Visit Edinburgh, Scotland: Wizardry, Hauntings and Grave Robbers

Last year I visited Edinburgh in the wintertime to attend the Hogmanay year-end celebrations, however, as I walked around the city on my first day there, I couldn't help thinking of another popular celebration: Halloween.
There's something about this city that lends itself well to spooky tales and ghoulish characters, and as I soon learned, I wouldn't have to let my imagination run too wild.
Edinburgh does have a bit of a dark history - one that includes hauntings, grave robbers, and even a bit of wizardry! Over the course of my visit I got to experience a few of these, and with Halloween just around the corner I thought I'd share a different side of Edinburgh, Scotland.

Edinburgh Castle
Located atop Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle has been a major fortification for hundreds of years. The castle is a fascinating complex which is home to treasures like the Crown Jewels, the famed medieval cannon Mons Meg, and St. Margaret's Chapel (which also happens to be the oldest surviving building in the city!), however, aside from its rich history, Edinburgh Castle is also believed to have quite a few resident ghosts that on occasion reveal themselves.

These apparitions include the phantom piper, who is believed to be the ghost of a man who vanished while exploring the underground tunnels beneath the Royal Mile; the ghost of the headless drummer, whose drums can be heard when the castle is about to be attacked (he hasn't been seen in many years); the spirits of the French prisoners, men who fought in the Seven Years War; and even the ghost of a dog, who has been spotted wandering around the castle's very own dog cemetery.
But don't let that spook you. I visited at nighttime and lived to tell the tale.

Mary King's Close
Deep beneath Edinburgh's Royal Mile lies a world that has remained forgotten for hundreds of years. What you see above ground is the new Edinburgh, but the Edinburgh of old can still be found standing beneath the busy street. One of the most famed underground spots is Mary King's Close.
A 'close' is the Scots word for a narrow alleyway. These were generally named after the most prominent citizen in the close, and in this case it was Mary King, a mother of four who though widowed was able to make a good living. She owned several of the properties along the lane, and so the close was named after her.

In 1645, Edinburgh was hit by the Great Plague. It was a devastating epidemic and it is believed that up to half of the city's population succumbed to it. Those who fell sick with the plague were either forbidden from leaving their homes, or moved to quarantined huts outside the city walls. It was a desperate attempt by the authorities to try and salvage Edinburgh's population.
This epidemic, in turn, gave birth to a popular myth surrounding Mary King’s Close. The tale says that in their desperation to combat the plague, officials made the decision to brick up the close leaving more than 300 residents trapped. Both the infected and the non-infected had no escape and ultimately died in their homes.
This was so long ago that no one can tell for sure whether it actually happened, but it does explain why the close is believed haunted.

The Grave Robbers
In the 1800s, medical sciences began to flourish and students flocked to universities to learn about anatomy. Cadavers were needed for these lessons, but up until this time only the cadavers of executed criminals could be used since this practice was considered taboo. However, with the reduction of executions being carried out in the early nineteenth century a problem arose: demands for bodies were high, but there simply weren't enough corpses for dissection to go around.

This led to the practice of grave-robbing. Body-snatchers lurked around cemeteries waiting for the dead to be buried, and later that night they would sneak into the burial yard where they would dig up the grave and steal the body. Of course, as churches caught on to what was happening in their graveyards, they started keeping watch, making it a lot more difficult for grave robbers to continue their business venture. But since there was still a lot of money to be made selling corpses this caused certain individuals to turn to crime; two of the most prominent names being Burke and Hare.

William Burke and William Hare were two Irish immigrants who arrived in Edinburgh in search of new opportunities. Seeing body-snatching was in high demand, they decided to make a business of it. The first body they sold was that of a man who died of natural causes, but they soon realized that they could make a lot more money by murdering people rather than waiting for them to pass. This lead to a murder spree across the city. The two men killed a total of 16 victims over the course of 10 months, all of which ended up in the anatomy lectures of Doctor Robert Knox who was a professor at the University of Edinburgh...
Hare and Burke were eventually caught and hanged for their crimes, but their legend still lives on in the city.

The Harry Potter Trail
Potter fans have good reason to come to Edinburgh. After all this is the city where J.K. Rowling drew much of her inspiration for the Harry Potter series.
One of the most popular spots is the Elephant House Cafe which we might call the birthplace of Harry Potter. This little coffee shop which overlooks Edinburgh Castle is where Rowling penned the first book of the series Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone. Today visitors can grab a cup of coffee and perhaps even snag a seat where Rowling herself sat.
For those with a big budget, the Balmoral Hotel is another spot that has shot to the limelight. This hotel is where Rowling completed the final book of the series titled Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, and some of the hardcore fans have been booking themselves in at the same 5 star property where the author penned the novel.  At almost £ 1,000 a night, Room 552 doesn't come cheap!

Next up is George Heriot's School, a striking building with grand turrets and many intricate carvings. Established in 1628, this school is believed to have provided some inspiration for the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.
And last but not least, a certain tombstone in Greyfriar's Kirkyard has also garnered quite a bit of attention. In the Harry Potter books, Lord Voldemort also known as "He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named", is said to have been born as Tom Riddle. It just so happens that there is a grave at Greyfriar's Kirkyard for a man by the name of Thomas Riddle, and this is reason enough for Potter fans to make the pilgrimage.
And these are just a few of the reasons why Edinburgh got me thinking of dark tales and grim characters.

Your Ultimate Spooky-Chic Edinburgh Planner (Routes, Weather Cheats, Tickets & Tips)

You’ve met the castle ghosts, crept through Mary King’s Close, and side-eyed the grave robbers. Now here’s the practical, pretty gritty version of everything you need to actually plan it.

When To Go (Edinburgh-Specific Weather Cheats)

Month WindowTypical Temps & FeelDaylightWhat To Wear/PackSept – early Oct9–16 °C / 48–61 °F, golden evenings, occasional drizzle11–13 hrsTrench with hood, ankle boots, scarf, light knit, compact umbrellaMid Oct – Nov5–12 °C / 41–54 °F, windy spells, fast sunsets8–10 hrsWool coat + sweater, opaque tights, beanie, touch-screen glovesDec – early Jan1–8 °C / 34–46 °F, crisp, festive lights, chance of sleet7 hrsWarm parka, merino base, thick socks, neck gaiter for toursFeb – Mar2–9 °C / 36–48 °F, bright but chilly, frequent showers9–11 hrsWaterproof shell over layers, water-resistant boots, spare socks

Where to Base (Old Stones vs. Georgian Calm)

AreaVibeBest ForGood To KnowOld Town (Royal Mile/Grassmarket)Cobblestones, closes, eternal dramaGhost walks, Mary King’s Close, Greyfriars, quick castle accessStairs, slopes, and late-night pub noise—ask for a rear roomNew Town (Princes/George St.)Georgian elegance, big windowsShopping, easy airport tram/bus, quieter sleeps10–15 min uphill walk to the Mile (worth it for the calm)Southside/UniversityCafés and student buzzSurgeon’s Hall, budget eats, quick museum hoppingGreat value; nights are lively when term is on

2 Days in Spookytown

DayMorningMiddayAfternoonEvening1Old Town check-in, coffee on the Royal Mile; peek into St Giles’Simple soup/pie lunchMary King’s Close tour (pre-book); wander Victoria St → GrassmarketBlue hour at The Vennel for that castle shot → Ghost tour (vaults or cemetery) → nightcap at Devil’s Advocate2Edinburgh Castle first entry (quieter photos)Sandwiches on the Esplanade or picnic in Princes St GardensGreyfriars Kirkyard (look for calm corners), glance at George Heriot’s from outsideSunset on Calton Hill → cosy pub dinner (haggis or veggie haggis) → whisky flight

Bonus Night (if you can): add Surgeons’ Hall Museums + Dean Village the next morning for soft, fairy-tale contrast.

Ghost Tour Picker (Choose Your Flavor of Fright)

Tour TypeBest ForExpectBooking TipUnderground Vaults (South Bridge)Adrenaline seekersTight spaces, total darkness, centuries-old talesNot great for claustrophobia; bring a small torch (ask before using)Cemetery Walks (Greyfriars/Canongate)History loversMore folklore, less jump-scare, lots of names & datesEarliest evening slot = smaller groups & better audibilityTheatrical Ghost WalkFamilies & fun-firstCapes, candles, comic timing with true loreStand near the guide for photos/audio; tip if you loved itAdults-OnlyGrown-up nightsDarker tales, fewer kids, sometimes spicy languageCheck age limits at booking time

Self-Guided “Spirits & Stories” Mini-Route

StopLook ForLittle BonusCastle EsplanadeVolcanic rock base, cannon lines, skylineIf bagpipes echo, pretend it’s the phantom piper 😉Advocates’ CloseNarrow frame toward Scott MonumentGrab a moody portrait here; it’s lantern-lit at nightMary King’s CloseTime-capsule alleyways below the MileBook late-afternoon, then emerge into blue hour for dramaVictoria Street → GrassmarketCurved, colorful façades, witch-trial plaquesWarm up with hot toddy before your tourGreyfriars KirkyardStory-laden headstones, Kirkyard wallsKeep voices soft; aim for twilight silhouettes

Respect reminder: cemeteries are active places of rest—stay on paths, avoid rubbings/props, and keep photography unobtrusive.

Potter-Trail Essentials (with Etiquette)

SpotWhy It’s FunEtiquette / Reality CheckVictoria StreetDiagon-Alley vibesShop, snap, don’t block doorways; mornings are quietestGreyfriars Names“Thomas Riddle” & friends on headstonesNo touching/rubbings; short, respectful visits onlyGeorge Heriot’s (view from outside)School that feels…HogwartsIt’s a working school—admire from public points onlyWriting Cafés in Old TownEarly chapters took shape hereThese are small cafés—order, be quick at peak timesClock-topped hotel in New TownFinal book finished hereLobby peeks are free; rooms are a splurge—treat if you wish

Burke & Hare Thread (Anatomy of a Dark Chapter)

StopWhat You’ll LearnTipSurgeons’ Hall MuseumsHow medical teaching fueled cadaver demandPlan 90–120 minutes; superb rainy-day stopCanongate KirkyardHistoric burials tied to the eraWear boots; ground gets soft after rainGrassmarketGallows history beneath today’s pubsRead the plaques—they’re brief but powerful

Rain Plan That Still Feels On-Theme

PlaceWhy It WorksPair It WithNational Museum of ScotlandGrand halls + curiosities for hoursCoffee on the terrace when skies breakSurgeons’ HallGory, brilliant, endlessly fascinatingSouthside café crawl afterwardsScottish National GalleryOld Masters and hushStroll the gardens if the sun peeks outCamera ObscuraWhimsy + rooftop viewsNight photography practice nearby

Cosy Eats & Warming Sips (Post-Tour Comforts)

Whisky flight: Bow Bar (old school) or a stylish dram at Devil’s Advocate.

Comfort plates: Haggis, neeps & tatties; or vegetarian haggis for a peppery, meat-free win.

Sweet ending: Sticky toffee pudding or cranachan.

Hot toddy basics: Whisky + honey + lemon + cloves—order it anywhere; it’s a right of passage.

