Coastal Patagonia Travel Itinerary: 14-Days Along the Argentine Coast!

So you're travelling to Argentina and you're considering a coastal Patagonia travel itinerary. Where should you go and what should you do?

Well, we've got you covered!

Coastal Patagonia may not get as much attention as its mountainous counterpart, but it offers hundreds of kilometres of beaches and it's one of the best places in Patagonia for wildlife viewing opportunities - we're talking penguins, sea lions, elephant seals, Southern right whales and more!

Plus, coastal Patagonia is also home to a surprising number of Welsh communities seeing as this is where the early Welsh settlers first landed.

Much like with our Northern Patagonia travel itinerary, on this road trip guide we'll be covering places to visit, activities to enjoy, where to stay and more.

This coastal Patagonia travel itinerary features a mix of port cities and seaside towns, so there's plenty of variety.

The coastal route takes 14 days to complete and can be driven from north to south starting in Puerto Madryn, or south to north starting in Comodoro Rivadavia. The choice is yours!

Coastal Patagonia Travel Itinerary

Puerto Madryn

2 days

The first stop on this coastal Patagonia travel itinerary is the port city of Puerto Madryn.

Yes, this city is known as the gateway to Península Valdés and all the wildlife viewing opportunities the destination offers, however, right now we're going to focus on what you can do in the city before you make your way over to the peninsula.

Things to do in Puerto Madryn

Museum of the Man and the Sea

The Museum of the Man and the Sea is housed in the former home of Agustín Pujol, an early pioneer who immigrated from Catalunya and built this beautiful house in 1915.

The museum is spread out across the home’s three floors and focuses on local wildlife both on land and the sea.

Don't miss the giant squid exhibit; it looks like something straight out of Moby Dick!

EcoCentro

The EcoCentro is an interpretive space that looks at man's relationship with the marine ecosystem. It’s a space that combines science and fine arts to raise awareness about our natural world.

The EcoCentro also has a tower that resembles a lighthouse where you can go up and enjoy the views. They have sofas and books, so it's a nice place to linger on a rainy day!

Caves of the Welsh Settlers

When the Welsh first disembarked on the shores of Puerto Madryn in 1865, they set up temporary shelters in the caves that line the coast.

Today, there's also a small museum on-site called Museo del Desembarco Punta Cuevas.

Inside, there's a display of the Mimosa, the ship they sailed on, as well as photographs and items that were brought over from Wales on this quest for a new life.

Comandante Luis Piedra Buena Pier

If you’re looking for a nice sunset stroll, the pier is the place to be!

The Comandante Luis Piedra Buena Pier juts out into the gulf and there are always people fishing, birdwatching, or enjoying a leisurely walk.

It’s not open to the public on cruise days (since this is where passengers disembark by the hundreds), however, if there's no cruise ship docked at the end, you’re good to go.

Where to stay in Puerto Madryn

Hotel Territorio - 4-star luxury hotel situated in the outskirts of town overlooking the ocean

Hotel Península Valdés - 4-star hotel with bright rooms and a beachy feel

Hotel Bahía Nueva - 3-star centrally located hotel with an impressive buffet breakfast and a cosy feel

Day Trips from Puerto Madryn

Without touching on any of the activities on Península Valdés quite yet, here are some of the other day trips you can enjoy from Puerto Madryn.

Snorkelling with Sea Lions – this is a 3-hour excursion to Punta Loma Nature Reserve where you can go snorkelling with sea lions in their own habitat

Punta Tombo Penguin Colony – this is a 9-hour tour to Punta Tombo where penguins come to mate and give birth every year, and there's the option to add on a dolphin-watching tour (weather permitting)

Península Valdés & Puerto Pirámides

3 days

Península Valdés is the highlight of any coastal Patagonia travel itinerary, and while many choose to visit for the day from neighbouring Puerto Madryn, the best way to experience the peninsula is by staying on the peninsula!

And because there's only one town on the whole peninsula, you'll be staying in Puerto Pirámides.

First, we'll cover some of the various destinations you can explore on the peninsula, and then we'll share what there is to see in the actual town.

Things to do in Península Valdés

Istmo Ameghino Interpretation Centre

The first attraction you'll hit is the Istmo Ameghino Interpretation Centre which is located on the narrowing that leads to Península Valdés.

This may not seem like the most exciting stop on the tour when there is wildlife to see, but it does serve as an introduction to the local biodiversity on the peninsula with accompanying facts about each species, their behaviour and migration patterns.

There are also displays of a whale skeleton and the skull of an orca. And there's a lookout point you can climb in hopes of spotting a real whale out in the bay!

Punta Norte

Punta Norte translates to 'north point' and as the name suggests it's the northern point on the peninsula.

There's a boardwalk that leads to the edge of the bluffs where you can typically see sea lions basking in the sun.

Since we visited in mid-February, there were lots of pups splashing in the water and familiarizing themselves with their new surroundings.

There was also a smaller group of elephant seals a bit further down, but it was towards the end of the season for them.

Estancia San Lorenzo

In the northern part of Península Valdés, you'll also find Estancia San Lorenzo. This is a traditional Patagonian sheep ranch that raises Australian merino sheep for wool production.

Depending on the time of year you visit, you can witness different activities related to sheep farming like marking, shearing, and herding with the help of dogs.

The old shearing barn at Estancia San Lorenzo has been turned into a rustic Patagonian-style restaurant, that also features a visitor centre and shop selling local products and souvenirs.

The estancia belongs to the Machinea family of Basque origin that arrived in Península Valdés in 1900.

Estancia San Lorenzo also happens to be home to the largest Magellanic penguin rookery in the world. Hundreds of thousands of penguins mate and nest along these shores.

Their waddling down to the beach will definitely put a smile on your face. It's a pretty epic spot!

Caleta Valdés

Caleta Valdés is located on the eastern shore of Península Valdés and is considered a 'geographic accident'.

The caleta is essentially a long and narrow body of water that has been naturally closed off by a strip of land, with only a small opening connecting it to the sea.

This is generally a good spot to see elephant seals and penguins, though in smaller numbers in comparison to Estancia San Lorenzo.

Punta Delgada

Another spot to visit on Península Valdés is Punta Delgada on the south end of the peninsula.

Punta Delgada is a beach with steep sandy cliffs and it witnesses a high concentration of elephant seals during mating and moulting season (this is when the seals shed their hair and the upper layer of their skin).

A good lunch option is the Punta Delgada Lighthouse, a former post office and military building turned sheep farm, countryside hotel and restaurant.

We ordered empanadas as a starter followed by a Patagonian lamb stew with carrots, onions, rice and parsley. A simple yet wonderful meal.

Things to do in Puerto Pirámides

Boat tour to See Wildlife

First and foremost, if you want to go on a boat tour during your visit to Península Valdés, you'll depart from Puerto Pirámides.

Depending on the time of year you visit, there will be different wildlife viewing opportunities.

We went out on a zodiac-style raft and got to see sea lions sunbathing on the cliffs, and countless sea birds – especially cormorants!

Whale-watching tours are typically from June to December. It’s worth mentioning that the law requires the operators to cut their engine within 100 metres of a whale and they are not permitted to chase them.

Hike the Cliffs

Puerto Pirámides is surrounded by cliffs that you can hike for epic views.

You can hike up for sunrise, or walk the trail at sea level where you are bound to spot a fossil or two!

Avenida de las Ballenas

Literally 'the Avenue of the Whales', this is the main road in Puerto Pirámides and it is lined with colourful buildings and plenty of street art.

You'll find breweries, cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. It's worth a stroll during your visit - just maybe not during siesta time when most places close.

Seafood at La Covacha

Our favourite restaurant in Puerto Pirámides was La Covacha, a laidback restaurant serving seafood and traditional Patagonian dishes.

I got their giant ravioli stuffed with shrimp in a buttery mussel sauce with calamari a la provencal - it was one of the best pasta dishes I had in Patagonia.

Where to stay in Puerto Pirámides

Océano Patagonia Wild Coast Residence - 3-star modern eco-hotel right on the beach

Del Nomade Hostería Ecológica - centrally located eco guest house located on the main road

Estancia San Lorenzo - not in Puerto Pirámides, but you can stay at the estancia we mentioned earlier!

Trelew

3 days

The next stop on this coastal Patagonia road trip is Trelew, a city known for dinosaurs, Welsh culture, and strange links to Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Things to do in Trelew

Egidio Feruglio Paleontological Museum

The Egidio Feruglio Paleontological Museum has over 30 dinosaurs on display and you can even see dinosaur eggs.

However, no dinosaur is more famous than the Patagotitan Mayorum – the largest dinosaur in the world!

This titanosaur was discovered in 2013 and measures more than 8 metres in height, 40 metres in length, and is estimated to have weighed around 74 tons.

Biggest Dinosaur Sculpture

Speaking of the Patagotitan Mayorum, on the outskirts of Trelew you can visit a massive sculpture of the biggest dinosaur in the world.

It is located directly across from the Trelew Airport about 6 kilometres north of town.

Hotel Touring Club

It may not look like much today but Hotel Touring Club was once considered one of Argentina’s most luxurious hotels. It was constructed in 1898 and remained the 'it' place hosting multiple presidents through the 1930s.

Some of the more famous guests known to have passed through include writer and aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry of The Little Prince.

And the hotel also welcomed Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and Etta Place - the infamous train and bank robbers from the days of the American Wild West. They settled in Patagonia and eventually bought a ranch in Cholila.

There's a cool bar in the hotel that's worth a visit. Order the picada for a tapas-style meal where you can sample a bit of everything!

Regional Museum Pueblo de Luis

If you want to learn about Trelew's history, you can visit the Regional Museum Pueblo de Luis.

The name says it all: 'Pueblo de Luis' is Spanish for 'Town of Lewis', or 'Trelew' in Welsh.

The museum is set in the former railway station which dates back to 1889 and has displays focusing on the Mapuches and the Tehuelches who lived in these lands, followed by the early exploration of the area between 1520 and 1865, and then the arrival of Welsh immigrants.

