Things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia: Visiting Argentina's Oil Capital!

Are there any things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia and is it even worth visiting?

When we first told Argentines we were travelling to the oil town of Comodoro Rivadavia in Patagonia, we got some wide eyes and plenty of whys.

“There’s nothing to see there.”

“Why would you want to go to an oil town?”

“It’s just sand and wind down there!”

These were some of the things we heard about Comodoro Rivadavia. Yet admittedly, most of the people telling us these things had never been there!

That piqued our curiosity and so, we took it upon ourselves to add Comodoro Rivadavia to our coastal Patagonia travel plans and see what the city had to offer.

After all, this is the biggest city in the Province of Chubut!

History of oil in Comodoro Rivadavia

The story of how oil was discovered in Comodoro Rivadavia is a little murky. Popular narrative says a team was drilling for water and they got lucky and struck oil instead, but that isn’t quite how things unfolded.

But first, let’s set the scene. Comodoro Rivadavia was founded by decree in 1901 as a port for the inland settlement of Sarmiento.

The early settlers were Boers and Welsh immigrants who worked in agriculture. One of the challenges they faced was a shortage of water, which required them to haul water by oxen. It was supposedly at the insistence of these settlers that drilling for water began and that's how they found oil.

Except this does not line up with any of the events that unfolded.

In 1903, the National Mining, Geology and Hydrology Department sent down a rig to supposedly drill a water well. The problem with this story is that you don’t drill for water at the depths this team was drilling.

The first perforation went down 172 metres and no water was found. Now just to give you some context, water in this area can be found at a depth of 50-100 metres!

They kind of overshot the mark a bit, don't you think?

Then in 1906, a team of German engineers was assembled and a new rig was sent down for a second attempt at drilling for ‘water’. Two of the key figures on site were Humberto Beghin in charge of operations and José Fuchs in charge of drilling. This was organized by Julio Krause, Head of Drilling of Argentina’s Mining Department whose involvement already raises some questions.

Plus, do you really bring a whole team over from Germany just to drill for water?

This second perforation reached a depth of 500 metres and still no ‘water’.

But then, a change in fortune. On December 12, 1907 an oily substance started bubbling out - it smelled of kerosene.

The following day on December 13, the drilling team reached a depth of 540 metres and declared the discovery of oil. A telegram was immediately sent to the President alerting him of the news and the rest is history.

That’s how Argentina’s oil capital of Comodoro Rivadavia was born!

Things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia

So what are some things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia?

Admittedly, many of the attractions in town revolve around petroleum - this is an oil town after all!

However, this seaside destination also offers excellent seafood, cool lookout points, and easy day trips to a beach town and a sea lion colony.

So in this blog post, we'll be giving you a few ideas of what you can do during your visit.

Visit the National Petroleum Museum

The most important place to visit in Comodoro Rivadavia is the National Petroleum Museum, locally known as Museo Nacional del Petróleo.

This is the place to learn about the first discovery of oil and the role it played in making Comodoro Rivadavia what it is today.

The museum is located in the General Mosconi neighbourhood about 3 kilometres north of the city centre. It is built in the very spot where the teams first struck oil.

The nice thing about this museum is that there is a guide on site to share the history of oil in Comodoro Rivadavia and answer any questions you may have.

You are also free to explore the museum at your own pace and there’s quite a bit to see between the outdoor and indoor components.

Outside you can visit the second perforation where they struck oil and you can also view all of the machinery that was used to drill to such great depths.

Then indoors, you can go into this simulator that shows you what it would be like if you could shrink down and travel to the bottom of an oil well. I’m sure it’s an experience meant for children, but it was actually a lot of fun!

They also have interesting displays that show you what petroleum can look like (all sorts of surprising colours!), photos of the National Oil Queen pageant, and exhibits on the uses of oil through time dating from the Middle Ages to Ancient Egypt.

Enjoy the views from Cerro Chenque

Another thing to do in Comodoro Rivadavia is to enjoy the views from Cerro Chenque.

It’s impossible to miss this hill as it dominates the cityscape. It rises 212 metres above sea level and offers great panoramic views of the city and the coastline facing south.

The name ‘chenque’ means cemetery or grave in the native Pehuenche language, since this was used as a burial ground.

While it is possible to walk up Cerro Chenque, it is a busy road shared with heavy traffic and you have to walk along a gravel path on the side.

If it’s just the views you’re after, you can hire a taxi to drive you to the top and wait for you while you snap some photos before driving back down.

If you prefer to walk from the city centre, the easiest way to do so is by taking Ruta del Centenario on the west end of the hill and then coming back down the same way once you’ve reached the viewpoint.

Visit the other museums

Aside from the National Petroleum Museum, which is the main attraction in town, there are a few smaller museums scattered across Comodoro Rivadavia. But again, I emphasize these are very small and have very limited hours of operation. So you'll want to check each museum's schedule online before you attempt to visit:

Railway Port Museum

Patagonian Regional Museum

Museum of Mining and Geology

Military Historical Museum

Museum of Paleontology Astra

We tried visiting three different ones on this list, but only one of them was open!

Walk along the Costanera

Comodoro Rivadavia is a seaside city and that means you can enjoy some beautiful coastal walks along the Costanera.

We did the walk along Playa Costanera, starting at Plaza Soberanía and heading north along the coast. You go through a bit of an industrial shipping area where you can see some old abandoned boats covered in graffiti, and you eventually reach the beach.

The coastal walk then continues along these towering cliffs. If you do this walk on a sunny day when the light turns the waters turquoise, you almost feel like you’ve been transported over to the Caribbean!

Take a day trip to Rada Tilly

Another thing to do during your visit to Comodoro Rivadavia, is to take a day trip to Rada Tilly.

Rada Tilly is a beach town located just 13 kilometres from Comodoro Rivadavia and it’s considered a weekend getaway and summer destination for those with oil money.

The waterfront is lined with elegant homes and mansions - some that look like they were inspired by Santorini! - and the beach is right on their doorstep.

During low tide, the beach is incredibly wide and you can walk all the way down to the cliffs on the south end of the beach looking for shells.

The beach is also a popular destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and even landsailing - a sport where three-wheeled carts with a sail attached to them move with the force of the wind.

Rada Tilly feels a bit more upscale than neighbouring Comodoro Rivadavia, but it still maintains a casual beach town feel, so if you want to see something a little different this day trip is worth it.

See sea lions at Punta Marqués

Another popular day trip from Comodoro Rivadavia is to Punta Marqués to see sea lions.

If Península Valdés in northeastern Chubut isn't on your itinerary this time around, then you can get your dose of wildlife viewing here.

Punta Marqués is a 19-kilometre drive from Comodoro Rivadavia or a 6-kilometre drive from Rada Tilly.

You can easily get there by car if you're planning on renting one, or otherwise, you can reach the point by taxi. Here's a map of how to get there.

This natural reserve is an opportunity for visitors to see the sea lions that live on the cliffs year-round, though you'll find the highest concentration of them from October to December.

Where to eat in Comodoro Rivadavia

Cayo Coco del Mar

Our favourite restaurant which we visited multiple times over the course of our trip was Cayo Coco del Mar.

This seaside restaurant is located on Playa Costanera and it looks out over the ocean. Of course, we had to try the seafood!

We really enjoyed their seafood platter featuring calamari, shrimp casserole, breaded fish, mussels and more. It was a mix of hot and cold dishes and a nice option if you want to try a bit of everything on the menu.

We then went back to try their paella and seafood stew, so we sampled a good part of their menu!

Puerto Mitre

This pizza restaurant came highly recommended and it did not disappoint.

They have an interesting list of Patagonian pizzas featuring regional ingredients. Especial del Mar has shrimp, Del Lago has smoked trout, Brama has smoked deer and so on.

We opted for their shrimp pizza and let me tell you, these were plump shrimp!

We paired the meal with a bottle of wine and were very happy with our selection.

Cayo Coco

I can only imagine this restaurant must be affiliated to the seaside restaurant Cayo Coco del Mar?

While the former focused on seafood, this one was all about classic Argentine favourites. That means pizza, pasta and parrilla (BBQ)!

Because this place was so close to our hotel we ended up eating here a couple of times.

We opted for pizza (surprise, surprise!) and also tried their shrimp salad with avocado and palm hearts. And we were also very into the flambéed pancakes!

Chocolates

You might think this is a chocolate shop based on its name, but it's also an ice cream parlour and cafe serving up cakes and specialty coffees.

The place also has an arcade and a random carousel, so it's popular with families with young children.

We opted for some artesanal ice cream and tried their coconut with dulce de leche, which was amazing!

When in Argentina you always order at least one scoop of dulce de leche - a creamy, caramel spread made by slowly heating sugar and milk over several hours.

Where to stay in Comodoro Rivadavia

Because this is an oil town that sees a lot of people travelling for business, Comodoro Rivadavia has a nice selection of business hotels with buffet breakfast and fast internet. Here are a few options to consider:

Comodoro Hotel - 3-star hotel, centrally located with a lobby bar and buffet breakfast. This is where we stayed!

Lucania Palazzo Hotel - 4-star hotel featuring bright and spacious rooms, a piano bar, gym and sauna.

Austral Hotel - 4-star hotel with an in-house restaurant specializing in seafood dishes and regional cuisine.

How to get to Comodoro Rivadavia

By air

The easiest way to reach Comodoro Rivadavia is by air. There are multiple direct flights from Buenos Aires every day, as well as select flights arriving from Ushuaia, Trelew, Neuquén and Córdoba.

From Buenos Aires, you're looking at a travel time of 2 hours and 25 minutes.

By bus

Comodoro Rivadavia is well connected by bus and the journeys aren't that long if you consider some of the epic overnight bus journeys to cross Patagonia.

If you're coming from Puerto Madryn in the north it's 5 hours and 30 minutes, from Esquel in the west it's 9 hours, and from Rio Gallegos in the south it's 10 hours and 20 minutes.

Maybe consider upgrading your bus seat so you can travel in comfort. You can choose from Semicama (half-bed), Cama-Ejecutivo (executive bed) and Cama Suite (bed suite).

Final thoughts on Comodoro Rivadavia

That concludes our visit to Comodoro Rivadavia.

Are we glad we visited?