Tickets, Timing & Little Money Savers

Pre-book: Edinburgh Castle (first or final slot), Mary King’s Close, your preferred ghost tour.

Arrive early: At popular sites, being 10–15 minutes ahead smooths everything.

Discounts: Students/under-26/seniors—bring ID. National museums are free (donations welcome).

Transport: Airport tram to the New Town; the airport bus is great if you’re Old Town-bound.

Bundles: If you’re also visiting Holyroodhouse or the Royal Yacht, run the numbers on combo passes vs. single tickets.

Packing for Night Tours (Micro-List)

Waterproof jacket with hood, compact umbrella

Base layer + warm mid-layer, scarf, thin gloves

Grippy boots or sneakers (no slick soles)

Small torch/phone light (ask before using in tours)

External battery + hand sanitizer + tissues

Budget Snapshot (Just to Frame Expectations)

ItemTypical Spend RangeCastle or specialty museum entry££Ghost tour / Mary King’s Close££Pub main + dessert£–££Whisky flight£–££City transport (tram/bus single)£

(£ = wallet-friendly, ££ = mid-range treat)

Pre-Trip Checklist (Print/Screenshot)

✅ Pick base (Old Town for atmosphere, New Town for calm)

✅ Reserve: Castle, Mary King’s Close, ghost tour

✅ Add one rainy-day museum (Surgeons’ Hall is a gem)

✅ Pack layers + grippy footwear + compact brolly

✅ Save your Self-Guided Route map & the 2-Day Plan

✅ Charge camera/phone; clear storage—you’ll fill it

Edinburgh FAQ: Wizardry, Hauntings & Practicalities

1) What’s the best time of year for spooky Edinburgh without freezing?Late September to mid-November. You’ll get long twilights, fewer crowds, and plenty of ghost-tour availability. Pack layers, a hooded coat, and water-resistant boots.

2) Are ghost tours scary or just storytelling?Both exist. “Vaults” tours lean darker and claustrophobic; cemetery walks are history-rich and gentler. Read the tour style and age guidance before booking and choose an early evening slot for a lighter tone.

3) Can kids do ghost tours?Yes—look for family or “PG” versions (often 60–75 minutes, earlier times). Bring a warm layer, a small snack, and manage expectations: it’s mostly walking and listening.

4) How far in advance should I book Edinburgh Castle and Mary King’s Close?For weekends/holidays, a week or two ahead is smart; midweek in shoulder season, a few days is usually fine. Aim for the day’s first entry at the Castle and late afternoon at Mary King’s Close (then roll into blue-hour photos).

5) Is Mary King’s Close accessible if I don’t like tight spaces?There are narrow stairs and confined sections. If you’re claustrophobic or have mobility concerns, email the venue for the accessibility route and safety notes before purchasing tickets.

6) What’s respectful behavior in Greyfriars Kirkyard?Keep voices low, stay on paths, don’t touch or lean on headstones, and avoid flash photography near active services. If you visit the well-known “Thomas Riddle” grave, keep it brief and unobtrusive.

7) Where are the best moody photo spots at dusk?The Vennel (castle framed by stone steps), Victoria Street after rain (reflections), Calton Hill at sunset, and the Castle Esplanade during blue hour. Brace your camera/phone on a wall and let Night Mode work.

8) I’m here for Harry Potter—what’s realistic etiquette?Victoria Street is a working street, cafés are small, and George Heriot’s is an active school (admire from public viewpoints only). Buy something if you linger in a café; mornings are quietest for photos.

9) What should I wear for night tours on cobbles?Grippy footwear, a hooded waterproof layer, warm mid-layer, scarf/beanie, and thin gloves. Bring a compact umbrella and a small power bank—many tours last 60–90 minutes outdoors.

10) I only have two days—how should I structure them?Day 1: Old Town wander → Mary King’s Close → Ghost tour.Day 2: Edinburgh Castle first thing → Princes Street Gardens lunch → Greyfriars/George Heriot’s → Calton Hill sunset → cosy pub. Book the three timed items in that order.

11) What if it pours all day?Trade your outdoor loop for Surgeons’ Hall Museums (medical history that ties into the Burke & Hare story), the National Museum of Scotland, or the Scottish National Gallery. Slot a warm pub or tea break between venues.

12) How pricey is a “spooky” weekend?Expect mid-range spends: paid entries (Castle/Mary King’s Close), one guided tour, and a couple of pub meals. National museums are free (donations welcome), and walking the closes, Calton Hill, and kirkyards is free.

Have you been to Edinburgh?What city gets your imagination running a bit wild?


Visit Islas Ballestas, Peru: Sea lions, penguins and pelicans, oh my!

The Islas Ballestas are often nicknamed as Peru’s very own Galapagos Islands, and while I think this title is a bit farfetched, there is some pretty cool wildlife to experience on these islands.

We stopped in Paracas (which is the jump off point for the islands) on our way down to Ica for the weekend. I was a bit worried about showing up without a reservation, but as it turns out, tours for the Ballestas Islands leave quite frequently especially on the weekends when both Limeños and international tourists choose to make the trip to the famed islands.
The main street in Paracas was lined with tour operators offering their services, but we ultimately walked into the boat terminal and booked everything there.

The Paracas Candelabra is 180 meters tall and it can be seen from a distance of up to 12 miles out at sea. The design is carved 2 feet into the ground, and it has been around for over 2000 years. Our guide explained that because of where the candelabra is positioned - on the north shore of the peninsula - the mysterious symbol is shielded from most of the wind. This combined with the arid climate and lack of rain means the Candelabra has been able to withstand the test of time.
Like most geoglyphs around the world, no one quite knows what purpose it served. Our guide shared a number of options including: a marker to guide ships towards the harbour, a symbol dedicated to the Argentine liberator José de San Martín, a representation of a hallucinogenic plant called Jimson weed, and of course, there was even mention of extraterrestrials. The truth is no one really knows.
Incredible Wildlife Of The Ballestas in Peru!
But now on to the wildlife!
We got to see a lot of really cool animals on our tour of the Ballestas Islands. I was mistakenly under the impression that we would set foot on the islands, but the tour boats don't actually disembark there. It makes sense considering the thousands of animals that make this place their home (I'm sure the sea lions wouldn't appreciate 30 camera-totting tourists trying to snap their picture several times every hour), however, this also means that you have to appreciate them from a distance.
So what did we see?

Humboldt penguins looking rather dashing in their suits!

Sunfish, which are similar to starfish except with way more tentacles. I had never heard of these prior to visiting Islas Ballestas.

Sea lions lounging in the sun. It's always nap time when you're a sea lion.

It was birthing season so there were hundreds of sea lion pups. They are the ones that look a bit darker in colour.
There were also pelicans, cormorants, and Inca terns which have red beaks and red feet. I couldn't get any close up shots of the terns, but you'll have to trust me when I tell you they are pretty cool looking birds.

We also learned about the importance of the guano (bird droppings) found on the islands. If this wooden bridge looks a little odd it's because it's only intended for use by the guano collectors who scour the islands every 11 years. Due to its richness in minerals like nitrate, phosphorous and carbon, guano makes a great fertilizer and its often used in agriculture. Our guide was explaining that the bird droppings on this islands have actually been used to pay off Peru's international debt - you've got to appreciate the humour in that!

Tips for visiting Islas Ballestas:

If you get seasick, consider taking some motion sickness pills. Even though the sea wasn’t particularly choppy on the day I visited, the starting-stopping motion made me a little queasy, as did the exhaust fumes coming from the boat every time we started up the engine again.
Bring a hat and wear sunblock. There won’t be much in terms of shade on the way to the island, or even once you reach the island.
Choose any seat near the back. Don’t worry about being on the right-hand side or the left-hand side of the boat to get the best shot. Our captain was quite diplomatic and made sure to approach the island from both sides so that everyone could get a good view regardless of where they were seated. There are slightly raised windows to shield you from the wind towards the front of the boat (these don't necessarily impede your view), but the back is better for photography.
Bring your telephoto lens! If you want to get some good shots of the animals, it's worth hauling this lens along. I brought a small point-and-shoot and while I walked away with some cool shots, I couldn't really capture any of the birds. If you really want to capture the wildlife, you're going to need something a bit more powerful than what I had.
Bring a set of binoculars. Lastly, if you're really into wildlife spotting, it might even be worth brining a set of binoculars to really admire the finer details...otherwise you'll just be looking at a cliff dotted with hundreds of birds.

Cost
There are 2 different costs associated with visiting Islas Ballestas; the first is the transportation fee and the second is the fee you pay for entering the national conservation area. The 2 hour tour I took cost 40 soles per person ($13 USD) and the national conservation fee was an additional 10 soles ($3 USD). Not a bad deal if you ask me.
Getting there
Islas Ballestas can either be done as a day trip or a weekend trip from Lima. I did the latter and spent the weekend visiting Paracas, Ica and Huacachina. I drove down with my relatives along the South Pan American Highway and it took us about 3 hours to get there. If you're taking a bus from Lima to Paracas it can take anywhere between 3.5 to 4 hours and buses leave throughout the day.

Paracas: Wildlife-Packed Weekend Around the Ballestas
When to Go & What You’ll See

Month
Ocean Conditions
Wildlife Highlights
Crowd Level

Dec–Mar (Southern summer)
Glassy mornings, afternoon chop
Sea-lion pups nursing; rare chance to spot green sea turtles
High (Peruvian school holidays)

Apr–Jun
Calm, cool °C 17–20 water
Humboldt penguins nest; dolphins often escort boats
Moderate

Jul–Sept
Breezy / misty “garúa” fog
Largest guano bird population, dramatic skies
Low-mid (bring a windbreaker)

Oct–Nov
Transition—sun by noon
Pelican courtship dances
Rising (pre-Christmas city breaks)

TL;DR – April and early May win for a sweet spot of wildlife density, calm seas, and lighter queues at the dock.

Choosing the Right Boat Operator

Dock vs. Kiosk Sales

Street sellers quote S/35–S/45 but sometimes overbook and shuffle you to a later boat.

Terminal booth (Muelle Turístico) sets standardized times, caps capacity at 35 seats, includes mandatory life-vests. I paid S/40 and boarded exactly at 08:00.

Spanish vs. Bilingual GuideAsk explicitly for guía bilingüe. Roughly half the boats broadcast Spanish only, leaving non-Spanish speakers guessing which black blob is a cormorant vs. a booby.

Morning (07:45–09:00) or Late-Morning (10:30)

Early boats enjoy calmer swells and better penguin activity (they head to sea by 10).

Later boats can dodge sunrise chill but risk stronger wind chop—bad news if motion sickness stalks you.

Sustainability CheckLook for operators displaying the Reserva Nacional de Paracas “Distintivo Azul” decal; it certifies boat engines meet new low-emission guidelines and captains follow the 30-metre wildlife buffer.