Here are a few more ideas of things to do in Trelew.

Where to stay in Trelew

Hotel Libertador – a centrally located 3-star hotel close to most attractions offering breakfast.

Apart Hotel Argenta – spacious self-catering apartment-style accommodations with a kitchen, living and dining area.

La Casa de Paula – bed and breakfast set in a residential neighbourhood with a familiar touch.

Day Trips from Trelew

Dolavon

Dolavon translates to ‘river meadow’ and is another Welsh community you can visit in Chubut.

This is a very small, sleepy town that can easily be visited in half a day.

Some of the highlights include walking along the canals, and visiting the old mill turned museum and restaurant.

Bosque Petrificado Florentino Ameghino

If you don’t mind a bit of a drive, you can visit the Florentino Ameghino Petrified Forest.

Here you’ll come face to face with petrified logs that were part of an extensive forest and were carried by rivers to the sea coast of that time.

The tree logs are estimated to date back 60 million years!

Rawson

Rawson was the first town founded by Welsh immigrants who sailed to Patagonia aboard the Mimosa in 1865.

The city sits next to the Chubut River not too far from where it meets the sea.

It's a popular dolphin and whale-watching destination depending on the time of year you visit.

Gaiman

2 days

The next stop on this coastal Patagonia travel itinerary is Gaiman! This is the place to visit if you want to experience a taste of Welsh culture in Patagonia.

Things to do in Gaiman

Welsh Afternoon Tea

The main thing to do in Gaiman is to enjoy Welsh afternoon tea in one of the town’s many tea houses.

Heads up, you'll want to skip lunch and go hungry because there will be a lot of food!

There are plenty of tea houses to choose from, however, the most famous of them all is Ty Te Caerdydd as it hosted Lady Diana during her visit to Argentina in 1995.

But whichever tea house you choose, you can expect to find a similar menu, including a slice of bara brith or ‘Welsh cake’.

Museums in Gaiman

There are several museums you can visit in Gaiman that explore Welsh culture and these include:

Regional History Museum - set in the old train station, this museum displays a variety of items that were brought over by the early Welsh settlers.

First House in Gaiman - this first house to be built of stone dates back to 1874 and belonged to David D. Roberts and his wife Jemima Jones, who became the first settlers of Gaiman.

Tehuelche-Mapuche Museum - formerly known as the Gaiman Anthropological Museum, this museum focuses on the Tehuelches and the Mapuches and their friendship with the Welsh settlers.

Quintas Narlú

This is a beautiful farm that welcomes visitors. Their shop sells homemade jams, freshly picked berries, Welsh bara brith cake, honey, dry lavender bundles, plus all sorts of souvenirs.

You can pick up some cake and berries like we did, and then enjoy a stroll through the apple orchard and have a picnic.

Central Chubut Railway Tunnel

One of Gaiman’s main tourist attractions is the old train tunnel that was part of the Central Chubut Railway. This railway operated between the valley of the Chubut River and the port city of Puerto Madryn.

It was in operation from 1888 until 1961 - making it the first railway in Patagonia! - and it helped cut down travel time since this journey was previously something that had to be done on horseback.

The tunnel is 282 metres in length and inside there are audiovisual displays that share the history of the railway in Spanish, English and Welsh.

Here are some ideas of things to do in Gaiman on a day trip. Though if you have the time, it's worth staying for a night!

Where to stay in Gaiman

Posada Los Mimbres – This is a 3-star hotel located 4 km from the historic district. It offers beautiful gardens, a swimming pool, free bicycles to get around, and a restaurant that serves home-cooked meals.

Hostería Gwesty Plas y Coed – This place offers private rooms in a Welsh-style house in the historic centre of Gaiman.

Comodoro Rivadavia

2 days

The final destination on our coastal Patagonia travel itinerary is Comodoro Rivadavia, but let me warn you, this isn't your typical tourist destination.

In fact, if you tell Argentines you're travelling here, they'll look at you perplexed and wild-eyed.

What could there possibly be to see or do in an oil town?

Well, if you enjoy travelling off the beaten path and experiencing regular everyday towns, this might be up your alley.

It is admittedly a bit of a drive from the other destinations we're covering (4 hours and 30 minutes from Trelew), so the choice is yours.

Things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia

National Petroleum Museum

The top attraction in Comodoro Rivadavia is the National Petroleum Museum. This is an oil town after all!

The museum is located in the General Mosconi neighbourhood about 3 kilometres north of the city centre on the very spot where they first struck oil.

This is a must-do activity in the city as it's a great way to learn about the city's origins. There is a guide on site who will share the history (yes, it's free!) and you're then free to wander around the museum on your own.

There is an outdoor component to the museum where you can view all the machinery that was used to drill for oil.

And then there's an indoor component that has a simulator depicting what it would be like if you could shrink down and travel to the bottom of an oil well. I’m sure it’s an experience meant for children, but it's a lot of fun at any age!

You can read our complete guide of things to do in Comodoro Rivadavia here.

Playa Costanera

Since Comodoro Rivadavia is a seaside city that means you can enjoy some beautiful coastal walks along the Costanera.

We did the walk along Playa Costanera starting from Plaza Soberanía. You go through a bit of an industrial shipping area where you can see some old abandoned boats covered in graffiti, and you eventually reach the beach.

There are also some seafood restaurants right by the beach. Our personal favourite was Cayo Coco del Mar. You can order their seafood platter if you want to sample a bit of everything.

Cerro Chenque

Cerro Chenque is a hill that rises 212 metres above sea level and offers great panoramic views of the city and the coastline facing south.

The name ‘chenque’ means cemetery or grave in the native Pehuenche language, since this was used as a burial ground.

It is possible to walk to the top, but it's a busy road with heavy traffic, so I would suggest asking a taxi to take you up.

Where to stay in Comodoro Rivadavia

Comodoro Hotel – 3-star hotel, centrally located with a lobby bar and buffet breakfast. This is where we stayed!

Lucania Palazzo Hotel – 4-star hotel featuring bright and spacious rooms, a piano bar, gym and sauna.

Austral Hotel – 4-star hotel with an in-house restaurant specializing in seafood dishes and regional cuisine.

Rada Tilly

2 days

The most popular day trip from Comodoro Rivadavia is to the neighbouring beach town of Rada Tilly.

Located just 13 kilometres from Comodoro Rivadavia, Rada Tilly is considered the weekend playground for those with oil money. The beachfront is lined with mansions - some that look like they were inspired by homes on Santorini!

If you're already going to be in Comodoro Rivadavia, it's worth adding Rada Tilly to your coastal Patagonia travel itinerary.

Beach and Wind Sports

Rada Tilly's beaches are super wide at low tide and there are also some pretty impressive cliffs at the far end of town.

The beach is also a popular destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and even land sailing – a sport where three-wheeled carts with a sail move using the force of wind.

Rada Tilly also has the distinction of being the southernmost beach resort on the South American continent, so that alone makes it worth a visit!

Where to stay in Rada Tilly

Posada Marina Bella - guesthouse located 4 blocks from the beach

Roots Backpackers - hostel option at the end of town close to the beach

Day trips from Rada Tilly

Punta Marqués

Just past Rada Tilly, you'll find Punta Marqués, which is another popular day trip from Comodoro Rivadavia.

This natural reserve is an opportunity for visitors to see the sea lions that live on the cliffs year-round, though you’ll find the highest concentration of them from October to December.

If you're up for a hike, Punta Marqués is a 6-kilometre walk from the south end of Rada Tilly. However, you can also pay for a taxi to the top and ask them to wait for you.

Coastal Patagonia Travel Itinerary Tips

Distances between certain towns can be hundreds of kilometres without much in sight. Fuel up when you get the opportunity.

Don't go off-roading if your vehicle can't handle it. This part of the world is pretty remote and you don't want to get stranded far away from any sign of civilization. Also, make sure your rental car has a spare tire.

Rental cars in Argentina are almost exclusively standard/manual transmission. Automatic cars are few and far between, and the rental price is typically 3x as much as that of a standard car.

You can travel this coastal Patagonia route by bus. The bus company Via TAC covers the complete route from Puerto Madryn to Comodoro Rivadavia.

That concludes our coastal Patagonia travel itinerary for anyone planning an overland trip.

Can you keep driving further south down coastal Patagonia?

Sure! However, the distances become much longer with few cities or towns in between.

Also, keep in mind that if you want to reach Ushuaia (also known as the southernmost city in the world!), you'll have to go through Chile and then there's a ferry crossing involved to reach the Tierra del Fuego province, which is an island.

Yes, you continue your coastal road trip to the ends of the Earth, it just takes a bit more effort. But if you're up for the adventure, upwards and onwards!


Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter: What to Do on Your First Trip to Cordoba

Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter is a great place to explore if it's your first time in the city. Filled with cathedrals, churches, cloisters and crypts, this part of Cordoba feels like a living museum where you'll immediately be transported several centuries back.

Cordoba is Argentina's second-largest city so it can be overwhelming trying to see and do everything on your first trip. However, the Jesuit Quarter offers a glimpse of the city's early beginnings and it's a great introduction for visitors who only have a couple of days in town.

But before we dive into everything there is to see and do in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter, we need to talk about how and why the Jesuits ended up in Argentina.

Exploring Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter in Argentina

History of the Jesuits in Argentina

The Jesuit Order was founded in 1540 by Ignatius de Loyola, a Spanish Catholic priest and theologian.

Also known as the Society of Jesus, this was a religious order whose goals included establishing highly disciplined schools and propagating Catholic beliefs through missionary work.

The Jesuits arrived in what is today Argentina in November 1585, and they settled in Córdoba by 1599 making it a hub for their work; namely, to educate and convert the local native population.

Starting in 1615, the Jesuits developed estancias to fund their work. There were six ranches or farms in the Province of Cordoba, which acted as agricultural and trade centres. Some of the estancias had sawmills, flour mills, vineyards, cattle, orchards, looms, kilns - anything that could produce an income to continue funding their work.

In this manner, the Jesuits gained great power, because even though they were not allowed to accumulate wealth for themselves, they managed to do so for the Order.