Yes!

Is it everyone's cup of tea?

No.

Like with many frontier cities, Comodoro Rivadavia can have a bit of a rough feel, but the people were warm, the attractions were interesting, and the seafood was amazing! So we had a good time.

As I've mentioned before, we enjoy travelling to off the beaten path destinations and visiting places that aren't necessarily on everyone's travel radar, so if that matches your travel style, then consider visiting Comodoro Rivadavia.

If you're doing an epic overland journey across the length of Patagonia, this destination is also a nice way to break up the trip.


Things to do in El Bolson: Patagonia's Hippie Mountain Town

Today we're sharing some of the best things to do in El Bolson, a hippie mountain town located in Northern Patagonia, Argentina.

El Bolson lies in a valley surrounded by jagged mountain ranges on either side, the local architecture features lots of log cabin-style buildings, and the town itself has a very easy-going and laid-back feel.

The main draw to El Bolson is its pristine nature, of course! There are hiking trails that meander up the rocky mountains, swimming holes with turquoise waters, and cascading waterfalls tucked away in the woodland. It's every outdoor lover's paradise!

This town is one of the most beautiful places in Patagonia and in this El Bolson travel guide, we're going to be sharing some of the highlights!

How to get to El Bolson

So, where is El Bolson?

El Bolson is located in the Province of Río Negro in Northern Patagonia.

The nearest airport is in the city of San Carlos de Bariloche, which is 2 hours or 138 kilometres north of El Bolson.

If you're planning a Northern Patagonia road trip, then renting a car is the best way to get to El Bolson and thoroughly explore the area.

Alternatively, there are buses that connect Bariloche with El Bolson, or Esquel with El Bolson if you're arriving from the south.

Via Bariloche has multiple departures per day and offers a good service.

Is El Bolson worth visiting?

Absolutely! El Bolson is one of our favourite mountain towns in Patagonia and we think it's worth a spot on your Patagonia itinerary.

If you want to experience Patagonia off-the-beaten-path, enjoy spending time in nature, being surrounded by mountains, visiting craft breweries, and indulging your sweet tooth in artisanal ice creams and chocolates, then you're going to enjoy what El Bolson has to offer.

How long should you stay in El Bolson?

Ideally, you'd want to spend at least 3 days in El Bolson in order to cover the main attractions and enjoy some of the local day hikes.

With 5-7 days you could add on some of the day trips which include a national park, neighbouring lakeside towns, and even a ride aboard a very famous train.

That being said, if you are pressed for time, there is a day tour to El Bolson from Bariloche, which also includes a visit to Lago Puelo National Park. That's something to consider if you're visiting Bariloche for a few days.

You'll only be able to cover a handful of attractions in the town with one day, but it'll give you a taste of El Bolson.

Things to do in El Bolson

There are lots of things to do in El Bolson and as you'd expect from a mountain town, most of these activities are outdoors.

That means epic mountain views all around!

Bosque Tallado

One of the more unique attractions to visit in El Bolsón is the Carved Forest, also known as Bosque Tallado.

This sculpture forest is located on Cerro Piltriquitrón at 1,420 meters above sea level, and it came to be after a series of fires burnt down part of the mountainside.

Marcelo López, a local artist, came up with the idea of inviting fellow artists to come and use the burnt and fallen lenga trees as their canvas.

These sculpture-carving gatherings were organized in 1998, 1999, 2003, 2007, 2010, and 2014 adding new sculptures to the forest every few years.

Aside from the artwork, the Sculpture Forest is a beautiful day hike that offers impressive views of the town of El Bolsón and the surrounding mountains!

Feria Artesanal

El Bolsón is well known for its Feria Artesanal or artisanal hippie fair that sets up in Plaza Pagano every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

There are around 200 stalls selling ceramics, leather, tapestries, candles, honey, jams and even natural cosmetics.

Plus, we can’t forget all the food trucks where you can sample empanadas, choripán, crêpes, hamburgers and more.

Monte Viejo Artesanías

This shop sells beautiful Argentine handicrafts, and it's the ideal place to pick up some classic Argentinian souvenirs.

They have jewellery made by local artists, including the owner of the store himself.

You can also find mates and bombillas, gaucho hats, knit vests, ceramics, ponchos and wool sweaters.

The staff are also incredibly sweet and friendly, so it's a nice place to shop.

Hiking in El Bolsón

El Bolsón is a great hiking destination and there are numerous trails to choose from all ranging in length and level of difficulty. A few to consider include:

Cerro Amigo - This is an easy hike that leads to 3 different lookout points offering town and mountain views. (2 kms, 30 mins)

Cascada Escondida - The hidden waterfall is accessed via the Botanical Garden and it's a short and easy trail. (1,4 km, 25 mins)

Cerro Piltriquitrón - This is the most iconic mountain in El Bolson and its name means ‘hanging from the clouds’. The hiking trails leads up to a mountain refuge where you can spend the night or at the very least enjoy a meal. Be warned, it is a steep hike! (9.3 kms, 5 h)

Cabeza del Indio - This hike leads to a lookout of the valley where you can see the Río Azul and there’s also a rock that resembles a human head. (6.8 kms, 2 h 15 mins)

El Cajón del Azul - This hiking trail starts at the Wharton Farm and leads you to a forested river canyon with crystalline waters that range from turquoise to emerald. It's a popular summer destination to enjoy a swim, and the trail can also be done as part of a horseback riding tour. (17.4 kms, 5 h 45 mins)

You can find a complete list of hiking trails in El Bolsón on the All Trails website.

Day trips from El Bolson

There are so many fun day trips you can enjoy from El Bolsón - all of them featuring spectacular nature.

Also fun fact, the day trips listed below are all in the Province of Chubut! El Bolsón is located in the Province of Río Negro, but it is so close to the border with Chubut, that it's super easy to cross over and explore.

Lago Puelo

One of my personal favourite trips from El Bolsón is to Lago Puelo, which is located only 30 minutes south of town.

Lago Puelo is both a town and a national park. First you'll pass through town, and then you'll reach the park which is name after the lake.

This park offers lots of hiking trails with incredible lookout points where you can admire the beauty of Lake Puelo.

There are also boat tours that allow you to experience some of the park highlights and even hike to the Chilean border.

During the summer season, food trucks park close to the beach so you can enjoy a picnic with a view.

Cholila

Another easy day trip from El Bolsón is the Cholila Ranch that was once home to Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

These two outlaws earned themselves quite the reputation as bank and train robbers in the days of the American Wild West.

After law enforcement got a little too hot on their trail, they decided to escape to Patagonia.

Here they purchased land and bought cattle, however, they couldn't outrun their past. When the Pinkerton Detective Agency tracked them down, a local sheriff gave them the heads up so they could get out of dodge.

Butch Cassidy's Ranch is located just under 1 hour south of El Bolsón.

Getting there involves driving along National Route 40 and then turning west on Provincial Route 71. It's then on the right hand side just 10 kilometres outside the town of Cholila.

El Hoyo

Another day trip from El Bolsón to consider is El Hoyo.

This is only a 40-minute drive south of El Bolsón along National Route 40.

One of the main attractions in El Hoyo is Laberinto Patagonia, the largest labyrinth in South America! It sits on a 5-hectare estate and has 2,200 metres worth of paths. They also have a wonderful tea house on site with the most scrumptious cakes.

If wineries are more your thing, you'll be glad to hear that El Hoyo has a growing wine scene. A few to visit include Patagonian Wines, Bodega y Viñedos Ayestarán, and Allard Mammarelli Wines.

Epuyén

Another relatively short and easy day trip from El Bolsón is to Epuyén, just a 40-minute drive south of El Bolsón.

This town is best known for Lago Epuyen, a lake of glacial origins with crystalline blue waters that look out of this world.

People come to a point on the lake known as Puerto Patriada to enjoy a lakeside picnic with a bit of hiking, or even some kayaking.

Epuyén also has a buddhist stuppa, which with the surrounding mountain peaks, will make you feel like you've been transported to Nepal.

Plus it has a brewery and restaurants, so you won't go thirsty or hungry.

El Maitén

El Maitén is a popular day trip from El Bolsón for those wanting to ride aboard the Old Patagonian Express.

While the most famous train route is the one that runs from Esquel to Nahuel Pan, there is another segment that runs from El Maitén to Desvío Bruno Thomaé.

This is a 26 kilometre train journey across the Patagonian steppe.

It’s also worth arriving at the train station early in order to visit the Railway Museum and tour the Locomotive Repair Shop.

You can reserve this excursion at Grado 42, a tour agency that's located right in the centre of town on Avenida San Martín.

Where to stay in El Bolson

El Bolson is no longer the quiet, sleepy, hippie mountain town it once was.

In fact, it draws its fair share of travellers during the summer months when the town's population dramatically soares!

That also means there's no shortage of accommodations, whether you're looking for log cabins or a guesthouse, a geodesic dome or a hobbit home, you can find it all here!

La Aguada - high-end accommodations with mountain views, a swimming pool and a garden, all at the foot of Cerro Piltriquitron.

Casas Chaura - artsy two-story cabins that can fit 2-5 people, located just 6 blocks from the centre of town.

Hostel Cosmo - large family home turned cozy, rustic hostel with a nice garden right downtown!

Camping La Cascada - cool campsite in the outskirts of town next to the botanic garden and waterfall, featuring hobbit homes, tiny cabins, as well as campsites.

Where to eat in El Bolson

A Gusto

If you're travelling in Argentina and you're not vegetarian, you'll want to try the local cuisine, namely asado or parrillada. These names refer to an assortment of cuts of meat cooked on the grill over coals.

A Gusto in El Bolson does grilled meats very, very well!

Try their tablas de carne or meat platters to share. The tabla criolla features some classic cuts like rib eye steak, sirloin steak, pork sausage and blood sausage.

Either make a reservation or show up as soon as they open at 7pm - no Argentine would dine at this gringo hour, so you're almost guaranteed to get a table!

Address: Dorrego 539

Los Lúpulos

This restaurants does amazing pizzas and the best part is that they let you mix and match, so you can choose two different styles on one pizza.

The 'Los Lúpulos Pizza' with tomato sauce, mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, Patagonian cheeses and olives was one of our favourites.

