Piedra Parada: Visiting The Strange Standing Rock in Patagonia, Argentina

Have you heard of Patagonia's Piedra Parada?

The name translates to 'standing rock' and it refers to a giant monolith that rises over 210 metres from the Chubut Valley, seemingly without explanation.

It stands in a natural protected area about 130 kilometres east of Esquel and it's a bit of a natural wonder.

This was one of the many excursions we went on because even though there are plenty of things to do in Esquel, there are even more interesting and unusual attractions to visit nearby.

So, after spending a few days hiking around town, we booked a day trip to Piedra Parada. After all, it is one of the more unique places to visit in Chubut!

How to visit Piedra Parada

We decided to join an organized tour to Piedra Parada through Meraki Sur. They are a local tour operator with offices in Esquel, so we ended up booking several activities through them.

On the morning of the tour, they came to pick us up from our accommodations, we hopped in their van, and off we went!

Leaving Esquel, we drove on Ruta Nacional 259 heading southeast, then Ruta Nacional 40 heading north, before turning onto Ruta Provincial 12 heading east.

Eventually, the paved road gave way to gravel and we bounced along until we reached Gualjaina.

This small community is located 90 kilometres east of Esquel and was the last service area before reaching our destination. Here we had a quick pit stop (last bathrooms for the day!) and picked up a few snacks for the road.

It was about a 2-and-a-half-hour drive to reach Piedra Parada Nature Reserve, locally known as Área Natural Protegida Piedra Parada, and during that time, we watched the landscape change from lush forests and mountains to arid Patagonian steppe.

Touring Piedra Parada

So what is Piedra Parada?

After all, there must be some explanation for this strange rock that rises from the valley of the Chubut River.

The answer is that Piedra Parada's origins are volcanic, and once upon a time, this area would have been the caldera of an ancient mega volcano. In quite a dramatic fashion, this rock has been referred to as the bowels of that ancient volcano.

The volcano would have first erupted some 60 million years ago before the Andes were even formed, so this rock right here has witnessed a lot of history.

Once we arrived at Piedra Parada, we spent about 30 minutes touring the area with our guide.

We learned that this volcano would've had a diameter of about 25 kilometres. When the volcanic eruption occurred, the volcanic lava turned into rocks of different shades, which gave the landscape its rich, warm colours.

The free-standing rock we see today has a standing base of 100 meters and a height of 210 meters. It’s also considered a top destination for rock climbing.

If you're the kind of person who enjoys learning all sorts of interesting facts, then a guided tour of Piedra Parada is the way to go! That being said, those who were less interested in facts and more keen on taking photos also had the freedom to wander around on their own.

After a guided walk around this massive monolith, we returned to the van, which was now parked near the banks of the Chubut River underneath a tree.

Here we enjoyed a group picnic complete with empanadas, mini-pizzas, sandwiches, pigs in a blanket, and more.

The setting was beautiful and we were happy to eat and gather our energy for the next part of the tour - a hike into the Vulture's Canyon!

Hiking the Vulture's Canyon

We then drove across the Chubut River towards Cañon de la Buitrera, which literally translates to the Vulture’s Canyon.

The canyon stretches 8 kilometres with a 3-kilometre walking trail, and the walls stand around 150 meters high. We didn't hike the full length of the canyon, but rather enjoyed some of the points of interest along the way.

We got lucky spotting some of the local wildlife, namely chinchillones. These animals are also known as Southern viscacha and they look like giant chinchillas.

They live in small groups in rocky mountain areas and they have slightly long ears, slightly reminiscent of a rabbit.

Aside from that, we were super fortunate to see the condors that inhabit the high places of this canyon.

Climbing up to the caves

During our hike through the Vulture's Canyon, our guide led us up to the aleros, which are small refuges in the rock, almost like caves.

These would have been used by the pre-Tehuelches and Tehuelches who inhabited this area in a seasonal manner up to 5000 years ago.

We learned about how they would’ve stored their guanaco meat in the ground under layers of salt to help preserve it. We also learned how they would've used volcanic glass (a product of the rapidly cooling magma) to make tips for their arrows.

Plus, there were fossils and cave paintings!

There were lots of info boards inside these caves, so it's worth the hike up to read and learn more about the history of the area. The info boards are in Spanish, English and Portuguese.

Rock climbing at Piedra Parada

So, as we’ve already mentioned, Piedra Parada is a really popular rock climbing destination.

This place was really put on the tourist map back in 2012 when the Petzl brand, which is known for organizing rock climbing gatherings, chose Piedra Parada as its destination of the year.

Now, this canyon draws climbers from all over the world and we got to see them in action. Just look for the white talcum powder marks on the rocks and you'll be able to spot the climbers slowly making their way up the massive rock walls.

If you want to rock climb at Piedra Parada, I would suggest reading this guide by The Wandering Climber. It has a lot of useful information about routes, equipment needed, camping on-site and more.

You can also inquire at local travel agencies about tours specifically geared towards climbers. Plus, you can try reaching out to the local mountaineering club, Club Andino Esquel, for info on upcoming outings.

Back to Esquel

By the time we finished our hike in the Vulture's Canyon, it was merienda time, also known as afternoon tea time.

Back at the van, our driver was waiting for the group with tea, coffee and a selection of pastries, so we were very happy hikers.

We then hopped back in the van and began the drive back to Esquel.

That was our day trip to Piedra Parada! It was a lot of fun and one of the highlights of our time in Esquel.

I would say it's one of the top things to see in Patagonia if you enjoy quirky and lesser-known destinations.

If you have the time, a few other trips to consider include Los Alerces National Park, the Welsh town of Trevelin, and Butch Cassidy's ranch in Cholila.

As we've mentioned, the Province of Chubut has some real gems, so if you can, give yourself about a week to explore Esquel when planning your Northern Patagonia travels.

Lastly, for those who prefer video, here's our vlog of the experience so you know what to expect!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsY1kfOa6Nk


Puerto Madero Neighbourhood Guide: What to See, Eat and Do!

This Puerto Madero neighbourhood guide covers things to do, where to eat, where to stay, easy day trips and family-friendly tips.

Puerto Madero is Buenos Aires' youngest neighbourhood and it has experienced quite the makeover! The former docklands district is now home to glass high rises, riverfront promenades, and former red brick warehouses that hold gelato shops, cafes and restaurants. It feels modern and polished, yet you still catch glimpses of its working-port past in the towering yellow cranes and the old docks lining the water.

We’ve been on a quest to experience every neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, and most recently used Puerto Madero as our base. Well, it turned out to be a wonderful surprise for our entire family!

Our days in Puerto Madero were spent spotting birds at the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, strolling the riverside trails, playing with our daughter at the Museum of Imagination and Play, and diving right into the local Argentine food scene.

What surprised me the most about staying in Puerto Madero is how family-friendly it is. Maybe it's because we're currently travelling with our toddler, but I couldn't help but notice the leafy parks and plazas with play areas, the museums and activities geared at young children, and the number of young parents pushing their little ones around in strollers!

I think anyone can enjoy Puerto Madero (I also visited pre-baby!), but I dare say this may be the best neighbourhood to stay in if you're travelling with a young family. It offers the perfect balance of big-city energy with easy, relaxed vibes.

In this Puerto Madero neighbourhood guide, I'm going to share what there is to see and do, some easy day trips to consider, where to eat and where to stay, along with some practical advice. If you're planning a trip to Buenos Aires, read on and see if Puerto Madero is the right neighbourhood for you.

Things to do in Puerto Madero

Let's kick things off with some of the main attractions which include everything from parks to ship museums!

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, or South Coastal Ecological Reserve, is located in Puerto Madero's east end, and I can best describe it as Buenos Aires’ wild backyard!

This eco reserve is made up of 350 hectares of wetlands, lagoons and riverfront trails right on the Río de la Plata. We spent a morning exploring the area while our baby napped in her stroller, and we were pleasantly surprised by the boardwalks, lookouts and dirt paths offering pretty spectacular views of nature and Puerto Madero's skyscrapers on the horizon.

Also, if you're a bird nerd, you'll love this place as more than 200 species of birds have been recorded! We were fortunate enough to spot several herons as well as a snake, but you can also expect lizards, otters, opossums, guinea pigs, turtles, and many more.

There are three main lagoons in the reserve: Laguna de las Gaviotas or the Seagulls Lagoon, Laguna de los Patos or the Duck Lagoon, and Laguna de los Coipos or the Otter Lagoon.

Entry to the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve is free and it is open Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays).

If you're visiting during the warmer months, you'll want to bring water, sun protection and maybe even insect repellent. Plan on 2–3 hours if you want to reach the river viewpoints and enjoy the feeling of being out of the city.

Puerto Madero Docks and Cranes

Puerto Madero’s waterfront promenade is all about the contrast: glassy high-rises and polished steakhouse patios on one side, old brick warehouses and bright yellow port cranes on the other.

The docks were once a working port and the restored cranes have been left in place as industrial sculptures, a reminder of the days when they loaded grain and goods bound for Europe.

The wide pedestrian paths along the diques are perfect for an easy, stroller-friendly walk, with plenty of spots to sit, people-watch and photograph the skyline reflected in the water.

Puente de la Mujer

Puente de la Mujer translates to "Woman's Bridge" and it is a major landmark in Puerto Madero. The sleek white pedestrian bridge was designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

If you're like me, you may be wondering why it's called the Woman's Bridge. It doesn't exactly look like a woman! Well, apparently, it's supposed to resemble a couple dancing tango! Maybe the bend of a woman's knee?