Sample 48-Hour Itinerary

Time
Day 1 – Desert + Dunes
Day 2 – Ballestas & Beyond

07:30
—
Depart hotel, board 08:00 Ballestas boat

09:30
Drive into Paracas National Reserve
Return to dock; ceviche brunch at El Che (Malecón)

11:00
Mirador de La Catedral sea-arch
Taxi to Museo Julio C. Tello (pre-Inca mummies

13:00
Lunch, Lagunillas fishing cove; order jalea seafood mix
Collect bags, combi to Ica (1 hr)

15:30
Playa Playa Roja red-sand photos
El Catador winery tour & pisco tasting

17:00
Return Paracas; sunset paddleboard in bay
Tuk-tuk to Huacachina oasis; dune-buggy sunset ride

19:30
Seaside dinner at Pisco y Nazca
Overnight in Huacachina or bus back to Lima

Tight on time? Flip the days and head straight to the 08:00 Ballestas boat on arrival, freeing the afternoon for the reserve.
Where to Sleep

Budget
Property
Price (dbl)
Perks

$
Kokopelli Hostel
from US $18 pp (dorm)
Pool, rooftop bar, 2-min walk to dock

$$
Hotel Gran Palma
US $65
Bay-view terrace breakfast & AC

$$$
Aranwa Paracas Resort & Spa
US $145
Two infinity pools, private pier—families love it

Splurge
Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection
US $280
Yachts, flamingo lagoon, free paddle boards

Tip: Winds howl at night (Paracas means “rain of sand” in Quechua). Pick a place with interior corridors or double glazing if you’re a light sleeper.
Packing & Photography Cheats

Waterproof dry-bag – salt spray spares no DSLR.

70–200 mm zoom (or 100–400 mm on crop-sensor) – perfect focal length for sea-lion portraits from 20–30 m.

Circular polariser – cuts glare off the guano-whitened cliff faces; boosts penguin contrast.

Quick-dry buff + wide-brim hat – you’ll swing from icy mist to harsh UV within an hour.

Motion-sickness tabs – time them 45 min before boarding; Peruvian brand “Gravol C” costs S/6 at any botica.

Sustainable Wildlife Etiquette

Do
Don’t

Photograph with silent shutter if your camera supports it.
Toss snack scraps—gulls become aggressive beggars.

Keep limbs inside boat; startled sea lions can stampede pups.
Fly drones—the reserve banned them after repeated seal disturbances.

Support the Red de Tortugas charity stall at the pier (funds marine-debris clean-ups).
Pocket seashells; they’re protected here.

Pairing with Pisco & Sand Boarding
After the morning swell, most travellers beeline to Ica’s vineyards or Huacachina’s dunes. Getting there is simple:

Colectivo Van Paracas→Ica Plaza de Armas: S/15, 60 min, departs when full (approx. every 30 min).

From Ica, a moto-tuk-tuk to Huacachina Oasis is S/8, 10 min.

Vineyard circuits by taxi (three bodegas + wait time) cost ~S/80 total.

Must-try pisco cocktails? Start with an Ica Sour—pisco infused with sun-dried naranja peels—and finish with a sweet algorrobina shake (pisco, carob syrup, condensed milk).
Cost Breakdown (Per Person, 2 Days)

Expense
Soles
USD

08:00 Ballestas boat
40
13

Reserve entry (Paracas)
11
3

Hostel dorm x1
70
22

Seafood lunches x2
80
25

Taxi/van/tuk transports
60
18

Dune-buggy & sandboard
55
17

Pisco tasting flight
35
11

Total
351
109

Add S/50 if you can’t resist those aloe-rubbed penguin fridge magnets.
No, the Ballestas aren’t the Galápagos—but that’s precisely their charm. You’ll pay a fraction of the price, spot most headline creatures (minus giant tortoises), and cap the day with ceviche so fresh the plate still smells of surf.
FAQ: Visiting Islas Ballestas in Paracas, Peru
Thinking of visiting Islas Ballestas to see Peru’s incredible coastal wildlife up close? Here are some of the most common questions travelers ask before hopping on a boat in Paracas.
What exactly are the Islas Ballestas?
The Islas Ballestas are a group of rocky islands just off the coast of Paracas, known for their rich biodiversity. You’ll find sea lions, Humboldt penguins, pelicans, cormorants, and thousands of seabirds nesting along dramatic cliffs and hidden coves. Because they’re part of a protected reserve, visitors admire the wildlife from boats rather than setting foot on the islands.
How do you get to Islas Ballestas from Lima?
It’s a straightforward journey down the South Pan American Highway. Driving takes about 3 hours, while buses take around 3.5–4 hours. Once you arrive in Paracas, it’s a short walk to the pier where boats depart. Many travelers do it as a day trip, but spending the weekend lets you explore Paracas National Reserve, Ica’s vineyards, or the Huacachina dunes as well.
Do I need to book my tour in advance?
Not necessarily. Tours to Islas Ballestas run frequently, especially on weekends, and you can easily book on arrival at the Paracas boat terminal. Street vendors also sell tickets, but the official Muelle Turístico booth is the most reliable—boats leave on time, capacity is capped, and life vests are mandatory.
How much does it cost to visit?
Expect to pay about S/40 (USD $13) for the 2-hour boat tour plus a S/10–11 (USD $3) fee for entry to the Paracas National Reserve. Altogether, it’s a surprisingly affordable wildlife experience compared to places like the Galápagos.
What kind of wildlife will I see?
This is the fun part! Sea lions are the stars of the show, often lounging in noisy colonies or barking from the rocks. You’ll also spot Humboldt penguins (yes, penguins in Peru!), pelicans, Inca terns with their striking red beaks and feet, and a variety of cormorants. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of dolphins or green sea turtles depending on the season.
Can I land on the islands?
No—you stay on the boat the entire time. The islands are protected, and disembarkation isn’t allowed to safeguard the wildlife habitats. Don’t worry, though; captains maneuver close enough for excellent viewing and photography from both sides of the boat.
When is the best time to visit Islas Ballestas?
April and early May are ideal for calm seas, nesting penguins, and lighter crowds. December to March (Peruvian summer) brings sea lion pups and vibrant wildlife, but also more tourists. July to September can be foggy, but the bird populations peak then, making for dramatic skies and great photos if you bring layers.
What should I bring for the boat trip?
Bring a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen—the sun can be intense and there’s little shade. A windbreaker or light jacket helps with morning chill and sea spray. A telephoto lens (70–200 mm or longer) is excellent for wildlife photography, and if you get seasick, take motion-sickness tablets 45 minutes before boarding.
Will I get seasick on the tour?
The waters are generally calm, especially on early-morning departures, but the boat’s stop-start motion and engine fumes can make some people queasy. If you’re prone to seasickness, sit toward the back where it’s more stable, face the horizon, and bring medication just in case.
What’s the mysterious Paracas Candelabra geoglyph I’ll see on the way?
On your way out to the islands, you’ll pass the Paracas Candelabra, a giant geoglyph carved into a sandy hillside. It’s over 180 meters tall, dates back more than 2,000 years, and can be seen from up to 12 miles away at sea. Its purpose remains a mystery—some think it was a navigational marker, others a symbol tied to San Martín, hallucinogenic plants, or even extraterrestrials!
Are there any sustainable tourism guidelines I should follow?
Yes, and they’re simple: keep your arms inside the boat, avoid loud noises, don’t feed the animals, and never toss trash overboard. Look for tour operators with the Distintivo Azul decal, which certifies they use low-emission engines and respect wildlife distance rules. A little care goes a long way in protecting this fragile ecosystem.
What else can I do near Paracas after visiting the islands?
Plenty! You can explore Paracas National Reserve for desert-meets-ocean scenery, enjoy a ceviche brunch by the dock, head to Huacachina Oasis for dune buggies and sandboarding, or visit vineyards around Ica for pisco tastings. Pairing wildlife in the morning with culture, food, or adventure in the afternoon makes for a perfect weekend getaway.


Visit Santiago del Chile: Unique Things to Do on your Trip to Chile’s Capital!2

It seems like Chile has become the new hotspot for adventure tourism. Just like that, tourists have started pouring into the nation’s capital to experience Chilean culture, its famed carménère wine, and to glimpse a view of the majestic Andes mountain range surrounding the city. I have spent the past two years perusing through Santiago as a gringa looking for the best tourist activities, so, if you are looking to take advantage of your time in Chile’s capital, here are my top recommendations.
What to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Santiago, Chile
Search for street art
If you’re a lover of street art like myself, then you are in luck. Santiago has plenty of beautiful options including strolling the funky Bellavista neighborhood or visiting the Museo a Cielo Abierto, an outdoors exhibit featuring 40 large murals that are painted onto the sides of apartment buildings.
Learn a bit of Chilean history
Many people come to Santiago without knowing much about the history of Chile. If you’d like to learn, or if you’re just a history nerd like I am, I recommend checking out the Plaza de Armas. This square is the original historic city center and various buildings of importance are located within the plaza. Head to the Chilean National History Museum (open Tuesdays-Sundays from 10am-6pm) to explore everything from the Mapuches (Chile’s indigenous people) and conquistadors to the 1973 Chilean coup d’état.

Hike up Cerro San Cristóbal
If you’re set on getting some exercise in Santiago, I recommend trekking up Cerro San Cristóbal. At the cumbre (summit), you will find the famous statue of Mary as well as various viewpoints of Santiago. Don’t feel like hiking all the way to the top? Take the funicular, currently the only mechanical way to reach the summit.
Try a completo italiano
It seems that Chileans were not satisfied with the traditional ketchup and mustard condiments for a hotdog and thus created their own invention: the completo. So why is it called “italiano” (Italian)? Well, this hotdog is topped with three ingredients: tomato (red), mayonnaise (white), and avocado (green), each representing a color of the Italian flag. I know it sounds like a strange combination, but I can tell you from experience that it is delicious.
See where Santiago was founded
Cerro Santa Lucía is another popular tourist destination in Santiago where you can climb to the top of what used to be an active volcano. The top of this hill is also where Pedro de Valdivia founded the city of Santiago. Besides being historical, this hill offers a great spot for pictures!
Taste your first sip of pisco
If there is anything that Chileans are extremely proud of (besides their fútbol team), it is pisco, a spirit that the country produces. If you’re new to pisco, I recommend trying a pisco sour, a cocktail prepared using pisco and lemon juice.
Watch the sunset from the 62nd floor
Sky Costanera just opened this past year and is quickly becoming a hub for tourists. Enter Costanera Center, the tallest building in Latin America, and take the elevator to the very top. There you can find a 360-degree view of the entire city as well the surrounding mountain range. I recommend arriving to Sky Costanera about 30 minutes before sunset so as to be able to see the city during the day, as the sun sets, and to watch the twinkling city lights in the evening.
Learn to speak Spanish like a Chilean
If you’d like to improve or practice your Spanish while in Santiago, there are various language exchanges in the area. Sit back and have a beer at The Shamrock Irish Pub on Wednesdays at 8pm while you learn the best Chilean Spanish expressions from native Santiaguinos. The price to participate is only $1,000CLP, and a raffle is held at the end of the night for one person to win a pitcher of beer on the house.

Try out your salsa skills
For visitors with a flair for Latin beats, dance the night away at Maestra Vida, a salsoteca in Santiago’s Bellavista neighborhood. If you’re interested in learning salsa but haven't tried it before, don’t worry! Maestra Vida offers classes for beginners as well as those with previous experience in salsa.