This power, along with their firm dedication to the pope in Rome, was a reason for concern for the Catholic monarchs.

The Jesuits' defence of the indigenous populations against abuses committed by Spanish colonizers was also seen as an impediment in establishing absolute monarchist rule.

That is why in 1767, the Jesuits were expelled from Spain and all of its colonies (including Argentina) following the decree by King Charles III of Spain.

The Jesuits had simply become too powerful and they were seen as a threat, and that is how the Jesuit chapter came to an end.

Tip: While you cannot stay overnight at the historic Jesuit Estancias of Córdoba, you can book a stay at one of the many tourist-friendly estancias in Córdoba set along the Sierras Grandes and Sierras Chicas.

Staying in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

Hotel Virreinato

So, where should you stay in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter?

It’s not often that we share the hotels we stay at, but this place was an experience in and of itself and it was a big part of why we enjoyed our time in the city.

We stayed at Virreinato Hotel Boutique; the name translates to 'viceroyalty' in Spanish, and the hotel is set in a historic home right in the heart of the Jesuit Quarter.

The building dates back to 1670 and the interior was decorated with elaborate furniture and lots of art and antiques; it was like stepping back in time.

Breakfast at Hotel Virreinato in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

The rooms at Hotel Virreinato in Cordoba

The hotel offers guided tours to all guests, and they also open their doors to visitors once a month. During this tour you can learn all about the building’s Jesuit history, and also about the owners who made this place what it is today, filling it with an impressive collection of art from across the globe.

Breakfast surrounded by antiques was a highlight of the trip!

Places to Visit in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

Society of Jesus Church in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

Jesuit Block

Let’s begin our Cordoba city tour where it all began, in the Jesuit Quarter.

The Jesuits arrived in Cordoba and established themselves around the year 1599, and during their time here, they really shaped the city’s landscape, specifically by building lots of churches!

Cordoba's Jesuit Block is made up of the National University of Córdoba, the National College of Our Lady of Montserrat, and the Jesuit Church and Residence.

These are places you can visit independently, or if you prefer exploring with a local, you can join a guided walking tour.

This half-day tour begins in Plaza San Martin which is surrounded by the Cathedral of Cordoba and the Old Town Hall in the city's historic centre.

The tour then covers other highlights in the Jesuit Quarter like the Church of the Company, the Rector of the University, and the National College of Monserrat, plus an optional visit to the Historical Museum.

Inside Cordoba Cathedral

Cordoba Cathedral

The Cathedral of Cordoba, also known as Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, is the oldest church in continuous service in Argentina.

It is also the oldest colonial building in the whole country that it still intact and functional.

Construction began in 1582 and the cathedral was consecrated in 1706, but it wasn't officially finished until 1787.

As you walk in through the massive wooden gates and enter the nave, your eyes are guided up to the the cathedral's impressive central barrel vault ceiling that's embellished with frescoes and lots of gold leaf. The soft lights make everything glow.

The style is Renaissance meets Spanish colonial baroque meets Neoclassical.

Cordoba Cathedral is a National Historic Monument and an invaluable part of Argentina's architectural heritage, plus it's so centrally located on the west end of Plaza San Martin that it's impossible to miss.

El Cabildo or old town hall in Cordoba, Argentina

El Cabildo

Right next to the cathedral, you have the Cabildo which was the colonial equivalent of a town hall.

Prior to the existence of the cabildo, the local government used to meet in members' private homes.

In 1588, construction of an adobe structure with a thatched roof began. This eventually gave way to a framed wood structure in 1610, and in 1786 the current structure was completed.

The only way to tour the whole building is as part of a guided tour that runs around 40 minutes.

The tourist information point is located in the Cabildo, so you can go in and inquire about the tour starting times.

University of Cordoba is the oldest university in Argentina

University of Cordoba

Cordoba is nicknamed 'la Docta' or 'the Wise' thanks to the number of universities spread across the city. (There are 8, in case you were wondering!)

The National University of Cordoba, or Universidad Nacional de Córdoba, is the oldest university in Argentina and the third oldest in the Americas.

The university was founded in 1613 and it remained the only university in the whole country for over two centuries.

Its precursor was the Collegium Maximum which was founded in 1610 by the Society of Jesus and was attended by the students of the order. So as you can see, there's a lot of history in this place!

We happened to walk past the university's law faculty during one of our strolls through the Jesuit Quarter and we caught a glimpse of the beautiful courtyard. We asked the security guard if we could walk in and apparently, it's open to the public, so we enjoyed a visit.

Plaza San Martin in Cordoba

Plaza San Martín

Another place to visit in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter is Plaza San Martín.

This is the central square and it pays homage to José de San Martín, who led South America's successful struggle for independence from the Spanish Empire.

He is known for liberating Argentina, as well as Chile along with O'Higgins and Peru with Bolívar. He is the most important Argentine founding father and this square is dedicated to his memory.

The plaza is lined with benches and palm trees offering shade, and it's a nice place to give your legs a break in between all the sightseeing.

Visiting the Jesuit Crypt in Cordoba

The Jesuit Crypt sits underneath Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

Jesuit Crypt

The ruins of this Jesuit Crypt sit underground beneath the modern-day streets of Cordoba.

This place was originally designed as a noviciate, which was later converted into a crypt and crematorium.

It was abandoned after the Jesuit expulsion, and the discovery of the crypt only took place when the national phone company began digging to extend its phone lines, and this is what they came across.

Access to the crypt is on either side of the pedestrian street Rivera Indarte, where it meets Avenida Colón.

The crypt regularly hosts music nights and art exhibits so that's something else you can ask about when you visit in person.

Society of Jesus Church in Cordoba

Society of Jesus Church

You're probably sensing a theme here; Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter is filled with cathedrals, crypts and churches - and we have another one for you!

Another church not to miss is the Society of Jesus Church, locally known as Iglesia Compañía de Jesús.

This church was built between 1640 and 1676, and it is shaped like a cross with a large dome where the nave intersects the transept.

It is dimly lit, but you can see paintings hanging on either side of the nave leading towards an impressive altar.

The courtyard in the Museum of Religious Art Juan de Tejeda

Museum of Religious Art Juan de Tejeda

Even if you’re not into religious art, I would recommend visiting the Museum of Religious Art Juan de Tejeda for the architecture alone.

This building dates back to colonial times when it was owned by Juan de Tejeda, a local dignitary and wealthy merchant who lived in this sought-after location directly across the cathedral.

In 1625, Tejeda donated his home in order to create a cloistered convent. This was done as an act of gratitude to Saint Teresa of Ávila after Tejeda's daughter had a miraculous recovery from a fatal disease.

The priory of the Carmelite Sisters started operating out of here in 1628.

The museum's exhibition rooms centre around a beautiful courtyard filled with orange and lemon trees, hydrangeas, and jasmines.

Inside, you can see various religious artefacts and sacred relics that come from the Cathedral’s treasury and the San José Monastery.

Where to Eat in Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter

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Solar de Tejeda

For traditional Argentine food, you can't miss out on Solar de Tejeda.

This restaurant is located in a historic building featuring a long gallery with arched doorways and high ceilings, and you can opt for indoor or al fresco dining.

For a taste of Argentina's BBQ, you can order from the 'Parrilla' section which features various cuts of steak, chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage). You can order the 'parrillada' if you'd like a selection of various cuts of meat.

We opted for one of their homemade pastas, ravioli in a four-cheese sauce; and locro, which is a traditional lentil stew from the northern part of the country.

For dessert, you can't go wrong with flan and a dollop of dulce de leche on top!

Address: 27 de Abril 23

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Marmol Siglo 17

Marmol Siglo 17 is a very cool building full of Jesuit history. What is a restaurant today was once a Jesuit dining hall.

We ate at this restaurant a couple of times over the course of our visit to Cordoba.

One evening we ordered the charcuterie board with deli meats, cheeses, pickled vegetables, leberwurst, bread and paired it with a bottle of red wine.

We then went back and tried their fancy salads. There's one that comes with avocado, leafy greens, grilled veggies, pickled onion, beetroot, sweet potatoes, and a mix of seeds.

But if you're looking to try some of their signature dishes, you can opt for the wild boar tomahawk steak, the fried four-cheese sorrentinos, or the mustard pork loin.

For dessert, their brownie with dulce de leche, merengue and fresh berries is divine!

Address: Duarte Quirós 175

La Compañia

The city can get pretty hot during the summer months and you'll likely want to find a cool shaded spot at some point during the course of the day; La Compañia is a nice option in the heart of Cordoba's Jesuit Quarter.

The cobbled courtyard features al fresco dining surrounded by lush vegetation, there's a water fountain offering a soothing melody, and most importantly it's cool and shaded.

We sat down and chugged down lemonades like two wanderers who'd reached an oasis in the desert, but they do have meal options as well.

Address: Caseros 88

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La Paila

Technically, La Paila isn't a restaurant, but it's the place to visit if you want to stock up on traditional Argentine sweets!

A few treats you won't want to miss include:

Conitos: little peaks of dulce de leche set atop a cookie base covered in a chocolate glaze

Nueces confitadas: walnuts coated in dulce de leche and covered in a sugar glaze

Alfajor cordobés de membrillo: two cookie layers filled with a quince jam filling and covered in a sugar glaze

They have so many different types of alfajores that we ordered a dozen and asked them to give us one of each: with dulce de leche and a chocolate glaze, Santafesino style, meringue alfajor, coconut with a chocolate base, with sugarcane, you name it!

Plus, they also sell jams! If you want to try a unique flavour, go for cayote, or chayote in English.

Address: Duarte Quirós 185

Jesuit Block and Estancias of Córdoba

While the Jesuit Block sits in the centre of Córdoba, that's only one piece of the Jesuit history puzzle. Scattered across the Province of Cordoba there were also Jesuit estancias that funded the missionary work carried out by the Society of Jesus.

