a seasonal fruit tart.

Budget tip: Beach kiosks and harbor shacks keep lunches very reasonable. Save your splurge for a waterfront dinner in Binz or a tasting menu near Sassnitz.

Two Easy Mini-Itineraries (Steal, Swap, Save)

3 Days on Rügen (First-Time Highlights)

Day 1 – Binz & Sellin

Morning: Coffee on the Binz promenade, beach walk.

Midday: Granitz Lodge—climb for the views.

Late afternoon: Sellin Pier for photos, blue hour, and dinner with a pier view.

Day 2 – Jasmund & Sassnitz

Morning: Victoria-Sicht and forest walk (pack snacks).

Midday: Königsstuhl visitor center; optional descent to pebbly beach (check trail status).

Evening: Harborside dinner in Sassnitz; try smoked fish and Sanddorn dessert.

Day 3 – Göhren & Rasender Roland

Morning: Strandkorb time in Göhren (North Beach).

Afternoon: Ride Rasender Roland to Sellin or Binz; hop off for ice cream + promenade stroll.

Sunset: Back to Göhren for a mellow beach sunset.

5 Days on Rügen (Add Scenery & Stories)

Day 1: Binz arrival + beach + Granitz LodgeDay 2: Full Jasmund loop (Victoria-Sicht, Königsstuhl, Sassnitz harbor)Day 3: Kap Arkona lighthouses + Vitt village + Putgarten wanderDay 4: Göhren base + Mönchgut peninsula hike + Strandkorb reading dayDay 5: Störtebeker Festspiele night. Daytime beach or Sellin/Baabe; evening blanket, hoodie, and your best “brave pirate” spirit.

Seasonal Smarts: When to Visit & What to Expect

June–August: Warmest temps, buzzing seaside towns, longest days. Expect crowds in July–August (book early).

May & September: Shoulder-season sweet spot—mild weather, easier reservations, still beachable with a sweater.

Evenings: Chillier than you think (Baltic breeze!). A light puffer or fleece earns its suitcase space.

Sea Temp: “Refreshing.” If you’re cold-blooded, pack a quick-dry towel and warm layers for post-swim.

What to Pack for a North-German Beach Holiday (Yes, Even in Summer)

Beach & Daywear

Swimsuit (two, if you’re a beach-all-day person)

Quick-dry towel or Turkish towel

Light cottons/linens for town and promenades

Sun hat + sunglasses

Packable rain jacket or windbreaker (Baltic breeze is real)

Footwear

Comfy walking shoes (forest trails + piers)

Sandals you can kick on/off for Strandkörbe life

Light hikers if you plan to descend to pebbly beaches

Nice-to-Haves

Reusable water bottle (fill up at your accommodation)

Picnic kit (foldable knife, napkin, tote)

Power bank (long days out)

Binoculars (cliffs, lighthouses, and that ship on the horizon)

For Störtebeker Festspiele Night

Blanket or travel throw

Hoodie/fleece (even in “heat waves”)

Snacks (keep it quiet—think chocolate, nuts, fruit)

Responsible Travel on Rügen (Gentle Reminders That Matter)

Stay off cliff edges and heed closures—chalk coasts are fragile and erosion happens.

Take the steps/official paths down to beaches; don’t scramble across dune grasses.

Carry it in, carry it out: Beaches and forests are pristine—let’s keep them that way.

Give wildlife space: Especially on quieter Mönchgut stretches.

Support local: Smokehouses, bakeries, family-run Strandkorb rentals—your euros make a difference.

Budget Snapshot (Very Rough, but Helpful)

Strandkorb rental: ~€10–€20 per day (varies with location/season)

Fischbrötchen lunch: €3–€7

Cafe & cake: €6–€10

Casual dinner mains: €14–€24

Rasender Roland ride: modest fare; consider return tickets for savings

Königsstuhl visitor center: paid entry; check combo options if you’re visiting multiple sites

Rainy Day Plan (Because Coastal Weather Has Mood Swings)

Museums/centers: Königsstuhl visitor center (Jasmund), local history in Binz, or tidy maritime exhibits in harbors.

Cafe-hop: Baltic cake research is a serious calling.

Spa day: Many seaside hotels offer day spa passes—sauna + stormy sea views is peak cozy.

Train ride: Rasender Roland is extra atmospheric in mist.

Rügen Island Trip: 12-Question FAQ

When is the best time to visit Rügen for beaches and hiking?

Late June through early September offers the warmest weather and the longest days, perfect for beach time and forest walks. May and September are lovely shoulder months with milder temps, fewer crowds, and lower prices, but evenings can be cool and breezy, so bring layers.

Which base is best if I want to see the white chalk cliffs?

Sassnitz is the most convenient base for Jasmund National Park, with short drives or bus links to Victoria-Sicht and the Königsstuhl visitor center. If you prefer a sandy beach vibe and don’t mind a slightly longer commute, Binz or Sellin work well too.