Another fun fact about Puente de la Mujer is that the central section of the bridge rotates to allow boats to pass through. We didn't get to see this, but I imagine it would be quite the event!

If you're visiting Puerto Madero, you'll likely hit up this attraction without even trying, as it naturally connects the east and west sides of the Río Darsena Sur, which is lined with restaurants, cafes and shops on both sides.

Museo de la Imaginación y el Juego (MIJU)

Puerto Madero is a very family-friendly neighbourhood, especially if you have young children. One attraction that stood out to me is the Museo de la Imaginación y el Juego (MIJU) or the Museum of Imagination and Play.

This museum is dedicated entirely to kids aged 0–12, and it has three floors divided by age categories: 0–3, 4–7, and 8–12.

Each level has different installations for climbing, building, experimenting and play. Plus, they also have an outdoor garden with lots of fun play areas for burning off energy.

For the indoor portion of the museum, you need to book a timed slot online in advance. The duration of this play slot is one hour.

Only children pay admission, and while parents go in for free, there can only be one accompanying adult. This is done for crowd control and it gives kids more space to play.

To make a reservation at the Museum of Imagination and Play, visit the MIJU Instagram page, click the link in bio, select your child's age category, and choose a time slot.

Wednesdays are usually free entry for everyone with prior reservation. That being said, prices and policies can change, so it's always best to double-check the official site before you go.

We didn't book the indoor portion before arriving, and we learned that the last session of the day was completely full, so we just enjoyed the outdoor playground with our daughter. But that's a good lesson in planning in advance!

Lastly, if you're wondering about some of the Bavarian scenes on the museum's stained glass windows and along the outer walls (I know, I was!), this is because this building used to house the Munich Brewery. It's nice to see that it has retained a bit of its history.

Buque Museo Corbeta ARA Uruguay

The ARA Uruguay is the oldest ship still afloat in the Argentine Navy and it is moored on Dique 4, where it has been transformed into a museum.

This steel-hulled corvette was built in England in 1874, and it was operational up until 1926. During that time, the ARA Uruguay served as a gunboat, a school ship, an expedition support ship, and a survey vessel, but it is perhaps best known for its Antarctic rescue.

In 1903, when the Swedish Antarctic expedition led by Otto Nordenskjöld ran into trouble, it was the ARA Uruguay that went to the rescue. Nordenskjöld's vessel, Antarctic, had become trapped in ice for a second time, suffered damage, began to take on water and sank!

Helmed by Captain Julián Irízar, the ARA Uruguay was able to rescue all of the Antarctic's crew members, and they were welcomed back in Buenos Aires as heroes with pomp and circumstance.

So that's a quick history of the Corbeta ARA Uruguay. It is now a floating museum, and you can go aboard to explore the passageways, peer into the cabins, and imagine what the long voyages of the late 19th and early 20th centuries must have been like!

Buque Museo Fragata ARA Presidente Sarmiento

Just one dock south on Dique 3, you'll find the ARA Presidente Sarmiento. This is a three-masted training ship that launched in 1897 and was once among the most advanced vessels of its time. Today, it is the last cruising training ship from the 1890s that is still intact.

During her service as a navy school ship, the ARA Presidente Sarmiento completed 37 voyages around the world between 1899 and 1938, representing Argentina at events like the opening of the Panama Canal, and has now retired as a museum and National Historic Monument.

Today, visitors can explore multiple decks, from officers’ quarters and cadet bunks to the engine room and galley, with exhibits explaining the ship's routes, technology and daily life on board.

What stands out the most from my visit aboard the ARA Presidente Sarmiento was seeing the taxidermied body of the crew's pet dog. His name was Lampazo, the Spanish word for the brush used to scrub the deck, and he was a Newfoundland dog. He is best remembered for leaping into a stormy sea after a sailor fell overboard, and his loyalty cemented him in history.

Madero Tango

I have written a very detailed guide to Buenos Aires' best tango shows, and if this is something you're looking to experience, you'll be pleased to hear that Puerto Madero also has tango!

Madero Tango is a restaurant and show venue set next to the water with large windows that frame the river and skyline.

It offers a few different options, including tango lessons, a multi-course dinner and show, or just the show.

Every tango show is a little bit different, and this one is more of a high-energy production that blends traditional tango with modern choreography, a live orchestra and some Broadway flair.

If you’re staying in Puerto Madero and want something convenient and walkable after a day of sightseeing along the docks, this location is hard to beat.

Parks and Plazas

There are so many green spaces in Puerto Madero, that it would be almost impossible to name every park and plaza, so I'll just highlight a few.

Plaza Haroldo Conti has a really nice playground with lots of slides, swings, and giant trucks that the kids can climb. Plus, the entire plaza is shaded, which means you can let the little ones run around even in the middle of a summer day.

Rosedal de Puerto Madero is a rose garden and it's another spot to check out if you happen to visit when the rose bushes are in bloom.

Meanwhile, El Bosquecito, or the Little Forest, is a section with white poplars and tree-lined paths.

The nice thing is that all these parks and plazas are interconnected, so we enjoyed lots of long walks with our daughter in her stroller.

Boat Trips from Puerto Madero

Now that we've covered all the different things to do in Puerto Madero, let's talk about some day trips!

That's right, one of the nice things about staying in Puerto Madero during your visit to Buenos Aires is that you are right by the port.

Sturla Viajes operates a super easy day trip to Tigre by boat. The journey is 1 hour and 50 minutes, and once you arrive, you can spend the day exploring the town's many museums, cruising the waterways and canals, and strolling the riverside promenade with an ice cream in hand.

And if you want to venture a bit further across the River Plate, you have the option of crossing over to neighbouring Uruguay. The Buquebus Terminal is located in Puerto Madero and offers departures to Colonia (1 hour and 15 minutes) and Montevideo (2 hours and 30 minutes).

We've visited both Colonia and Montevideo, and they are nice extentions to your Buenos Aires trip.

🛥 Make your visit easy! This day trip to Tigre starts with a boat trip up the River Plate, includes snacks at Vivanco, and time to explore Puerto de Frutos and Paseo Victoria.

Where to Eat in Puerto Madero

This neighbourhood guide to Puerto Madero wouldn't be complete without diving into the food scene, and yes, there's plenty of steak on offer, both in restaurants and street food!

Siga La Vaca

It wouldn't have been a proper visit to Puerto Madero without visiting at least one steakhouse!

This time around, we ate at Siga La Vaca. This is an all you can eat barbecue restaurant, where you can walk up to the grill as many times as you like and sample various cuts of Argentine meat.

I tried classics like the chorizo and the vacio, which is a flank steak. Meanwhile, Sam tried the matambre a la pizza, a thin cut of meat topped with your regular pizza toppings. Plus, they have a huge salad and pasta buffet where you can load up on side dishes. So lots to try!

Dessert is included as part of this all you can eat buffet. I opted for the flan con dulce de leche, while Sam went for the panqueque con dulce de leche - both classic Argentine desserts!

And I should mention, that you get one drink with your meal, but they do not skimp out. When you order wine, you get a whole bottle of wine to yourself! And my friend, who asked for soda, got a whole jug of soda for herself. Suffice it to say, you won't be going hungry or thirsty at Siga la Vaca!

Costanero Sur Food Stands

Costanera Sur is a long promenade that has parks to one side and the eco reserve to the other, so it's a nice place for a stroll, but did you know it's also a good place to eat?

That's because the Costanera Sur is lined with food stands that specialize in all things meat! You can't walk more than 25 meters without hitting the next stand.

We ate at Parrilla Angelito, but most food carts have a similar menu that features choripán (sausage on a bun), sandwich de bife (beef sandwich), pancho (hot dog on a bun), hamburgers and fries.

This is a nice and easy option if you're looking to grab lunch on the go.

Lucciano's

Ice cream was a daily occurrence during our stay in Puerto Madero. We visited in late spring and the days were hot and humid!

We came across Lucciano's while walking along the port and it was an instant hit! I got a scoop of coconut and another of strawberry cream. I love creamy, fruity flavours, so it was just what I needed.

The interior has a very Italian vibe, and it was just nice to cool down in an air-conditioned space.

Where to Stay in Puerto Madero

Puerto Madero is one of the more upscale neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires and it comes with a price tag. If you're looking for 5-star accommodations, you're in the right place.

Hotel Faena - This hotel is set in an industrial red brick building, and it is known for its opulent decor with pops of red! It has a spa centre with a pool and hammam, a restaurant with an Italian-Sardinian menu, and it also hosts a cabaret-style tango show.

Hotel Madero - This property is a member of WorldHotels Elite and all of its rooms have private balconies. The hotel houses the Rëd Resto & Lounge with its own wine cellar, and the White Bar which offers customized cocktails.

Alvear Icon Hotel - Located in a 32-floor tower, the Alvear Icon Hotel offers both city and river views. It has an indoor heated pool with a retractable roof, plus multiple restaurants and bars.

Aside from hotels, you can also find a lot of short-term apartment rentals. Because we were travelling with our toddler, I was quite conscious of what I did not want: no balconies, no stairs and no dangerous furniture.