Address: Avenida San Martín 2740

El Tablón

This place specializes in pizzas and empanadas. We only tried the empanadas, but they were so good that we came back for more!

A few fillings to try include pancetta y ciruela (bacon and plum), carne cortada a cuchilla (cubed meat with a juicy sauce), and roquefort (blue cheese).

You can dine indoors or on the patio, but they also do take-out in case you're craving a quiet evening and just want to eat back at your place.

Address: Avenida San Martín 2467

Awka Cervecería

Next up, there's Awka Cervecería, a local craft brewery in El Bolson.

What do you feel like drinking? Golden, Kolsh, American IPA, Honey, Oatmeal, Barleywine? They've got it all!

Pair that with a juicy hamburger and a side of loaded potatoes with melted cheddar cheese, bacon and spring onions, and you've got yourself a great meal.

Grab a seat in the outdoor patio, enjoy the music, and soak in the magic of a cool Patagonian evening.

Address: Perito Moreno and Dorrego

Patio Cervecero

This is a popular gathering place in El Bolson to have a few craft beers. They have blonds, reds, stouts, IPAs, honey and even raspberry beers on tap.

You can find a lot of classic Argentine dishes on the menu like milanesa al caballo, a breaded veal cutlet served with ham, cheese, and two fried eggs on top and a mountain of French fries on the side.

Frankfurters with chucrut, and Goulash with Spätzle are a few of their popular dishes.

Basically, hearty and filling food that pairs well with beer!

They offer outdoor seating on a patio as well as indoor seating.

Address: Avenida San Martin and Padre Feliciano

Helados Jauja

Patagonia is known for its artesanal ice creams, and in El Bolson, Helados Jauja is the place to go!

With flavours like Andean chocolate with walnuts, dulce de leche with brownies, and calafate berries with sheep's milk, there's plenty of temptation!

While Jauja has several locations across Patagonia, in El Bolson they also have an onsite cafe where you can enjoy more than just ice cream.

Their menu features sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, cakes, smoothies and a variety of teas and coffees.

Address: Avenida San Martín 2867

Café Paseo de las Flores

Café Paseo de Las Flores looks like something straight out of the shire. It seriously would not look out of place if a hobbit wandered out the front door.

The cafe set in a beautiful secret garden surrounded by all sorts of potted plants, cacti and blooms.

They only open in the afternoons, but it's the ideal place for an afternoon coffee or tea with a nice slice of cake.

In fact, they have a very fancy coffee menu featuring all sorts of concoctions. Want to add Fernet to your coffee? How about some Irish whisky? Or some rum for a more tropical feel? You can get as creative as you like!

Address: Azcuénaga 430


Things to Do in El Chalten | A Guide to Argentina's Trekking Capital

Today we're sharing the best things to do in El Chalten and because this is Argentina's trekking capital, that means lots of hiking!

El Chaltén is a small town nestled in the north end of Los Glaciares National Park. Surrounded by epic mountain peaks, granite spires and turquoise rivers, this mountain town has become a favourite destination in Patagonia for outdoor enthusiasts - hikers, rock climbers, rafters, you name it!

Most travellers to El Chalten are looking to catch a glimpse of two of the most iconic peaks: Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. However, there are loads of trails that lead to glacial lagoons, waterfalls and lookouts where you can see condors.

El Chalten is a destination that is best combined with a visit to El Calafate, which is the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier on the south end of Los Glaciares National Park.

In this travel guide, we're going to share all the best things to do in El Chalten, and that includes the top hikes, where to eat, where to stay, as well as some non-hiking activities should your legs need a rest in between.

Note: If you only have time for a short visit, this 3-day El Chalten itinerary might be right for you. It covers the main hikes and town highlights.

Getting to El Chaltén

By Air

To reach El Chaltén, you'll first need to fly into the nearest major airport, which is Comandante Armando Tola International Airport (FTE) in El Calafate. You can fly into El Calafate from Buenos Aires, Bariloche or Ushuaia. From El Calafate Airport, you'll need to travel by bus, car or taxi to El Chaltén.

By Bus

Several bus companies operate the route between El Calafate and El Chalten. The bus journey from El Calafate to El Chaltén takes between 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on whether your bus makes a midway stop at La Leona. You can browse ticket prices and departure times on BusBud.

By Car

If you prefer a more flexible schedule and want to explore the region at your own pace, you can rent a car at El Calafate Airport and drive up to El Chalten. The drive from El Calafate to El Chaltén is approximately 220 kilometres (137 miles) and takes around 2.5 hours, a bit longer if you're stopping for photos along the way and you probably will.

One thing is for sure, the journey to El Chaltén is beautiful with epic landscapes ranging from Patagonian steppe to turquoise lakes and finally, Mount Fitzroy rising on the horizon.

Things to Do in El Chalten, Argentina

El Chalten is a dream destination for hikers travelling to South America, so of course the main activities revolve around hitting the trails and well as outdoor adventures like rock climbing, rafting, kayaking and horseback riding.

First, we're going to cover all the main hikes in El Chaltén, and then we'll move on to some of the other non-trekking activities you can enjoy in and around town.

Laguna de los Tres

Difficulty: Hard

Distance: 24 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 1,068 metres

Time: 8-10 hours

The hike to Laguna de los Tres is one of the most spectacular treks in El Chaltén and for good reason! It leads up to this beautiful glacial lagoon with a glacier and three towering peaks in the background.

The name Laguna de los Tres translates to 'Lagoon of the Three' and it refers to the three peaks you see behind the lagoon: Fitz Roy (3,405 metres), Poincenot (3,002 metres), and Saint-Exupéry (2,558 metres).

The round trip to Laguna de los Tres is approximately 24 kilometres (14.9 miles). Yes, it is a hardcore day of trekking! The duration of the hike will vary depending on your pace and level of fitness, but it generally takes between 8 to 10 hours to complete.

Laguna de los Tres is considered a challenging hike, not just because of the distance, but because the final kilometre is a steep ascent up a rocky slope that will make you question your choices. Trekking poles are a good idea for this trek.

I was so tempted to throw in the towel and turn around on that final kilometre - I had already been walking for hours, I was tired, and that final climb didn't look like a whole lot of fun. But it was the encouragement from the people trekking down and telling us, "It'll be so worth it!" that kept us motivated.

Well, once we finally made it over the ridge, it really was all worth it and the effort it took to get there was quickly forgotten. We were rewarded with the most pristine glacial lagoon shimmering a deep blue, a glacier winding down the side of the mountain, and clouds blowing over Mount Fitz Roy and its neighbouring peaks.

We sought shelter behind a boulder (it was windy up there!), stared at the incredible views in front of us, devoured what we had left of our packed lunch, and gathered our energy for the steep descent and walk back to El Chalten.

I realize Laguna de los Tres may not be for everyone, considering how demanding it is, so this next trek is an alternative that will still give you spectacular views of Mount Fitz Roy.

Laguna Capri

Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: 8 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 430 metres

Time: 3-4 hours

The hike to Laguna Capri is a popular and relatively moderate trek and it's on the way to Laguna de los Tres.

The round-trip trek to Laguna Capri is approximately 8 kilometres (4.9 miles), and it usually takes around 3 to 4 hours to complete.

To be honest, the day we hiked to Laguna de los Tres, we were only planning to go as far as Laguna Capri. We got there and had a snack next to the lagoon, but then we realized it was still early in the day, we weren't tired, and if the views were already this epic, it could only get better from here.

But I digress, Laguna Capri is a beautiful hike in its own right and there's zero shame in making this your final destination.

The trail winds through diverse landscapes, including forests and open plains, with the stunning backdrop of Cerro Fitz Roy in the horizon. While this hike is considered moderate, some uphill sections require a reasonable level of fitness.

Overall, Laguna Capri is a fantastic way to experience the stunning landscapes of Los Glaciares National Park without the intensity of some of the more challenging treks in the area. Plus, the serene beauty of the lake and the surrounding mountains make it a beautiful place to linger and enjoy the views.

Laguna Capri is a half-day hike, so I would suggest packing a picnic and enjoying a leisurely meal next to the lake.

Cerro Torre

Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: 17.5 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 501 metres

Time: 6-7 hours

The hike to Cerro Torre is another iconic trek in El Chaltén offering stunning views of the famous Cerro Torre.

This peak is the highest of a four-mountain chain that also includes Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhardt.

The round trip to Cerro Torre is approximately 17.5 kilometres (10.8 miles). The duration of the hike varies but usually takes around 6 to 7 hours, depending on your pace and the trail conditions (some stretches can be muddy). It is considered a moderately challenging trek.

You start out hiking through a beautiful valley and you also get to see some waterfalls along the way.

The majority of the elevation gain happens at the start of the trek, but then things flatten out around kilometre 3.5, which makes it easy to set a steady pace and cover a lot of ground.

One of the things we enjoyed about this trail was the fact that we could see Torre Glacier in the horizon, which was motivating. Plus we got to hike through forests and along a river, so the scenery was constantly changing.

The highlight of the Cerro Torre hike is reaching the viewpoint overlooking Laguna Torre, a glacial lake at the base of Cerro Torre. The lake is often dotted with icebergs, and the backdrop of the iconic mountain provides a stunning setting for photography.

The downside of our experience was that by the time we reached the shores of Laguna Torre, clouds had rolled in and they covered Cerro Torre, so we didn't get that iconic view.

Once you reach Laguna Torre, you can continue a bit further to Mirador Maestri for even better views of the Torre Glacier.

Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

Difficulty: Hard

Distance: 18.3 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 1,127 metres

Time: 7 hours

Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is a good trek for those seeking a slightly less crowded alternative to some of the more popular trails in El Chaltén - namely Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre!

The trailhead starts at the Visitor Center, same as Mirador de Los Cóndores and Mirador de Las Águilas, except there is a marker indicating you go right.

You'll hike through scattered forests, then reach a section known as Pampa de las Carretas which is flat, and you'll then continue your ascent until you're past the timberline.

The final push is the hardest and most demanding portion of the hike given the quick elevation gain. It also consists of switchbacks and loose rock.

However, the highlight of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is reaching the summit and taking in the breathtaking vistas. The final destination is a viewpoint on a ridge that offers 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, including Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, Lake Viedma, Cerro Huemul and the Río Túnel Valley.