Can I swim almost anywhere along the Baltic coast on Rügen?

You’ll find designated swimming zones along the big resort beaches—Binz, Sellin, Göhren, and Prora. The Baltic here is generally calm and shallow, but it’s cooler than the Mediterranean. Pebbly stretches below the chalk cliffs are scenic but not ideal for swimming; stick to signed beach areas with lifeguards in summer.

How do I rent a Strandkorb (hooded beach chair), and do I need to book?

On busy beaches there’s a kiosk or attendant with numbered Strandkörbe—just pick a free one and pay by the hour or day. In peak season and on sunny weekends, arrive earlier in the morning to snag a front-row seat, especially in Binz and Sellin.

Is the Rasender Roland steam train worth riding if I’m short on time?

Yes—do a short hop between, say, Binz and Sellin or Sellin and Göhren. It’s slow, nostalgic, and scenic, and it doubles as transport. If you have an extra hour, pair the ride with a beach stroll or pier visit to make it a complete mini-outing.

How do I get tickets for the Störtebeker Festspiele and what should I bring?

Tickets can be purchased online in advance or at the on-island box offices. Seats go fast in July–August. Bring a blanket, a warm layer, and maybe a thermos or snacks; it’s an outdoor evening performance right by the water, and temperatures can dip.

Are there easy hikes suitable for families with kids?

Yes—Jasmund’s forest paths to Victoria-Sicht are gentle and well-marked, the Granitz beech forest has wide trails, and Mönchgut offers rolling, lowland paths by the sea. Always keep kids on designated trails near cliffs and follow local safety signs.

What should I wear for a summer visit—do I really need a jacket?

Pack summer clothing for daytime, but absolutely bring a windbreaker or light puffer for evenings. The Baltic breeze is cool, especially at sunset, on ferries, and during outdoor theatre nights. A scarf and light beanie never go unused in my bag.

Can I visit Hiddensee as a day trip from Rügen?

Yes—ferries in summer connect Rügen (e.g., Schaprode or Lauterbach) to the car-free island of Hiddensee. Rent a bike when you arrive, ride to Dornbusch lighthouse, and enjoy the dunes and long beaches. It’s a slower pace and a lovely change of scene.

Are there any safety considerations around the chalk cliffs?

Chalk cliffs erode and can be unstable. Heed all trail closures and safety signage, stay behind fences, and keep back from edges even for photos. Use official access points for the pebble beaches and avoid walking under overhangs when conditions are wet or windy.

Is Rügen easy to explore without a car?

You can do a lot with regional trains, buses, the Rasender Roland, and ferries—especially if you base yourself in Binz, Sellin, Sassnitz, or Göhren. To reach more remote viewpoints and hop quickly between spots, a car is convenient, but not essential if you don’t mind slower, scenic travel.

What local foods should I try on Rügen?

Start with fischbrötchen (fish rolls) from a harbor stand, Räucherfisch (smoked fish) from a smokehouse, and anything Sanddorn (sea buckthorn)—teas, juices, and cakes. Save room for afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen; a seaside slice with Baltic views is a delicious Rügen tradition.

Have you visited the Baltic Sea in the summertime?Any favourite destinations to share?


A knock on the carriage door. The scent of fresh coffee being poured into cups. The gold duvet wrapped around my body. Thick fog hanging over the sleeping hills. The halt of the train pulling into Lao Cai - a train station which lies only 1 kilometer away from the Vietnam-China border. A little van chugging uphill as it follows the curvature of the mountains.
That was my introduction to Sapa and I felt like I was falling into a dream as opposed to waking from one.
There was something magical about travelling all night aboard a train and waking up to an entirely different landscape in such a remote part of the country. How was this still Vietnam? But that's the thing about this country, it has one of the most diverse terrains; you can be in a bustling city like Hanoi fighting scooters for a little walking space one day, and then you can find yourself wandering the streets of a small hillside village the next.
Sapa won me over with its mountain views and small town feel on the first day, but it was things like pumpkin soup, water buffaloes roaming the streets, gnocchi Bolognese, fresh mountain air, and strawberry tea, that made me want to linger. (Yes, most of my reasons are food, but trust me, this town knows what it's doing in the cooking department.)
Here are a few photos from my time in Sapa:
Sapa Photo Essay
Visiting Sapa: A Mountain Hillside Town in Northwestern Vietnam: Mountain views in Sapa, Vietnam
{View of Sapa and the surrounding mountains}
Hotel with absolutely epic mountain views in Sapa, Vietnam from different windows
{The best view in town at the Mountain View Hotel}
A local Hmong woman plays with her daughter in Sapa, Vietnam with a beaming grin
{A woman plays with her daughter}
Water buffaloes walking down the bustling street in Sapa, Vietnam as a typical street scene
{Three water buffaloes stroll down a busy road putting traffic on hold}
That Backpacker Audrey Bergner playing with dogs in the streets of Sapa, Vietnam with a big happy grin
{I get friendly with a giant beast of a dog}
Baskets balanced on the back of a motorcycle in Sapa, Vietnam transporting local vegetables
{A man balances two baskets on the back of his motorcycle}
Spices and medicinal herbs at the market in Vietnam with a plethora of options on display
{Spices and medicinal herbs for sale at the market}
Women in conical hats walking the streets of Sapa, Vietnam carrying plastic bottles
{Two women in conical hats carry the recycling using a yoke}
Keeping flies away from the diverse spread of food in Sapa, Vietnam
{A fan keeps flies away from the food on the table}
Small black puppy in Sapa, Vietnam that is beyond cute
{Another furry fellow I met while out walking}
Sunset view in Sapa with beautiful mountain backdrop in Vietnam
{The reason people never leave Sapa}