I lucked out with an AirBnB that had a kids' room with a fun safari mural, an outdoor terrace with a trampoline, and a playpen. I did pay double what I normally would elsewhere in Buenos Aires, but we wanted to experience staying in Puerto Madero, and our daughter really loved the space.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B37Vcoc1eWY

More Buenos Aires Neighbourhoods to Consider

Now that you’ve read this Puerto Madero neighbourhood guide, you can decide if it’s the right base for your trip. If you’re after a slightly different vibe, here are a few other Buenos Aires neighbourhoods to consider:

Palermo – Trendy, sprawling and leafy, Palermo is the city’s creative hub with hip cafés, independent boutiques, buzzing nightlife and huge parks. Best for foodies, digital nomads and travellers who love a vibrant, youthful atmosphere and don’t mind being a short taxi ride from the historic centre.

San Telmo – Buenos Aires’ oldest barrio is all cobblestone streets, antique markets and tango-in-the-plaza energy. Great for history buffs, art lovers and anyone who enjoys bohemian, slightly crumbling charm. Just know that some streets can be noisy late into the night thanks to bars and live music.

Recoleta – Recoleta is elegant and residential, known for its Parisian-style architecture, famous cemetery and leafy plazas. Ideal if you like a classic, refined feel with lots of cafés, museums and easy access to other central neighbourhoods.

Retiro – A mix of grand avenues, leafy squares and major transport links, Retiro gives you quick access to buses, trains and many of the city’s main sights. Good for travellers who want a central, well-connected base with a touch of old-world grandeur.

Monserrat / Microcentro – This is the political and historic heart of Buenos Aires, home to Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, Barolo Palace and many landmark buildings. Perfect if you want to be in the middle of the action during the day. Some blocks feel a bit more hectic and gritty, and it quiets down a lot at night.

La Boca – Colourful, raw and full of character, La Boca is where you’ll find Caminito, street tango and intense fútbol culture. I’d treat it as a daytime sightseeing neighbourhood rather than a place to stay overnight, and stick to the main tourist area.

Chacarita – A rising star with a local, lived-in feel, known for its massive cemetery, craft breweries and creative scene. Great for travellers who enjoy off-the-beaten-path neighbourhoods, café-hopping and a more residential vibe.

Villa Crespo – Palermo’s quieter neighbour with lower-key charm, emerging restaurants and indie shops. Ideal if you like staying somewhere that feels local and authentic, while still being close enough to Palermo’s parks and nightlife when you want it.


Rada Tilly: The Southernmost Beach Resort in South America!

The seaside town of Rada Tilly has the distinction of being the southernmost beach resort on the South American continent.

Located in the Province of Chubut, just 13 kilometres from the oil capital of Comodoro Rivadavia, Rada Tilly makes for a really nice day trip offering wide beaches, impressive cliffs, gourmet dining, and the chance to see sea lions!

If you're planning to travel coastal Patagonia and you're going to be in the vicinity of Comodoro Rivadavia, then you won't want to miss out on a visit to neighbouring Rada Tilly.

Here are some ideas on how to spend your day there.

How to get to Rada Tilly

By bus

You can catch the bus to Rada Tilly from the Comodoro Rivadavia Bus Terminal. Bus #10 is operated by Expreso Rada Tilly and runs daily every 25-30 minutes.

You have to get a reloadable card to travel on this bus, but you can do so right at the ticketing counter. Just ask them to load two trips (there and back) and you're all set for your day trip to Rada Tilly.

The bus journey takes about 30 minutes depending on how many stops the bus driver makes along the way, and it costs under $1 USD to get there.

You can view the bus schedule here.

By car

If you are renting a car during your stay, you can drive from Comodoro Rivadavia to Rada Tilly in just under 20 minutes.

It's a 13-kilometre drive along Ruta Nacional 3 and you'll see the turn-off for Villa Rada Tilly on the left-hand side.

Things to do in Rada Tilly

What can you do in Rada Tilly on a day trip? Turns out, quite a bit! Here's a taste of what you can get up to in this seaside town on a short visit.

Enjoy the southernmost beach resort

As we mentioned earlier, Rada Tilly is considered the southernmost seaside resort in South America.

The warmest the water ever gets is about 17°C or 62°F, so it’s really not that warm, but it only gets chillier from here on south!

We visited quite early in the summer, so while we noticed a few brave kids running into the water, most people were just sunbathing.

If you do visit, pack your swimsuit, but maybe also a windbreaker - you never know which one you might need!

The best part about the beach in Rada Tilly is that it is incredibly wide during low tide. You can walk really far out seeing all the shells that are left exposed on the seabed, plus you have these imposing cliffs on the south end which add a bit of drama.

This seaside town is another reason you'll want to visit Chubut!

Watch the wind buggies race

Rada Tilly Beach is a popular destination for all sorts of wind sports like windsurfing and kitesurfing, but did you know there's also land sailing?

That's right, this is a sport where three-wheeled carts with a sail attached to them move using the force of the wind.

The vehicles are known as wind carts or wind buggies, and there's even a land sailing school on the beach's north end called Asociación Patagónica de Carrovelismo.

You can catch them practising on this very beach, and they also hold annual competitions, so if you time your visit right you can watch the wind buggies race in the championship!

Check out the beachfront homes

One of the things we found most interesting about Rada Tilly were the beach homes built in all sorts of different styles!

One thing to note about Rada Tilly is that it's considered a weekend getaway and summer playground for a lot of people who work in Comodoro's Rivadavia oil industry, so that means big money.

You'll notice a mix of elegant houses and even grand mansions as you enjoy a stroll along the Costanera which runs parallel to Avenida Armada Argentina.

There was one house in particular that caught our attention and looked like it had been inspired by Santorini with a splash of neighbouring Turkey. It was painted white with blue domes, but it also had architectural elements that resembled a minaret.

Not at all what we expected to find in this part of the world!

Lunch at #in Restaurant

We only had one day in Rada Tilly so we wanted to enjoy a nice seaside meal, and I really think we chose right with #in Restaurant.

This is a restaurant by day that turns into more of a beach lounge and sushi bar by night.

They had a really nice menu featuring a mix of Patagonian dishes.

While we waited for our mains, we were served two loaves of bread fresh out of the oven with a garlicky spread.

I ordered the seafood risotto with shrimp, squid, mussels and scallops. It was creamy, butter and cheesy - you could see the strings of cheese with every bite! The perfect dish to enjoy by the seaside.

Meanwhile, Sam ordered the lamb with caramelized onions and a side of risotto alla Milanese (the secret ingredient here is saffron). This was probably the best dish on the menu and Sam proceeded to declare it the best lamb he's had in his life.

To accompany the meal, we got a bottle of Patagonian wine called La Poderosa by Bodega Fin del Mundo.

And after such a fabulous meal, we couldn't resist dessert and got the dulce de leche volcano. This is a warm brownie with a warm, gooey caramel in the middle that spills out when you cut into the dessert. It had a light dusting of powdered sugar and it was served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

I can't say enough good things about this meal. It really was wonderful!

See the sea lions at Punta Marqués

Punta Marqués is a popular spot to go see sea lions. Most people visit on a day trip from Comodoro Rivadavia, but it's even closer to Rada Tilly!

If you're up for a workout, you can hike up from the beach - it's a 6-kilometre walk from the south end. You just need to get on the road Al Mirador, which means 'to the lookout'. It's a dirt road and there are trails that break away as shortcuts.

If you decide to walk, make sure you have plenty of water, sunscreen and a sunhat as there is no shade and the climate here is quite dry and arid.

However, if you can, I would suggest paying for a taxi to take you up to the viewpoint. You can get them to wait for you and then drive back.

And if you really feel like you need more time, you can always walk back (it's easier on the way down).

Visit the Rada Tilly Regional Museum

If you're up for a museum visit, the Rada Tilly Regional Museum is a cute little spot to check out.

This museum focuses on showcasing the native flora and fauna of the Patagonian steppe; you can see sea lions, Magellanic penguins, rheas, albatross and other wildlife.

They also have displays with fossils from different geological eras as well as the various ethnohistorical groups that inhabited this area.

Admission to the museum was the equivalent of $0.50 USD and it can be done as a self-guided visit.

And that's a taste of what you can get up to in Rada Tilly! It's a great day trip from Comodoro Rivadavia, but if you have the time to linger for a few days, you'll be able to soak the beach vibes even more.


Recoleta Cemetery: Exploring Buenos Aires’ Most Famous Burial Ground

Recoleta Cemetery is ranked among the most beautiful cemeteries in the world, and visiting is one of those quintessential Buenos Aires experiences!

Known locally as Cementerio de la Recoleta, this historic necropolis is far more than a burial ground; it’s a labyrinth of marble mausoleums, a who’s who of Argentine history, and an open-air museum that tells the story of a nation through architecture and memory.

For first-time visitors, Recoleta Cemetery can feel a little overwhelming at first. There are thousands of tombs, winding cobblestone paths, and layers upon layers of history.

This guide is here to help you make the most of your visit, whether you’ve come for Evita’s famous tomb, to admire the Belle Époque architecture, or simply to soak up the atmosphere of this hauntingly beautiful place.

A Brief History of Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery was founded in 1822, making it the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires.

It occupies land that originally belonged to the adjoining Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, and the surrounding neighbourhood eventually adopted the name Recoleta from the Recollect monks who once lived here.

In its early years, the cemetery was fairly modest, but during Argentina’s Golden Age (late 19th–early 20th century), Buenos Aires’ wealthy elite began transforming it into something extraordinary.

Inspired by European cemeteries like Père Lachaise in Paris, families competed to build the most elaborate mausoleums, hiring top architects, importing marble from Italy, and commissioning sculptures from Europe’s best ateliers.