These included:

Estancia of Alta Gracia

Estancia of Jesús María

Estancia of Santa Catalina

Estancia of Caroya

Estancia of La Candelaria

Estancia San Ignacio (only ruins)

The majority of these estancias now house museums and are open to visitors with the exception of Estancia San Ignacio where only ruins remain.

The Jesuit Block and the Estancias of Cordoba were declared part of the Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2000. They illustrate the unique religious, social, and economic experiment that was carried out for a period of over 150 years during the 17th and 18th centuries.

So, if you're interested in doing a more in-depth tour of Cordoba's Jesuit past, renting a car and road-tripping the province is a good way to do so!

Getting to Cordoba

As Argentina’s second-largest city, Cordoba is well-connected to the rest of the country and offers multiple flights, buses and even trains that connect it with other major cities.

If you’re flying into Cordoba, you’ll arrive at Ingeniero Aeronáutico Ambrosio L.V. Taravella International Airport, locally known as Pajas Blancas. This airport receives a handful of international flights from Europe and Latin America, plus flights from all over Argentina.

Terminal de Ómnibus de Córdoba is the bus terminal with two terminals where you can catch cross-country buses to almost every corner of the country, as well as regional buses to the Sierras and beyond.

There's also a train that runs twice a week from Buenos Aires to Cordoba if you prefer slow travel. It's a 21-hour journey aboard the Retiro-Córdoba line operated by Trenes Argentinos.

You can read our complete guide detailing how to get to Cordoba here.


Day Trip to Tafí del Valle & Quilmes Ruins in Tucumán, Northern Argentina

A day trip to Tafí del Valle and the Quilmes Ruins should be the first thing you add to your itinerary if you plan to visit the Province of Tucumán.

This is the most popular excursion you can do from the capital city of San Miguel de Tucumán and for good reason! Tucumán may be the smallest province in Argentina, but it is packed with culture, history and natural beauty.

On our tour of Tafí del Valle and the Quilmes Ruins we experienced a myriad of landscapes ranging from lush jungles to arid deserts, we visited mysterious monolithic stone carvings, we sampled regional deli meats and cheeses, we stood under the shade of an 800-year-old cactus, plus we explored some of the largest pre-Columbian ruins in all of South America!

It was a great introduction to what Tucumán had to offer, and now we're going to share what you can expect from this day trip.

How to visit Tafí del Valle & Quilmes Ruins

Seeing as Tucumán is the smallest province in Argentina, you can see quite a bit of it in one day!

For this particular route, you can either rent a car and drive yourself, hire a private driver for the day, or join a guided group tour.

We hired a driver since there were 3 of us, however, it was the same itinerary you would do with a tour.

This Tafí del Valle and Quilmes Ruins Tour covers everything we did that day. It's a 10-hour tour so don't make any other plans for the day!

Alternatively, this tour combines Tafí del Valle, Quilmes Ruins and Cafayate, which is a popular wine destination in Northern Argentina. This is a 12-hour tour, so a bit longer, however, you can opt to stay in Cafayate and continue your travels around Salta from there.

There is also a half-day tour to Tafí del Valle, however, it skips over the impressive Quilmes Ruins, so unless you're pressed for time, I'd suggest the former.

Monumento al Indio

The drive out of San Miguel de Tucumán goes up into the Yungas, the temperate slopes of the Andes Mountains where you get a rainy, humid, and warm climate.

The vegetation was lush, green and dense with low-hanging clouds - a completely different setting from the city we had just left behind.

The first stop of our tour was El Chasqui, which means 'messenger' in the Quechua language and refers to the messengers of the Inca Empire who would transport messages via relay runners.

Chasquis were selected from the fittest young males who were known to be the fastest runners, and they were responsible for transporting oral messages, gifts and quipu (a recording device consisting of knotted strings which carried encoded information).

This 6-metre tall monument pays homage to the indigenous peoples who called this valley home. Locals refer to the statue as Monumento al Indio or Monument to the Indian.

El Chasqui is a popular roadside stop where you get sweeping views of the valley, plus there's also a roadside market where you can grab a snack or pick up a few Argentine gifts and souvenirs (though this is only the beginning of your souvenir shopping opportunities).

Los Menhires

The next place we visited on our Tucumán tour was Los Menhires Archaeological Reserve.

The word 'menhir' refers to a human-made standing stone which can be found individually or in a cluster.

Los Menhires is home to a collection of 50 carved stones that were found scattered across the Tafí Valley, and were then moved to an archaeological reserve in the town of El Mollar.

These megaliths were created by the Tafí culture, and feature human faces, llamas, and symbols of fertility.

When these standing stones were in their original locations, the majority of them faced east towards the sun signifying their connection to Inti, the ancient Incan sun god.

However, this is a detail that was not respected when they were relocated to the archaeological park, so you'll notice they face in various directions, generally towards the centre of the park.

Tafí del Valle

Tafí del Valle is a popular destination for anyone travelling through the Province of Tucumán.

The town is located in the Tafí Valley which divides the Sierra del Aconquija to the south and the Cumbres Calchaquíes to the north.

The town is very walkable and it has an abundance of artisanal shops, so it's a great place to pick up some souvenirs; you'll find clay pots, hand-woven baskets, textiles and more.

The town is also known for its cheese festival, so we had to buy (and immediately try) some of their chimichurri cheese.

Chimichurri is a condiment typically served with meat and includes spices like finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, and oregano.

After purchasing our cheese, we went to a bakery for some fresh bread and then we sat on the sidewalk enjoying a midmorning snack. We even befriended a dog in the process!

We spent our time in Tafí del Valle browsing the shops on the main thoroughfare, however, you could opt to visit La Banda Jesuit Museum instead.

This former Jesuit Estancia is a National Historic Monument and it has been turned into a museum to preserve the architectural and cultural heritage of the area.

It houses artifacts belonging to the Tafí and Santa María cultures, paintings from the 18th century, as well as furniture and other Jesuit objects.

Mirador El Infiernillo

Mirador el Infiernillo translates to the 'lookout to hell'.

A bit of a dramatic name, but it is located at 3,042 metres above sea level, so maybe whoever named this place wasn’t feeling their best - hello, altitude sickness!

Mirador el Infiernillo is the highest traversable pass in the province of Tucumán, so we stopped to take photos.

There's a small roadside ranch on the side of the road where there may or may not be someone selling handicrafts that day (no set schedules around these parts!), and also urging you to take a photo with a llama.

Grandfather Cactus

The grandfather cactus is an 800-year-old cactus that sits in Cuesta De Los Cardones along Provincial Route 307.

Apparently, this type of cactus - known as a cardón in Spanish - only grows between 1-1.5 centimetres per year.

This one stands over 8 metres tall, so it's considered the grandfather of all the other cacti in the area.

The landscape is otherworldly - dry, arid and dotted with cardones as far as the eye can see.

Amaicha del Valle

The town of Amaicha del Valle marked our lunch stop of the day.

We ate at a restaurant called Warmy Sonkoy, on the side of the road, where we ordered humitas, tamales and empanadas - as you do when you're travelling in northern Argentina!

Their empanada trio was pretty tasty and featured a beef, chicken, and corn mozzarella empanada.

If you have a bit more time in Amaicha del Valle or you happen to be road-tripping and are on your own schedule, then make time to visit the Museo Pachamama.

This interpretation centre is the work of indigenous artist Héctor Cruz and it seeks to pay homage to Mother Earth.

Inside, the museum is divided into 4 sections highlighting geology, ethnology, tapestries and paintings.

There's also an outdoor component in the form of a sculpture park featuring stone sculptures of Pachamama, Mother Earth; Inti, the Sun God; and Quilla, the Moon Goddess.

Amaicha del Valle is also home to numerous artisan workshops where you can purchase handicrafts, it boasts a couple of vineyards should you be interested in a wine tasting (Bodega Artesanal Marcos Pastrana, Bodega Artesanal Felix Olivares, and Finca El Chañaral), and it's a sleepy destination if you're looking for a couple of days of rest and relaxation.

Quilmes Ruins

The Sacred City of Quilmes is located in the Calchaquí Valleys and it was once the site of the largest pre-Hispanic settlement in all of Argentina.

Dating back to 850 AD, this site occupied 30 hectares at the foot of Cerro Alto del Rey, and at its height, it was home to around 5,000 people.

The Quilmes were an indigenous tribe that settled in the western sub-Andean valleys of the Province of Tucumán in Northwestern Argentina.

They fiercely resisted the Inca invasions of the 15th century, and later resisted the Spaniards for 130 years before being defeated in 1667.

The Quilmes were then exiled by the Spaniards in a dramatic exodus where the remaining 2,000 survivors were forced to walk 1,200 kilometres across the country to Buenos Aires.

It is estimated that little over 400 Quilmes survived the harrowing journey and those who did later succumbed to diseases that were unknown to them.

When the Quilmes arrived in what is today the city of Quilmes just 35 kilometres south of Buenos Aires, they found a geography that was completely different from what they had known back in Tucumán.

Here, they were settled along the wetlands on the shores of the Río de la Plata, where their sacred algarrobo tree did not grow and that was their source of food, drink and firewood.

Furthermore, the medicinal herbs they knew in Tucumán did not grow in this foreign terrain, and that made it difficult for them to heal.

By 1810, the Quilmes Reserve was abandoned as a result of it having become a ghost town.

Today, there are only a few Quilmes left in Tucumán Province.

If you want to learn more about the history of the Quilmes it's worth hiring one of the local guides at the archaeological site and touring alongside them. You can also visit the museum Centro de Interpretación en la Ciudad Sagrada de Los Quilmes.

Back to San Miguel de Tucumán

After visiting the Ruins of Quilmes we began the drive back to San Miguel de Tucumán, a 3 hour and 15 minute journey.

We drove along a small stretch of Ruta Nacional 40 - the iconic highway that crosses the length of Argentina from north to south - and then back along Provincial Route 307, which was the same way we had come.

The drive back honestly didn't feel that long. We got to enjoy the ever-changing landscapes, plus we also dozed off a bit, and before we knew it we were back in the city.

That evening we enjoyed a nice stroll along Plaza Independencia, the central square which is flanked by ornate colonial buildings, before going out to dinner.