Practical Magic: Turning Your Sapa Daydream into an Effortless Mountain Escape
If the mist‑cloaked snapshots above have convinced you to pencil Sapa into your Vietnam itinerary, the next step is figuring out how to do it justice. Below you’ll find the nitty‑gritty details I wish I’d had before stepping onto that overnight train: tips for routes and treks, foodie gems worth the uphill walk, cultural etiquette that wins smiles, and packing tricks that save your knees (and dignity) when scrambling muddy rice‑paddy trails.
Getting There & Around Without Losing Your Sanity

Route
Time
Cost (one‑way)
Best For

Hanoi → Lao Cai Sleeper Train
8 hrs
US $25–45 (soft sleeper)
Night owls who value leg‑room and nostalgia

Hanoi Limousine Bus
5.5 hrs
US $18–22
Day‑trippers and budget travellers who sleep anywhere

Lao Cai → Sapa Minivan
45 min
50,000 VND
Winding roads with valley views

Booking Tips:

Splurge on the four‑berth VIP cabins (pumpkin‑colored duvets included).

Buy train tickets at Hanoi Station or reliable agencies like Baolau—avoid touts circling backpacker cafés.

In Lao Cai, insist the minivan drops you in front of your guesthouse. Some drivers divert to a “tour office” first and coax unsuspecting passengers into paid add‑ons.

Once in town, walking is feasible if you’re centrally based. For quick hops—say to Cat Cat waterfall—flag a xe ôm (motorbike taxi) for 40,000 VND. Negotiate fare before hopping on; helmets are non‑negotiable.
When to Go: Chasing the Right Kind of Cloud

March–May: Blue skies + blossoming peach trees. Terraces glow neon green and the nights are cool enough for a blanket burrito.

June–August: Lush, but prone to sudden downpours. Bring a poncho you’re not emotionally attached to.

September–early October: Golden harvest. Bumble‑bee rice stacks and photographers doing acrobatics in muddy paddies.

Late October–February: Frost on rooftops, fireplace evenings, and a chance of snow dustings on Fansipan. Pack fleece layers.

Choosing Your Trek: From Leisurely Rice‑Paddy Strolls to Ridge‑Line Epics

Trail
Distance
Difficulty
What Makes It Special

Cat Cat Village Loop
6 km
★☆☆☆☆
Easy intro to Hmong craft stalls & Instagram‑ready waterfall.

Lao Chai → Ta Van
9 km
★★☆☆☆
Terraced fields dotted with water buffalo; overnight homestays offer sticky‑rice feasts.

Silver Falls & Love Waterfall
12 km return
★★☆☆☆
Cascades framed by pine forest; go weekday mornings to avoid karaoke‑blasting picnickers.

Fansipan Summit
13 km (↑1,400 m) or cable car
★★★★☆
“Roof of Indochina.” Brutal switchbacks, surreal cloud sea. Cable car option for knee‑savers.

Guide vs. DIY?Hiring a local guide (US $15–25 day) directly supports minority families and opens doors to tucked‑away tea stalls and homespun textile workshops. Guides can be arranged at Sapa’s Tourist Information Center or through your homestay with 24‑hour notice.
Food That Fuels the Hikes (and the Soul)
Morning Bowl: Start with pho gá at Pho Bó Sánh (15 Fansipan Rd)—the broth is simmered twelve hours and costs less than a cappuccino.
Lunch Pit‑Stop: If trekking through Muong Hoa Valley, order thắng cố (Hmong horse stew) from roadside kitchens—but ask for “nhiều rau, ít mỡ” (extra herbs, less fat) if offal scares you.
Post‑Trek Comfort: Good Morning View Restaurant serves pumpkin soup the color of a harvest moon and wood‑fired gnocchi bolognese for less than US $5.
Sweet Finish: Wander to Café Gem Valley—a hillside art space run by a husband‑and‑wife painter duo—for strawberry tea and a sunset vantage that will sear itself into your memory card.
Sleep Options: Foggy Balconies vs. Rice‑Paddy Hearths