Take a day trip to a winery
Chilean wines are becoming more and more well known and esteemed on a global scale. If you’re looking to do a bit of sampling while in the city, there is no shortage of vineyards in the area. Moreover, if you’d rather experience a larger, more commercial vineyard, check out Concha y Toro, where tours are offered every day of the week. If you’d prefer a smaller, more family-style vineyard, I personally recommend Undurraga Winery.

Do you have any recommendations for things to do in Santiago?

Santiago Travel Companion: Tips, Packing, Food, Seasons & Hidden Gems

So, you’ve got your list of must-do’s in Santiago. But the adventure doesn’t stop there! After living, exploring, and eating my way across the city for two years, I’ve picked up a few travel hacks.

🎒 What to Pack for Santiago (And Why It Matters)

Packing smart for Santiago means you’re ready everything. That might include market wandering, a hillside hike or an impromptu night of dancing. Here’s my ultimate checklist:

CategoryEssentialsClothingLight layers for spring/summer, a sweater or jacket (it gets chilly at night), sun hat, sunglassesFootwearComfortable walking shoes (for cobblestones and park hikes), sandals for hot afternoonsTech & ExtrasPlug adapter (Chile uses type C & L), portable charger, camera/smartphone, reusable water bottleDay BagBackpack for your daily essentials, snacks, and any souvenirsWeather GearCompact umbrella (Santiago has rainy winters), lightweight rain jacketHealth & SafetySunscreen (the Chilean sun is strong!), hand sanitizer, copies of passport/travel docsMoneyChilean pesos in small denominations, credit/debit card (many places are cash-only, especially markets)

Tip: Always carry a scarf or bandana—it works as sun protection on hikes, an extra layer in the evening, or even as a picnic blanket in Parque Forestal.

🕒 When to Visit: Santiago Through the Seasons

Santiago’s Mediterranean climate means it’s a year-round destination. However, each season offers something unique:

Spring (September–November): Blooming parks, clear skies, and mild temperatures. Ideal for urban exploring, street art tours, and wine tastings.

Summer (December–February): Hot days and balmy nights—perfect for rooftop bars, open-air concerts, and day trips to nearby beaches.

Autumn (March–May): Grape harvest season! Vineyards are buzzing with activity, and the Andes provide a stunning, snow-capped backdrop.

Winter (June–August): Crisp mornings and cool evenings—prime time for skiing in the nearby mountains or cozying up in a bohemian café.

🍽 Santiago’s Food & Drink: Beyond the Completo

Of course, you’ll want to try the legendary completo italiano and sip a classic pisco sour—but don’t stop there! Santiago’s food scene is as diverse as its neighborhoods.

Street Eats & Local Faves

Empanadas de pino: Baked pastries filled with beef, onion, egg, and olives—find them at Mercado Central or street bakeries.

Sopaipillas: Pumpkin-based fried breads often sold by street vendors, especially on rainy days. Top with pebre (a Chilean salsa) for extra flavor.

Pastel de choclo: A comforting corn pie with ground meat, olives, and raisins. It’s a hearty winter dish, but you’ll find it year-round in local “picadas.”

Where to Eat & Drink

Mercado Central: Not just for seafood lovers—find bustling stalls, friendly vendors, and a true taste of Chilean culture.

Barrio Italia: Trendy, artsy, and packed with cafes, craft beer bars, and bakeries. Perfect for a slow afternoon of people-watching.

Bellavista: After sunset, Bellavista transforms into a nightlife hotspot. Look for bars with live music, quirky décor, and plenty of pisco-based cocktails.

🗺 Hidden Gems & Unique Experiences

Go beyond the main attractions with these off-the-beaten-path suggestions:

La Chascona: Once home to poet Pablo Neruda, this quirky house-museum in Bellavista is packed with oddities, maritime memorabilia, and stories from Chile’s literary past.

Parque Bicentenario: Locals’ favorite for picnics, Sunday strolls, and people-watching. Feed the pink flamingos or rent a bike for an afternoon escape from the city buzz.

Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos: This powerful museum documents Chile’s recent history and is essential for understanding the country’s resilience and culture.

Feria Artesanal Santa Lucia: Pick up handmade jewelry, lapis lazuli trinkets, and traditional crafts at this lively market beneath Cerro Santa Lucía.

🧭 Sample Santiago Itinerary: How to See It All in 2 Days

Here’s a suggested two-day itinerary for maximum variety and fun:

Day 1: Culture & City Life

Morning: Walk Plaza de Armas and pop into the National History Museum.

Late Morning: Street art safari in Bellavista (don’t forget your camera).

Lunch: Picnic with empanadas at Parque Forestal.

Afternoon: Climb Cerro San Cristóbal (walk or funicular); reward yourself with mote con huesillo (sweet Chilean summer drink) at the summit.

Evening: Sunset at Sky Costanera followed by dinner and pisco sours in Barrio Lastarria.

Day 2: History & Local Vibes

Morning: Visit La Chascona and stroll the quirky side streets.

Lunch: Savor pastel de choclo in a classic “picada.”

Afternoon: Shop at Feria Santa Lucia; enjoy people-watching in Parque Bicentenario.

Evening: Try a salsa class at Maestra Vida and end the night with live music in Bellavista.

🚗 Easy Day Trips from Santiago

If you have extra time, consider these options:

Valparaíso: A vibrant port city just 1.5 hours away, famous for its hills, colorful murals, and bohemian energy.

Cajón del Maipo: Outdoor paradise for rafting, hiking, and hot springs in the Andes foothills.

Vineyard tours: Beyond Concha y Toro and Undurraga, check out Emiliana for organic wines or the family-run Santa Rita estate.

Tip: Many vineyards require reservations, especially on weekends. Book ahead to secure your spot and get the best tasting experiences!

Unpack Your Bags in a Barrio With Personality

BarrioVibeWhy Base Yourself HereLastarriaBoho-chic, leafy plazas, indie cinemasCentral foot access to the metro + late-night empanada spots that stay open past 2 a.m.Barrio Yungay19th-century mansions, still under-the-radarCheaper guesthouses (~30 USD) and raw, unsanitised street art tours run by residents.ProvidenciaSafe, residential, park-lined bike lanesIdeal if you’re combining remote work with exploration—co-working cafés on every block.

Budget hack: Santiago’s bike-share system Bici Santiago has docking stations in all three barrios and costs just 6 000 CLP for a three-day pass—cheaper than two metro rides per day.

Nature Detours Within 90 Minutes of the Metro

EscapeTime CommitmentHighlightsHow to Get ThereAguas Panimávida Hot Springs½ daySoak in 38 °C mineral pools with snow-dusted peaks overheadTur-Bus to Cajón del Maipo + local van (look for “Termas”)Parque Mahuida Zip-Line & Llama Trail4 hrsAdrenaline canopy tour followed by a guided hike alongside rescued llamasMetro to Metro Los Quillayes, then taxi or Uber (10 min)Yerba Loca Nature SanctuaryFull dayGlacier-fed streams, condor sightings, BYO picnic spotsEarly micro-bus from Metro Los Dominicos (departs 07:30)

Remember that Santiago sits at 520 m above sea level. If you’re tackling Yerba Loca’s 3 600 m trails, hydrate relentlessly and pack layers—the temperature plunge after sunset is real.

Budget Snapshot (Mid-Range Traveler)

Dorm bed Lastarria Hostel: 18 USD

Metro + bus passes (3 days): 7 USD

Museum entries bundle: 10 USD

Average sit-down meal: 12 USD

Day-trip to vineyard (public bus + tour): 35 USD

Sky Costanera ticket: 18 USD

Grand Total 3-day ≈ 230 USD

Santiago de Chile Travel FAQs: Plan Your Trip Like a Pro

What’s the best time of year to visit Santiago for views and vibes?

Spring (Sep–Nov) and fall (Mar–May) win for mild temps, clear Andean views after rain, and easy city wandering. Summer (Dec–Feb) is fun for rooftop nights but can run hot; winter (Jun–Aug) is crisp, less crowded, and perfect for side trips to the snow.

Which neighborhoods should I base myself in for a first visit?

Lastarria and Bellas Artes are central and walkable for museums, cafés and parks; Providencia is safer-residential with great transit; Bellavista is arty by day and lively after dark. If you love street art and classic architecture, add a night in Barrio Yungay for slower, locals-first vibes.

How do I get the best city panorama—San Cristóbal, Santa Lucía or Sky Costanera?

Do all three if you can: Cerro Santa Lucía is a quick historic climb with pretty terraces; Cerro San Cristóbal serves sweeping, classic skyline-and-Andes views (hike or take the funicular). For a 360° glass-top wow, ride Sky Costanera—arrive ~30 minutes before sunset to watch day turn to city lights.

Is Santiago good for street art, and where should I go?

Absolutely. Wander Bellavista’s lanes and hit the Museo a Cielo Abierto (San Miguel) for 40+ tower-sized murals painted across apartment blocks. Go earlier in the day for photos and pair it with a local lunch “picada.”

I want a quick history download—what’s the move?

Start at Plaza de Armas for the Chilean National History Museum, then walk to Cerro Santa Lucía where the city was founded. If you have time for one deeper stop, add the Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos to understand Chile’s recent past.

Where should I try a pisco sour (and what else should I drink)?

You’ll find solid classics across Lastarria and Bellavista; ask for limón de pica if available for a fragrant kick. Wine-wise, order a carménère by the glass with dinner, then plan a day trip to Concha y Toro (big, polished) or Undurraga (smaller, family feel) to taste at the source.

Okay, but what’s the deal with the completo italiano?

It’s a Santiago rite of passage: hot dog topped with tomato, avocado and mayo—colors of the Italian flag. Grab one at a no-frills fuente de soda and eat it over the counter (trust us on the napkins).

I’m keen to practice Spanish—any friendly, low-pressure options?

Yes! The Shamrock Irish Pub hosts a relaxed language exchange on Wednesdays at 8 p.m. for around $1,000 CLP, complete with a beer-pitcher raffle. You’ll pick up Chileanismos fast (po, cachai?).

Where can I dance—or learn—salsa in Santiago?

Head to Maestra Vida in Bellavista for classes early and social dancing late. It’s welcoming to beginners, and the energy ramps up as the live bands hit.

What’s the easiest way to get around without a car?

Load a Bip! card and hop on the clean metro and frequent buses; rideshares fill the gaps late at night. For short hops in flat areas, Santiago’s bike lanes and bike-share make sunny-day cruising a breeze.

Any safety or practical tips I should know?

Santiago feels straightforward: keep phones/wallets zipped in busy areas, use rideshare after late nights, and bring a light layer—temperatures swing between day and evening. Smog can soften mountain views; the day after rainfall is your money shot.

I’ve got one extra day—what’s the best day trip?

Pick your passion: Valparaíso for cliffs, color and bohemian cafes; Cajón del Maipo for hot springs and Andean landscapes; or a vineyard crawl in the Maipo/Colchagua valleys for tastings (book ahead on weekends). All are easy, full-day wins from the city.

💬 Your Turn: Share Your Santiago Stories!