If you can spare half a day to explore San Miguel de Tucumán in between the various day trips the province has to offer, it's really worth doing so. The historic centre is quite beautiful!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAOs_p9Xn9Y


End of the World Train Ride in Ushuaia, Argentina

The Southern Fuegian Railway, better known as the End of the World Train, is a steam railway located in Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego province.

“Why would you need a train at the end of the world?” you ask. Well, Ushuaia was initially developed as a penal colony for repeat offenders with the first prisoners arriving in 1884.

After being sent to the very bottom of Patagonia at the end of the South American continent, the prisoners were put to work building their own prison, which meant transporting rock and timber from the nearby forests to the town, first using oxen-pulled wagons, and eventually this narrow gauge railway.

Back then, this was known as the Train of Prisoners, and the prisoners had to complete the journey twice a day to and from the logging camps.

Today, the Train at the End of the World has been developed into a heritage train and it’s considered the southernmost functioning railway in the world. It’s a must-do excursion in Ushuaia - even more so if you’re a train enthusiast!

Our Pick

End of the World Train Tour

This tour includes a ride on the End of the World train and a guided visit of Tierra del Fuego National Park. Transportation is provided there and back via minibus.

End of the World Train FAQs

How long is the End of the World Train ride?

The End of the World Train is a 50-minute journey and it travels the last 7 kilometres of the original prisoner's train route.

Where does the End of the World Train go?

The train runs from the End of the World train station to the Tierra del Fuego National Park train station.

The departure point is located 8 kilometres west of Ushuaia, so don't make the mistake of thinking you'll be departing from the city.

You need to make your way to the train station by shuttle bus or taxi, though if you've booked via a tour operator transportation is generally provided.

How soon should you book tickets for the End of the World Train?

Tickets aboard the train at the end of the world can get booked up several weeks in advance, especially if you're travelling during high season.

Don't wait to buy your tickets until the day before or the day of!

It is best to secure these tickets well in advance, as soon as you have confirmed your travel dates for Ushuaia.

Is admission to Tierra del Fuego National Park included on the End of the World Train?

The entrance to the national park is not included in the train ticket price and must be paid in cash on the day of the ride.

If you booked this through a tour operator, you'll want to check with them directly as to whether they've included the park fee.

What language is the End of the World Train audio guide in?

During your journey you'll be given headphones so you can learn about the history of Ushuaia, the train, and the role the prisoners played.

This audio guide is available in Spanish, English, Portuguese, French, Italian, German and Chinese.

Booking End of the World Train Tickets

You can book the End of the World train tickets on the official website: Tren del Fin del Mundo.

There are 3 train classes available: Tourist Class, Premium Class and VIP Class.

Keep in mind that with this option, you'll have to make your own way to and from the train station.

Booking a guided tour

Another option is to book a guided tour that includes the End of the World Train and Tierra del Fuego National Park. This particular tour includes transportation from select pick-up points (you'll need to check if your hotel in Ushuaia is one on the list or alternatively choose the pick-up point closest to you).

As part of this tour, you ride the train, visit the national park, stop at Bahia Ensenada Zaratiegui where you can send mail from the Post Office at the End of the World, you reach Bahia Lapataia which marks the end of the Panamerican Highway, and you also visit the Green Lagoon Viewpoint and Lago Roca.

If you don't feel too confident in your Spanish language skills or you just want an easy day, this is a good option.

Train Ride to the End of the World

So what exactly do you get to see when you're riding the train at the end of the world?

Well, here is a list of the attractions covered during the journey.

The End of the World Train Station

The train journey begins at the End of the World train station, which is located 8 kilometres west of the city of Ushuaia. The railway then travels along the Pico Valley in the Toro Gorge.

Burnt Bridge

Next, the train crosses Puente Quemado, which translates to 'Burnt Bridge'. It is named so because of the burnt remains of the old bridge which lie underneath the new tracks.

This part of the journey takes you across Cañadón del Toro or the 'Bull's Canyon' and over the Pipo River, which is formed by meltwater descending from the mountains and flowing to the Beagle Channel.

This is a very scenic part of the journey and we were even lucky enough to see horses grazing next to this pristine river.

La Macarena Waterfall Station

La Macarena Station is the only stop on this train journey. This is a historical point as it's where the prisoners used to stop to refill the water tanks for the steam locomotive La Coqueta.

Here passengers have the chance to disembark and hike up to a waterfall formed by meltwater, and there's also a viewpoint offering views of the Pipo River and some of the surrounding peaks.

This station is also where you can view the photos you took with the 'prisoners' before boarding the train, and if you'd like one as a souvenir, they'll print it for you.

Once it's time to board the train again, you hear a whistle calling passengers back to the train.

National Park Boundary

As you continue the train journey, you eventually come across a sign that announces the boundary of Tierra del Fuego National Park.

This is the only national park in Argentina that has maritime coasts, forests and mountains.

Tree Cemetery

Then, you reach the tree cemetery - a graveyard of trees that were cut by the prisoners who quite literally built their own prison and also supplied Ushuaia with firewood in the early days.

You'll notice that the tree stumps stand about half a meter from the ground - a sign that some of the logging was done in winter when the snow would have been packed pretty deep.

Of course, all this logging was done before the area was designated a national park, but it's part of the history of the place.

National Park Station

The final stop aboard the train at the end of the world is the National Park Station. This is where the train repositions to begin the journey back.

Travellers have the option of disembarking here - maybe you booked an excursion that includes a guided tour through Tierra del Fuego National Park, or maybe you want to spend the day hiking independently.

As mentioned earlier, do keep in mind that if you are travelling independently, you'll need to find your own way back into town - either by pre-arranging a shuttle, calling a taxi or hitchhiking.

Is the train journey worth it?

If you enjoy quirky train rides, then yes!

There are so many epic train journeys in Argentina - the Old Patagonian Express, the Train to the Clouds, the Tren Patagónico - and the Train at the End of the World is another one to add to the list.

Yes, this is a very short journey that only travels a total of 7 kilometres, but it has a very interesting history and it brings you to a beautiful place at the end of the South American continent.

That makes it worth it in our books.

Getting to Ushuaia is quite the undertaking, so you may as well enjoy the activities Tierra del Fuego has to offer!


Estancia Nibepo Aike: A Ranch Day Trip from El Calafate

Visiting an estancia is part of the Patagonian travel experience and one of the easiest day trips in El Calafate is to Estancia Nibepo Aike!

I have made it my mission to visit as many estancias as possible across Argentina and especially across Patagonia, so I couldn't miss out on a visito to Estancia Nibepo Aike, one of the more famous working ranches in the outskirts of El Calafate.

Estancia Nibepo Aike is open to day visitors and overnight guests. I visited the estancia on a day trip and got to watch the gauchos herd sheep, attend a sheep shearing demonstration, hike in the property which is set in Los Glaciares National Park, marvel at the milky blue waters of Lago Argentino, and enjoy a feast of an asado!

I'll be the first to admit that staying overnight at an estancia is always more fun as you get to relax, unwind and experience rural life. However, if you're pressed for time, a day trip is a great alternative.

Spending the day at Estancia Nibepo Aike was a change of pace from El Calafate and I really enjoyed, so I'm going to share my experience with you to help you decide if a day at this Patagonian ranch is right for you!

Our Pick

Nibepo Aike Ranch Day

Spend a full or half-day in Estancia Nibepo Aike in Los Glaciares National Park and experience Patagonian rural life on this day tour from El Calafate.

Getting to Estancia Nibepo Aike

There are a few different ways to get to Estancia Nibepo Aike, but one thing is for sure, it's going to be a bumpy ride! You have to travel down dirt roads most of the way and these roads are often in rough condition, so get ready to experience the washboard effect.

If you're planning to stay overnight at Estancia Nibepo Aike and you've rented a car in El Calafate, then you can make your own way there travelling down Provincial Route 15. If you're planning to spend the night but you don't want to drive, you can arrange transportation in advance through the estancia.

Alternatively, if you're visiting for the day, you can join either a half-day or full-day estancia excursion, which includes transportation to and from El Calafate by minivan. This was how we travelled and we really enjoyed the scenery along the way - if you're lucky you might even see guanacos!

The journey from El Calafate to Estancia Nibepo Aike is 55 kilometres, which isn't a lot, but it takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes given the road conditions.

History of Estancia Nibepo Aike

The story of Estancia Nibepo Aike begins at the turn of the 20th century, when Santiago Peso, a Croatian immigrant arrived and settled in the lands along the southern arm of Argentino Lake. It would still be a few years before this area became what is today Los Glaciares National Park.

Santiago settled around 20,000 hectares together with some partners and founded what was then known as Estancia La Jerónima. Here he began raising sheep and cattle.

In 1924, during a trip to the city of Río Gallegos, Santiago met María Martinic, a young woman from his homeland, Croatia, whom he married the following year.

Together, they had four children: Adolfo, who sadly passed away a year and a half later; Radoslava, nicknamed Niní; Ángela, nicknamed Bebe; and María, nicknamed Porota.

After Santiago fell ill with tuberculosis and eventually passed away, his wife decided to rename the estancia in honour of their 3 daughters.

The name Nibepo Aike came to be by taking the first letters of the girls' nicknames which were Niní, Bebe and Porota to form 'Nibepo' and adding the Tehuelche word 'Aike' which means 'Place of'.

Visiting Estancia Nibepo Aike

When it comes to visiting Estancia Nibepo Aike on a day trip from El Calafate, you have two options: a full-day tour or a half-day tour. Full-day tours obviously depart in the mornings, and half-day tours often depart both in the mornings and afternoons (depending on the time of year and demand).

If you visit the estancia on a full-day tour, you'll arrive in time for a country breakfast. You'll then attend a sheep shearing demonstration. That will be followed by a traditional barbecue lunch, known as an asado around these parts, accompanied by red wine. Finally, in the afternoon, you'll go on a 3-hour horseback ride through Los Glaciares National Park.