Style
Price
Perks

Budget Guesthouse (Sapa Town)
$
Hot showers, rooftop city views, 2‑minute walk to night market

Homestay (Ta Van Village)
$$
Hand‑woven quilts, family dinners, rooster alarm clock

Boutique Eco‑Lodge
$$$
Infinity pool overlooking terraces, spa massages that resurrect tired calves

Shoulder‑season discounts slash typical rates by 30 %. Book two nights in town (acclimate + gather supplies) then one or two village overnights to fully sink into mountain rhythm.
Culture Code & Responsible Travel

Buy Direct: Skip factory shops; purchase hand‑stitched indigo textiles straight from Hmong and Dao women along trails. You’ll pay fair prices and funding stays within the valley.

Ask Before Photos: A polite smile and “Chụp ảnh được không?” (May I take a photo?) usually earns a nod; tipping is appreciated if portraits are posed.

Eco‑Respect: Bring a refillable bottle—many cafés now offer free filtered water. Pack out every snack wrapper; plastic incineration is sadly common.

Bargain with Heart: Counter‑offer gently (10–15 % off the initial price) rather than playing hardball over souvenirs that took days to embroider.

Packing Shortlist (Everything Else Is Excess)

Waterproof hiking shoes with decent tread

Quick‑dry socks + a thin pair of flip‑flops for muddy homestay bathrooms

Lightweight down jacket that rolls into its own pocket

Reusable rain poncho (doubles as groundsheet)

Compact headlamp—electricity flickers like fireflies during storms

Dry bag for camera/phone—rice‑paddy slips will happen

Small gifts (colored pencils, postcards of your hometown) to share with host kids—candy creates dentist bills

Pocket Budget: What a Day in Sapa Really Costs

Item
Cost (VND)
USD Approx.

Pho breakfast
45,000
$1.80

Guided day trek
300,000
$12

Homestay (incl. 2 meals)
250,000
$10

Cable car to Fansipan (return)
800,000
$32

Craft beer at Hill Station Taproom
80,000
$3.20

A shoestring traveller can live well on US $25–30/day; factor in a one‑off Fansipan splurge and you’re still under $40.
Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Sapa, Vietnam
What’s the easiest way to get from Hanoi to Sapa?
Two main options: the overnight sleeper train to Lao Cai (≈8 hrs) plus a 45-minute minivan up to Sapa, or a limousine bus direct to Sapa (≈5.5–6 hrs). Trains are comfier for sleeping; buses are faster and cheaper by day.
Do I need a guide for trekking?
Not strictly, but a local Hmong or Dao guide (US $15–25/day) enriches the experience, helps with navigation through rice terraces, and supports families directly. Homestays can arrange guides with 24-hour notice.
When is the best time to visit Sapa?

Mar–May: Clear views, blossoms, cool nights.

Jun–Aug: Lush green, sudden showers—pack a poncho.

Sep–early Oct: Golden harvest; peak photo season.

Late Oct–Feb: Crisp, cold, occasional frost—bring layers.

Is Fansipan doable without a tough hike?
Yes. The Fansipan cable car whisks you near the summit; allow time for steps at the top. Hikers can still trek the full ascent (challenging, steep, weather-dependent).
What should I pack for treks?
Waterproof hiking shoes, quick-dry socks, light down layer, reusable rain poncho, headlamp, dry bag for camera/phone, and flip-flops for muddy homestay bathrooms. Walking poles help on slippery rice-paddy trails.
How many days do I need in Sapa?
2–3 nights works well: one full day for a valley trek (Lao Chai–Ta Van), another for Fansipan or waterfalls (Silver/Love). Add a village homestay night for cozy dinners and sunrise terrace views.
Are homestays comfortable?
They’re simple but welcoming: clean bedding, mosquito nets, hot showers in most, and generous family meals. Expect early mornings (roosters!) and cool nights—bring layers.
What are typical costs in Sapa?
Rough guide: pho breakfast ~45,000 VND ($1.8), guided day trek ~300,000 VND ($12), homestay with 2 meals ~250,000 VND ($10), Fansipan cable car return ~800,000 VND ($32), craft beer ~80,000 VND ($3.2). Budget $25–40/day depending on activities.
How do I get around town and to nearby villages?
Sapa town is walkable if you’re central. For Cat Cat or trailheads, hire a xe ôm (motorbike taxi)—agree the price first and always wear a helmet. Minivans can drop you at guesthouses from Lao Cai.
Any cultural etiquette I should know?
Ask before photos (“Chụp ảnh được không?”), buy direct from artisans, and bargain gently (10–15% off is fine). Carry a refillable water bottle, pack out trash, and avoid hard bargaining over hand-embroidered textiles.
What about weather surprises?
Sapa can swing from sunny to misty quickly. Terraces get slick after rain—go slow on stone steps, keep electronics in a dry bag, and layer up at night (especially Oct–Feb).
Can I find good food and coffee?
Yes! Look for pho gá in the mornings, pumpkin soup and comfort pastas in town, and hillside cafés for strawberry tea and sunset views. Valley treks often include hearty, herb-forward homestay meals.
Have you ever been anywhere like this?