Be warned that it can be very windy at the top! The big joke with this hike is, "The only time you don’t go up is when you go down!"

Cerro Huemul Circuit

Difficulty: Very hard

Distance: 66.8 km

Elevation gain: 2,838 m

Time: 4 days

The Cerro Huemul Circuit is a challenging multi-day trek covering 66.8 kilometres on a loop trail where you'll be overnight camping along the way.

This is a technical trek best reserved for experienced hikers as it involves two river crossings (these can be done via pulley or barefoot) and part of the trail is across a glacier! You also need to carry all your own equipment, so if you're unsure, chat with the rangers at the Visitors Centre to see if this trail is for you.

Day 1 connects El Chaltén with Laguna Toro Camp. Then on Day 2 you continue from Laguna Toro Camp to Paso del Viento Camp. Day 3 brings you from Paso del Viento Camp to Lago Viedma Camp. Finally, on Day 4, you go from Lago Viedma Camp to Bahía Túnel, and you can then either arrange transportation (or hike) back to El Chaltén.

As with many treks in Patagonia, the best time to undertake the Cerro Huemul Circuit is during the Austral summer (December to March). During this period, the weather is more favourable for trekking, with milder temperatures and longer daylight hours, though it can be very windy.

Before embarking on the Huemul Circuit, you must first obtain a permit from the park office Centro de Visitantes Guardaparque Ceferino Fonzo. This can be done in the days leading up to your trek, or the morning of your departure. In order to qualify for the permit, you'll have to demonstrate you have the required gear and also watch a short presentation so you know what to expect from the trek.

This is a good overview of what the Huemul Circuit entails from someone who has actually done the trek.

Easy Hikes in El Chalten

Mirador Rio de las Vueltas

Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 2 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 200 metres

Time: 1 hour

Mirador de las Vueltas is a short hiking trail that provides views of the Las Vueltas River, which flows to the east of El Chalten.

The trailhead is on the north end of town at the end of Avenida San Martín and it's the same route you would take if you were hiking to Laguna Capri or Laguna de los Tres.

It's a 30-minute walk to reach the lookout. The trek is mainly uphill, but it's a short walk with beautiful views. Once you reach the lookout, you have wooden benches where you can sit, rest your legs and soak in the landscapes.

The trail provides impressive views of the Río de las Vueltas Valley, a winding river valley surrounded by rugged mountain terrain.

Mirador de los Cóndores

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate

Distance: 2.6 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 130 metres

Time: 1 hour

The hike to Mirador de los Cóndores is considered easy to moderate, making it suitable for most hikers, including families.

This is a short 2.6-kilometre round trip hike, and though the uphill climb can be a bit steep in places, the reward is the panoramic view of the town of El Chalten.

As its name suggests, Mirador de los Cóndores is an excellent place to spot Andean condors flying overhead. These magnificent birds have an impressive wingspan, and they are often seen soaring on the thermal currents in the area.

Aside from spotting condors, from the viewpoint, you can also enjoy panoramic views of El Chaltén, the De Las Vueltas River, and the surrounding peaks including Mount Fitz Roy. On clear days, the vistas are particularly breathtaking.

Because the viewpoint faces west, this is a nice spot to catch sunset over El Chaltén.

The trailhead begins near the entrance to El Chaltén and it's very well-marked, so finding your way will be straightforward.

Mirador de las Águilas

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate

Distance: 5.3 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 215 metres

Time: 2 hours

Mirador de las Águilas is another relatively easy yet rewarding trail, known for its breathtaking views and the opportunity to observe birds of prey, including eagles, which gives the viewpoint its name Eagles' Viewpoint.

This loop trail is 5.3 kilometres in length and it starts at the same trailhead as Mirador de Los Cóndores and it includes a stop at the same viewpoint.

You then continue east until you reach another lookout point that offers views of the Patagonian steppe, the milky turquoise waters of Lago Viedma, the Viedma Glacier, and the Andes Mountains.

Because this viewpoint faces east, this is a nice spot to catch sunrise.

Chorrillo del Salto

Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 6.6 kilometres round trip

Elevation gain: 139 meters

Time: 1.5-2 hours

Chorrillo del Salto is a popular and relatively easy hike in El Chalten. It is 6.6 kilometres round trip on a mostly flat trail, and it can take between 1.5 to 2 hours to complete depending on your pace.

The trail leads to the Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall, a picturesque and serene spot surrounded by lush forest. The waterfall itself is about 20 meters (65 feet) high and is a beautiful sight, especially after the rainy season when the water flow is at its peak.

The one thing we didn't like about this trail is that most of the hike is on a dirt road, Provincial Route 23, so it doesn't have the same appeal as a forest hike.

This is a suitable trail for hikers of all levels, including families with children.

There's a parking lot near the waterfall, so if you cannot hike, you can drive there and it's then a short walk to visit the waterfall.

Tips for trekking in El Chalten

Stop by the Visitors Centre. The office is located at the entrance of town and it's a good place to get information on various day hikes and current weather updates. This is also where you register for overnight treks.

Start the day early if you want to witness sunrise and bring a torchlight so you're not tripping on the trail.

Wear a sturdy pair of hiking boots. While you can get away with sneakers for easy hikes, you'll want a good pair of hiking boots if you're attempting some of the more challenging trails. Also, make sure you've broken in your boots before you arrive in Patagonia!

Pack a pair of trekking poles. These will come in handy for trails with a high elevation gain.

Dress in layers. Because the weather conditions in Patagonia are constantly changing, it's good to be prepared for all climates. I recommend a quick-drying base layer, a fleece, a weatherproof jacket and hiking pants. Bring a hat to protect yourself from the sun. Depending on the time of year you're visiting you may need a hat, scarf, and gloves.

Bring sufficient water and snacks. Many guesthouses around town offer a packed lunch service you can order the night before. Alternatively, there are small stores around town where you can load up on energy bars, nuts and fruit.

Wear sunscreen. Even if the weather feels mild, you can still get a sunburn.

Check the weather forecast before embarking on a hike. Intense winds can make certain hikes near impossible to complete. When in doubt, check at the Visitors Centre.

Register for overnight treks. This is mandatory so no hikers are unaccounted for. Share your proposed route and expected date of return at the Visitors Centre.

Other Things to Do in El Chalten (Not Trekking!)

Now let's move on to some fun things to do in El Chalten that don't involve any hiking! Your legs will probably need a break at some point during your visit, so here are other activities to consider.

River Rafting Río de las Vueltas

If you're looking for an outdoor adventure that's not hiking, consider kayaking the Río de las Vueltas on a guided tour.

Río de las Vueltas is a river of glacial origin that is born in Lago del Desierto and flows into Lake Viedma.

The first 6 kilometres of the river are calm, so it's a good opportunity to enjoy the surrounding scenery (hello Mount Fitz Roy!) and ease into the experience.

The second part goes through a canyon area. The initial rapid is called Portage (no, you are not getting out of the water and portaging your raft!) followed by a succession of class III to III+ rapids for the next 10 kilometres. Get ready for the adrenaline to start pumping!

Yes, these waters are glacially cold, as you'd expect, but you'll be geared up with a neoprene suit, microfleece, jacket, life jacket, helmet, neoprene boots and mittens.

Once the descent is finished, a van will be waiting to take you back to the base where you will change and enjoy a snack and a drink to recover your energy.

You can book your river rafting adventure on Río de las Vueltas here.

Kayaking Río de las Vueltas

If you want to hit the water, but rafting sounds a little to extreme, consider kayaking instead.

For this trip, you'll travel with your guide along Provincial Route 41 until you reach Lago del Desierto or Lake of the Desert.

Kayaking in these waters means getting decked out in all the necessary gear; in this case a neoprene suit, microfleece, jacket, helmet, life jacket, boots, mittens and paddles.

The kayaking adventure begins north of El Chaltén in a section of the river that's shallow. From this point, you'll travel 12 kilometres downstream, which will take between 1.5 and 2 hours depending on the river flow and wind conditions.

Along the way, you'll get to enjoy a unique perspective of Mount Fitz Roy, the Rio de las Vueltas Valley and the Andean forest.

The destination of this kayaking tour is Estancia Bonanza, where you'll have a delicious lunch at the ranch before returning to El Chaltén.

You can book your kayaking trip to Estancia Bonanza here.

Horseback Riding at Estancia Bonanza

Another activity you can enjoy in El Chaltén is horseback riding at Estancia Bonanza.

This estancia is located 12 kilometres north of El Chaltén and it sits at the foot of Cordón del Bosque, a mountain range that's characterized by its forests, glaciers, rivers and lagoons.

This horseback riding tour is 2 hours long and it takes you to the most remote corners of the ranch where you can enjoy unspoilt scenery in a corner of Patagonia that not many get to see.

Two daily horseback riding excursions are available: one in the morning with lunch, and the other in the afternoon with dinner. Hours are adjusted depending on the time of year.

So if you didn't get your fill of estancia life in El Calafate, you have the opportunity to visit another estancia here in El Chaltén!

You can book your horseback riding excursion at Estancia Bonanza here.

Rockclimbing in El Chaltén

El Chaltén is a popular destination for rock climbing. The Paredón is a giant wall to the east of town overlooking the Las Vueltas River, where you can often see rock climbers.

If you're looking to go with a guide, Mountaineering Patagonia are your people. They offer a single pitch rock climbing outing where you'll tackle routes ranging from grade IV to VI. You'll learn the basic knots, how to belay and rappel. This activity takes around 4 hours and is geared at those in beginner and intermediate levels.

They also offer a multi-pitch rock climbing full-day outing. The morning is spent on single-pitch routes ranging from grade IV to VI, and in the afternoon you move on to the multi-pitch climb (4-5 pitches) graded IV to V+. This activity takes between 6-8 hours.

Where to Eat in El Chaltén

Senderos

This restaurant is part of Hostería Senderos, a boutique guesthouse in the south end of town, and they serve up some delicious meals. We ate here on two occasions.

The first night, we tried their blue cheese risotto with walnuts and sundried tomatoes, as well as a lentil stew. This was our celebratory dinner after trekking to Laguna de los Tres.

We enjoyed the meal so much that we went back another time and had their ñoqui with wild mushrooms and stuffed ravioli in tomato sauce.