By the turn of the century, Recoleta Cemetery had become a symbol of status and legacy. Presidents, generals, poets, aristocrats, and cultural icons were laid to rest here, their tombs often as grand as palaces.

In 1946, the cemetery was declared a National Historic Monument, cementing its role as both a sacred site and a cultural landmark.

Visitor Essentials

Before you start wandering the cemetery’s atmospheric alleys, here are a few practical details to help you plan your visit:

CategoryDetails📍 LocationJunín 1760, Recoleta, Buenos Aires🕒 Opening HoursDaily 7 a.m.–6 p.m. (check locally)💰 Entry FeeFree for Argentines; small fee for foreigners (subject to change)⏱ Suggested Visit Time1–2 hours🗺 ToursFree group tours or private guides available in English and Spanish (check schedule)🦽 AccessibilityMostly flat but cobblestoned paths, so wear comfy shoes

TIP: Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times to visit Recoleta Cemetery. You'll find fewer tour groups, softer light, and a more peaceful atmosphere.

Layout & Atmosphere

Recoleta Cemetery covers around 5.5 hectares, with paths laid out in a grid system reminiscent of a small city. In fact, locals sometimes refer to it as a “city of the dead.”

The narrow cobblestone alleys are lined with more than 6,400 mausoleums, statues and chapels, some simple and others jaw-droppingly ornate. I was surprised to even see some coffins exposed to the elements; you get a sense of the passing of time here.

Architecturally, it’s a feast for the eyes. You’ll spot Neo-Gothic, Art Deco, Baroque, and Art Nouveau designs all within a few steps. Many of these tombs were designed by Argentina’s most celebrated architects and sculptors, and some were even imported directly from Europe.

One of my favourite things about visiting is the cats lounging on marble steps, though if you're visiting now, you're less likely to spot them! As it turns out, Recoleta's strays have been getting adopted and this combined with a spay and neuter campaign has proven rather effective.

Notable Tombs & Points of Interest

While you could easily spend hours wandering aimlessly (and I recommend leaving a little time for that), there are a few key tombs and stories you shouldn’t miss:

Eva Perón (Evita)

The most visited tomb in the cemetery belongs to Eva Perón, Argentina’s beloved and controversial First Lady. Her remains rest in the Duarte family mausoleum, a surprisingly modest black marble tomb tucked along a narrow alley. There’s almost always a small crowd gathered, leaving flowers or snapping photos.

Rufina Cambaceres

Perhaps the most haunting story is that of Rufina Cambaceres, a young socialite who was allegedly buried alive after falling into a cataleptic coma in 1902. Her Art Nouveau tomb shows her elegantly opening a door, as if emerging back into life.

Admiral Guillermo Brown

Admiral Guillermo Brown was an Irish-born sailor who became the father of the Argentine Navy. His mausoleum stands out with its naval motifs and historic significance.

María Remedios de Escalada

María de los Remedios de Escalada y La Quintana was the wife of General José de San Martín, the liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru. She was only 25 years old when she died. Her tomb is a simple and austere white marble with an inscription that reads, "Here lies Remedios de Escalada, wife and friend of Gen. S. Martín."

Luis Ángel Firpo

Known as “The Wild Bull of the Pampas,” Firpo was a famous boxer whose bronze statue depicts him mid-punch.

Dorrego Ortiz Basualdo Family Mausoleum

This grand structure showcases French-inspired architecture at its most opulent. It is one of many tombs that feels more like a mini palace than a resting place.

David Alleno

Perhaps the most curious figure is David Alleno, the cemetery’s caretaker who spent his life saving money to build his own tomb, which features a life-size statue of himself holding keys. Legend has it he took his life right after it was completed so he could “move in” early.

TIP: Pick up a paper map at the entrance to help you find the key sites. The tombs aren’t always well signposted, and some of the most fascinating stories are down the quietest lanes.

Tips for First-Time Visitors

Wear comfy shoes because those cobblestones can be tricky after an hour of wandering.

Bring water and sunscreen if visiting during the warmer months because there’s little shade.

Photography is allowed and encouraged, but be respectful. Early morning and late afternoon are best for soft, golden light.

Be mindful that this is still an active cemetery, so you may see families visiting loved ones.

Take your time. Even if you’re not usually a “cemetery person,” the architecture and stories are genuinely captivating.

Nearby Attractions in Recoleta

Recoleta Cemetery is perfectly positioned to combine with other neighbourhood highlights, making for a great half or full-day itinerary.

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar – Right next door, this 18th-century colonial church is one of the oldest in Buenos Aires. Step inside for a look at its ornate silver altar and peaceful cloisters.

Centro Cultural Recoleta – Housed in a former convent, this creative hub hosts rotating exhibitions, concerts, and workshops. Entry is usually free.

La Biela Café – Just across the plaza, this iconic café is perfect for a post-tour coffee under the shade of a massive rubber tree.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – Argentina’s top fine arts museum is only a few minutes away on foot and is free to visit.

Plaza Francia Artisan Market – If you’re visiting on a weekend, this lively market is a good spot to shop for handmade crafts and traditional Argentine souvenirs.

If you’re planning to spend the day in the area, check out my full neighbourhood guide to Recoleta for more ideas on where to eat, shop, and stay nearby.

And if you get caught with a rainy day in Buenos Aires, here are some activities to keep you busy and dry!

Recoleta Cemetery FAQs

How much time do I need at Recoleta Cemetery? Plan for 60–90 minutes. If you’re a photography or architecture fan, budget up to 2 hours to wander beyond the main lanes. What are the opening hours? Generally 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily. Hours can change on holidays, so glance at the sign at the entrance or the city tourism site before you go. Is there an entrance fee? It’s free for Argentine residents; foreign visitors may pay a small fee. This policy has changed over time, so bring a payment card or small cash just in case. Do I need a guide or can I visit on my own? You can absolutely self-guide with a printed map or a phone map. History lovers will enjoy a guided tour (city-run or private) to unlock the best stories in less time. What are the can’t-miss tombs? Eva Perón (Duarte family mausoleum), Rufina Cambaceres, Admiral Guillermo Brown, Luis Ángel Firpo, the Dorrego Ortiz Basualdo mausoleum, and David Alleno’s self-statue are top highlights. When is the best time to visit? Early morning or late afternoon: softer light for photos, fewer groups, and cooler temperatures. Is it suitable for kids? Yes, with a bit of storytelling. The “mini-city” layout, cats, and striking sculptures keep children engaged—just stick to main paths and set expectations about respectful behavior. Is the cemetery accessible? Paths are flat but cobblestoned. Wheelchairs and strollers can navigate the main avenues; narrower lanes can be bumpy. Wear comfortable shoes. Are photos allowed? Yes, photography is welcome. Avoid flash inside chapels, don’t climb or touch monuments, and be mindful if families are visiting a grave. Are there bathrooms, cafés, or shops inside? No services inside. You’ll find cafés, kiosks, ATMs, and public restrooms just outside the gates (La Biela and Plaza Francia area are steps away).

Final Thoughts

Even if cemeteries aren’t usually on your travel list, Recoleta Cemetery is different. It’s part history book, part sculpture gallery, part architectural showcase, and it captures something essential about Buenos Aires’ past and identity.

I’ve visited multiple times over the years, and each visit reveals something new. So take your time, wander slowly, and enjoy the tranquility.


Recoleta Neighbourhood Guide: Explore Buenos Aires’ Most Elegant District

This Recoleta neighbourhood guide will help you explore Buenos Aires' most elegant district, filled with Belle Époque buildings!

Elegant, historic, and effortlessly charming are just a few words to describe Recoleta. This neighbourhood is home to historic mansions, leafy plazas and old-world cafes, and it is the reason why Buenos Aires is often called "the Paris of South America"!

While I have stayed in a lot of different Buenos Aires neighbourhoods over the years, Recoleta is my personal favourite and it's the one I recommend to first-time visitors.

There's something magical about walking down grand avenues lined with cream coloured buildings that transport you back to another era, while still being within walking distance of so many tourist attractions. It's the perfect introduction to the city!

In this Recoleta neighbourhood guide, I’ll share the top things to do, places to eat, and best hotels to stay in, so you can experience this neighbourhood like a local and make the most of your time in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Things to Do in Recoleta

Recoleta Cemetery

A cemetery may seem like a bit of a morbid attraction, but Recoleta Cemetery is one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic landmarks!

Established in 1822 on the grounds of a former convent, this became the city’s first public cemetery and soon evolved into the final resting place of Argentina’s elite. It is home to many notable figures, including several presidents, military leaders, Nobel Prize winners, athletes, and members of the city’s most powerful families.

Recoleta Cemetery feels like a mini city, complete with cobblestone paths and a maze of more than 6,400 mausoleums and tombs, many designed by leading architects and sculptors of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Most visitors make a beeline for the black marble tomb of Eva Perón, better known as Evita.

I have visited Recoleta Cemetery many times over the years, and one of the big draws was the stray cats who lived there! Well, today, you'll be hard-pressed to find these felines, but that's because they have been adopted, and those who remain have been spayed and neutered. So while I miss spotting the cats napping in the mausoleums, it's actually good news.

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Standing beside Recoleta Cemetery, you'll find the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, one of Buenos Aires’ oldest churches.

Completed in 1732, it was originally part of a Franciscan monastery and is a rare surviving example of colonial baroque architecture in the city. Its white façade and understated interior contrast with the grandeur of the surrounding Belle Époque buildings.