Visiting Spreewald: The Perfect Weekend Getaway in Germany's Spree Forest

Visiting Spreewald was like walking straight into a fairy tale! Imagine a place where people make their home in the heart of the forest. A place where canals outnumber roads and bridges are more common than crosswalks. A place where cars are obsolete since many of the homes are built on little islands, and wildlife roams free regardless of where your fence is.
This almost mythical sounding world is found in Spreewald, known in English as the Spree Forest, and it’s a place that has held on to its own unique German culture and traditions for centuries.
Today, we're going to take you on a little trip to Spreewald!

Spreewald Travel Guide: Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Spreewald, Germany

Visiting Spreewald & how to get there
Sam and I had the opportunity to visit the Spree Forest on my most recent trip to Germany, and it’s a destination that we won’t soon forget.
If you ever find yourself craving a little escape from the busy capital, this place is just a short 1.5-hour drive from Berlin but it feels like you've travelled back through time.
We picked up our rental car at the airport and followed the signs for the A111, to the A100/113/13 towards Lübbenau/Spreewald, taking exit 9 to Lübbenau.
It was a nice drive, especially towards the end, when we started to enter the forest.

Not let me show you just a few of the unique things you can experience in Spreewald:
An introduction to Sorbian culture
First up, we visited the Freilandmuseum Lehde for a glimpse at the 19th-century Sorbian culture that existed in these woods. The place was set up like an open-air museum where you could freely walk around, wander into old homes, and experience some of the games and household duties for yourself -  a great place for children, but also a fun place for adults who like their museum visits to be interactive.
I tried doing the laundry with a washboard the good old fashioned way, and I also attempted walking on stilts (a game that would have been played by the children at the time).
To give you a little bit of background, the Sorbs are a Slavic people who live mainly in the states of Brandenburg and Saxony. They speak their own languages (Wendish and Lusatian), they have their own traditional dress, and they have their own traditions. While their numbers have been shrinking, there is a big effort to try and keep their culture alive, and this outdoor museum is just a small part of it.
Sorbian Houses
While walking through the town with a guide, we learned that 19th-century Sorbian houses had one main room where the bulk of daily life took place - a room where you ate, slept, and carried out various chores.
What caught my eye is that in the corner of the room there was a rather large bed; my guide informed me that the reason for this was that the Sorbs used to sleep on family beds. That meant the grandparents, parents, and children would all share the same mattress as a way of staying warm.
Newlywed couples were sent up to the attic for a month to get on “the baby-making business” (her words, not mine) and then it was back down to the 3 generational bed. How they found time for more romantic escapades after that is beyond me.

Sampling pickles by the barrel
The swampy terrain of Spreewald makes it an ideal location for growing cucumbers and this is a tradition that farmers have long held on to.
When we checked into the hotel, we were surprised to see that there was a Pickle Museum (Gurkenmuseum) right on the premises. That seemed too good to pass up!
The receptionist at the hotel doubled as our tour guide for a half-hour as she shared a bit of the history behind the pickles.
It turns out that many centuries ago, a law was passed allowing farmers to produce a maximum of 500 barrels of pickles without taxation. This was good enough for some, but others wanted to sell more pickles, so since the lawmakers had forgotten to specify how large the pickle barrels could be, the farmers built huge ones. Just check out the size of the barrel I’m standing next to - that was just for pickles! I got to sample different pickles during my visit to the Gurkenmuseum, and as we all know I’m a big fan of any museum that feeds you - I’m thinking back to Berlin’s Currywurst Museum now!
We also learned that a Pickle Festival takes place every summer and that girls from the area submit their best pickle recipes. Judges sample the submissions and the girl with the best tasting pickle recipe is crowned Pickle Queen for the year.
I was sad to miss the big event by only a few weeks, but if you’re in search of a unique festival, this is definitely one worth adding to your calendar.

Punting down the canals in Spreewald
You can’t come to a village where waterways outnumber roads and not travel by punt.
These flat-bottomed boats are a fun way for visitors to experience the forest, but they are also very convenient for locals who need to transport goods - not only did we see crates of beer being delivered to restaurants by punt, but we also learned that some of the homes still receive their mail by punt!
On our second day visiting Spreewald, Sam and I headed down to the canal where we met our ‘punter’ and we set out for a leisurely journey through the woods.
We saw cute little cottages with timbered walls and reed roofs, we went past farms where animals grazed and bales of hay sat forgotten on the fields, and we crossed under wooden bridges that help connect the people who live on this network of islands.
Our guide used a 4.5-meter long pole to manoeuvre the canals and he made it look so easy that I was genuinely surprised when I tried it a few days later and discovered that it actually requires a lot of muscle to propel the punt forward.
Oh, and if you’re an avid kayaker, that’s another fun way to get around Spreewald.