For dessert, we tried the apple pancake with calafate berry ice cream and a chocolate mousse. Both were divine!

La Zorra Taproom

This is another spot in town that we revisited because there's nothing better than a juicy hamburger and a mountain of loaded fries after a long day of trekking!

La Zorra Taproom is a brewpub and they specialize in hamburgers, pizzas, loaded fries and salads.

They also craft beer on tap with fun names like Scotch Ale, Passion Summer and Choco Milk.

They're located in the north end of town, so it's very convenient if you've just finished hiking one of the trails in that area.

Cúrcuma

This is a vegan restaurant in El Chaltén and we visited out of curiosity. Though we are not vegan, we were starting to crave some healthier veggie options after many of months pizza, pasta and parrilla in Argentina.

We were pleasantly surprised by their quinoa bowl loaded with grilled veggies, and we also had a type of barley bowl with more veggies and alfalfa.

Their current menu features items like pumpkin risotto, stuffed eggplant, zucchini pasta, and various wraps and salads. Plus loads of smoothies and fresh-squeezed juices.

La Waffleria

This spot specializes in waffles with savoury and sweet toppings. If you're craving something savoury, you can get waffles with ham and cheese, with bacon and eggs, or with blue cheese and walnuts.

And if you're craving something sweet, like we were, you have waffles with dulce de leche, with ice cream, or with whipped cream and berries. We got one with scoops of calafate berry ice cream.

Another cool thing about this restaurant is that they have card games available, so that makes it a nice place to linger.

Patagonicus

This restaurant is located in the south end of town and specializes in pizzas, soups and salads. The menu is simple but the food is filling.

They have 15 different pizzas on the menu - Napolitana, Calabresa and Roquefort, to name a few. They even a vegan pizza option.

This is a convenient location if you're planning to tackle some of the hikes near the Visitors Centre.

Where to Stay in El Chaltén

Here are three hotels in El Chaltén, representing luxury, mid-range, and budget-friendly categories, each with excellent reviews.

Hostería Vertical Lodge

This is where we stayed and it's a mid-range option! This guesthouse is located near the entrance of town, so on the south side overlooking the Las Vueltas River and the Paredón, which is the rock climbing wall.

It puts you close to the trailheads for Mirador de los Cóndores, Mirador de las Aguilas, and Loma Del Pliegue Tumbado.

The rooms are very spacious – great for sprawling all our hiking gear! And the bathroom is big with a piping hot shower, which was much appreciated at the end of a long day on the trails.

Breakfast is buffet style with plenty of sweet and savoury options. They also offer a packed lunch service, which we made use of for our two big days of hiking.

Book your stay at Hostería Vertical Lodge.

Los Cerros Boutique Hotel & Spa

Los Cerros Boutique Hotel & Spa is a 4-star boutique hotel located in the centre of El Chaltén. Because it sits on a small hill, it offers great views of the town below and the surrounding mountains.

The hotel has a spa with a hot tub and sauna, plus you can book hot stones massages - ideal for those who want a bit of pampering in between all the hiking.

Their on-site restaurant serves a combination of Patagonian and international dishes.

Book your stay at Los Cerros Boutique Hotel & Spa.

Hostel Rancho Grande

Hostel Rancho Grande is a ranch-style hostel conveniently located in the north end of town near some of the most popular trailheads like Laguna Capri and Laguna de los Tres.

The hostel provides mixed dormitories with shared bathrooms and private rooms with en suite bathrooms. Plus, it has a communal kitchen and a social atmosphere.

It's a budget-friendly option in El Chaltén, popular among backpackers and budget travellers.

Book your stay at Hostel Rancho Grande.

You can also find luxury glamping domes on the outskirts of town, so that might be one way to cap off your time in El Chaltén! Chalten Camp and Patagonia Eco Domes are two popular choices with travellers.

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When is the Best time to visit El Chaltén?

Spring (September to November)

Spring brings milder temperatures, and the landscape begins to awaken with blooming flowers. It's a quieter time with fewer tourists. The hiking trails start to become accessible, although some higher-altitude trails may still have snow.

Summer (December to February)

This is the high tourist season with the warmest temperatures. Daylight hours are long, and evenings are pleasant. This is when hiking trails are fully accessible and it's an excellent time for trekking and outdoor activities.

Fall (March to May)

Fall sees cooler temperatures, and the colours of autumn foliage add a unique charm to the landscape. The crowds diminish compared to the summer season, although it's a popular time of year for photographers to visit El Chalten. Hiking is still viable, although some trails might close later in the season due to snow.

Winter (June to August)

Winter is the coldest season, with snow covering the landscapes. Many facilities and accommodations close during this period. Winter offers a serene and peaceful atmosphere. It's a good time for photographers and those seeking a quieter experience. However, access to some hiking trails will be limited due to snow and ice. If you're interested in specific hikes, check their accessibility during your chosen time at the Visitors Centre.

Ultimately, the best time to visit El Chaltén depends on your interests and the type of experience you seek. If you're a trekking enthusiast, the austral summer months (December to February) offer the most favourable conditions. If you prefer a quieter atmosphere and don't mind some limitations on certain trails, the shoulder seasons of spring and fall can provide a wonderful experience.

Regardless of the season, be prepared for rapid weather changes. Patagonian weather is notoriously unpredictable, and conditions can shift quickly.

Read More:

El Calafate in 2 Days Itinerary

Choosing the Best Perito Moreno Boat Tour

Boat Tour to the Glaciers Aboard Maria Turquesa

Where to Stay in El Calafate

Fun Day Tours from El Calafate

15 Places to Visit in Patagonia

Patagonia with Gadventures: Choosing the Right Tour


Things to do in Esquel & Great Day Trips You Should Consider!

What are some of the best things to do in Esquel and what day trips should you consider?

The town of Esquel is situated in the northwestern end of the Province of Chubut, right at the foot of the Andes Mountain Range, and for a small mountain town, it has a lot to offer!

If you're an active traveller who enjoys nature and the outdoors, you'll like the hiking opportunities the town has to offer.

Plus, Esquel's strategic location makes it a great base for taking day trips to nearby places like Los Alerces National Park, the neighbouring Welsh community of Trevelin, the strange rock formations at Piedra Parada, and much more. In short, Esquel needs to be on your list of places to visit in Patagonia.

You could easily spend a week here and have a different activity for each day of the week, so in this article, we're going to share some of the best things to do in Esquel, plus some fun day trips to go on!

Things to do in Esquel, Argentina

Wondering what to do in Esquel? We've got you covered with this list of some of the top attractions in town.

Old Patagonian Express

One of the main draws to Esquel is the opportunity to travel aboard the Old Patagonian Express. In fact, that's what first piqued our interes in this town!

Known as La Trochita in Spanish, this historic narrow-gauge train dates back to 1935, and it’s one of the most iconic train journeys you can go on in all of Argentina.

It was made famous by Paul Theroux’s 1979 novel The Old Patagonian Express, in which he recounts his travels from his hometown in Massachusetts all the way down to Argentina by train.

Originally, the Old Patagonian Express stretched out across 402 kilometres, however, today only three shorter segments of the route can be travelled by tourists. The most popular of those segments is the one that runs from Esquel to Nahuel Pan.

The train station is located right in town, so you can just walk over and buy your tickets in person.

It’s a one-hour journey to Nahuel Pan, you then get 45 minutes to visit the Museum of Patagonian Culture and browse the artisanal market, before travelling another hour back to Esquel.

This is a half-day activity and it really is a must-do if you are planning to visit Esquel.

Laguna La Zeta

One of the main attractions in Esquel is Laguna La Zeta, a natural urban reserve on the outskirts of town. The lagoon gets its name from the Z-shaped trail that zig-zags its way up the mountain.

Laguna La Zeta can be reached by car (10 minutes) or on foot (1 hour). Just be aware that it’s a steep gravel road that hikers share with vehicles, so be mindful and stay to the side. Towards the end of the hike, the trail deviates into the forest for a bit of peace and serenity.

We hiked to the lagoon, but in retrospect, it would have been better to take a taxi to the lagoon and then do this trail that loops around the lagoon.

Once you reach Laguna La Zeta, you’ll notice there are kayak and canoe rentals, as well as horseback riding excursions. You can also enjoy a swim at the beach or stop to enjoy the view from the pavilion. It's even better if you pack a picnic!

Cerro La Cruz

As you can probably tell, hiking is one of the main things to do in Esquel, and another trek to add to the list is Cerro La Cruz or Mount of the Cross.

This trail takes about 1.5 hours each way, is medium-level difficulty, and reaches a maximum altitude of 1,050 metres.

This is a steep hike, but there are lookouts along the way, so you can enjoy some panoramic views of Esquel as you work your way to the top.

There are two main access points to hike Cerro de la Cruz. You can go via Barrio Baden on the east end of town or Barrio Ceferino on the west end.

Bike to Laguna Willmanco

If you're looking to stay active, another fun thing to do in Esquel is to rent a bike and cycle out to Laguna Willmanco. We were fortunate enough that our accommodations offered free bikes, so we hit the road.

It was a steep ride out of town along the same road that leads up to the ski resort. It's an 8-kilometre journey roundtrip. There were sections where we had to get off our bikes and push uphill, but it was well worth the effort.

Once we reached the white gate, we turned down a dirt road and rode towards the lagoon. The water was crystal clear, there were cows roaming free, and the mountain backdrop looked epic.

We loved it even on a grey, overcast day. I can only imagine what it would look like when the sun's out!

Horse trek at Estancia Huemules

One of my favourite memories from Esquel is the day we went horse trekking at Estancia Huemules. This estancia is set in a nature reserve 23 kilometres from the city of Esquel and it's a slice of paradise!

We just so happened to visit during peak autumn foliage and riding through the forest was a dream. We rode under a canopy of gold, and when we reached a clearing, we were able to see the mountain draped in shades of burgundy, pumpkin and ochre.

This, in my opinion, is one of the more epic things to do in Esquel! We loved our day out at Huemules Estancia de Montaña. Next time, we need to actually stay the night!

Day trips from Esquel

Now that we've covered what there is to see and do in Esquel, let's move on to the day trips. And there are a lot to choose from!