Have you stumbled upon a hidden café, tasted a dish not listed here, or found your own secret viewpoint over Santiago? Drop your tips, questions, or memories in the comments below.


Visit Valparaiso: A Colourful Travel Guide to Chile's Bohemian Port City

If you've been feeling the travel blues, Valparaiso will wash them away!
I have to admit, I've kind of been dragging my feet a little bit these last few weeks. The fast travel pace was starting to wear on me and there were mornings when I was craving a little bit of time in front of my computer as opposed to a day filled with sightseeing in a new locale, but Valparaiso got me out of that slump in no time.

It's kind of hard to want to stay indoors when the city is an explosion of colour splattered across every building. There are cool murals, bright walls, unexpected stencils, cheery window shutters, and fun mosaics to catch your eye at every turn.
Here's a look at some of the pictures I took on that trip, as well as some ideas of things to do in Valparaiso if you ever end up in this bohemian port city!
Our Valparaiso travel guide for independent travelers!

Valparaiso City Guide: Top Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Valparaiso, Chile
Start the day with brunch
If you're like me and you just can't function before you've gotten some food in your system, then I recommend heading over to El Desayunador. They specialize in breakfast and meriendas (kind of like afternoon tea), and they also have some pretty nice cakes on their menu. FYI: In South America it's perfectly acceptable to have cake for breakfast, so feast to your heart's content!
Ride up and down the funiculars
Valparaiso is a city made up of hills. Our guide told us there are a total of 42 hills (though some locals insist there are 45) and that means a whole lot of walking! To make getting around Valparaiso a little easier, the city has a series of ascensores or funiculars that you can ride for a small fee. The best know of these is Ascensor Concepción which dates back to 1883! It is the oldest one in the city and it's a very rickety (albeit safe) ride. Another fun one is Ascensor Reina Victoria, which gives you that iconic Valparaiso postcard shot once you reach the top.
Take a free walking tour of Valparaiso
If you want to see the city, but you don't quite know where to begin, I would recommend joining one of the free walking tours. There are 2 main companies that lead tours across the city and those are Free Tour Valparaiso and Tours 4 Tips. This is a great way to get some insider knowledge, familiarize yourself with the neighbourhoods, and track down some of the best street art in town.

Go in search of street art
This is the thing to do in Valparaiso! I personally think the best hills to visit if you want to see some cool murals are Cerro Concepción, Cerro Alegre, and Cerro Bellavista. The first two are the most frequented by tourists, and the third one is home to Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open Air Museum) which is a circuit featuring various murals.
Take a boat tour of the port
Valparaiso is a port city so you can't say you've visited until you've gone down to the harbour. Tours are 30 minutes long and they depart from Muelle Prat as soon as they get a boatful (usually around 25 passengers). The cost is 3,000 Chilean Pesos and you have a guide to point out the sights and talk about the history of the port. You go past giant container ships, tug boats, and navy vessels, so it's a pretty cool outing.

Befriend all the dogs
As a dog-lover who misses her grumpy old Lhasa-Poo back home, I'm always happy to come across dogs who are up for a little pet and a scratch, and the dogs in Valparaiso were just the friendliest! There are a lot of strays roaming the streets (locals seem to feed them and leave little containers with waters outside businesses and homes), and some of them will latch on to you and join you for a portion of your walk. We had a whole slew of 'regulars' who joined our free walking tour - they clearly knew the guide and that there was a stop at an empanada shop!
Visit Pablo Neruda's quirky home
Pablo Neruda is Chile's most famed poet and writer and he had 3 homes in Chile, one of which is in Valparaiso. Neruda's home, better known as La Sebastiana, sits at the top of Cerro Florida, and let me warn you, it is a steep walk to the top. The home is 5 stories high and it has a pretty eclectic decor (Neruda was an avid art collector). You get individual audio guides inside that give you a glimpse at the writer's life and his home. Admission to La Sebastiana is 6,000 Chilean Pesos per person.

Run up the famed piano steps
When it comes to Valparaiso's street art, one of the best known pieces in the city is that of a staircase painted to resemble piano keys. "Everyone in Valparaiso has a Facebook profile pic on these steps!" our guide told us. These famed steps were painted by a musician who wanted to have a really cool album cover, so he decided to create some art of his own. Now here's the kicker, these steps have been around for a few years and every once in a while they need a fresh coat of paint, so the artist was painting these steps a while ago, when the police caught him with a paintbrush in hand and had him arrested! It turns out that street art in Valparaiso is illegal (kind of hard to believe!) and if you're caught painting a non-commissioned piece without permission, you can face a fine or even jail time.
Sample some of the best gelato in the world
Emporio La Rosa is an ice cream shop located in Anibal Pinto Square. It boasts a bright pink sign that reads, "You are in one of the 25 best ice cream shops in the world," so that might be reason enough to grab yourself a cone with a scoop...or three.

Check out the cool architecture
Valparaiso has a really unique mix of architecture including a mish-mash of British and Eastern European influences. Some of the coolest homes to check out include Palacio Baburizza, a mansion built by a Croatian businessman that now houses the Fine Arts Museum; Casa Crucero, a five-story house built to look like a ship; and Palacio Astoreca, an imposing Victorian home turned boutique hotel.
Take a day trip to Viña del Mar
If I had to describe Viña del Mar to you, I would tell you it's Valparaiso's polar opposite. Valparaiso is colourful, creative, and a little rough around the edges, whereas Viña del Mar is monochromatic, chic, and a bit wealthier. It's a super easy day trip or a nice weekend escape if you have a bit more time. The two cities are only 8 kilometres apart and you can easily get there with the above ground metro system that goes along the beach.

Safety in Valparaiso
Valparaiso has a reputation for being a rough-and-tumble kind of place, but I do think some of the guidebooks and online forums paint a rather extreme picture.
We ended up staying in the plateau which is the commercial and business district of the city, and we did this after reading so many warning that the hills were not safe. In retrospect, I wish I hadn't followed this advice. The plateau was fine but it also lacked the spirit that you see up on the hills. Certain hills may not be considered safe, but places like Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre cater to tourists and they have lots of cute B&B's, cafes, shops and restaurants - and we met so many travellers staying there! They are not the secluded and dangerous neighbourhoods they are made out to be.
Just exercise caution: don't walk down alleys or staircases if you can't see what's at the end, don't wander around unfamiliar areas after dark, and don't dangle a flashy camera around your neck (put it away when you're not using it).

Where to stay in Valparaiso
Here's a selection of properties to fit all budgets on your trip to Valparaiso:
Luxury: Hotel Palacio Astoreca, Hotel Acontraluz, Zerohotel
Midrange: Hotel Da Vinci Valparaiso, Gervasoni Hotel Boutique, Hotel Fauna
Hostels: Hostal Voyage Hostel, Hostal De Visita, Casa Volante Hostal

Beyond the Basics: Your Practical, Playful & Photo-Ready Guide to Valparaíso

A 2–3 Day Itinerary You Can Actually Do

Day 1 – Hills, Funiculars & Harbour Breezes

Morning: Fuel up at a brunch spot (El Desayunador is still a favourite). Wander Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre: peek into tiny galleries, grab a coffee, and let the street art lead the way.

Midday: Ride Ascensor Concepción up and Ascensor Reina Victoria down for those iconic postcard views.

Afternoon: Make your way to Muelle Prat and hop a 30-minute harbour boat to see container ships, tug boats and the navy from water level.

Evening: Sunset pisco sours on a terrace in Cerro Alegre, then dinner at a cosy bistro tucked along a mosaic-lined stairway.

Day 2 – Neruda, Open-Air Art & Night Lights

Morning: Climb (or taxi) to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda’s eccentric, view-blessed home. The audio guide is excellent.

Midday: Head to Cerro Bellavista and follow Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open-Air Museum), a curated circuit of monumental murals.

Afternoon: Gelato break at Emporio La Rosa (because yes), then ride Ascensor Artillería for sweeping views toward the naval academy.

Night: Photograph the piano steps at blue hour, then catch a live set or slow dinner—Valpo’s hills glow after dark.

Day 3 (Optional) – Wine or Waves

Option A: Viña del Mar – 15–20 minutes on the above-ground metro along the coast: city beaches, manicured plazas, casual chiringuito lunches.

Option B: Casablanca Valley – Wine tasting between Valpo and Santiago (crisp sauvignon blancs and cool-climate pinots).

Option C: Isla Negra – A Neruda house by the sea, all ship’s wheels and sea glass—an easy full-day loop.

Where to Stay (By Hill): A Quick Comparison

Hill / AreaVibeBest ForProsConsiderationsCerro ConcepciónPainterly, boutiqueFirst-timersCafés, galleries, funiculars at your doorstepPopular = pricier nightsCerro AlegreBohemian-chicFoodies & photographersTerrace views, creative cuisineLots of stairs (bring comfy shoes!)Cerro BellavistaArt forwardStreet-art loversOpen-Air Museum muralsSteeper climbs, fewer late-night optionsPlaya AnchaLocal, navalLong staysBig vistas toward the portFarther from tourist corePlan (Plateau)Commercial coreTransit accessMarkets, banks, busesLess charm than the hills

Eat & Drink: Bite-Sized Picks by Moment

Morning Things

Cakes for breakfast (it’s a thing): marbled chocolate or tres leches alongside a café cortado.

Pan con palta (avocado toast, Chile-style) + fresh jugos (mango, chirimoya, lucuma).

Daytime Grazing

Empanadas al paso: oven-baked with pino (beef, olive, egg) or shrimp & cheese.

Seafood plates: reineta, congrio or ceviche near the port.

Helado break: the rose-pink sign at Emporio La Rosa lures you in for good reason.

Evenings & Sips

Pisco sour (classic or maracuyá) with a view.

Chorillana (Valpo’s belly-warming mountain of fries, caramelised onions and sliced beef—built for sharing).

Craft beer bars tucked on side streets if grapes aren’t your thing.

Getting There & Getting Around: Transportation Guide

From Santiago to Valparaíso

Bus: Frequent departures (roughly every 15–20 minutes at busy times) from Terminal Alameda or Pajaritos; ride time ~1.5–2 hours. Buses drop at Terminal Rodoviario in Valpo.

Car: Route 68 west; budget for tolls and note weekend beach traffic.

Local Transport

Ascensores (funiculars): Small fares, big charm. If one’s under maintenance, the next is usually close by.

Taxis/ride-hailing: Affordable for uphill hauls—confirm the destination street at the top.

Metro de Valparaíso: Scenic coastal line to Viña del Mar and beyond.

On foot: The best way to string murals, cafés, and viewpoints into one perfect day—just carry water and take it slow.

DIY Street-Art Walk in Valaparaiso

Start: Plaza Aníbal Pinto → climb Calle Cumming.

Detour to the piano steps on Pasaje Beethoven (snap the obligatory shot).

Meander along Calle Templeman & Calle Almirante Montt (Concepción/Alegre).

Coffee stop on a terrace with polisomy views of stairways criss-crossing like ribbons.

Continue to Cerro Bellavista via Calle Ferrari → follow Museo a Cielo Abierto map plaques; each mural has a title & artist.

Exit near Ascensor Espíritu Santo (if running) or loop back through quiet residential lanes.