Spa and sauna time at Spreewelten
When I first heard about Spreewelten, I pictured a giant swimming complex geared towards families with children. While that is true to some extent, this place is equally as popular for adults who want to make use of the Sauna Village.
The Sauna Village is a collection of small cottages that have been transformed into saunas. Each cottage has a distinct style; in some, you sit next to wooden carvings of pigs and in others, you sit on wooden carvings of home furniture. There are saunas that smell like lemon and saunas that smell like peppermint. And when it comes to temperature, you have saunas that feel like a day in the tropics and saunas that make you feel like you’re descending into an active volcano as they reach 80 degrees Celsius.
Now before you go packing your swimsuit, I should mention that this is a naked sauna… Men, women, strangers, acquaintances, they all strip down to their birthday suits. Not only that but after the sauna people like to sunbathe…naked.
Having previously travelled to Finland, I already knew about naked sauna (though in Finland it’s generally segregated into men and women), but it still came as a bit of a surprise to find people just hanging out in the nude.
So if you don’t feel totally awkward stripping down in public and you’re up for something a little different, there’s naked sauna in Spreewelten.
Or you can just enjoy the pools, hot tubs, and communal napping areas with your bathing suit on like I did.

Where to stay in Spreewald
While visiting Spreewald we stayed at Hotelanlage Starick, which was located right in the middle of the forest and overlooking a canal.
Not only was the setting beautiful, but it was so peaceful out there that when I woke up at 4:50 a.m. on my first morning, I actually saw a baby deer munching on grass outside my window!
The hotel is also nearby some great restaurants including Quappenschänke (great potato soup with sausage), Gasthaus Hirschwinkel (delicious pike with crispy skin), and Kaupen 6 (Sam ordered a game goulash with cranberries and it was tasty).
For something a little different, the town of Lübbenau has turned part of the train station into a bed and breakfast where you get to sleep in a work of art. Spreewelten Pension has 11 rooms, and each of them was designed by a different local artist.
If you're looking for more places to check out on your trip to Germany, another fascinating German town worth visiting is Quedlinburg.

Spreewald Weekender: Tips, What to Eat, and How to Glide the Canals Like a Local

2–3 Day Spreewald Game Plan (Row-by-Row)

DayBase / OvernightMorningMiddayAfternoonEvening1Lübbenau (gateway town)Arrive by car or regional train; drop bags. Freilandmuseum Lehde for Sorbian life (family bed! attic newlyweds!).Pickle tasting at the Gurkenmuseum or a village farm stand. Picnic on a bridge bench.Punt cruise (1.5–2.5 hrs) from Lübbenau→Lehde→Lübbenau; watch parcels, beer crates, and mail drift by.Spreewelten: sauna village for braver souls (textile-free) or pools/hot tubs (bathing suits). Dinner: fish with crispy skin + potatoes with quark & linseed oil.2Burg (Spreewald) or stay put in LübbenauBike hire and flat loop through meadows to Leipe; coffee and cake along the canal.Kayak/canoe (or SUP) short loop—expect kingfishers if you’re lucky.Spreewald Therme soak (if based in Burg) or second, shorter punt to a café you spotted yesterday.Rustic tavern dinner; try Gurkenradler (beer + lemonade) or regional herb liqueur; early night under star-dark skies.3 (optional)SameDrive/train to Lübben for castle park, then swing to Straupitz (Schinkel church + historic triple mill pressing linseed oil).Farm-to-table lunch; stock up on jars of gherkins for home.Lazy last stroll on the Malócon (Lübbenau harbour boardwalk) with ice cream.Return to Berlin/Dresden with cheeks pink from fresh air and sauna steam.

How long should each stop be?If you only have a weekend, Days 1–2 are the sweet spot. Add Day 3 if you love mills, churches, and slower travel.

Getting There & Getting Around: Transportation Guide

From Berlin (no car):Regional trains (RE) to Lübbenau (Spreewald) or Lübben run frequently; travel time ~1–1.5 hrs depending on departure. From the station, it’s a 15–20-minute stroll or short taxi to the harbour punts. If you’re staying in Burg, take the train to Vetschau or Cottbus and a connecting bus/taxi.

By car:The A13 points you south; the final kilometres meander through fields and pine. Parking is well-signed near harbours; carry coins or a card for machines.

Once there:

On water: Punts (guided), kayaks/canoes (self-paddle), or SUP.

On land: Bicycles (flat trails, easy navigation), and your own two feet.