Esquel is the gateway to numerous attractions in the Province of Chubut and the surrounding landscapes are pretty epic.

Los Alerces National Park

First up, we have a day trip to Los Alerces National Park. This park is set in the Andes Mountains of northern Patagonia and its western boundary coincides with the Chilean border.

The park consists of Valdivian forest and is home to hanging glaciers, snowcapped mountains, alpine meadows, and lakes and rivers that shift from turquoise to emerald.

Some of the park highlights include trekking to the Torrecillas Glacier, kayaking on the Río Arrayanes, cruising the waters of Lake Menéndez, and meeting a grandfather Alerce tree that is over 2,600 years old!

We had an epic day there and we only explored a tiny fraction of the park. There is a lot to visit in Los Alerces National Park, so I would recommend spending the whole day there.

This full-day tour covers some of the main points of interest in the park like the Arrayanes River, Irigoyen Waterfall and Puerto Chucao.

Piedra Parada

A popular day trip from Esquel is to Piedra Parada, which literally translates to ‘standing rock’.

This is a protected natural area made up of 132 hectares, and it earns its name from the giant rock that rises 240 metres in the middle of the Patagonian steppe.

Aside from the standing rock, there is a trail that leads into Vulture’s Canyon, where you can see ancient cave paintings.

We had no idea this place existed prior to visiting Esquel. We ended up booking this tour on a whim because it's what was available last minute, and we were not disappointed. You can imagine our faces, when we reached this otherworldly landscape!

If you visit Piedra Parada as part of an organized tour, you’ll have a guide to share the history of the place, you’ll enjoy a picnic by the river’s edge, and do some hiking (it’s relatively flat, so nothing too strenuous).

This area is also considered a rock climbing mecca, so if you’re into the sport, you can arrange a day trip to Piedra Parada that involves some rock climbing.

Trevelin

If you want to dive into Welsh culture in Patagonia, Trevelin is another day trip you can consider from Esquel. It’s only a 30-minute drive, and it can be done by local bus or taxi.

This town was founded by Welsh immigrants, and its name means ‘mill town’ in Welsh, named after the first flour mill, which was established in 1891.

Trevelin sits on the banks of the Percy River, and it has a very relaxed feel with mountain views to the west.

Some of the travel highlights in Trevelin include visiting the tulip farm (in the springtime), enjoying a Welsh afternoon tea, going to the Andes Mill Museum, visiting local wineries, and touring the Nant Fach Mill, where you can learn more about the history of Welsh immigration to Patagonia.

Cholila

Another Esquel day trip to consider is to the town of Cholila.

This town was made famous by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, two American train and bank robbers who ended up hiding out in Patagonia.

They bought a ranch in Cholila - which is about as out of the way as you can get! - and changed their names in hopes of starting a new life.

Long story short, they were eventually tracked down, but their ranch in Cholila still stands.

La Hoya Ski Hill

If you’re travelling to Patagonia in the wintertime and you want to enjoy a bit of skiing and snowboarding, you can do so near Esquel.

The main ski centre there is La Hoya, which is a 30-minute drive north of town.

You can rent gear, book passes, or sign up for ski and snowboarding lessons all on their website.

Where to stay in Esquel

Hotel Sol del Sur - This centrally located hotel offers panoramic mountain views and a continental breakfast.

Departamentos Ailen - For those who prefer self-catering accommodations, this apartment in a quiet residential neighbourhood does the trick. (It's where we stayed!)

El Coiron Aparts - You can book at their main guesthouse or the Scandinavian-inspired cabins on the outskirts of town which offer an ideal setting for those looking for a quiet escape.

Where to eat in Esquel

Like almost anywhere else in Argentina, you're never too far from pizza and pasta. These are some of the places we ate at in Esquel:

Don Chiquino

For pastas, the most popular option in town is Don Chiquino. You choose your sauce and pasta to customize the dish just how you like it.

This is our favourite restaurant in Esquel and we've eaten there many times over the years, both at their old location and their new more-centrally located location.

I'm a big fan of their sorrentinos with walnuts, ricotta and mushrooms. The dish is pure perfection!

For dessert, you cannot go wrong with the Andean mousse featuring chocolate mousse, whipped cream, dulce de leche, chocolate shavings and walnuts.

You’ll need a nap after that!

Maria Castaña

If you’re looking to treat yourself to a big breakfast or indulge your sweet tooth for afternoon tea, then you need to visit Maria Castaña.

They know how to do cakes, pies and tarts, and it’s honestly kind of hard deciding what to order because everything looks so good! You can treat yourself to a specialty coffee and something sweet.

This is another spot we have visited many times both for breakfast and merienda, the Argentine equivalent of afternoon tea.

Fitzroya Pizza

If you’re craving pizza, head straight to Fitzroya. They have the classics, but they also get really inventive with some of their toppings. Plus, they let you order half and half if you can’t decide on one thing.

We ate there a few times and even tried their ‘jamón a caballo’ pizza, which featured bacon and fried eggs. We haven’t found a pizza like that since!

Alto Pollo

Food by the weight is a popular lunchtime option in Argentina. At Alto Pollo, you can choose what you feel like eating and exactly how much.

It’s a serve-yourself setting, so grab a container, load it up, weigh it and pay. They have a nice variety of meats, pastas, beans and salads.

This is a nice option if you’re in between activities and you don’t have time for a long sit-down meal at a restaurant.

How to get to Esquel

If you're arriving by air, you can fly into the Esquel Airport (EQS). Flights are operated by the national airline Aerolineas Argentina a few days a week and they all go through Buenos Aires.

Another way to get to Esquel is by bus. There are multiple connections across Patagonia, including plenty of overnight buses to some further away destinations. You have all the major regional bus operators like Mar y Valle, Don Otto, Via Bariloche, Transporte Jacobsen, and Etap. So wherever you're coming from, there's a bus to Esquel!

If you prefer to have a bit more control over your schedule, then you can rent a car to get around Esquel and the surrounding area. You can book one at the Esquel Airport or one of the numerous car rental agencies across town.


Things to Do in San Antonio de Areco, Argentina

These are the best things to do in San Antonio de Areco whether you visit on a day trip from Buenos Aires or stay overnight!

San Antonio de Areco is known as the cradle of gaucho culture and tradition and the best part is that it's a super accessible destination from Buenos Aires.

This is the place to visit if you want to spend the day at an estancia, learn about gaucho culture, and visit museums and galleries that document rural country life in Argentina.

The town of San Antonio de Areco is set in the pampas, the vast flat plains that are home to endless cattle ranches and agricultural lands.

Visiting the town is like taking a step back in time; colonial buildings line the plazas and green boulevards, you can see locals riding their horses through town, and every few blocks you'll come across a traditional bar known as a pulpería.

Whether you're visiting on one of your day trips from Buenos Aires or spending the night, in this San Antonio de Areco travel guide we'll share everything you need to know to plan your perfect trip!

Short on time? You can visit San Antonio de Areco on a guided day tour from Buenos Aires, which includes a day at a local estancia plus transportation to and from the city.

How to Get to San Antonio de Areco

First things first, how do you get to Antonio de Areco? You have three options, so let's cover them all from easiest to hardest.

Book a tour

The easiest way to visit San Antonio de Areco is to join a guided tour that includes transportation to and from Buenos Aires. These tours offer hotel pick-up and drop-off, so you don't have to worry about navigating public transportation, especially if you aren't confident in your Spanish skills.

Most day tours to San Antonio de Areco combine a visit to the town with a day at an estancia. Here are a few different ones to consider:

Gaucho Day at Estancia + Town - You will briefly visit Museo Draghi, Parroquia San Antonio de Padua, and Boliche de Bessonart Bar in the town of San Antonio de Areco. You will then continue to the estancia for horseback riding or carriage riding, a traditional Argentine BBQ, live folklore music and dance, and a horse-whispering demonstration by a gaucho.

Gaucho Day at Estancia + Town (Private Tour) - This private tour also begins with a stop in the town where you'll visit Parroquia San Antonio de Padua, Boliche de Bessonart Bar, Town Hall, Museo Draghi, The Copper Pot Chocolate Shop, and the Gaucho Museum. This private tour covers a few more landmarks in town than the group tour. You then continue to the estancia for a horseback ride or carriage ride, a traditional Argentine BBQ, live folklore music and dance, and a horse-whispering demonstration by a gaucho.

Take the bus

Your next option is to take the bus, which is what we did. We travelled from Retiro, the main bus terminal in Buenos Aires, to San Antonio de Areco.

The bus company Chevallier offers the most frequency, but even so, there are only a handful of buses per day, so you'll want to plan your schedule in advance. You can check out BusBud for updated departures. I would also recommend buying your return ticket in advance to guarantee you have a way back into the city!

It's important to know that San Antonio de Areco does NOT have a bus terminal! You will be dropped off at a gas station on the side of the highway. From there, you'll need to take a taxi or you're looking at a 20-minute walk into town (there is an overpass to get across the highway).

Getting a taxi proved to be a little tricky. There were no taxis waiting there, so we had to ask someone to call us a taxi at the kiosk by the bus stop and when that didn't work, we tried at the gas station. Because this is a small town, there aren't that many taxi drivers, and it took a few attempts to find a driver who was available. You'll need some Spanish if you run into this problem, but in the worst-case scenario, you walk.

Rent a car

Your next option is to rent a car either in Buenos Aires or Ezeiza and drive yourself to San Antonio de Areco.

Would I recommend this to non-experienced travellers who haven't driven in major cities? No way! Driving in Buenos Aires is not for the faint-hearted, and you may be shocked by the way drivers swerve across lanes.

However, most locals do drive to San Antonio de Areco and we even met an Italian couple who did the same - they said it was easier than driving in Italy, so take that with a grain of salt!

Things to do in San Antonio de Areco, Argentina

There are plenty of things to do in San Antonio de Areco to keep you occupied for an action-packed day or even for a couple of days! Most of the activities in and around town revolve around the gaucho culture, silversmithing and estancias.

Spend the day at an estancia

I would say the main draw to San Antonio de Areco is to come and experience the rich gaucho culture, and the best way to do so is by spending the day at an estancia.