Inside, the basilica you'll find altarpieces, religious paintings, and ornate silverwork, offering a glimpse into the city’s early colonial history and devotion.

Centro Cultural Recoleta

Housed in a former 18th-century convent, the Centro Cultural Recoleta is one of Buenos Aires’ most vibrant creative hubs, blending historic architecture with contemporary culture.

Located right next to Recoleta Cemetery, this space features a constantly changing lineup of exhibitions, performances and workshops that showcase cutting-edge Argentine and international art.

The building itself retains beautiful colonial elements, including courtyards and cloisters, which now serve as lively gathering spaces.

Fun fact about this building: it is a canvas in and of itself, and it is constantly getting repainted! Over the years, I've seen it range from a traditional terracotta colour to one covered in bold shapes and patterns.

Feria de Recoleta

The Feria de Recoleta, or Recoleta Market, is a lively weekend artisan fair that takes place in Plaza Francia, right beside Recoleta Cemetery and the Centro Cultural Recoleta.

The fair is held every Saturday, Sunday, and public holiday, transforming the park into a bustling open-air market filled with hundreds of stalls run by local artisans.

Here you’ll find a wide range of artisanal goods that make great souvenirs, including leather accessories, silver jewelry, mate gourds, ceramics, textiles, original artwork, and quirky souvenirs that make for meaningful keepsakes.

Walk the Plazas

Recoleta is a neighbourhood of parks and plazas, and the best part is that many of them are interconnected. So if you're somebody who enjoys a morning jog or stroll, you'll have plenty of paths to choose from.

Some of my favourites are Parque Vicente Lopez y Planes with its huge gomero tree. I always enjoy seeing the dog walkers here who bring the dogs to play.

Meanwhile, Plaza San Martín de Tours has a nice hill, and it's a beautiful spot to lounge and admire the surrounding architecture.

Floralis Generica

Floralis Genérica is one of Buenos Aires’ most striking modern landmarks! Located in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas, it is a massive steel and aluminum flower sculpture that opens and closes.

Designed by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano and inaugurated in 2002, the 20-meter-tall flower was originally engineered to open at dawn and close at night. This daily movement made it a living, breathing artwork that mirrored the rhythms of the city.

Unfortunately, the sculpture has been affected by extreme weather over the years. First, a powerful storm in 2010 damaged the mechanism that controlled the petals, leaving the flower permanently open for several years until 2015.

Then, strong winds hit the sculpture again in 2023, and two of the petals bent and fell during the storm. So, it's not quite what it used to be, but it's still an important attraction in Recoleta.

Arandu Talabarteria

Arandú Talabartería is a beautiful store that specializes in traditional Argentine products that represent the countryside. They have a handful of stores across the city, including one in the neighbourhood of Recoleta.

Here you can find leather goods, riding boots, silver jewellery, polo shirts, gaucho clothing, and so much more.

The space has been carefully curated, and it almost feels like a museum, so it's worth a peek if you're in the area.

Patio Bullrich

Once an upscale auction house for thoroughbred cattle, Patio Bullrich is now one of Buenos Aires’ most elegant shopping centers.

Located at the edge of Recoleta, this beautifully restored 19th-century building features ornate ironwork, marble details, and a soaring glass roof, giving the mall a touch of European flair.

Inside, you’ll find a curated selection of high-end boutiques, including both international designer labels and prestigious Argentine brands.

While it’s not the largest mall in the city, it is a pleasant place to browse, enjoy a coffee, or escape a rainy afternoon in Buenos Aires.

It’s especially popular with visitors looking for leather goods, fashion, and luxury accessories.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

Housed in a former grand theatre, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the most breathtaking bookstores in the world and an absolute must-visit in Recoleta.

Built in 1919 as the Teatro Grand Splendid, the building originally hosted tango performances, live shows, and even early radio broadcasts before being transformed into a bookstore in 2000.

Today, its ornate frescoed ceiling, gilded balconies, and red stage curtains create a dramatic backdrop for rows of bookshelves and cozy reading nooks.

Visitors can browse literature in Spanish and other languages, flip through art books under the theatre’s domed ceiling, or relax with a coffee at the café set on the former stage.

Whether you’re a book lover or simply appreciate stunning architecture, El Ateneo Grand Splendid deserves a spot on your Buenos Aires itinerary!

Facultad de Derecho

The Facultad de Derecho, or the Law Faculty of the University of Buenos Aires, is one of the neighbourhood’s most imposing buildings.

Located along Avenida Figueroa Alcorta at the edge of Recoleta, this Neo-Classical building was inaugurated in 1949. It is instantly recognizable by its façade featuring a row of massive stone columns that give it the appearance of a Greco-Roman temple.

This striking structure houses one of Argentina’s most prestigious law schools and remains an active university building, bustling with students during the academic year.

Visitors can admire the architecture from the outside and stroll up its wide steps for a panoramic view of the surrounding area.

With the Floralis Genérica just across the street, it’s a natural stop on any Recoleta walking route.

TIP: The Law Faculty is a great spot to see the jacarandas in bloom if you're visiting Buenos Aires in the springtime!

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Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA) is Argentina’s premier fine arts museum and one of the cultural crown jewels of Buenos Aires.

Located in Recoleta, just steps from Plaza Francia, the museum occupies a former water pumping station that was converted into an exhibition space in 1933.

Its collection spans European masters, Argentine artists, and Latin American modernists. You can admire works by Goya, Rembrandt, Monet, Rodin, and Degas, alongside an extensive collection of Argentine paintings and sculptures that trace the country’s artistic evolution from the 19th century to today.

The museum’s permanent collection is free to visit, making it an accessible cultural experience for travellers, while rotating temporary exhibitions bring fresh perspectives to the space.

Biblioteca Nacional Mariano Moreno

The Biblioteca Nacional Mariano Moreno is Argentina’s national library and a fascinating architectural landmark in Recoleta.

Completed in 1992, it’s a striking example of Brutalist architecture, with a massive concrete structure perched on stilts above open terraces and gardens. It's a very bold contrast to the surrounding Belle Époque buildings you see in Recoleta!

Named after Mariano Moreno, a key figure in Argentina’s independence movement, the library holds millions of books, manuscripts, maps, and historical documents, making it one of the most important literary institutions in Latin America.

While it primarily serves as a research library, visitors are welcome to explore the public areas, including the lobby, reading rooms, and occasional temporary exhibitions.

The building’s panoramic terrace also offers excellent views of the city and Río de la Plata, and architecture enthusiasts will especially enjoy its distinctive design.

This isn't your typical Recoleta tourist attraction, but it’s a worthwhile stop if you want to discover some of Buenos Aires' lesser-known sights.

Palais de Glace

Palais de Glace, also known as Palacio Nacional de las Artes, is another Belle Époque landmark in Recoleta.

It was originally conceived as an elegant ice-skating rink and social club in the early 20th century. It then transformed into a dance hall where tango orchestras performed, before being repurposed into an art gallery.

The circular central hall, topped by a domed roof and skylight, now hosts rotating exhibitions.

Mansions and Embassies

One of the best ways to appreciate Recoleta’s timeless elegance is by setting out on a self-guided walking tour through its tree-lined streets and grand avenues.

Start along Avenida Alvear, often compared to Paris’s Avenue Foch, where a series of Belle Époque mansions built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries showcase the wealth and ambition of Argentina’s Golden Age.

Many of these opulent residences were designed by French architects and feature wrought-iron balconies, ornate cornices, mansard roofs, and intricate stonework that echo the styles of Paris.

Today, several of these historic buildings house embassies, cultural institutes, and luxury hotels (more on that later!).

Where to Eat in Recoleta

La Biela

My go-to cafe whenever I'm in the Recoleta neighbourhood is La Biela. This is one of Recoleta’s most famous cafés and a designated bar notable.

It is conveniently located on Avenida Quintana right across from the Basílica del Pilar and Recoleta Cemetery.

Its history dates back to the mid-19th century, when it began as a simple sidewalk bar before evolving into a meeting spot for pilots and later car enthusiasts.

Over the years, La Biela became a favourite haunt of intellectuals, writers, and artists, including Jorge Luis Borges and Adolfo Bioy Casares, whose table remains permanently set in their honour.

Inside, La Biela exudes old-world charm with wood panelling, vintage racing memorabilia, and black-and-white photographs, while its shaded terrace beneath a century-old rubber tree is perfect for people-watching.

I like to stop in for merienda or tea time. If you order the Recoleta, you'll get tea with pastries and a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, which is pretty classic.

Address: Avenida Presidente Manuel Quintana 596

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La Rambla

Café La Rambla is a beautiful corner café that has retained its authentic porteño charm since opening in 1938.

Small, unpretentious, and full of character, it’s one of those cafés where time seems to slow down. It's a place favoured by locals for their daily coffee, medialunas, and quiet conversations.

I first came across La Rambla on a rainy morning, looking for breakfast. The cafe won me over with its desayuno clásico featuring coffee with milk, two medialunas and a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Address: Posadas 1602

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El Sanjuanino

El Sanjuanino is known to serve some of the best empanadas in Buenos Aires!

The empanadas sanjuaninas (from the province of San Juan) are their specialty. These empanadas are known for being juicy and flavorful. I would suggest trying the fritas (fried), which are infinitely superior to the horneadas (baked).

Aside from empanadas, El Sanjuanino’s menu also features regional dishes from northern Argentina, which include staples like locro, humitas, and tamales.