Taxis & mini-buses fill the gaps between towns if you don’t bike.

Punts and paddles move slowly (that’s the charm!). Build buffer time between activities—you’re here to float, not sprint.

Punt vs. Paddle (Choose Your Glide)

ModeBest ForFeelTime & Price*Good to KnowPunt (Kahn)Stories + scenery with zero effortCozy, social; your punter poling with a 4.5 m staff1–2.5 hrs; ~€18–30 pp group / private from ~€90+Warm layers in shoulder seasons; bring a cushion if you’re fidgety. Book a themed cruise (sunset, mulled wine, pickle tastings).Kayak/CanoePhotographers, independent explorersQuiet, close to water; dragonflies as escortsHire by hour or day; from ~€10–15/hr per boatCollect a water map; canals are signed like streets. Pack dry bag, snack, and respect right-of-way—the punts are bigger than you.SUPCore workout + calm stretchesPlayful, great for golden hourOften ~€15–20/hrChoose wide boards; mornings are glassy, afternoons breezier.

What (and Where) to Eat: A Mini Field Guide

Spreewald table culture is hearty, local, and perfect after a chilly glide.

Spreewälder Gurken (gherkins): Dill, garlic, mustard seed, sometimes spicy—buy by the jar from farm stalls or museum shops.

Pellkartoffeln mit Quark & Leinöl: Earthy boiled potatoes with tangy quark and linseed oil (nutty, golden). When in Straupitz, visit the historic mill where the oil is still pressed.

Zander & Hecht: Pike-perch and pike are common mains; crispy-skin is the house style.

Cucumber soup and cucumber lemonade make summer sing; in autumn, switch to pumpkin and mushroom specials.

Plinse: Fluffy pancakes (try with apple or quark).

Liquid locals: Gurkenradler (beer + lemon soda), regional pils, or a post-meal Kräuterlikör.

Where to try:

Lehde & Leipe taverns right on the canals (menus scribbled on boards; portions generous).

Lübbenau harbour—easy for first tastes right after a cruise.

Burg boasts the Spreewald Therme restaurant for wholesome spa-style dishes.

Ordering tip: Menus lean seasonal; if you see “Tagesgericht” (daily special), trust it.

Seasons, What to Pack, and When to Visit

SeasonWhat it feels likePack EmphasisSpring (Apr–May)Waking forest, cool mornings, fresh windsLight down or fleece, waterproof shell, beanie, cotton scarf, closed-toe shoes for damp banksSummer (Jun–Aug)Lush green, warm to hot; best paddlingSunhat, breathable layers, sandals that strap on, mosquito repellent, swimwear for spaAutumn (Sep–Oct)Amber reeds, crisp air, misty morningsWool sweater/cardigan, rain jacket, fingerless gloves, thermos for teaWinter (Nov–Mar)Quiet magic; occasional snow; sauna prime timeHeavy coat, thermal leggings, warm socks, sauna flip-flops + towel/robe if you’re spa-hopping

Costs & Booking at a Glance (Typical Ranges

ExperienceBudgetOpen-air museum (Freilandmuseum Lehde)~€6–9 ppGroup punt (1.5–2.5 hrs)~€18–30 ppPrivate punt (2 hrs)from ~€90 per boatKayak/Canoe hire~€10–15/hr or €30–45/daySpa/sauna day ticket~€20–35 pp; towel/robe rental extraBike hire~€10–15/dayParking near harbours~€3–8/day

Reserve punts and spa slots on sunny weekends and school holidays. On shoulder-season weekdays, you can often stroll up and sail away.

Sorbian Culture: Brief History

Who are the Sorbs? A West Slavic people with roots in Brandenburg and Saxony, speakers of Lower/Upper Sorbian (you’ll see bilingual signs).

Family beds & attic honeymoons: The 19th-century practice you saw at Freilandmuseum Lehde isn’t a fairy tale—it was a practical heating solution and a peek into community life.

Why so many cucumbers? The wetland microclimate + sandy soils = cucumber paradise. Pickling preserved harvests before refrigeration—and created a brand the region still proudly wears.

Poling, not paddling: The Kahn and pole technique are to Spreewald what gondolas are to Venice—workhorse and icon.

A few friendly words:

“Witajśo!” (Welcome! in Lower Sorbian)

“Dźakuję!” (Thank you!)

“Gurke” (cucumber) is universal—smiles guaranteed.

Where to Sleep (and Why You’ll Love It)

Canal-edge inns around Lehde/Lübbenau give you sunrise punts and deer grazing cameos.

Art rooms at Spreewelten Pension (Lübbenau station) turn overnights into gallery sleepovers.

Burg (Spreewald) options suit spa-first travellers—Spreewald Therme is a robe’s swish away.

Farm stays pop up in outlying hamlets; expect breakfast spreads that redefine “local.”