If you visit on a half-day tour, you'll enjoy a similar itinerary but with a shorter horseback ride of 1 hour. Honestly, if you're not an experienced horseback rider, 1 hour is plenty! At least that's how my knees feel.

And if you don't want to horseback ride, you can enjoy the trails at the estancia - walk down to the shores of Lago Argentino to see the icy blue waters or walk up the hill for panoramic views.

My Ranch Experience at the Estancia

We did the afternoon tour and arrived just in time for merienda, which is the equivalent of afternoon tea. There was a table set up with tea, coffee, and an array of cakes, pastries and a salty fried dough known as torta frita.

Once we were well-fed, we headed out with our guide to explore the estancia. There was an option to go horseback riding, but we opted to do a hike. (We had done a lot of horseback riding in Argentina at this point!)

During our hike, we got to see a giant hare, stroll the shores of Lago Argentino which has milky blue waters, and try calafate berries. Local lore says that if you eat these berries you'll come back to Patagonia so eat up! The berries weren't quite ripe yet, but that didn't stop us from having some to aid our return.

Then we all gathered to watch the esquila which is the sheep shearing demonstration. I was impressed by the skill of the gauchos who do this work. They were so gentle with the sheep and you could see that the animal was relaxed during the process.

Lastly, it was time for dinner. We enjoyed a traditional Patagonian lamb barbecue, plus chorizo, salad and bread rolls.

The food portions were abundant! They came around offering us various cuts of meat multiple times until we had to decline because we just couldn't eat anymore.

We were also given our own bottle of wine to share (between myself and my husband).

And when we thought we were done, it was time for dessert! We managed to find a little bit of room to enjoy flan with dulce de leche.

We then had some free time after dinner to walk around the estancia, snap some photos, and befriend a few of the working ranch dogs. It was a great way to end the day!

If I had to come up with one point of criticism it would be that once we arrived at the estancia, our small group got combined with another large group of visitors.

This large group of international visitors was teetering a fine line between tipsy and drunk by the time they reached the estancia. It certainly didn't help that after having wine for lunch, they pulled out bottles of vodka from their backpacks. Let's just say it was a bit rowdy...

Now, this isn't a point of criticism for the estancia or the tour operators, because what can they really do about a large group of adults misbehaving?

I think this was just an isolated incident that coincided with the day of our visit, but I wanted to be honest about our experience. Aside from that, it was a great day and I would recommend this day trip to anyone travelling in El Calafate.

Other excursions at Estancia Nibepo Aike

So far we've talked about the classic day trip to Estancia Nibepo Aike, however, there are a few other options to consider.

Horseback riding to Hidden Glaciers: This is a 5-day / 4-night or 4-day / 3-night excursion on horseback with the first night at the lodge before continuing to an outpost.

Navigation to the Glaciers: From the ranch, you can embark on two navigations to explore different corners of Los Glaciares National Park.

Los Baguales Trekking: This is a 3-day / 2-night excursion with an overnight stay in a ranch post where you can enjoy a rugged Patagonian experience and visit some epic lakes and glaciers.

These three excursions are currently operated by Glaciar Sur Aventura.

Spending the night at Estancia Nibepo Aike

If you want to stay the night, I would recommend booking your stay at The Lodge in Estancia Nibepo Aike for the end of your visit to El Calafate.

Stay in El Calafate at the start of your trip so you can do all the sightseeing around Los Glaciares National Park, see the Perito Moreno Glacier, go on a glacier trek or glacier boat tour, do your souvenir shopping in town and get it all out of your system, because once you arrive at the estancia, you won't want to leave!

Also, given how remote the estancia is, you won't want to be travelling back and forth from El Calafate for different tours and activities. You're coming to Estancia Nibepo Aike to disconnect, enjoy nature, go horseback riding, and learn about life on a working ranch.

I would suggest giving yourself at least 2 days at the estancia with zero plans to go elsewhere.

The lodge itself has 10 rooms and offers full room and board for guests. That means breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, so you'll be well-fed.

Keep in mind that the estancia welcomes visitors seasonally from mid-September to mid-May.

You can visit Estancia Nibepo Aike's official website for information on how to book your stay.

If you're looking for more unique stays in Patagonia, check out this list of glamping domes - there's a really cool property just outside El Calafate!

And if you're heading back to Buenos Aires to catch your flight home, check out this list of beautiful estancias and fun glamping sites in the city outskirts - the perfect way to end your trip in Argentina!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiQzfQD1f48


Estancias in El Calafate: 5 Luxury Lodges and Working Ranches!

Want to experience estancias in El Calafate? Here's a list ranging from luxury lodges to working ranches where you can spend the night!

I always say that for a true taste of Patagonia, you need to experience at least one estancia, and if you're travelling to El Calafate, you've got several to choose from!

"What is an estancia?" you might ask.

In Argentina, an estancia is a vast tract of private land used for farming or rearing sheep and cattle. These estancias can be found across the country and they range from working ranches that welcome guests to more luxurious lodges that have switched their focus to tourism. This makes them a fun alternative to staying in hotels.

One of the benefits of staying at one of the many estancias in El Calafate is that you'll get to enjoy some of the best scenery in all of Patagonia.

Many of the estancias in the area are located within the boundaries of Los Glaciares National Park since they predate the park's existence, and even the ones that are outside the park limits have privileged views of lakes, mountains or the steppe.

We've selected 5 of the best El Calafate estancias and they each offer something a little bit different. But one thing is for sure, whichever you choose, you'll get to experience a glimpse of rural Patagonia and the gaucho way of life!

Estancias in El Calafate

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1. EOLO - Patagonia's Spirit

EOLO is a luxury estancia and Relais & Chateaux property located halfway between El Calafate and Los Glaciares National Park. It sits on 10,000 acres of land, which adds to the feeling of seclusion in the enormity of Patagonia.

Eolo is the Spanish name for Aeolus, the Greek god of wind, which is a very apt name for this windswept property in the middle of the Patagonian steppe.

EOLO offers a boutique experience with only 17 rooms. Guests can choose between the Superior Rooms, which offer views of the lake, steppe, or mountains; the Superior Rooms, which are larger and have a second window with views of the gardens; and the Corner Rooms, which are the highest category.

There are no televisions in the rooms since the goal is for guests to connect with the natural environment and fellow guests. However, there is WiFi access covering all hotel areas free of charge.

While EOLO does not have a spa, it does have a dry sauna, steam sauna, outdoor jacuzzi and massage room.

The estancia has its very own on-site restaurant where guests can enjoy 4 meals per day: breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. The restaurant is headed by chef Juan Pablo Bonaveri, who combines the flavours brought over by European immigrants with native Patagonian culinary traditions.

With so much land to explore, guests can enjoy a variety of activities at the estancia like horseback rides, mountain biking or hikes to Cerro Frias or Laguna de los Flamencos, which are included with your stay.

Of course, Los Glaciares National Park is right there waiting to be explored! Additional activities can be booked like boat tours to the glaciers, ice trekking, and kayaking, or you can explore the boardwalks around Perito Moreno Glacier.

EOLO is a seasonal property that's only open from early October to the end of April. That means you can experience spring, summer and autumn, but it closes during the winter months, given the extreme weather and its remote location.

"Seemless perfection. From booking to pick up, ease of planning and organizing our excursions, Eolo exceeded my expectations. Hotel location high on hill with sweeping views of beautiful surrounding plains, mountains, and spectacular Lago Argentino. 5* dining, incredibly helpful and willing staff, only 17 rooms--very well done! Even the weather cooperated." - Linda from USA

✨ Stay at Eolo - Patagonia's Spirit. ✨

Address: Ruta 11 Km 23, El Calafate, Santa Cruz

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2. Estancia Cristina

Estancia Cristina is a remote estancia located inside Los Glaciares National Park and getting there is quite the adventure!

The journey begins by flying into El Calafate, the closest town to the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and the gateway to the park.

This is followed by a 45-kilometre overland transfer to Puerto Punta Bandera, where you board a boat for a 2 to 3-hour navigation across Lago Argentino that will bring you to Estancia Cristina.

Given its location, Estancia Cristina is the only property that has a land-based lookout point to the Upsala Glacier, the Mariano Moreno Mountain Range and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

The estancia has 20 rooms spread out across 5 casas or houses surrounding the main lodge. The houses are named Mountain, Steppe, Forest, River and Family.

The main lodge, Octógono, is octagonal-shaped and houses the restaurant and gathering place where guests can relax or mingle.

Several activities are included in the stay rate, like an expedition to the Upsala Glacier, plus numerous guided hikes that lead to waterfalls, lagoons and glaciers (all varying in length and level of difficulty).

Estancia Cristina offers a full board program where all meals and non-alcoholic beverages are included.

Considering its remote location, there is no cell phone signal or Wi-Fi service at Estancia Cristina. You are coming here to truly disconnect and be at one with raw, untamed nature.

Estancia Cristina is open from October 1st to April 30th and then closes for the season from May 1st to September 30th.

Note: Estancia Cristina offers a day visitors program known as Wild Visits featuring 4 different itineraries focused on trekking, horseback riding, Upsala Glacier or a classic adventure. You can contact them here for more information.

"The staff, the facilities and the location, it was just perfection. We felt welcomed from the very moment we set foot on the boat where we had the whole floor to ourselves and were offered coffee/tea and medialunas. The journey there was simply magnificent, and so were the views from the estancia. Our room was gorgeous with beautiful authentic decor and a spacious, elegant bathroom. We loved in particular the attention to simplicity and sustainability. We took part in three activities: two hikes and one horseback ride. All of them were very well organised and with professional and friendly staff who were very knowledgeable about the area and its history. It was an amazing experience and we couldn't recommend it enough." - Elena from Hungary

✨ Stay at Estancia Cristina. ✨

Address: Lago Argentino, El Calafate, Santa Cruz

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3. Estancia Nibepo Aike

Estancia Nibepo Aike is another famous estancia on the outskirts of El Calafate and it is beautifully situated in Los Glaciares National Park.

This estancia was started at the turn of the 20th century by Santiago Peso, a Croatian immigrant. He settled some 20,000 hectares together with his partners and began raising sheep and cattle.