There is no shortage of estancias in San Antonio de Areco, but the most famous of them all is El Ombú de Areco. This estancia dates back to 1880, and it has belonged to the same family since 1934. They offer a countryside gaucho day program, which is what we booked.

During our visit to the estancia, which was a full-day activity, we were welcomed with empanadas and a beverage that we enjoyed out in the garden. We then had the opportunity to go on a guided horseback ride of the estancia or a carriage ride - we opted for the latter since it's something we hadn't done before!

Next, we enjoyed a traditional Argentine asado or BBQ out on the veranda of the historic home. The food was abundant with multiple salads and side dishes and seemingly never-ending meat platters featuring sausage, beef, pork and chicken. This was followed by dessert and coffee.

As lunch was beginning to wind down, we got to enjoy folklore music, and later all the guests were invited to learn a traditional dance. I was quite impressed that not one single guest declined! I'm pretty sure it's because everyone was feeling pretty brave after downing a full bottle of Malbec wine. It was a really fun experience.

Then, it was time for the doma india, which can best be translated as 'horse-whispering'. Gauchos have a unique bond with their horses and their approach to taming them is a gentle one built on trust. We got to see a demonstration where the gaucho led his horse into a variety of positions - down on his side, on his back, legs in the air - all demonstrating their close bond.

We then had free time to enjoy the estancia. During the summer months, you can pack your bathing suit and towel and enjoy the swimming pool. The rest of the year you can enjoy the soccer field, volleyball court, pool tables, ping pong and more. Honestly, after so much food, we were just happy to rest on the lounge chairs and befriend the estancia dogs. That was about all we could handle!

Finally, it was merienda time, which would be the equivalent of an afternoon tea. We got to enjoy a beverage and a slice of cake, which was on the lighter side for a merienda, but I don't think we could have possibly eaten any more!

So that gives you an idea of what to expect from an estancia day in San Antonio de Areco - in this case, at El Ombú de Areco.

Visit the silversmith workshops

San Antonio de Areco is well-known for its many silversmith workshops and as such, it's a great destination to buy Argentine silver. You'll see many Taller de Platería signs, which in Spanish translate to 'silversmith workshop'.

We visited the Draghi Silversmith Workshop and the Draghi Museum located on the north end of Plaza Ruiz de Arellano. The Draghi name is very respected in San Antonio de Areco and is synonymous with the silversmithing tradition.

The workshop was founded by Juan Jose Draghi, one of Argentina's most notable silver craftsmen, who during the 1960s took the dying gaucho silversmithing tradition and put it back on the map.

The Draghi Museum boasts a small, private collection that showcases the evolution of silversmithing in Argentina from the 19th century up until the present. They have beautiful displays of silver mates (used to drink Argentina's famous bitter, green tea beverage), silver knives, and all sorts of decorative silver items worn by gauchos and horses.

The tradition has since been continued by Juan Jose Draghi's two sons: Mariano Draghi works out of the workshop at Lavalle 387 while his brother Patricio Draghi works one block north out of the workshop on Arellano 45.

Enjoy a walking tour of Areco's main sights

We found San Antonio de Areco to be a super walkable town.

Many of the main attractions are clustered around Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, a beautiful tree-lined square named after the town's founder. On weekends, you can shop at the local fair, which features all sorts of handmade crafts and artisanal goods.

On the south side of the plaza, you'll find the town church Parroquia San Antonio de Padua, and you have the Old Town Hall on the northwest corner.

Just a couple of blocks north of the central square, you can enjoy a riverside walk along the Areco River before crossing over to the other side of town via Puente Viejo or the Old Bridge. Just beware that if you visit during the summer months, the mosquitoes can be fierce by the water, so wear bug spray or cover up!

Try the artisanal chocolate

La Olla de Cobre translates to 'The Copper Pot' and it's the most famous artisanal chocolate shop in San Antonio de Areco. Seriously, if you have a bit of a sweet tooth, you need to swing through here!

What makes this chocolate shop special is that it combines hand-selected ingredients with a willingness to experiment with a combination of flavours, aromas and textures.

We visited after a busy morning of museum-hopping and wandering the town's cobbled streets. As soon as we arrived, we were invited to sample some of their chocolate.

We decided to get a sampler box with a whole bunch of different flavours. You can get chocolate with dulce de leche, coconut, cereal, peanuts, almonds, figs, plums, rum-soaked grapes, cinnamon and so much more.

Plus, they also have delicious alfajores filled with dulce de leche and bathed in either chocolate or meringue. We just had to get one of each!

I was under the impression that this place was like a cafe where you can sit down and enjoy your chocolate or alfajores, maybe with a cup of coffee, but it's strictly a shop and quite a small one at that, so you place your order and go.

Address: Matheu 433

Museums in San Antonio de Areco

Before you begin your quest to visit the many museums of San Antonio de Areco, I would recommend making sure they are actually open as some of these are on the outskirts of town.

On the southeast end of Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, you're going to find a small booth offering tourist information. You can chat with the person there to see if any of the museums are temporarily closed, plus you can get an updated schedule for each museum since opening hours vary depending on the time of year.

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes - This museum is located on the other side of the Areco River and can be reached by crossing the Old Bridge or Puente Viejo. It is set inside Parque Criollo, which is a National Historic Monument. The museum is named after Argentine novelist and poet Ricardo Güiraldes best known for his 1926 gaucho novel Don Segundo Sombra. The focus is rural country life in the Argentine Pampas as well as gaucho culture. View the website here.

Usina Vieja Museo Centro Cultural - This museum is set in a former power plant that supplied electricity to part of the town in its early days. The space is divided into three different galleries plus an outdoor courtyard with wooden sculptures.

Museo Las Lilas De Areco - This museum features paintings and sculptures depicting scenes of gaucho life and rural Argentina. There are sets where you can pose for photos and there's a beautiful central courtyard. View the website here.

Museo Draghi - We already mentioned this museum when we talked about the silversmiths in town. This museum is located inside the Draghi workshop and it has a small but impressive private collection featuring all things silver.

La Recova De Gasparini - This art museum features the paintings of Miguel Ángel Gasparini. He is a local painter and is often there to welcome visitors. The focus of his works is gaucho culture.

Museo Evocativo Osvaldo Gasparini - This is a small museum showcasing the works of Osvaldo Gasparini across different mediums. His son offers guided visits.

Where to Eat in San Antonio de Areco

San Antonio de Areco has a really fun mix of restaurants, cafes and pulperías (old bars). Here are a few of the highlights.

El Mitre

El Mitre is a historic bar located on the southwest corner of Plaza Ruiz de Arellano. This was the first restaurant we visited in San Antonio de Areco, mainly because it's such a convenient location right across from the main square.

I had been craving steak so I got the bife de chorizo or strip steak. This was served with a side salad and an order of crispy fried potato slices.

Meanwhile, Sam ordered the milanesa a la napolitana, which is like a veal schnitzel topped with tomato sauce, ham, cheese and oregano. This is a classic dish and it came with a side of French fries.

Address: Alsina 151

Almacén de Ramos Generales

Another restaurant we enjoyed was the Almacén de Ramos Generales which features classic regional dishes.

I got their corn pie casserole; picture a shepherd's pie where the mashed potato is swapped out for mashed corn. Both the corn and the ground beef were slightly sweet, which I really enjoyed.

Sam ordered the pork cutlets topped with caramelized onions and served with apple puree, so it was another sweet dish!

Address: Zapiola 143

El Tokio

For a hearty homemade lunch, we visited El Tokio; don't let the name fool you, this is not a Japanese restaurant!

I ordered their grilled chicken with a side of pumpkin puree - a simple yet sweet and filling meal. Meanwhile, Sam got the homemade potato ñoqui with the bolognese sauce - these were plump and simply divine.

El Tokio is also very well known for its ice cream. They have a mouthwatering list of flavours featuring lots of Argentine classics like dulce de leche, flan, and kumquat in whiskey.

Address: Arellano 152

Balthazar Areco

This pulpería feels like a living museum; the walls are adorned with all sorts of collectibles and antiques.

We had dinner here one night and ordered the picada to share. This is basically a snacking board featuring an assortment of cheeses, deli meats, nuts, olives, raisins and bread. It's a nice light option if you've been indulging in some heavier meals during your visit.

The menu here is honestly quite limited and simple, so it's more of a place for drinks and snacks. Think sandwiches, empanadas, and a dish of the day. You come here more for the ambience than the food.

Address: Arellano 143

Where to Stay in San Antonio de Areco

We have an entire guide dedicated to the best places to stay in San Antonio de Areco, featuring a mix of estancias and boutique hotels. However, here's a condensed list with some varied options.

Estancia La Cinacina - This is one of the few estancias that's within walking distance of the old town - just 6 blocks to the central plaza to be precise! This is where we stayed. We thoroughly enjoyed the sprawling grounds and the rustic and colonial charm of the place, plus breakfast was abundant. We visited a bit later in the season, but they do have a swimming pool for those visiting in the summertime.

Hotel Draghi - This is a charming boutique hotel run by the Draghi family who are known for their silversmithing in town. The property features antique furnishings, a charming garden with a water fountain, and a central location right in the heart of the historic town centre.

La Escondida - This bed and breakfast is centrally located in the old town. It features simple rooms with a charming courtyard and it's one of the top-rated properties in its price range.

Many Buenos Aires estancias are clustered in and around San Antonio de Areco, so this is a great town to visit if you're after that experience.

You can also find some unusual accommodations like converted train cars, so there are glamping options to consider!

Tips for visiting San Antonio de Areco

There are a few things to consider when planning a visit to San Antonio de Areco which will impact your experience, so here we go:

Day trip or stay overnight?

San Antonio de Areco is a very versatile destination; you can plan an action-packed day trip where you hit up the main attractions, or you can opt for a quieter visit where you enjoy the slow-paced rhythm of this gaucho town.

We opted for the latter and I think this is a great place to unwind after experiencing the frantic energy of Buenos Aires, however, if you're short on time, there's nothing wrong with visiting for the day.

Weekends are livelier

Since we spent several days in San Antonio de Areco, we got to see it buzzing with visitors over the weekend, which is also when all the restaurants, cafes and attractions were open.

By contrast, weekdays offered fewer sightseeing opportunities as businesses operate on a more reduced schedule.