Photo Spots You’ll Love (And When To Go)

Top of Ascensor Reina Victoria: Early morning for soft light and empty stairs.

Calle Miramar terraces (Cerro Alegre): Golden hour—layers of colour and the sea beyond.

La Sebastiana windows: Reflections + harbour = dreamy frames.

Muelle Prat boats: Late afternoon; backlit gulls and colour-blocked hulls.

Museo a Cielo Abierto walls: Overcast days make colours pop!

Safety & Etiquette: Quick Checklists

Street-Smart Checklist

Keep cameras/phones stowed between shots.

Avoid dead-end stairways you can’t see the end of.

Stick to well-trod routes after dark (Concepción/Alegre streets with cafés).

Split cash/cards in two spots; carry a copy of your passport ID page.

Trust your gut—if a lane feels too quiet, backtrack.

Respectful Valpo Checklist

Ask before photographing people or pets (even friendly street dogs).

Keep music low in residential lanes; voices carry in the amphitheatre of hills.

Street art is largely commission-based—don’t add your own “tag” to someone’s work.

Pack out litter; the wind here is enthusiastic and will send napkins on adventures.

Costs & Budgeting (Ballpark Numbers)

ItemBudget PickMid-Range TreatCoffee & pastry2,000–3,500 CLP4,000–6,000 CLPEmpanada1,500–2,500 CLP3,000–4,000 CLPSeafood lunch (set/plate)6,000–9,000 CLP12,000–18,000 CLPPisco sour3,500–5,500 CLP6,000–8,000 CLPFunicular ride100–400 CLP—Harbour boat tour~3,000 CLP—Double room (per night)35,000–60,000 CLP80,000–160,000 CLP

CLP = Chilean Pesos. Cards widely accepted in restaurants/hotels; keep small cash for funiculars, tips, and corner kiosks.

Day Trips & Easy Add-Ons

Viña del Mar (Beaches & Boulevards)

Getting there: Coastal metro, 15–20 minutes.

Do: Stroll the seafront promenade, pick up beach snacks, people-watch.

Vibe: Neat hedges, pale towers, polished plazas—the city’s “buttoned-up” cousin.

Casablanca Valley (Wine)

Getting there: Join a half-day tour or rent a car/taxi for a tasting hop.

Expect: Crisp whites, cool-climate pinots, rolling vines wrapped in morning mist.

Isla Negra (Neruda #2)

Getting there: Bus or car south along the coast.

Why go: A poet’s seaside cabinet of curiosities—anchors, mermaids, ship bells—plus rugged Pacific views.

What to Pack for Valpo’s Hills (Micro-Packing List)

Feet First

Grippy sneakers (tiles + steepness + morning dew = slippery).

Slip-ons for terraces and the beach in Viña.

Sun & Sea

Sunscreen + hat (the ocean breeze fools you).

Light layer for evenings; the temperature dips with the fog.

Handy Things

Reusable water bottle (refill at cafés).

Offline maps and a spare phone battery.

Tiny umbrella—occasional coastal squalls happen.

12-Questions & Answers: Your Valparaíso Trip FAQ

How many days do I need in Valparaíso?

Two full days let you ride the funiculars, explore Cerro Concepción/Alegre, tour the port, and visit La Sebastiana without rushing. Add a third day for Viña del Mar, Casablanca wine country, or Isla Negra.

Is Valparaíso safe for solo travellers?

Yes, with normal big-city awareness. Stay on busier lanes, avoid isolated stairways at night, keep valuables tucked away, and use taxis/ride-hailing for late-evening uphill returns.

What’s the best time of year to visit?

Late spring to early autumn (October–April) is warm and breezy, with long golden evenings. Summer weekends can be busy; weekdays feel more local. Winter brings moody skies and fewer crowds—great for photography.

Which funiculars should I prioritise?

Ascensor Concepción for history, Reina Victoria for the classic view, and Artillería for huge harbour panoramas. If one’s closed for maintenance, another is usually a short walk away.

Where should I base myself—on the hills or down in the Plan?

If you’re here for street art, cafés, and views, stay on Cerro Concepción or Cerro Alegre. If you want quick access to the bus terminal/markets, the Plan (plateau) is practical but less charming.

Do I really need to visit La Sebastiana?

If you enjoy quirky interiors, sweeping viewpoints, and a peek into Pablo Neruda’s life, absolutely. The audio guide brings the rooms to life, and the setting alone is worth the climb.

Can I see Valparaíso and Viña del Mar in one day?

You can, but it’s a lot. If time is tight: spend the morning on Valpo’s hills, grab the coastal metro to Viña for a seaside lunch and a beach walk, then return for sunset in Cerro Alegre.

Where are the best photo spots for street art?

Follow Calle Templeman, Almirante Montt, and the stairways weaving between Concepción and Alegre. For large-scale pieces, head to Cerro Bellavista’s Museo a Cielo Abierto.

Is street art legal in Valparaíso?

Commissioned and permitted works are embraced; random tagging isn’t. Enjoy the murals like an open-air museum and leave the painting to the artists who’ve been invited to create.

What local dishes should I try?

Seafood galore (reineta, congrio, ceviche), chorillana for a share-plate splurge, oven-baked empanadas, and a classic pisco sour. For dessert, helado or a generous slice of tres leches.

How do I get from Santiago’s airport to Valpo without fuss?

Taxi or shuttle to Pajaritos bus terminal (closer to the airport than downtown), then frequent buses to Valparaíso’s Terminal Rodoviario. From there, taxi or ride-hail up to your hotel’s nearest top-of-hill street.

What should I do if a street dog decides to adopt me for the afternoon?

Enjoy the company, keep snacks in your bag (feeding can cause squabbles), and don’t lead them into traffic. They’re part of the city’s fabric—many are well-known “locals” kindly watched over by businesses and neighbours.

Have you been to Valparaiso?Are there any other things to do in Valparaiso that you'd recommend?


Visit Yangshuo, China: Karst Mountains as Far as the Eye Can See

I'll admit it, China and I got off to a bit of a rough start, but once I reached the Guangxi province and swapped tall buildings for karst mountains and traffic jammed avenues for bamboo rafts on a river, my outlook on China changed. Yangshuo proved to be the highlight of my time in China and here are just a few reasons why I liked this place so much:

It still has a small town feel
Even though Yangshuo is a very popular tourist destination with foreigners and Chinese alike, the old part of the city still maintains a bit of a small town feel. Yes, there may be a McDonald's and plenty of international dining options, but there are also historic buildings with ancient roof tiles, cobbled streets that have been smoothed over by centuries of pedestrians walking over them, quiet temples by the water's edge, and you'll even spot the odd man transporting his goods aboard a bamboo raft. Yangshuo may be booming with tourism, but part of what makes it so appealing is that its small town charm hasn't been entirely lost.

The lively night markets
West Street is the main pedestrian road in Yangshuo and the place really comes to life once the sun goes down. This is the place to sample lots of street food, plus you can also find lots of quirky souvenirs: combs made out of ox bone, stamps with your name carved in Chinese characters, and fake Chinese passports (I was kind of tempted by those!)

Biking through the countryside
On our last day in Yangshuo, Sam and I decided to rent some bicycles and bike out to the countryside. Maneuvering our way out of the city was an adventure in itself - imagine a mixture of scooters carrying live ducks and toddlers riding shotgun - but once we reached the outskirts of town, it was desolate dirt roads for miles on end. Seriously, if you come to Yangshuo, you need to hop on a bike and explore what's out there!

Fun hostels that are budget friendly
I ended up staying at Monkey Jane and what I liked about this place is that it really catered to budget travellers. Say you are a backpacker travelling on a dime, well, this hostel was advertising free room and board in exchange for some of your time. Care to re-paint one of the dorm rooms? Don't mind bartending for a couple of hours at night? Willing to carry crates of beer up to the 5th floor? Monkey Jane was willing to strike up a deal. While I personally didn't take them up on that offer, I can see how this would be appealing to many travellers.

My only advice: don't stay on the 4th floor if you're hoping to get some shut eye. The bar is right above and I could hear everything from Ricky Martin's "Livin' la vida loca" to the Bloodhound Gang classic "let's do it like they do on the Discovery Channel". Amusing? At first, but not at 3 a.m. when the party is no closer to being over.
The rooftop views
Every rooftop in Yangshuo has breathtaking views like this one. Need I say more?

All the international food!
Going out for food in Yangshuo was like country hopping. My first afternoon there I found myself having lunch at a German restaurant. Cheesy Oktoberfest tunes with lots of accordion were playing overhead, while a waitress clad in a dirndl took my order. I was happy to see that the meals on their menu were hearty and authentic, and I was beyond pleased with the Käsespätzle (egg noodles smothered in cheese) I ordered. Das ist gut!

Another favourite of mine turned out to be Cafe Mimosa which specializes in Israeli food. (Yes, Israeli food in China!) The women running this place sure knew what they were doing - thick, fluffy pitas always baked fresh, hummus with a garlic kick, and the best chicken shawarmas I've had in a long time. This was my go to place, and they had a pretty great view to boast.
Morning exercise in the park
The Chinese really value their health and nowhere is this more obvious than at the local park. I got up really early one day to find that several groups were gathered at Yangshuo Park for their morning exercise routine. On one side of the park a group of seniors were doing tai chi, while over on the other end another group was working on a ballroom dance (satin shoes and twirling skirts included). Not to mention the people out roller blading, riding bicycles and jogging. And those who weren't exercising were chatting with friends or playing cards.

The day trips
As beautiful as Yangshuo is, part of the appeal of this region is that you can take plenty of day trips to nearby towns and villages. If you are willing to put in a bit of hard work and climb uphill, then the town of Ping'An which is home to the Longji rice terraces and the Long Hair Red Yao Tribe is worth the visit. On the other hand, if you are looking for something a bit more low key, cruising down the Li River aboard a bamboo raft is a relaxing way to take in the scenery.

The EngRish signs
Another thing I enjoyed about China were the EngRish signs! Have a look at some of these - they really made me chuckle. (The toilet EngRish was my favourite.)

And that was Yangshuo! My week in China flew by, and it was hardly enough time to even begin scratching the surface of such a vast country, but in spite of the little hiccups I may have had a long the way, I look forward to exploring more of this country one day.
Planning Your Yangshuo Adventure: Tips, Costs & Logistics
Getting There Without the Headaches

High‑Speed Rail: The new Yangshuo Station (actually in Xingping, 30 min away) sits on the Guangzhou–Guilin line. Bullet trains from Guangzhou South or Shenzhen North take 2½–3 hours and cost ¥140–¥210 in second class. From the station, hop bus #618 (¥10) or a shared minivan (¥20) to West Street.

Traditional Rail to Guilin: If you’ve already been ogling Guilin’s Reed Flute Cave, simply grab the frequent “express” bus from Guilin South Bus Terminal—¥27, 90 minutes, air‑con included.

Airport Options: Fly into Guilin Liangjiang (KWL), then book the direct shuttle (¥60) or negotiate a taxi (around ¥300; meter + tolls).