Back then, this place was known as Estancia La Jerónima. However, the estancia was later renamed Nibepo Aike in honour of the founder's daughters. 'Nibepo' comes from taking the first letters of the girls’ nicknames - Niní, Bebe and Porota - and ‘Aike’ is the Tehuelche word meaning ‘Place of’.

Nibepo Aike has a total of 10 rooms, of which 8 are standard and 2 are superior. These can be set up as twin, double or triple rooms.

The estancia offers a full board experience, which in Argentina means 4 meals per day: breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. You won't go hungry!

The cuisine features typical Patagonian food, which includes stews, casseroles, meats and pastas.

Some of the activities guests can enjoy during the estancia stay include horseback rides ranging from 1 to 3 hours, guided tours, rural work demonstrations, hiking trails, and the use of bicycles.

While guests can opt for a classic stay at the estancia, there are also some more adventurous itineraries. These include overnight horse treks to visit hidden glaciers, which involve camping at outposts along the way.

Note: This estancia welcomes day visitors for a Día de Campo, which includes a tour of the estancia, a sheep shearing demonstration, optional horse riding, and an Argentine BBQ. You can read more about our day trip to Estancia Nibepo Aike here.

"Beautiful property, very isolated and nestled among magnificent mountains and hills with access to a couple lakes. The guests house was very cute and rustic with a common fireplace and dining room, but very comfortable. The staff were friendly and accommodating. It was chilly at night so bring warm clothing (we were there in April - their autumn). When you wake up in the morning and go outside, you can hear the quiet, it is so peaceful; and if you go outside at night you can see incredible stars (hopefully it’s not cloudy!). Nice food and amazing activities too. We did a lot of horseback riding to beautiful places and the estancia tour was very interesting." - Claire from USA

✨ Stay at Nibepo Aike. ✨

Address: Ruta Provincial 15, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, El Calafate, Santa Cruz

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4. Helsingfors Lodge

Helsingfors Lodge is another remote estancia set within the boundaries of Los Glaciares National Park, halfway between El Calafate and El Chalten. It sits on the shores of Lago Viedma, a lake formed from melting glacial ice.

The estancia was started by Alfred Ranström, a Finnish immigrant who settled here in the early 20th century and named the place after his homeland's capital city: Helsingfors is Helsinki in Swedish.

Helsingfors Lodge offers a boutique experience with a total of 9 rooms, each with their own private bathroom - some featuring whirlpool baths and others featuring Scottish showers.

Staying at Helsingfors Lodge also offers the opportunity to disconnect from it all. There are no televisions in the rooms, there is no mobile signal on the property, and WiFi access is only available in the lobby area. But who needs any of that to pass the time when you have untamed nature at your doorstep?

As far as activities go, your stay at this estancia is all about enjoying nature and the outdoors. That means horse trekking and hiking to places like the Blue Lagoon, Mirador del Condor, Laguna del Morro, and neighbouring Estancia Los Hermanos.

After such active days outdoors, you'll no doubt be hungry! The estancia's restaurant focuses on regional Patagonian cuisine featuring typical dishes like trout and lamb, not to mention the outdoor barbecues locally known as asado, which are prepared by the chef.

Like with most remote estancias in El Calafate, this is a seasonal property which is open from November through April.

"If you are thinking of booking Hosteria Helsingfors, DO IT!!!!!!!! We had THE most incredible stay here. It is expensive but considering how remote it is and that all food and excursions (and transfers if you arrive/ leave on the correct day)are included, actually very fair. It is in the most incredibly beautiful, remote surroundings. The hotel is warm and cozy. We arrived in the rain and spent a wonderful first afternoon sitting by the fire. Our next two days consisted of amazing walks led by Justina - a fabulous guide. The food was some of the best we had in Argentina and beds some of the most comfortable we have stayed in. We got engaged here and the staff opened a bottle of champagne in our honour - really unexpected and kind. We just wished we had stayed longer. I would definitely recommend arranging dates so you are picked up/ Dropped back on the days the hotel offer or that you hire a car. If you do, make sure it is 4wd as the roads are hairy!! Probably the best hotel we stayed at!!!" - Rosie from United Kingdom

✨ Stay at Estancia Helsingfors. ✨

Address: Lago Viedma, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, El Chalten, Santa Cruz

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5. Estancia El Galpón del Glaciar

El Galpón del Glacier is a guesthouse located some 20 kilometres west of El Calafate on the shores of Lago Argentino. It was formerly known as Estancia Alice, a working ranch focused on wool production, dating back to 1912.

Today, this country guesthouse welcomes guests from around the world. It has 16 rooms (double and triple) offering views of Lago Argentino and the Andes Mountain Range.

While most estancias in El Calafate are quite remote, this particular guesthouse is just a 20-minute drive from town, meaning you can enjoy the many things to do in El Calafate but also get the relaxing estancia experience.

Guests at El Galpón del Glaciar can enjoy birdwatching at Laguna de los Pájaros, a nature reserve that receives over 30 species of birds.

Horseback riding is another way to soak in the wild, rugged scenery and the staff can help organize rides based on your level of riding experience.

In addition, the estancia offers sheep herding demonstrations with working Kelpie dogs who are true professionals at their task. They also do shearing demonstrations in the shed where you can learn more about the history of wool production in Patagonia.

El Galpón del Glaciar is a seasonal estancia that is open from October to April.

Note: If you're interested in visiting for the day, El Galpón del Glaciar offers a Día de Campo which includes a guided visit of the estancia, a sheep shearing demonstration and a traditional Argentine barbecue of Patagonian lamb. You can contact them here.

"Wonderful place that has kept its legacy and authenticity. One of the few estancias where the Argentinian countryside means home. Astonishing view on the lake, great staff and service. Beautiful horse-ride on the lake side welcomed by the local wildlife. Would recommend without hesitation." - Thibault from France

✨ Stay at Estancia El Galpón del Glaciar. ✨

Address: Ruta Provincial 11 22, El Calafate, Santa Cruz

Estancias in El Calafate: What to Know

Most estancias are outside El Calafate.

Since most El Calafate estancias are current or former working ranches, they are mostly located outside of town.

This means you should be prepared for a long journey down dirt roads. I mean, reaching certain estancias even involves a boat ride!

This is something to think about when considering where to stay in El Calafate, since the estancia experience tends to be remote, though the reward is that you can be surrounded by raw, rugged nature.

Some estancias are inside the national park.

Because most estancias in El Calafate predate the formation of Los Glaciares National Park, today, some of the historic estancias are located within the park boundaries.

What this means for the estancia owners is that the property can only be inherited but not sold, and once there are no heirs the land reverts to the National Park Service.

For you the guest, it simply means you are privy to unspoiled nature!

Staying at an estancia can be pricey.

There's no denying it, staying at an estancia comes with a certain price tag, especially if you're opting for the luxury estancias.

So why are estancias so expensive?

First, you have to consider their remote location; the long distances mean that everything has to be brought in and staff need to be housed on-site!

Also, keep in mind that the cost of your stay often includes the transfer from El Calafate to the estancia, full room and board, and guided activities to keep you entertained for the duration of your stay.

Estancia stays are a great way to disconnect.

As you've been reading through these estancia descriptions trying to choose which one is right for you, you may have noticed that many force you to disconnect simply because of their geographic location!

That's right. Some estancias have no WiFi connection, no mobile signal, and no TVs in the room!

The focus is on admiring the panoramic views, enjoying outdoor activities and connecting with fellow guests.

A few estancias welcome day visitors.

An overnight stay is the best way to get the full estancia experience, however, if your budget doesn't quite extend that far, some estancias near El Calafate let you visit for the day.

You'll typically see these day trips advertised as a Día de Campo which translates to a 'Countryside Day'.

The itinerary usually includes a guided visit of the estancia, a sheep shearing demonstration (if it happens to be a working sheep ranch), perhaps a hike or a horse trek, and the visit generally ends with a traditional Argentine BBQ.

Stay at an estancia at the end of your trip.

I know I keep repeating myself, telling you that most of these estancias are very remote, but that brings me to my next piece of advice: save your estancia stay for the end of your visit!

There are so many things to do in El Calafate, not to mention all the excursions to see the glaciers, and it's better to be centrally located to make the most of these activities and travel places.

So stay in El Calafate for a few days, and then tack on at least 2 days at an estancia as a way to unwind. You won't want to leave the estancia once you get there, so it's the best way to end your trip to Patagonia!

And if you can't get enough of the estancia experience, consider doing another estancia stay in Cordoba's Sierras or an estancia stay in Buenos Aires just before flying back home - there are lots of beautiful properties quite close to the airport!

Lastly, consider glamping in Patagonia.

This blog post has been strictly focused on estancias in El Calafate, however, if you're looking for unique accommodations, you can also consider glamping.

There are plenty of luxury domes near El Calafate and El Chalten, which also make for a memorable experience.

Or you can consider glamping just outside Buenos Aires at the end of your trip.


Gaiman: Visiting a Welsh Town in Patagonia & Where to Find Afternoon Tea!

Did you know you can visit a Welsh town in Patagonia?

Set along the shores of the Chubut River in the Province of Chubut, you’ll find the town of Gaiman.

The town was founded by David D. Roberts in 1874 and like much of the Lower Chubut Valley, it was settled by Welsh immigrants.

Y Wladfa refers to the establishment of settlements by Welsh immigrants in Patagonia, however, in many ways, Gaiman is considered the heart of the Welsh colony in Patagonia.

Yes, you have the communities of Rawson, Trelew, Dolavon, Las Plumas, Paso de Indios and Trevelin as you cross the province from the Atlantic to the Andes. However, nowhere is Welsh culture better preserved than in Gaiman!

In fact, to this day, Gaiman celebrates the Eisteddfod, a Welsh festival where locals compete in poetry, music, dance, drama and art - in both Welsh and Spanish.

In this blog post, we're going to talk about the history of Welsh immigration to Argentina, plus we'll share some things to do in Gaiman, and info on where to find Welsh afternoon tea during your visit.