Now, let me warn you, El Sanjuanino is a local institution in Recoleta. Every time I walk past it, every table is completely packed! I would suggest arriving just before they open, so you can snag a spot.

Address: Posadas 1515

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L'Orangerie at Alvear Palace Hotel

If like me, your budget doesn't stretch far enough to spend the night at Alvear Palace Hotel, another way to see the property is by having afternoon tea!

Tea is served in the winter garden, and it's an elegant affair with a spread that includes warm scones with marmalades, a tiered selection of finger sandwiches and pastries.

They offer a wide selection of teas, among them the hotel’s signature Alvear Blend, a black tea infused with almonds, citrus, and rose petals! It's as exquisite as it sounds.

I took my parents for afternoon tea here during one of their visits, and it was one of the highlights of our adventures across the neighbourhood of Recoleta.

Address: Avenida Alvear 1891

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Rapa Nui

Rapa Nui is an ice cream chain with branches all over Buenos Aires, however, the one in Recoleta is the one that I frequent the most. This location is set in a Belle Epoque building with high ceilings, lots of natural light and a small inner terrace.

If you have a sweet tooth, you'll love Rapa Nui because you can enjoy a mix of artisanal chocolates, helados (ice cream), and confections.

My husband loves anything with dulce de leche, whereas I tend to go for the fruit and cream combinations with forest berries.

Buenos Aires has a serious ice cream culture, so I would highly recommend making time to visit an heladería or two!

Address: Uruguay 1284

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Aramburú

If fine dining is more your scene, you'll want to visit Aramburu. This restaurant is helmed by chef Gonzalo Aramburu, and it is one of Recoleta’s most celebrated fine-dining establishments.

This is not an experience that can be booked by walking in off the street; reservations need to be made in advance.

What sets Aramburu apart is its 18-course meal featuring a seasonally evolving tasting menu that emphasizes local ingredients and playful textures. You can choose to add on a wine-pairing option to enhance the experience.

Aramburu was the first restaurant in Argentina to earn two Michelin stars, and it is also a Relais & Châteaux property. It's one of the best restaurants in Recoleta if you're looking for something sophisticated, intimate and refined.

Address: Pasaje del Correo, Vicente López 1661

Where to Stay in Recoleta

Alvear Palace Hotel

If it's luxury you are after, look no further than the Alvear Palace Hotel. This is a classic symbol of Recoleta opulence, and the property features Louis XIV/XV interiors, marble finishes, lush fabrics, and a long tradition of ultra-refined service.

View rates at Alvear Palace Hotel.

LOI Suites Recoleta

Perched in the heart of Recoleta steps from the cemetery, LOI Suites Recoleta blends elegance and comfort in a boutique hotel atmosphere. The style is elegant with French-style windows, lots of natural light and cozy interiors. Guests can unwind in the hotel’s indoor pool, spa facilities, and the winter garden lounge that feels like a little oasis in the city.

View rates at LOI Suites Recoleta.

A Hotel

Believe it or not, it is possible to find budget-friendly accommodations in Recoleta! At A Hotel, you'll get tastefully decorated, spacious rooms with private bathrooms. And because this is an art hotel, the rooms also feature original works of art by Argentine painters.

View rates at A Hotel.

Recoleta Neighbourhood Map

More Buenos Aires Neighbourhoods

Now that you've read this Recoleta neighbourhood guide, you can decide if it's the right place for you. If you're looking for a slightly different vibe, here are a few other Buenos Aires neighbourhoods to consider:

Palermo – Trendy, sprawling, and green, Palermo is the city’s creative heart with hip cafés, boutiques, nightlife, and parks. Best for foodies, digital nomads, and travellers who love a vibrant, youthful vibe.

San Telmo – Buenos Aires’ oldest neighbourhood is filled with cobblestone streets, antique shops, and tango culture. Perfect for history buffs, art lovers, and those who enjoy a bohemian, romantic atmosphere. I find some areas can be a bit loud at night since there's quite a bit of nightlife.

Puerto Madero – Sleek, modern, and waterfront, this area blends luxury living with scenic boardwalks and upscale dining. Ideal for travellers who love contemporary architecture, comfort, and leisurely strolls by the docks.

Retiro – A blend of elegance and transit hub energy, Retiro features grand architecture, leafy plazas, and proximity to major attractions. Great for those who want central access with a dash of old-world charm.

Monserrat / Microcentro – This neighbourhood is the political and historic core of Buenos Aires, packed with landmarks like Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada. Perfect for visitors who want to be in the middle of the action, especially during the day. Some parts are a bit more gritty than others.

La Boca – Colourful, gritty, and full of character, La Boca is home to Caminito street, fútbol culture, tango and working-class history. This neighbourhood is better suited for daytime exploring, and I personally would not stay overnight here.

Chacarita – A rising star with a laid-back, local feel, known for its large cemetery, craft breweries, and creative scene. Great for travellers seeking a more authentic, untouristy slice of city life.

Villa Crespo – Palermo’s quieter, cooler neighbour, blending old-school charm with emerging restaurants and indie shops. Ideal for those who like staying local and discovering hidden gems off the main tourist trail.


Route of the Seven Lakes: Beautiful 1-Day Patagonian Road Trip!

One of the most beautiful road trips you can do in Patagonia is the Route of the Seven Lakes, also known as La Ruta de los Siete Lagos.

This is a 107-kilometre drive that stretches between the towns of San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura in the Province of Neuquén. The route goes through two national parks, Lanín National Park and Nahuel Huapi National Park, and it offers spectacular views at every turn.

The Route of the Seven Lakes runs along a scenic stretch of National Route 40, which is the highway that crosses the full length of Argentina from north to south.

Along the drive, travellers are treated to majestic views of snow-capped mountains, crystalline lakes that range from emerald to cobalt blue, and lush greenery.

The best part is that the Route of the Seven Lakes can be driven in one day, and it can be done independently or as part of a guided tour. It's one of the most beautiful places in Patagonia and is well worth experiencing.

In this blog post, we’ll tell you all about this iconic Argentine road trip!

This Seven Lakes day trip departs from Bariloche and includes stops in Villa La Angostura, the seven lakes and numerous lookout points, plus free time to explore the town of San Martin de Los Andes.

Route of the Seven Lakes FAQs

What lakes are included in the Route of the 7 Lakes? The lakes that make up the Route of the Seven Lakes are Lake Machónico, Lake Escondido, Lake Correntoso, Lake Espejo, Lake Lácar, Lake Falkner, and Lake Villarino. Other lakes accessible through secondary paths include Lake Meliquina, Lake Hermoso, Lake Traful and Lake Espejo Chico. What other attractions can you visit along the Route of the Seven Lakes? Aside from the lakes, you can also visit Cascada Vuliñanco, a waterfall; Arroyo Partido, a stream; and Valle del Arroyo Pil Pil, a valley. How long does it take to drive the Route of the Seven Lakes? If you were to drive the Seven Lakes Route without making any stops along the way, it would take just under 2 hours to complete the 107-kilometre route. However, since this is a scenic drive, it really depends on how long you take at each place, but it can be done in one full day. What towns do you visit along the Route of the Seven Lakes? The Route of the Seven Lakes is flanked by two towns that mark the start and end of the drive: San Martín de los Andes to the north and Villa La Angostura to the south. You'll first want to get to Bariloche (you can do so via airplane, bus or train) since this is the gateway to Patagonia's Lake District.

Driving the Route of the Seven Lakes

We chose to experience Patagonia’s Road of the Seven Lakes as part of a guided full-day tour.

We started the day in the town of San Martín de Los Andes, which is the northern tip of this route. Of course, you can also drive the route in the opposite direction.

Tours depart from Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. If you're spending a few days in Bariloche, this is a popular day trip you can book.

Almost all tour operators in these towns offer the Seven Lakes tour, so you can book once you arrive in town, or do so online ahead of time.

Lago Machónico

The first lake you hit when leaving the town of San Martín de los Andes is Lago Machónico. This lake is of glacial origin, and it offers beautiful views of mountain peaks covered in snow.

Because of its position, which shelters it from strong winds, this lake offers a calm setting for kayaking.

As for the lake’s name, in the Mapuche language, machónico means ‘water with pancora’. Pancora are freshwater crabs commonly found in the area that can be seen digging themselves into the pebbles in the lake.

Cascada Vuliñanco

One of the nice surprises of this guided tour was that we didn’t just visit the seven lakes, but we also made stops at other attractions and scenic lookouts along the way.

One such place was the viewpoint towards Cascada Vuliñanco. The name of this waterfall means ‘hill of the hawk’ in the Mapuche language.

The waterfall is over 20 metres in height and it splits into two veils.

Lago Falkner

The next stop along the Seven Lakes Road was Lago Falkner.

Lake Falkner is named after Thomas Falkner, a Jesuit missionary, scientist and explorer who spent almost 40 years conducting studies across Patagonia and is also credited with recording the first fossil in present-day Argentina.

This is another very serene lake with a nice beach, so it’s a nice spot for picnics and a refreshing swim.

For travellers doing this as a self-guided trip, there's the option of hiking the Cerro Falkner trail, which is 8.4 km out and back.

There’s also a camping area at this lake, for those wanting to linger and enjoy the landscapes.

Lago Villarino

Next, we reached Lago Villarino, another pristine lake at the foothills of the Andes Mountains.

This region is home to the huemul, a native Patagonian deer that lives in the highest parts of the mountains.