Where to Base Yourself

Area
Vibe
Perfect For

West Street (Xi Jie)
Bustling, neon nights, cafés galore
Party‑seekers & foodies

Yulong River Valley
Quiet villages, rice paddies, stone bridges
Couples & sunrise photographers

Xingping Old Town
Cobblestone alleys, ¥20‑note viewpoint, cormorant fishermen
Budget travellers & hikers

Most hostels start at ¥45‑¥60 for a dorm bunk; boutique guesthouses in the Yulong Valley hover around ¥280‑¥400 with river‑view balconies.

Daily Costs at a Glance (2025)

Item
Budget (¥)
Mid‑range (¥)

Dorm bed / Double room
60 / 280
— / 450

Bamboo‑raft (Yulong River)
200 per raft (2 pax)
—

Li River Motor Raft (Xingping loop)
80 per seat
120 (VIP front row)

Bike Rental (full day)
20–30
50 (e‑bike)

Local Street‑Food Dinner
25
60 (Western café)

Cash is still king at small eateries—ATMs line Diecui Road but can run dry on holiday weekends.
Best Time to Visit & What to Pack

March–May: Misty mornings + blooming osmanthus. Bring a light rain jacket and waterproof sneaker covers—potholes double as ponds.

June–August: Hot, humid, possible floods. Pack electrolyte sachets and an umbrella that doubles as a parasol.

September–November: Crisp air, golden paddies—hands‑down favourite. A fleece for cool evenings is all you’ll need.

December–February: Off‑season calm with 10 °C days. Gloves help on sunrise bike rides; guesthouses offer electric blankets.

Quick Itinerary Builder (3 Perfect Days)
Day 1 – West Street & Li River

Morning: Cable‑car up Tv Tower Hill for a bird’s‑eye panorama.

Afternoon: Motor‑raft from Xingping to Nine‑Horse Fresco Hill (¥80).

Evening: Feast on beer‑fish at Sissi’s Restaurant, then wander neon‑lit West Street for sugar‑coated hawthorn skewers.

Day 2 – Yulong Valley & Moon Hill

Cycle to Dragon Bridge at sunrise (hire bikes night before).

Drift back on a bamboo raft—tip the punter ¥20 if he sings folk songs.

Refuel with “fat noodles” (油茶面) at a village shack.

Late‑day climb Moon Hill; the natural arch glows peach at golden hour.

Day 3 – Secret Peaks & Night Show

Hike Xiang Gong Shan (¥60 taxi share, ¥30 entry) for the classic Li‑River‑S‑bend shot.

Afternoon nap or pottery class in Fuli Town.

Evening: Catch Impression · Liu Sanjie light show—600 performers on water choreographed by Zhang Yimou (¥248 standard seat; book online to avoid scalpers).

FAQ: Visit Yangshuo, China — Karst Mountains, River Life & Small-Town Vibes
What makes Yangshuo special?
Yangshuo is all about otherworldly karst peaks, the Li and Yulong Rivers, and a laid-back small-town feel—think bamboo rafts at sunrise, bikes on country lanes, night markets, and rooftop panoramas.
When is the best time to visit?
Sept–Nov brings crisp air, rice-paddy gold, and clear views (fan favorite). Mar–May is lush and misty (pack rain layers). Dec–Feb is quiet and cool. Jun–Aug is hot/humid with occasional floods—plan early/late outings.
How do I get to Yangshuo without the headaches?
High-speed trains stop at Yangshuo Station (Xingping, ~30 min away); shuttle/bus or minivan connects to West Street. Fly into Guilin Liangjiang (KWL) and take the airport bus or taxi. Frequent buses link Guilin ⇄ Yangshuo.
Where should I base myself?

West Street (Xi Jie): lively cafés/night markets—walk everywhere.

Yulong River Valley: quiet villages, stone bridges, sunrise fields.

Xingping Old Town: cobbles, ¥20-note viewpoint, river hikes.

What are unmissable things to do?
Cycle the Yulong Valley, bamboo-raft a river stretch, hike Xiang Gong Shan or Moon Hill, wander West Street night market, catch Impression · Liu Sanjie (water show), and snag a rooftop sunset.
Bamboo raft or motor raft—what’s the difference?
Bamboo raft (Yulong): slow, peaceful, ultra-photogenic (best in early/late light).Motor raft (Xingping/Li River): covers more scenery quickly, a bit noisier, great for the Nine-Horse Fresco Hill section.
Is Yangshuo good for cycling—and is it safe?
Yes. Once you clear town, it’s flat backroads through farms and hamlets. Rent a bike or e-bike, ride single file, use a phone mount + offline maps, and watch for scooters/tractors near villages.
What should I eat in Yangshuo?
Try beer fish (local classic), Guilin rice noodles, stuffed snails, river-shrimp dishes, and seasonal greens. International cravings? West Street has Israeli mezze, German Käsespätzle, and more.
Are there good budget stays and hostels?
Plenty. Rooftop-bar hostels and social dorms cluster near West Street; boutique guesthouses with balconies line the Yulong Valley. Light sleepers: request lower floors/quiet wings away from bars.
What does a realistic daily budget look like?
Budget travelers: ¥200–350/day (dorm, simple meals, bike). Mid-range: ¥450–700/day (guesthouse, café meals, rafting/show). ATMs exist, but carry some cash for villages and snacks.
What easy day trips can I add?
Xingping (old town + river bend views), Fuli (paper-fan workshops), Silver Cave (stalactites), or go bigger to Longji/Ping’an for rice terraces and Red Yao culture (longer day, very worth it).
Any practical etiquette or photography tips?
Ask before photographing people, no drone in restricted zones, pack rain cover for sudden showers, and for rooftop shots, arrive early and mind ladders/railings. On rafts, stow gear and keep it water-safe.
Have you been to China? What was your favourite place?


Visiting a Korean Jjimjilbang in Seoul (Minus the Getting Naked Part!)

If there's one quintessential experience every traveller needs to have in Seoul, it's visiting a jjimjilbang...or so I am told.
This is something that I had somehow managed to avoid the whole time I lived in Korea and I was totally fine with that, but since Sam is a big fan of jjimjilbangs and we happened to be staying right down the street from Siloam Jjimjilbang, it was only a matter of time before I ended up there.
But before we go any further I should answer the question:
What is a jjimjilbang?
A jjimjilbang is a Korean public bathhouse filled with showers, hot tubs, and saunas, but it is much more than that.
It is also a communal space where you can watch Korean dramas on TV, work out in the exercise rooms, cool down in the ice rooms, sweat it out in the kiln saunas, play computer games, spend coins at the arcades, sing your heart out at a noraebang, catch up on sleep in one of the napping caves, relax in a massage chair, and so much more.
Yes, you can come and have a bath here, or you could skip that awkward part altogether and spend the day wearing a Princess Leia towel bun on  your head, but more on that later.

How does going to a jjimjilbang work?
Once you walk in through the main doors you will find a desk where you pay for admission.
There are 4 different rates depending on whether you are going there during the day (5:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.) or at night (8:00 p.m. - 5:00 a.m.), and whether you are entering the bathhouse or also wanting to access the other floors of the jjimjilbang.
If you want the full experience, you'll want to pay for both the bathhouse and the jjimjilbang, and you can save a few dollars by visiting during daytime hours.
Once you've paid, you will be given a set of clothes to change into.
At the Siloam Jjimjilbang women are given orange t-shirts with red shorts, and the men are giving beige t-shirts with brown shorts.
You will then bring these clothes with you into the change room. The change rooms are segregated; the women's change room is to the right and it has a red sign, and the men's change room is to the left and it has a blue sign.
Once you set foot inside the change room, the first thing you will do is remove your shoes.
Once your shoes are off, you will step up onto the floors, walk over to the shoe lockers, store your shoes, and hand the locker key in at the desk.
The person behind the desk will in turn give you two small towels, as well as another key which gives you access to a bigger locker where you can store the rest of your belongings.
If you're heading down to the bathhouse and sauna, this is the part where you strip bare and walk your naked self down into the basement where things are also kept segregated.
The towels are the size of small hand towels, so there's little use in trying to cover yourself up.
And if you're a bit shy and not quite ready to experience the naked bathhouse, this is the part where you put on the clothes they gave you, and follow the steps up to the 'fomentation area' where you can start exploring the jjimjilbang.

Inside a Korean jjimjilbang
What better way to show you than video?! If you're interested in getting the full tour then you can watch the vlog we filmed on our visit, and if not keep reading for a quick layout of the place floor by floor.

Basement
The basement level is where all the soaking, scrubbing, and washing happens.
Here you'll find all the pools, steam rooms, mud tubs, hot tubs, and showers. You must shower before you even think of setting foot anywhere else - cardinal rule!
You can also pay an additional 15,000 won to have your whole body scrubbed down by a professional.
My husband was brave enough to try this and he tells me they take a lot of skin off. It sounds like a pretty painful experience to me, but you'll no doubt leave squeaky clean!
Level 1
This is the main floor and it's where you enter the jjimjilbang.
This is also where the change rooms are located, and as you make your way out the change rooms, you'll find a hairdresser and a threading lady.
Level 2
The second floor has a restaurant with a pretty complete menu. This was our very first stop inside the jjimjilbang and I can confirm that they make some great Korean food in there.
We had dolsot bibimbap (돌솥 비빔밥), which is a mixed vegetable rice cooked in a stone pot, as well as sundubu jiggae (순두부찌개), which is a spicy tofu soup served with rice.
This also came with miyeokguk (미역국), which is a seaweed soup, and an assortment of side dishes known as banchan (반찬).

If you want to have some typical jjimjilbang fare, order the baked eggs (맥반석 계란) which are slow cooked in the hottest sauna, as well as a glass of sikhye (식혜), a sweet rice beverage.
Aside from the restaurant, in this floor you'll also find a massage centre, a nail salon where you can get a gel manicure, there's an area where you can tuck your feet into hot jade pebbles, and there's also a quiet communal space where you can have a nap or enjoy some quiet reading.
Level 3
The third floor is all about entertainment and I would say it's the most active of all the floors.
Here you have a main area where they play Korean dramas on TV and people just lounge around on hard mats on the floor.
They have a table tennis room, a reading room, a PC bang (computer game room), a workout room, a group room in case you're having a special event with friends, and a movie room where they screen films twice a day.
They also have massage chairs, where you can pop in a few coins and get a full body massage.
Level 4
The fourth floor has different rooms that vary in terms of lighting, minerals, and therapeutic effects.
There are rooms where the ceiling is covered in jade or salt, rooms that feel like ovens and others that feel like igloos, rooms with heated floors and rooms where you lay down on salt crystals, and the list goes on and on!
I also found it interesting that all of these rooms kind of looked like little caves and some of the doors are so small you literally have to hunch over to walk in.
My favourite out of all of these was the charcoal room where the temperature was kept at 22 degrees Celsius.
I couldn't tell you what sort of effect this charcoal room is meant to have on the body, but I enjoyed the cool temperature and the fact that it was a dark room where you could catch some sleep.
Aside from all this, the fourth floor also has a cafe where you can order light snacks like sandwiches, smoothies, and patbingsu.
Level 5
This fifth floor is known as the sleeping floor, and while you can technically nap on mats in any of the floors, this space is very quiet and dedicated to sleep.
Here you'll find a communal sleeping area where families are napping on mats with pillows and blankets. There's another sleeping area that's strictly divided into men and women only, and you'll also find bunkbeds and rows of cubby holes that you can crawl into for some quiet and restful sleep (these are a great idea if you're trying to get away from the snorers!)