There were no crowds on weekdays, so we got to experience a more local vibe, but food options were also limited to a handful of restaurants.

Visit an estancia for the full experience

Part of the draw to San Antonio de Areco is the destination's rich gaucho tradition and the best way to experience this is by spending the day at one of the many estancias.

The program varies from one estancia to the next, but the one we visited - Estancia El Ombú de Areco - offered visitors the chance to ride horses, feast on a traditional Argentine barbecue, enjoy traditional folklore music and dance, and witness a horse-whispering demonstration with a gaucho.

Plan your transportation

As I mentioned earlier, transportation to San Antonio de Areco needs to be planned in advance.

Daily buses operate on a limited schedule and can sell out, so you'll want to book your seat there and back in advance.

Alternatively, consider a day tour that includes transportation to and from Buenos Aires, or if you're spending the night, see if your hotel can arrange a private transfer.

Attend Fiesta de la Tradición

If your travels are bringing you to Buenos Aires in November, then you may want to attend Fiesta de la Tradición.

This is an action-packed 3-day event where you can experience gaucho traditions. There is a gaucho parade on horseback, live folklore music, traditional dancing, local food and so much more.

If you plan to attend this festival, book your accommodations in advance as it's a big event that draws visitors from far and wide.

Beware of the mosquitoes

If you are visiting San Antonio de Areco during the summer months, know that it can get quite hot and humid.

The temperatures tend to bring out the mosquitoes in swarms (some years are worse than others!) and it can be especially bothersome along the river. If this coincides with your visit, pack some bug spray because you'll need it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2MypgH5bB0
Things to Do in San Antonio de Areco Travel Guide


Things to do in Tolhuin: The Lakeside Town Near Ushuaia

Today we’re sharing some things to do in Tolhuin, a sleepy lakeside town on the Andes Mountain range at the ends of the Earth in the province of Tierra del Fuego.

This is one of the most popular Ushuaia trips visitors can take from the southernmost city on Earth.

Some people choose to visit Tolhuin for a half day, others for a full day, but if you really want to experience the magic of this tranquil lakeside town, you should give yourself at least 2-3 days.

Maybe you’ve had a few busy days sightseeing around Ushuaia, maybe you’re fresh off an Antarctica cruise, or maybe you’re just looking for a quiet destination to end your Patagonia trip.

Reaching Ushuaia takes some effort, so you may as well linger a while!

Whatever is that brings you here, we have some ideas of things to do in Tolhuin, as well as recommendations for where to stay and where to eat.

The following is our travel guide to Tolhuin, Argentina.

The lakeside town of Tolhuin in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

How to get to Tolhuin

The distance between Ushuaia and Tolhuin is 103 kilometres or 1 hour and 20 minutes.

The easiest way to get to Tolhuin is by taking a bus or a combi from Ushuaia.

Alternatively, if you feel comfortable renting a car in Argentina, you can do so.

Just keep in mind that most cars are manual and this is a windy road that involves crossing the Andes Mountain range at the bottom of the world.

However, if you’re only interested in visiting Tolhuin for the day, I would recommend booking a tour that takes care of transportation and sightseeing.

The back road that leads to Tolhuin

Tolhuin Day trip from Ushuaia

If you do decide to visit Tolhuin on a day trip, this full day 4x4 tour with an Argentine BBQ is the most popular option.

This tour departs from Ushuaia, takes you to the Garibaldi Pass, which is the only paved route across the Fuegian Andes and also the highest point on Argentina’s Ruta Nacional 3.

From the Garibaldi Pass you get to see Lago Escondido which means 'hidden lake', and you then begin an off-roading adventure along the lake's edge and through the forest before reaching Lago Fagnano.

This tour ends with a traditional Argentine asado featuring choripán (chorizo on a bread bun), bife de chorizo (striploin steak), salad, Malbec wine and cheese.

You won't get to visit the actual town of Tolhuin, but you'll get to see some of the main attractions in the area as well as enjoy some Argentine hospitality with a delicious meal.

Where to stay in Tolhuin

If you would like to spend a few days in Tolhuin, I would recommend Hostería Kaiken, which is where we stayed.

This is a beautiful guesthouse set atop a cliff overlooking Lago Fagnano, and it offers hotel rooms in the main building as well as cottages up on the hill.

If you’re looking for a quiet place to relax and unwind in nature, this place fits the bill. It's one of the most underrated places to visit in Patagonia.

Views of Lago Fagnano from Hostería Kaiken

Hostería Kaiken sits on a cliff overlooking the lake

They also have an excellent restaurant on site called Restaurant Shelk'nam where you can enjoy all sorts of traditional Patagonian dishes.

The only downside is that it’s a long walk to town, but the hotel was always happy to call us a taxi.

Tolhuin is quite small and there are limited accommodations, so if you’re planning to visit during the summer season, it’s a good idea to book in advance.

Things to do in Tolhuin

Lago Fagnano

One of the big draws to Tolhuin is Lago Fagnano, a lake shared by both Argentina and Chile. It is known as Lago Cami on the Chilean side; the word Khami means 'large waters' to the Selk'nam people.

The lake is of glacial origins and it runs east to west stretching 98 kilometres, 72.5 km of which sit on the Argentine side of the border.

With Lago Fagnano, you never know what you're going to get! One day it could be calm as a mirror and another day the ferocious waves could make you think you're entering the Drake Passage!

An old rusty boat on the shores of Lago Fagnano

Lago Fagnano on a windy day means waves

Visiting Lago Fagnano in Tolhuin

When the lake is calm, kayaking is the activity of choice. Puerto Khami Extremo and Aventura Tolhuin are two local operators that offer kayak and canoe rentals.

If you really want to go kayaking, it’s a good idea to have some flexibility in your schedule and do this activity sooner rather than later. The weather is quite unpredictable around these parts, so make the most of those rare days with calm waters and clear skies.

Fishing is another popular activity, and if not, you can also enjoy a stroll along the pebbly shores.

Camping Hain

Perhaps one of the most unusual places you can visit in Tolhuin is Camping Hain.

Don’t be fooled by the name, even if you’re not planning to camp out by the lake, you’ll want to see what they’ve built here.

This place is an art project meets recycling centre meets junk yard, where somebody's trash is someone else's treasure.

Camping Hain is one of Tolhuin's attractions

Camping Hain in Tolhuin

Where somebody's trash is someone else's treasure

The family that runs this campsite has taken it upon themselves to reuse glass, plastic, wooden pallets and all sorts of random objects by repurposing them as art in this quirky outdoor gallery filled with the carcasses of old tractors, cars and planes.

It's hard to describe this place because it's not something you see every day, but for a small admission fee, you can tour the grounds, chat with the mastermind behind the place, and take some one-of-a-kind photos.

Laguna Negra Provincial Reserve

Another activity to enjoy in Tolhuin is hiking in the Laguna Negra Provincial Reserve.

This nature reserve sits on the northeast end of Lago Fagnano, and it is accessed via a coastal trail that begins at Camping Hain.

The hiking trail starts at the pier and follows the lake's coastline going across southern Fuegian forest, through peat bogs, and continues past the 'black lagoon' where it ends shortly thereafter.

Laguna Negra Provincial Reserve in Tolhuin

Fuegian forest and Laguna Negra

The trail is 3.9 kilometres in length, takes 2 hours to complete, and is considered low difficulty.

Another fun fact is that the Magallanes-Fagnano fault system runs through here, so you have the South America Tectonic Plate and the Scotia Tectonic Plate, which are slowly shifting a few centimetres each year. You'll notice a sign for it along your hike.

Where to eat in Tolhuin

La Posada de los Ramirez

If you happen to be in Tolhuin on a Sunday, La Posada de los Ramirez is the place to be!

This is asado or barbecue day at the restaurant and people come from as far as Ushuaia and Rio Gallegos to enjoy the meal which features Patagonian lamb, various cuts of meat, chorizo, morcilla and more. It's an event in and of itself.

Lunch at La Posada de los Ramirez

Sunday BBQ at La Posada de los Ramirez

Fret not if you find yourself here midweek, while there may be no BBQ, you can still order steak, seafood, pastas and more, so you certainly won't go hungry.

Restaurant Shelk'nam

This restaurant is located in Hostería Kaiken and it's worth a visit even if you're not staying there!

Restaurant Shelk'nam specializes in Patagonian dishes and the food quality is excellent. We ate there numerous times during our stay and managed to sample large part of their menu!

Sorrentinos stuffed with mushrooms and walnuts

Dining at Restaurant Shelk'nam

A delicious creamy shrimp chowder

We tried the creamy shrimp chowder, the sorrentinos stuffed with mushrooms and walnuts, the cheesy veggie lasagna served with a tomato and cream sauce.

Not to mention their chocolate volcano brownies with ice cream and their apple crumble.

And then the wine - every meal was paired with an exquisite bottle of red wine!

Plus the views were stunning; the dining room is set in a salon with large windows overlooking the ever-changing Lago Fagnano.

Panadería La Union

Panadería La Union is a very famous bakery in Tolhuin and it’s one of the main tourist attractions in town.

Buses completing the long journey from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia tend to stop here for a break and to give people a chance to grab a bite.

Aside from being a tourist stop, the bakery is also well-frequented by locals who use it as a gathering place to meet up with friends, watch sports on television, and enjoy some delicious baked goods! Plus over the years it has welcomed all sorts of celebrities and even presidents.

The bakery experienced a horrific fire in January 2021 that destroyed the building, but the community rallied together (both locals and visitors alike) to raise funds, and it's now back bigger and better than ever.

Chipá are cheese bread balls made with cassava starch

Empanadas are stuffed meat pastries

So what can you eat at Panadería La Union? They have empanadas (stuffed meat pastries), facturas (viennoiserie), chipá (cheese bread balls), artisanal chocolate and more!

There are also some really friendly dogs who like to hang around the entrance and greet visitors, so don’t be shy and give them a pet!

So there you have it! If you're travelling in Ushuaia and you've already visited the post office at the end of the world, travelled aboard the train of prisoners, sailed the Beagle Channel, feasted on Fuegian cuisine, are in the mood to see a different side of Tierra del Fuego, visit Tolhuin!

This is a great place to enjoy a few days of leisure at the ends of the Earth.