The lake bears the name of Basilio Villarino, a Spanish Royal Navy captain and explorer who travelled around the southern tip of South America and performed a detailed reconnaissance of Patagonia.

You can also find a campsite at this lake.

Lago Escondido

Lago Escondido means ‘hidden lake’, and it is the smallest of the seven lakes along this famous route.

This lake is surrounded by trees, especially coihué, and the reflection of the surrounding foliage causes the lake to have an emerald colour.

The forest around this lake is also home to the pudu, the smallest deer in the world which only stands between 32 to 44 centimetres tall!

The pudu is a very solitary animal whose behaviour is still largely unknown due to its secretive nature.

Lago Correntoso

The next place we visited along the Route of the Seven Lakes was Lago Correntoso.

This lake is fed by Lago Espejo via a river, which translates to ‘lake with a current’, however, the lake waters are quite calm.

Lago Correntoso is the biggest of the seven lakes, and it’s also the lake with the warmest waters, for those looking for a summer swim. Though keep in mind this is Patagonia and not the Caribbean!

During our excursion, we stopped at Hosteria 7 Lagos, which sits on the shores of Lago Correntoso. There’s a guesthouse and camping site here, and we got to explore the farm and meet all sorts of animals like ducks, geese, cats and dogs.

We also had the opportunity to get some coffee and tortas fritas, a savoury donut made with lard.

Lago Espejo

Next on our road trip of the Seven Lakes was Lago Espejo, meaning ‘mirror lake’.

This lake gets its name from its mirror-like waters, which are super calm and reflect the surrounding mountains and forest in the water.

The lake is fed by numerous streams bringing snow and ice melt from the surrounding mountains. It also features volcanic sand beaches, so it draws day visitors, especially during the summer months.

Lago Nahuel Huapi

The final lake we visited along the Route of the Seven Lakes was Lago Nahuel Huapi.

The lake’s name derives from the Mapuche language - ‘nahuel’ means puma and ‘huapí’ means island, so it is the ‘island of the puma’.

The lake is located within Nahuel Huapi National Park, which is the oldest national park in Argentina having been established in 1934.

For those lingering in the area beyond this road trip of the Seven Lakes, there’s a popular day trip to Isla Victoria where you can cruise the waters of Lake Nahuel Huapi and really soak in the scenery.

Villa La Angostura

The town of Villa La Angostura marks the end of the Route of the Seven Lakes if you’re travelling from north to south.

During this guided tour we had some time to explore a few highlights around town and the surrounding area.

First, we stopped in Puerto Manzano, which is a resort area just 7 kilometres south of Villa La Angostura.

Here you’ll find lots of hotels, cottages and holiday rentals, and since this is a port, you can also expect lakeside beaches and plenty of sailboats and pleasure crafts.

We had some free time to walk around the port and snap a few photos.

Next, we had about 30 minutes to visit the 2 bays in Villa La Angostura: Bahia Brava, meaning ‘wild bay’ due to its choppy waters, and Bahia Mansa, meaning ‘calm bay’.

The two bays are located across from each other, and you can walk from one to the other in 5 minutes, so be sure to visit both!

Lunch at El Esquiador

Our tour did not include lunch, which was actually a great thing because there are so many great restaurants and breweries in the town of Villa La Angostura, and it's nice to be able to choose where you want to eat!

Since we had already spent a few days in Villa La Angostura earlier in our Patagonia trip, we knew we wanted to go back to our favourite restaurant: El Esquiador, meaning ‘the skier’.

This is a bodegón-style restaurant, and in Argentina, that means classic dishes, large portions, and no-frills dining.

If you’re interested in trying a local Patagonian dish, you cannot go wrong with their hunter’s stew with deer, potatoes and mushrooms.

Pair that with a bottle of Argentine wine, preferably a Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon and you’ve got yourself an exquisite meal!

For dessert, we had the flan with dulce de leche - a classic Argentine staple.

Afterwards, we had a bit of time to enjoy Villa La Angostura before meeting up with our group again, so we went for a walk down the main promenade, which is lined with souvenir shops, chocolate shops, and all sorts of cafes and restaurants.

This is a super charming town and really worth a longer visit if you're travelling through northern Patagonia.

And then, it was time to drive back to the town of San Martín de los Andes, where we started the excursion.

Here's the video of our experience visiting the Route of the Seven Lakes on a guided tour:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmJn7ueqzSY


Searching for Butch Cassidy's Ranch in Cholila, Patagonia

Did you know you can visit Butch Cassidy's Ranch in Cholila, Patagonia?

If you grew up watching the film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1969) then you already know who we're talking about. If you didn't, then you probably have a lot of questions:

Who was Butch Cassidy? Why is he so famous in Patagonia? And why should I bother visiting his ranch?

Yes, this is one of the more unusual places you can visit in Chubut, but it's an attraction that locals are proud to preserve.

So if you want to learn how a small out-of-the-way community in Northern Patagonia ended up with links to a robber from the American Wild West, read on because it's a fascinating story.

We'll also tell you how to reach Butch Cassidy's ranch and we'll share a few other noteworthy places you won't want to miss.

Who was Butch Cassidy?

Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch were a group of outlaws who operated during the Wild West era of the American frontier. They were prolific train robbers and bank robbers whose careers as criminals eventually caught up with them.

With law enforcement hot on their trail, Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and the Kid's girlfriend, Etta Place, decided they needed to get far, far away.

Using fake identities, they boarded a British steamer called the Herminius and fled the United States. Their destination: Buenos Aires, Argentina.

From there, they made their way south, all the way down to Patagonia, where they purchased land and bought cattle, sheep and horses. They lived in a four-room cabin, and it is said they were trying to live honest lives.

However, when two English-speaking bandits held up the Banco de Tarapacá y Argentino in Río Gallegos, some 1,500 kilometres south of Cholila, it might as well have been them. The robbery netted $100,000 USD in today's currency, and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were prime suspects.

It turns out the Pinkerton Detective Agency was hot on their trail and had been for quite some time; they were just waiting for winter in Patagonia to pass so they could make their move!

A local Argentine-Welsh sheriff who was friendly with the group tipped them off, giving them just enough time to sell their ranch before fleeing to Bariloche and then onwards to Chile.

It is said that Etta Place had gotten tired of life on the run and was also mourning the loss of their ranch in Patagonia, so the Sundance Kid accompanied her back to California.

Meanwhile, Butch Cassidy obtained work at a mine in the Bolivian Andes and was joined by the Kid on his return.

The two eventually met their end in Bolivia at a shootout a few days after their final robbery.

As for their ranch, by the 1990s it had fallen into a state of disrepair and was just about ready to collapse.

In 2007, the cabin was restored turning it into a rather obscure tourist attraction in Patagonia.

How to find Butch Cassidy's Ranch

So how do you get to Butch Cassidy's ranch in Cholila?

Let's keep in mind that Butch Cassidy did not want to be found, so reaching his ranch is an adventure in and of itself in off-the-beaten-path Patagonia.

The ranch is not particularly close to any major town or city, so if you want to get there, you're going to need a car. It's a 2-hour drive from Esquel or a 1-hour drive from El Bolsón.

The ranch is located in rural Patagonia and the nearest community is Cholila about 10 kilometres to the south. If we're being technical about it, the ranch is located in the rural commune of Cushamen, but there's nothing there save for a few ranches, so Cholila is the place to look for. However, if you reach Cholila you've gone too far.

Driving on Ruta Nacional 40 (the highway that crosses the length of Argentina from north to south), you'll want to turn off on Ruta Provincial 71.

About 20 kilometres into your drive on RP71, you'll notice a bar on the right-hand side called Museo Bar: La Legal. This is where you'll pull over.

If the building is open, this is where you go in and pay an admission fee to visit 'el rancho'. If it is not open, you backtrack to the previous dirt road you passed on the right-hand side (now on your left).

Right away, you'll see a trail. This is where you leave your car, and follow the path on foot until you reach a collection of wooden buildings in the middle of a field.

Inside Butch Cassidy's Cabin

So what's it like inside the cabin that was inhabited by Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kit and Etta Place?

Surprisingly, once you set foot in the cabin, there's nothing there.

The rooms are bare, save for some engravings on the wall left by either trespassers or tourists.

But as you walk around, you can imagine what a simple life the trio would've had - while it lasted.

They were living in a log cabin on the east bank of the Blanco River with mountains as far as the eye can see.

They had been granted 15,000 acres of adjacent land to develop, 2,500 acres of which belonged to Place, who had the distinction of being the first woman rancher in Argentina to own land under a new act (land ownership had previously been denied to women).

One has to imagine their life was good, but there was no outrunning their past...or their crimes.

Visiting the Butch Cassidy Museum

Now, let's go back to the building where we mentioned you need to pull over to reach Butch Cassidy's ranch.

Museo Bar: La Legal is a cafe, bar, museum and outpost all rolled into one.

It's set up like a general store from centuries past with floor-to-ceiling shelving showcasing all sorts of antiques. There are damajuana wine bottles (the ones that hold 5 litres), collectible televisions and radios, legal tender that is no longer used in Argentina, and so much more! You almost don't know where to look.

On the main wall, as soon as you enter, you have a small souvenir section with items for sale. Here you can find local wines, Patagonian craft beer, jams, and even books that tell the story of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Then, over to the right-hand side, you have a bar with freshly baked cakes and pastries on display. There's also an espresso machine, and you can order all sorts of beverages like beer, wine and smoothies. Plus, there's also a daily menu with whatever they happen to be cooking that day.