Booking note: Weekends in June–September fill fast; midweek shoulder season is calm and good-value.

Spreewald FAQ: Plan Your Getaway Weekend

1) What’s the easiest way to reach Spreewald from Berlin without a car?

Regional trains run frequently from Berlin to Lübbenau (Spreewald) and Lübben in about an hour to 90 minutes. From either station it’s a short taxi ride or a 15–20 minute walk to the harbours where punts and kayak rentals are based. If you’re staying in Burg (Spreewald), connect via Vetschau or Cottbus and take a local bus or taxi the last few kilometres.

2) Should I book a punt cruise in advance or just show up?

On sunny weekends and school holidays, book ahead—especially if you want a themed or private cruise. On shoulder-season weekdays you can usually stroll up and join the next departure. If rain looks likely, ask for a covered punt when you reserve.

3) Punt, kayak, or SUP—what’s right for me?

Choose a guided punt if you want stories, zero effort, and a guaranteed route through photogenic canals. Pick a kayak or canoe if you like setting your own pace, stopping for photos, and exploring quieter side arms; just grab a water map and follow canal signage. SUP is ideal for short, calm sessions at golden hour. Families often mix a short punt on Day 1 and a gentle paddle loop on Day 2.

4) How many days do I need and what’s a simple itinerary?

Two days is perfect for a first visit: arrive and tour the Freilandmuseum Lehde, taste pickles, and take a punt on Day 1; bike to Leipe and hire a kayak or visit a spa on Day 2. Add a third day if you’d like to see Straupitz’s historic mill and church, linger in Lübben’s castle park, or schedule more sauna time.

5) When is the best season to visit?

Spreewald is lovely year-round. Summer brings lush reeds, warm paddling, and long evenings; spring is fresh and quiet. Autumn delivers amber colours and misty mornings that look like oil paintings. Winter trades motion for mood—silent canals, early twilights, and peak sauna culture. Pack layers in every season and expect cool mornings near the water.

6) What should I eat and drink while I’m there?

Start with Spreewälder gherkins—mild, garlicky, or spicy—and potatoes with quark and nutty linseed oil. River fish like pike-perch with crispy skin is a classic, as are cucumber soup in summer and hearty game stews in autumn. For sweets, try plinse (fluffy pancakes). Wash it down with a local pils, a herb liqueur, or a refreshing “Gurkenradler” (beer cut with lemon soda).

7) Is Spreewald good for kids?

Yes—flat bike paths, short punt loops, playgrounds in Lübben/Lübbenau, and family pools at Spreewelten make it easy with little travellers. Keep water activities shorter (60–90 minutes), carry snacks, and let them help spot kingfishers, ducks, and herons from the boat.

8) I’ve heard about “naked sauna.” What’s the etiquette?

Textile-free sauna culture is normal in the Sauna Village at Spreewelten and at Spreewald Therme. Shower before and after, bring or rent a towel to sit on, and keep voices low—saunas are for unwinding. Pools and public areas often allow or require swimwear; the signage is clear, so follow posted rules and you’ll be fine.

9) What does “Sorbian” mean and where can I learn more?

The Sorbs are a West Slavic minority native to Brandenburg and Saxony with their own language, dress, and customs. You’ll see bilingual signs and, in museums, family-bed sleeping arrangements and traditional farm life. The Freilandmuseum Lehde is the best hands-on introduction, and village events in summer showcase music, crafts, and foodways that keep the culture alive.

10) How much should I budget for activities?

Typical ballpark figures: €18–30 per person for a 1.5–2.5-hour group punt, from around €90 for a private boat, €10–15 per hour to hire a kayak or canoe, €20–35 for a spa/sauna day ticket (plus small fees for towel/robe rental), and €10–15 per day for a bike. Museum entries are usually under €10. Prices vary by season and operator, but these ranges cover most plans.

11) Any packing tips I’ll be glad I read later?

Bring layers that block wind on the water, a compact rain shell, and shoes that can handle damp banks. For paddling, add a hat, sunscreen, bug spray in summer, and a small dry bag for your phone and camera. Spa-goers should pack flip-flops and a towel or plan to rent on site. Photographers will love a polarizing filter and a microfiber cloth for misty mornings.

12) What unique events should I try to catch?

Summer gherkin festivals (“Gurkentage”) rotate among towns, complete with tastings, music, and the crowning of a Pickle Queen. Throughout the warm months you’ll find themed punt rides—sunset, mulled wine in shoulder season, even tasting cruises. Check notice boards at the Lübbenau or Lübben tourist offices when you arrive; schedules change, but there’s almost always something delicious or musical floating by.

Have you ever visited Spreewald or any other cool villages set in the forest?

This trip was planned in partnership with the German National Tourism Board as part of their #JoinGermanTradition campaign which seeks to highlight unique customs and traditions across Germany.