If you're planning to travel coastal Patagonia, this is one destination you won't want to miss!

History of a Welsh Town in Patagonia

So, how did Patagonia become home to a thriving Welsh community?

The Welsh settlement in Argentina is a unique and interesting chapter in history, beginning in the 19th century. The primary motivation for Welsh people to emigrate to Argentina was to preserve their language and culture, amidst fears that these were being eroded under English influence in Wales.

The idea of a Welsh colony in Patagonia was put forward by Michael D. Jones, a Welsh nationalist non-conformist preacher. He envisioned the creation of a Welsh utopia and called for a "Little Wales beyond Wales".

Lewis Jones was instrumental in organizing the migration and was one of the key figures in negotiating terms with the Argentine government. He played a significant role in choosing Patagonia as the destination for the Welsh settlement.

Towards the end of 1862, Lewis Jones (who Trelew is named after) and Captain Love Jones-Parry left for Patagonia to see if it was a suitable area for Welsh emigrants. They arrived in Buenos Aires where they held discussions with the Interior Minister Guillermo Rawson and having come to an agreement they continued south to Patagonia. On their return to Wales, they announced the area to be very suitable for colonization.

And that is how in 1865, a ship known as the Mimosa landed on Patagonia's shores (in what is now known as Puerto Madryn) carrying the first Welsh emigrants to South America.

It was July 28, so the middle of winter in Argentina, and the new arrivals found themselves in a climate that was completely different from what they'd known back home. Gone were the lush green fields of Wales; here they were met with the arid landscapes of the Patagonian steppe.

What would cause people to cross an ocean and start a new life somewhere so unknown?

At the time, the Welsh were experiencing persecution under the British Empire. Their language, culture, religion and way of life were being threatened, and as life grew more difficult, the idea of forming a Wales beyond Wales began to take form.

The first Welsh settlements formed along the coast, first in caves, and then slowly moved inland into the valley. The Welsh survived those early years thanks to the help of the Tehuelche people who taught them how to hunt and endure in this new climate.

Over time, the Welsh settlers moved westwards across the Province of Chubut, settling the valley along the Lower Chubut River and venturing as far as Esquel and Trevelin at the foot of the Andes Mountains.

John Daniel Evans was another notable figure who arrived in Argentina in the early years of the settlement. He is best known for his exploration and development efforts in the region and he was a central figure in mapping areas and expanding the territory of the Welsh settlement.

And that's why today there are so many Welsh towns in Patagonia. This is just a very brief overview of Welsh immigration to Argentina, but I would recommend this article if you're interested in the history of Welsh Patagonia.

How to get to Gaiman

The easiest way to visit Gaiman is by renting a car and driving into town at your leisure. It’s a 15-minute drive from Trelew, or a 1-hour ride if you’re coming from Puerto Madryn.

Alternatively, you can catch a bus from the Trelew Bus Terminal. There are two possible routes, one that takes the highway and another that takes a parallel country road. Either way, you can expect the journey to Gaiman to take anywhere between 20-45 minutes, depending on the route and the number of stops the bus makes!

From Puerto Madryn, the bus takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

If you'd rather join a guided tour to Gaiman that's another option. This Welsh colonies tour departs from Puerto Madryn and includes a stop in Trelew.

Welsh Tea Houses in Gaiman

The main thing to do in Gaiman is to visit one of the town's many tea houses for Welsh afternoon tea. My suggestion is to skip lunch and go hungry because there will be a lot of food!

List of tea houses in Gaiman:

Ty Te Caerdydd

Ty Gwyn

Plas y Coed

Te House Gaiman

Ty Cymraeg

Casa de Té Nain Glenys

The most famous tea house is Ty Te Caerdydd as it hosted Lady Diana during her visit to Argentina in 1995. That being said, you can expect a similar menu at all these tea houses, including Bara brith known as torta galesa in Spanish or 'Welsh cake' in Patagonia.

Things to do in Gaiman

There are lots of things to do in Gaiman, ranging from visiting orchards and tea houses to historic homes and museums! In fact, if you want to learn more about the history of this Welsh town in Patagonia, you won't want to miss the numerous museums sprinkled across town.

Quintas Narlú

My favourite place to visit in Gaiman was actually on the outskirts of town, so I’ll start there.

Quintas Narlú is a beautiful farm that welcomes visitors. We first walked into their shop, which features all sorts of homemade jams, freshly picked berries, Welsh Bara brith cake, honey, dry lavender bundles, plus all sorts of Argentine souvenirs.

We purchased some cake and berries and then the owner told us we could also have a look around the farm, so we ended up having a picnic in the apple orchard.

It’s a beautiful spot where you’re surrounded by nature. Well worth the visit if you’re spending the day in Gaiman!

Central Chubut Railway Tunnel

One of Gaiman’s main tourist attractions is the old train tunnel that was part of the Central Chubut Railway. The railway operated between the valley of the Chubut River and the port city of Puerto Madryn. It was in operation from 1888 (making it the first railway in Patagonia!) to 1961. It also helped cut down travel time since this journey was previously something that had to be done on horseback.

The train tunnel was built to extend the train tracks from Gaiman to Dolavon while bypassing the centre of town.

The curved tunnel is 282 metres in length and it is one of the last remnants of the railway. Inside the tunnel, you’ll find audiovisual displays that share the history of the railway in Spanish, English and Welsh.

I’m going to be honest, as a woman, I probably wouldn’t venture into this tunnel on my own. It’s one way in and the same way out, and it’s not well illuminated at all - there were sections where I had to use the flashlight on my phone to see where I was even stepping. Because the tunnel is curved, you also can’t see what’s at the end or if there’s anyone there, so maybe go in with another person or a group.

Regional History Museum

Another place to visit in Gaiman for those wanting to learn a little bit more about the town’s origins is the Regional History Museum, also known as the Museo Histórico Regional de Gaiman. Just be sure to check the schedule before visiting since at the time of writing this, the museum only opens one day a week!

The Regional History Museum is set in the former train station and it displays a variety of items that were brought over by the early Welsh settlers.

There are rooms with furniture and crockery, others with farming equipment, and another section that focuses on the Eisteddfod - a Welsh cultural festival with a strong focus on singing, reciting poetry and dancing.

Gaiman holds the Eisteddfod in September and the competitions are in both Spanish and Welsh.

Tehuelche-Mapuche Museum

The Tehuelche-Mapuche Museum, formerly known as the Gaiman Anthropological Museum, is set in one of the first two-story buildings in Gaiman, which dates back to 1910.

This is a great museum to visit to gain a better understanding of the original peoples (the Tehuelches and the Mapuches) who lived in this area prior to the arrival of the Spanish and later the Welsh.

The museum also looks at the friendship that emerged between the Tehuelches and the Welsh, and how they helped the newcomers survive in a new and hostile climate that was very different to the one they'd left behind.

Guided tours are done in Spanish, so it does help to know the language in order to get the most out of the visit!

First House in Gaiman

Additionally, you can tour the first house to be built in Gaiman by the Welsh settlers.

This first house was built of stone in 1874. In it lived David D. Roberts and his wife Jemima Jones, who became the first settlers of Gaiman.

The house would’ve originally had a reed and mud roof, though today there’s a metal one.

Inside you can see some of the furnishings and special items this couple would have brought over from Wales, and you can also get an idea of what life would’ve been like in the early days of this rural Patagonian community.

Visiting this house is done as a guided tour. The young gentleman who gave us our tour spoke Spanish, English and was also studying Welsh.

Gaiman Panoramic Point

If you’re up for a fairly short and easy hike, you can head up to the Gaiman Panoramic Point. There’s a sculpture up top called The Shape of Silence, plus you get panoramic views of this little Welsh town in Patagonia.

Is Welsh still spoken in Patagonia?

Having travelled extensively across the Welsh-founded communities of Patagonia, I can truthfully say there isn't a significant population of Welsh speakers.

The first few generations of Welsh descendants kept the language alive, however, today the number of fluent Welsh speakers is quite small. This is understandable since the Welsh descendants live in a Spanish-speaking country and they've assimilated since their ancestors arrived in Argentina several generations back!

I met a few Welsh descendants who told me they had studied Welsh as a second language in school, but their knowledge was either basic or they only remembered some vocabulary.

That being said, there is a Welsh Language Project (WLP) that promotes the Welsh language in the Chubut region of Patagonia. They send Welsh teachers to Argentina to help develop the language in Welsh-speaking communities via formal teaching as well as informal social activities. So there is an effort underway to help keep Patagonian Welsh alive!

Where to eat in Gaiman

If you’re planning to spend the whole day in Gaiman, or if you’re planning to stay for a few days, you’ll want more than just afternoon tea! Here are a few restaurants to consider across town:

Gwalia Lân Resto - This cosy restaurant serves a mix of homemade pasta and Welsh-inspired dishes.

Na Petko - This restaurant serves up classic Argentine fare in a tranquil setting next to the river.

Cactus Cervecería - This spot serves up beer, pizzas and snack platters you can share with friends.

Where to stay in Gaiman

Gaiman is a small town and since most people visit on a day trip, accommodations are few and far between. That being said, there are a few guesthouses for those wanting to spend the night in this Welsh town in Patagonia.

Posada los Mimbres - This is a 3-star hotel located 4 km from the historic district. It offers beautiful gardens, a swimming pool, free bicycles to get around, and a restaurant that serves home-cooked meals.

Hostería Gwesty Plas y Coed - This place offers private rooms in a Welsh-style house in the historic centre of Gaiman.

Alternatively, you can look for accommodations in nearby Trelew. The two communities are 17 kilometres apart, so if you'd rather stay in a city with a few more options, that's something to consider.

That's our guide to visiting Gaiman, a charming Welsh town in Patagonia, Argentina!

If you're already going to be travelling in this part of the Province of Chubut, this town is certainly worth a visit.

Hopefully, this blog post has given you a few ideas of things to do in Gaiman and now, you should have no trouble finding a tea house where to enjoy Welsh afternoon tea!