There's another room to the left that has been set up as a museum of sorts, showcasing all things Butch Cassidy and the Wild Gang.

They have wanted posters, photographs, maps of the ranch and the surrounding area, snippets of history, and even some cowboy hats and pistols for photo ops.

At the time of publication, the hours of operation for Museo Bar: La Legal are 11:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 20:00. However, their schedule is seasonal and they do not open year-round. It's best to check their Instagram page @museobar_lalegal for the most up-to-date information!

Butch Cassidy in Trelew

Another popular stop for those who are on the Butch Cassidy trail is Trelew.

Trelew is a small city situated in northeastern Chubut, so on the complete opposite side of the province (six and a half hours by car from Cholila, in case you're wondering!)

One of the main attractions in Trelew is Hotel Touring Club, which also has links to the famous gang.

The hotel has been declared part of the natural and cultural heritage of Trelew. It was built in 1898 and at one point was considered one of the most luxurious hotels in all of Argentina.

During the 1930s, it hosted presidents, politicians, sports figures and illustrious writers like Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, author of The Little Prince.

Well, the American outlaws Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and Etta Place were also among the guests at Hotel Touring Club.

Through the courtyard, in the back of the hotel, there's a room called 'Los Bandoleros' or 'The Bandits', which is where Butch Cassidy and his gang are believed to have stayed.

The room is frozen in time and features Butch Cassidy memorabilia on the walls, so if you're going to be in the area, that's another stop you can add to the list.

As a side note, if you do decide to make it over to Trelew, you should consider visiting Puerto Madryn and Península Valdés for wildlife viewing opportunities and the town of Gaiman for a dose of Welsh culture in Patagonia.

We told you there's lots to see in Chubut!

Final thoughts on the ranch

Is it a bit strange to visit an attraction that centres around an outlaw who was known for robbing trains and banks?

Yes, yes it is.

But it's also part of the local history that is being preserved, plus it brings tourism to a very rural and under-visited corner of Patagonia.

At the end of the day, the choice is yours, but now you have all the information you need to reach Butch Cassidy's ranch if you decide to visit.


The Old Patagonian Express: An Epic Train Journey in Patagonia!

Argentina is home to many epic train journeys, but perhaps none is more famous than the Old Patagonian Express!

The train is locally known as La Trochita, meaning ‘little gauge’ because it's a narrow gauge railway that’s only 750 mm wide or about 2 feet 5 and a half inches.

This heritage train showcases the ruggedness of Patagonia, and along the journey, passengers can expect to be treated to epic views of mountains, valleys, and Patagonian steppe. It truly is one of the highlights of a visit to Chubut!

Today, La Trochita may only operate a short portion of the original 402-kilometre route it once covered, however, it captures the nostalgia of 20th-century train travel.

That alone makes it worth adding to your northern Patagonia travel itinerary!

History of the Old Patagonian Express

The Old Patagonian Express once stretched out 402 kilometres, and it was originally planned as part of a larger network that would connect all of Patagonia. However, the project was never completed due to ministerial changes and then the start of the First World War, which also affected Argentina’s economy.

Its use eventually began to decline as road systems improved, and because part of the railway network was never completed, it left this line isolated and disconnected from the rest of the country.

But then things changed when Paul Theroux published his book The Old Patagonian Express in 1978.

In his book, Theroux set out to travel by train from his hometown in Massachusetts all the way down to Argentina, and clearly the Patagonia leg of his journey made quite the impression because it earned the book's title!

Travellers suddenly began to take an interest in the Old Patagonian Express, and that brings us to the train journey as we know it today.

Today the train operates on alternating locomotives; one is a Baldwin from the United States and the other a Henschel from Germany. The wooden wagons came from Belgium, and the heaters were installed in Argentina to make the journeys across Patagonia in winter a little more bearable.

How to ride the Old Patagonian Express

There are three segments of the Old Patagonian Express for travellers to choose from - though some are more frequent than others:

Esquel to Nahuel Pan - 18 kilometres

El Maitén to Desvío Bruno Thomaé - 26 kilometres

Ingeniero Jacobacci to Ojos de Agua - 42 kilometres

Before you plan your train journey, it’s best to check an updated schedule on the official La Trochita website since some routes aren’t in operation year-round.

Esquel to Nahuel Pan

The most popular route runs from Esquel to Nahuel Pan and it’s a beautiful journey. As you leave the town of Esquel, you begin the ascent out of the valley where you are treated to mountain views and sheep grazing in the Patagonian steppe.

You’ll notice this is the shortest of the three segments in terms of distance covered, however, this train journey involves an ascent out of town, so it travels a bit slower.

It is a 1-hour journey from Esquel to Nahuel Pan.

Once you arrive in Nahuel Pan, you have 45 minutes to explore at your own leisure.

Here you can visit the Museum of Patagonian Culture, which focuses on the indigenous peoples of Patagonia. It’s a small museum with only two rooms, but the displays showcase ceramics, musical instruments and textiles. If you speak Spanish, you can also ask questions to the museum guide on site.

The highlight of our brief stop in Nahuel Pan was the artisanal fair. Vendors had set up booths showcasing all sorts of handmade souvenirs, and we were immediately drawn to the alfajores with fillings like dulce de leche, raspberry, Welsh-inspired Bara brith, and rum and raisin.

There was also a man cooking chorizos on the grill, so we got some choripán (chorizo on a bread bun) with chimichurri. It’s worth lining up for this right away, as it’s a popular food stop.

On the journey back, there was live music on the train. A local musician made his way through the carriages singing and playing songs on his guitar as we travelled back to Esquel.

El Maitén to Desvío Bruno Thomaé

Another option for train enthusiasts is to travel the segment from El Maitén to Desvío Bruno Thomaé.

This is a 26-kilometre journey across the Patagonian steppe. The journey is relatively flat, however, you do get mountain views on the horizon.

It’s worth arriving early in order to visit the Railway Museum and tour the Locomotive Repair Shop. This is a guided visit that’s included in the ticket price, and it’s a great opportunity to ask questions about this historic train (albeit in Spanish).

We heard stories about the extreme weather in Patagonia and how, when the train is scheduled to do its weekly outing in winter, sometimes they have to get it running 2 days ahead of time!

We also learned that when a working component of the Old Patagonian Express breaks down, workers have to handcraft a new part since the train is so old that spare parts are no longer produced industrially.

The fact that this train is still running is a true testament to the ingenuity of the workers!

Now, if we compare this journey with the one from Esquel to Nahuel Pan, the major difference is that when you arrive in Desvío Bruno Thomaé, there’s nothing there apart from a train station that was burned down by a Mapuche protest. So there’s nothing to see or do (no artisanal market like in Nahuel Pan) while you wait for the train to reposition for the return journey.

Ingeniero Jacobacci to Ojos de Agua

Ingeniero Jacobacci to Ojos de Agua is the least frequent and lesser known of the three train segments you can travel aboard the Old Patagonian Express.

In fact, this route was closed for a long time and only recently reopened, while also providing connections to make this journey a bit more accessible.

Getting there involves either driving in from Bariloche (a 3-hour drive) or joining a guided tour departing from Bariloche to Ingeniero Jacobacci.

It is then a 2-hour train journey from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Ojos de Agua.

Upon arrival, passengers have about 1 hour and 15 minutes to enjoy a meal and walk around. The train then returns to Ingeniero Jacobacci via the same route.

How to book train tickets

How do you book tickets for the Old Patagonian Express?

Here are a few different options:

Booking in person

If you’re already planning to be in one of the towns the train departs from (Esquel, El Maitén or Ingeniero Jacobacci), the easiest option is to go to the train station and buy them in person. However, be mindful of each train station's hours of operation, which are limited.

If you’re visiting during low season, you may be able to get a ticket on the same day, but this isn’t advised during high season when every last seat on the train can be sold out.

Booking through a tour operator

If you want to avoid the hassle of going to the train station and booking in person, the best thing to do is to book through a local tour operator.

If doesn't matter if you're in Bariloche or El Bolsón, you can walk into almost any tour operator and book this excursion through them. This will often also include transportation to and from the departure station.

So hit the streets and walk into some offices. Just try to do so earlier in your trip since the train departures are not daily, especially outside of high season.

Booking online

If you prefer to book online, you can do so directly on the official La Trochita website by clicking 'Comprá tu ticket'. This will open another window where you can select your journey, date and departure time. You'll then be presented with a list of fares and will want to click 'Internacional' if you're an international tourist. Next, you'll select your seats and choose your payment method.

You can also buy tickets online at Tren Patagónico Official Website by scrolling down to La Trochita. But be very careful you don't book the Tren Patagónico, which is an overnight train journey that crosses the country from the Andes to the Atlantic Ocean!

This isn't the easiest website to navigate, so I'd only recommend it if you can read Spanish and understand the steps outlined on how to book the correct segment of the journey. In our experience, this website can sometimes be glitchy, which is why we recommend booking in person or via a tour operator.

And that’s how you book a trip aboard the Old Patagonian Express!

The journey may be a fraction of what it once was, but it’s an adventure nevertheless and worth adding to your list of places to visit in Patagonia, Argentina.

Even though this steam train covers a short distance, it’s a fun way to experience the magical landscapes of the Patagonian steppe.

Now over to you. Are you a train enthusiast? Would you like to travel aboard the Old Patagonian Express?

Let us know if there are any other train journeys in Argentina you'd like to do.