What to expect inside the jjimjilbang?
Visiting a jjimjilbang is all about relaxing and you'll find that a lot of Korean families go to spend the day there as a fun weekend activity.
Once I was inside, it kind of reminded me of being inside a hotel or a spa for the weekend, with lots of different areas and activities to keep you entertained without having to leave the premises.
One of the funnest parts for me was wearing the Princess Leia towel on my head and forcing Sam to do the same.
To achieve this look you have to fold your towel lengthwise into thirds, and then take each end and roll it outwards twice like you would a sleeve.
You'll then be left with a funny looking towel hat that people wear whether they're eating lunch or hanging out in one of the hot rooms.

Getting to Siloam Jjimjilbang
Siloam is one of the best jjimjilbangs in Seoul, so it's worth seeking out even if you're staying in a different part of the city.
To get there take Line 1 or 4 to Seoul Station and then take exit 1, go past the overpass and walk across the street at the intersection. Siloam will then be on your right-hand side.
Alternatively, you can take Line 2 or 5 to Chungjeongno Station and take exit 5. From there you'll have to walk down the hill and you'll eventually spot Siloam on the left hand side. It looks like a 5-story hotel, so it's hard to miss!
Keep in mind that most Seoul neighbourhoods have at least one jjimjilbang, so if this one is too far from where you're staying, you should still be able to visit another near you.
Address: 49 Jungnim-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul

Maximizing Your Jjimjilbang Visit: Practical Tips & The Ultimate Relaxation Guide

So you’ve conquered your jitters. You've braved the changing room. And you've settled into your signature towel bun. By now, you’re probably realizing a Korean jjimjilbang is not just a bathhouse. It's an entire cultural experience—and honestly, a great way to reset your travel batteries in Seoul. Here’s how to make the most of your time.

🛁 Why Jjimjilbangs Are a Korean Must-Do

Jjimjilbangs aren’t just for getting clean—they’re about community, rest, and healing. For many Koreans, it’s a weekend tradition.

Jjimjilbangs are also:

A budget-friendly place to sleep for travelers or locals out late (much cheaper than hotels!)

An oasis in winter or on rainy days—nothing beats thawing out in a hot jade sauna

The spot to sample classic Korean comfort foods (more on this below!)

👘 What to Pack for Your Jjimjilbang Visit

While most things are provided, a little planning can make your visit even more enjoyable. Here’s a handy checklist:

Bring With YouWhy You’ll Need ItHair brush/combFor after your soakBasic toiletriesToothbrush, face wash, moisturizerFresh underwearFor changing into afterwardsLight book/e-readerMany jjimjilbangs have quiet nooksPhone & chargerMost have charging stations/cubbiesReusable water bottleStay hydrated in hot roomsFace mask/sheet maskFor a mini DIY spa sessionEarplugsFor a good nap in the communal room

Tip: Lock up valuables! While jjimjilbangs are generally very safe, don’t tempt fate—store cash, passport, and electronics in your locker.

🧖 Jjimjilbang Etiquette: Do’s and Don’ts

Shower before entering pools or saunas. (Non-negotiable!)

Be body positive. No one is judging in the nude zones—everyone’s focused on their own relaxation.

No cameras/phones in locker rooms or bathing areas. Respect privacy.

Keep your voice down—quiet chatting is fine, but no phone calls or loud laughter.

Stay modest: Towels are tiny but use them for sitting on hot stones or wiping sweat.

No shoes allowed past the entry or in any sauna/bath area—use provided slippers if needed.

Stay as long as you like: Your entry ticket is valid for 12–24 hours (check each location), so no rush.

🍳 Must-Try Jjimjilbang Foods & Drinks

No jjimjilbang experience is complete without a snack break. Here’s what to order:

Baked eggs (맥반석 계란): Hard-cooked in the sauna, deliciously smoky and soft

Sikhye (식혜): Sweet, chilled rice punch—perfect for rehydration

Miyeokguk (미역국): Nourishing seaweed soup

Patbingsu (팥빙수): Shaved ice with red bean, fruit, and condensed milk—ideal in summer

Ramyun (라면): The iconic Korean instant noodle; spicy, salty, deeply comforting

Fun tip: Order from the jjimjilbang restaurant, or grab quick bites at snack counters dotted around each floor.

🌈 Your Perfect “Jjimjilbang Day”: A Step-by-Step Guide

Want to savor every aspect? Try this itinerary:

Arrive early: Beat the crowds (especially on weekends and holidays) and claim a cozy spot.

Cleanse: Strip down, stow your gear, and shower well. Try a hot soak, then dip into a cold pool for a full-body wakeup.

Upgrade your glow: Book a scrub (“seshin”)—yes, it’s intense, but your skin will never feel softer!

Snack & hydrate: Sip some sikhye and snack on baked eggs.

Explore the sauna circuit: Try each themed room—salt, jade, ice, charcoal, and more. Alternate hot and cool rooms for max refreshment.

Naptime: Curl up in the sleeping room or find a quiet nook on the heated floors.

Catch a drama or movie: Head to the entertainment floor for K-dramas, ping-pong, or just people-watching.

Dine & relax: Order a full Korean meal, then finish with another soak or a massage chair session.

Towel bun selfie: It’s a rite of passage! Ask a staff member or fellow guest for help if you’re struggling with the rolling technique.

Unwind completely: Leave feeling lighter, cleaner, and more in tune with Korean culture.

🏩 Sleeping in a Jjimjilbang: What to Expect

For budget travelers, jjimjilbangs are a hidden gem. Pay your entrance, get a set of pajamas and a locker, then pick a mat or cubby to crash for the night. It’s not hotel-luxury, but it’s clean, safe, and a slice of Korean life—think of it as a plush sleepover with a hundred strangers, but less weird than it sounds!

Best for: Early-morning train travelers, late arrivals, or those on a tight budget

Bring: Earplugs, eye mask, and a light blanket if you’re sensitive to cold

🗺 Seoul’s Best Jjimjilbangs: Beyond Siloam

While Siloam is a top pick (clean, central, with every amenity), you might also try:

JjimjilbangNeighborhoodKnown ForDragon Hill SpaYongsanHuge, family-friendly, fun themesSpa Lei (women only)Sinsa-dong, GangnamUpscale, trendy, more privacyThe Spa in Garden FiveSongpa-guModern, huge saunas, river views

Most neighborhoods have a local jjimjilbang—so if Siloam’s too far, just ask your hotel or check Naver/Google Maps.

🇰🇷 Fun Jjimjilbang Facts

Jjimjilbangs are open 24/7! (Perfect for jet lag, night owls, or layovers.)

You might spot celebrities: K-pop stars and actors have been known to unwind here, sans entourage.

Health focus: Many saunas are believed to have unique health benefits (from “detoxifying” jade to boosting circulation in salt rooms).

Cultural cross-section: You’ll see teens, couples, kids, elders, and solo travelers—all enjoying the same space.

Korean Jjimjilbang in Seoul: First-Timer FAQ (Siloam Tips, Etiquette & Costs)

What is a jjimjilbang?

A jjimjilbang is a Korean bathhouse and wellness complex with segregated nude bathing areas (showers, hot and cold pools, steam rooms) and co-ed “fomentation” floors featuring themed saunas, lounges, nap zones, snack bars, and entertainment rooms. Think spa + community center, open late (often 24/7).

Do I have to get naked, or can I skip the bathhouse?

You can absolutely skip the nude bath area. After changing into the provided jjimjilbang clothes, head to the co-ed floors for saunas, lounges, food, and naps. If you do use the baths, remember it’s single-sex and everyone showers first—nudity is normal and unsexualized.

How does check-in work at places like Siloam?

Pay at the front desk (day/night pricing). You’ll receive indoor clothes and a key. Shoes go in small lockers; exchange the shoe key for a larger locker key inside the gendered changing area. Store belongings, either strip for the baths (basement) or put on the issued clothes for the co-ed floors.

What facilities should I expect on each floor?

Basement: showers, hot/cold pools, steam rooms, optional body scrub.Main/Level 1: entry, changing rooms, salon services.Level 2: restaurant, massage/nails, quiet lounge.Level 3: TV lounge, ping-pong, PC room, gym, massage chairs, movie room.Level 4: themed saunas (salt, jade, ice, charcoal), cafe.Level 5: sleeping areas (mixed and gender-separate).

How much does it cost and what are common add-ons?

Entry typically runs ₩8,000–₩15,000 (roughly $6–$12 USD) depending on time of day and access. Extras include full-body scrub (~₩15,000), massage chair, salon services, and food/drinks (baked eggs, sikhye, patbingsu, ramyun).

How long can I stay?

Most jjimjilbangs allow 12–24 hours per entry window. Many visitors spend half a day; others use them for an affordable overnight when catching early trains or flights. Always confirm posted limits at the desk.

What should I bring?

Pack light: small toiletries, face moisturizer, hairbrush/comb, fresh underwear, reusable water bottle, earplugs/eye mask if napping, and a book/e-reader. Lock valuables. Towels, pajamas, and basic amenities are provided.

What are the key etiquette rules?

Shower before pools/saunas; no phones/cameras in nude areas; speak softly; sit on a towel in hot rooms; no shoes past entry; follow staff instructions; and don’t clap or cause disturbances—jjimjilbangs are for relaxation and community.

Can families and first-timers go?

Yes. Jjimjilbangs are family-friendly, and first-timers are common. Kids typically enjoy the co-ed floors and snacks; keep voices low and supervise around hot areas. If you’re shy, stick to the clothed levels and ease in.

Are tattoos allowed?

Most large, modern jjimjilbangs in Seoul are accustomed to international visitors and generally accept tattoos, especially on the co-ed floors. Smaller or traditional venues may have restrictions—call ahead if you’re unsure.

Can I sleep overnight in a jjimjilbang?

Yes. Grab a mat, cubby, or bunk on the sleeping floor. It’s clean, safe, and budget-friendly (bring earplugs and a light layer). Expect simple comfort, not hotel amenities.

How do I get to Siloam Jjimjilbang?

From Seoul Station (Line 1 or 4) take Exit 1, pass the overpass, and cross at the intersection—Siloam will be on your right. From Chungjeongno (Line 2 or 5) Exit 5, walk downhill—Siloam is on the left. Address: 49 Jungnim-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul.

💬 Your Turn: Share Your Jjimjilbang Story!

Have you ever visited a jjimjilbang or a bathhouse abroad? Got tips for first-timers, favorite snacks, or funny towel bun fails? Share your stories in the comments below—let’s keep the community cozy, informed, and always a little bit steamy!

Here’s to towel buns, new adventures, and saying “yes” to the unexpected. Happy soaking!

Have you ever been to a Korean jjimjilbang?Is this a must visit Seoul attraction?Or have you been to sauna / bath house in a culture different from your own?